Granada-Cordoba-Merida Route

[gyro]

Dear All,
6 days into the camino, having started in Granada, and I should reach Cordoba tomorrow.

This is a pretty tough route - lots of hills between Granada and Cordoba - so progress is slow. There are also not too many towns along the way, so I have to be well prepared. So far, I have not met a single pilgrim.

But I have to warn anyone considering this route in the near future that there has been a lot of flooding in the last weeks. As a result:
- many river banks have been swept away
- fording the "streams" is not easy. (I was up to my thighs on the ford in the river between Pinos Puente and Las Olliviers)
- the Lagoon between Alcaudete and Baena is very full. (there is a disconsolate sign in the middle of the flooded area, with the yellow arrow pointing -optimistically- across the water).

So, I am enjoying this walk enormously, but it is slow and tough. Definitely one for anyone not in a hurry.

Kind regards
Gyro

 

[westside]

Great to hear something about this route, tell us more! I'm planning on walking/frying myself between Granada-Córdoba in hot August, this year.

 

[CDCIP]

Hi!
My husband and I will be walking this route this summer albeit the heat as we're unable to travel at any other time...I would very much appreciate if you could kindly provide an idea of the average cost per night for accomodation as well as the average cost per day for meals. I've been searching for this kind of info. but so far nothing...Should the refugios be filled with pilgrimps because of the holy year, we're planning on bringing our tent and camp out in the wild. What's your impression about this idea? Safety? Thanks a lot. Buen Camino. CD

 

[AJ]

Hi!
My husband and I will be walking this route this summer albeit the heat as we're unable to travel at any other time...I would very much appreciate if you could kindly provide an idea of the average cost per night for accomodation as well as the average cost per day for meals. I've been searching for this kind of info. but so far nothing...Should the refugios be filled with pilgrimps because of the holy year, we're planning on bringing our tent and camp out in the wild. What's your impression about this idea? Safety? Thanks a lot. Buen Camino. CD

In 2008 there was only one refugio: I stayed in hostals. Many hostals gave a discount because I was a peregrino. Cost varied considerably, from 12 euro to 30 euro for a single. Wild camping would be possible, but hunting is popular - lots of spent shottie cartridges in the olive groves.

Menu del dia available in most towns, generally less than 10 euro. But not many towns! Carry lots of water!!!

 

[gyro]

Dear all,
OK, then a final report.
I made it to Monterrubio after 11 days of actual walking. [I had to leave the camino a little earlier than expected in order to travel home by bus. Another Icelandic volcano story...]

In general, the 7 days between Granada and Cordoba were excellent, but tough walking. Do take lots of water - I went through 1 litre every 15 km. You also need to be pretty organised in terms of accommodation - there is only one albergue over this whole stretch - and not all of the towns have a range of accommodations. Moclin, for example, has a single casa rural. Good luck with finding Casa Antonio in Castro de Rio (it is on Camino on the way out of town)

Over the 4 days from Cordoba to Monterrubio, the first two days are just as tough as the Granada-Cordoba route, but the terrain starts to settle after Alcajeracos (sp?).

I took Alison Raju's guidebook (which is very good) plus the 2009 updates from the CSJ website. I also took "Walking the Camino" by Tony Kevins - which provided some food for thought in the evenings.

I would advise you to check at Granada and Cordoba bus stations for buses to/from the Camino towns. There is, for example, a single daily bus from Monterrubio to Cordoba..information I was very grateful about.

Other points:

Well, there is the eternal question of walking every step of the route or skipping the industrial outskirks of the major cities. It is 25 km to walk across Cordoba and not very interesting walking. The choice is yours.

more importantly, I met noone who spoke any English at all over the 11 days. A good chance to practice my Spanish.
Enjoy
Gyro

 

[gyro]

Hi!
.... we're planning on bringing our tent and camp out in the wild. What's your impression about this idea? Safety? Thanks a lot. Buen Camino. CD

Safety will not be an issue as I hardly saw anyone else on the route.
Initially, most of the walk is through farmed land - olive groves in particular. I guess if you find yourself a discrete spot, you will be fine.
Gyro

 

[CDCIP]

Thak you Gyro and AJ for your responses. Glad to hear you enjoyed your journey. I have ordered Alison Raju's book 2009 edition; do I also need extra updates from the site? We're hoping to plan our etapas based on our pace and needs and so I was wondering how easy it is to find food? Perhaps we will need to stock up in the morning in whatever local town and carry our lunch with us? In the evenings, I'm hoping we can figure out a way to pitch up our tent not too far from a place where we can find a meal service...from your experience, do you think this plan is feasable?

One last question; is the path well indicated?

Many thanks to all
CD

 

[gyro]

Thak you Gyro and AJ for your responses. Glad to hear you enjoyed your journey. I have ordered Alison Raju's book 2009 edition; do I also need extra updates from the site? We're hoping to plan our etapas based on our pace and needs and so I was wondering how easy it is to find food? Perhaps we will need to stock up in the morning in whatever local town and carry our lunch with us? In the evenings, I'm hoping we can figure out a way to pitch up our tent not too far from a place where we can find a meal service...from your experience, do you think this plan is feasable?

One last question; is the path well indicated?

Many thanks to all
CD

Answering your questions:
1. yes, you do need the updates on this route - you can get them from the CSJ website at http://www.csj.org.uk/update-viadelaplataB.htm
2. There are shops in most towns, villages which the route goes through. But these can be very dispersed -- the Raju guide gives a pretty good indication of what you can and cannot expect in each village. If you plan accordingly - and definitely take your lunch with you - then you will be fine.

3. Pitching a tent close to a meal service - this is a bit tricky. Certainly there are at least one village/town per stage where you can get a meal. But you would have to pitch a tent a km or so from such villages. Frankly, if you are looking for evening meals, you would be better not taking the tent and simply finding hostel/albergue accommodation each night.

In any event, I am happy to continue this conversation on PM. If you PM me an email address, we can discuss this in more detail....
Kind regards
Gyro











dfree

 

[AJ]

I agree with Gyro.

The waymarking was very good in 2008.

There is a lot of space between towns. No coffee stops every 5 km.

This route is totally different from the Camino Frances. Make sure you have enough food and water.

 

[CDCIP]

Hello Gyro,

Thank you for your detailed response and kind offer to email to discuss my camping issue a bit further. Pardon my technology ignorance, but what is a PM ? Perhaps you can provide me with your email address so I may get in touch with you. Looking forward to hear from you soon.

Thank you also to AJ for your contribution- all added tips certainly come in handy!

Good day to all and kind regards
CD

 

[gyro]

Hello Gyro,

Thank you for your detailed response and kind offer to email to discuss my camping issue a bit further. Pardon my technology ignorance, but what is a PM ? Perhaps you can provide me with your email address so I may get in touch with you. Looking forward to hear from you soon.

Thank you also to AJ for your contribution- all added tips certainly come in handy!

Good day to all and kind regards
CD

Look at the top of the page when you have logged in - you should see "User control panel and 1 new message". this will be from me.
Gyro