Granada to Merida in Mid February

[nalod]

Hello I intend starting in Granada around Feb 12th. Any advice I have St james Conferinity book by Alison Raju. I walked the Via de La Plata in late Feb last year.

 

[AJ]

It will probably be cold.

I walked it in April 2008.

 

[Alexandra]

I walked from Granada last September. The weather at that time was very hot. Consequently, I found the beginning very difficult. However, it is a beautiful walk to Merida, although very lonely and has long stages between villages/ towns. The Spanish people were so kind and helpful. I always found accommodation, in hostels ( 18 -25 euros), except for Campanario which has a lovely Albergue ( 15 euros ) by the railway line and next to the train station. I reached Merida on day 20.

Feel free to PM me if I can be of any help. I walked alone, am 65 years, and never ever felt in danger.

Buen Camino,

Sandra.

 

[nalod]

Thank both of you for your help. It is a pity there are not more Albergues cost is a factor with me, 25 nightly would be too high. I also traveresed the Pyrenees last year using the gr10 so I should manage the hilly terrain. I went days on the gr10 without seeing anyone and spent nights alone in Cabanees. I will give it a try and see what happens. I am spending a few days first with a walking friend of mine in Switzerland, therefore I will have many layers of clothes.

 

[Trevhock]

Re: Granada to Merida in Mid February Camino de Santiago d

Remember me Nalod? We almost did the VDLP together only to meet in the pilgrim's dining room at the Parador in Santiago. After that I retuned south to Granada and got as far as Cordoba, where as it happens I have just arrived to continue the Mozarbe to Merida. I found the stages much harder but more interesting. I found it tough, and remember the uncertainty of getting to Moclin on the first day unsure where to stay and ending up renting a room with no hot water for 10 euros. I got lost in the olive trees even though I was determined not to. I staggered into the outskirts of Cordoba from Castro Del Rio badly in need of water. The only guide I could find when I was in Santiago was the German one and I don't speak German maybe it was better than nothing, but I have myself to blame. Thanks to the Mozarbe I have discovered the Alhambra and the Mezquita and have fond memories of the places I stayed. It is more expensive though!
At least I have the Alison Raju guide now, and by checking this forum have come across you again. After Merida I hope, all being well, to go to Lisbon and try the camino Portugues and hopefully make it to Santiago. Anyway, enjoy this characterful route. Buen Camino

 

[nalod]

Thing you Trev just read your reply and really great to hear from you. I started in Granada last Friday. Got lost Sat morning a few times. I walled the Pyrenees last summer and still finding this tough. I am using a hand held device to type this so hitting wrong letters some times. Am now in Baena it is costing more. Went to Switzerland for a week before here so had too much clothes sent some home today. Finding it tough any advice on new places to stay would be great. Will post here as often ask can. Regards Nalod

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

I just read your post and I am not sure where you are now. I am about to go out so this will be very brief. I hope I can post more tonight. I really feel for you in how you are finding this walk tough !! It makes me feel better , as I found it very tough !!
You asked for places to stay. I only stayed in Hostals, except Campanario, but here is where I stayed after Baena---
CASTRO DEL RIO--Casa Antonio---20 euro---bar next door , but don't serve meals. Had cena and breakfast at Bar Cordoba. The owner of the bar gave me instructions for leaving in the morning. There are 2 sets of yellow arrows leaving the town---I took the track mentioned in the CSJ guide----reaching the road marked " Bujalance", turn right and pass the Guardia Civil barracks. I am presuming you have the CSJ guide. After a few hours walking I took the route to Santa Cruz, to shorten the distance to Cordoba.

SANTA CRUZ------Casa Jose---on the right at the N-432----E20-----cena was E8.50, a delicious meal.

CORDOBA----- Hostal Alcazar, at San Basilio 2. Cost was 28 euros, including breakfast for Peregrinos.. Other places nearby were up to 50 euros------maybe it was peak time-----end of Sept. This Hostal was very near the Mesquita, Tourist office, and other significant places. It was also very near the Biblioteca where I was able to use the internet. The owners of this Hostal were very friendly and helpful, although they were very busy. I had 2 nights in Cordoba. I had rain +++

CERRO MURIANO---I tried Bar Casa Bruno but it is closed on Saturdays. I then tried Bar X, just up the road where I got a room for 20 euros. Bar X is closed on Sundays, but Bar Casa Bruno is open then-----they must have an agreement !! This village has a good supermercado down the road---also a couple of little food shops.

I will try to post more tonight. Maybe there are cheaper places to stay, but , coming from Australia, I thought all these prices were VERY reasonable.

Take care. I hope you are meeting some of the wonderful Camino Angels I met during my Camino on the Mozarabe.

Sandra

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

I was just checking my CSJ guide and noticed I had written a bit of extra info for Cerro Muriano. Later in my walk I met someone who had walked through Cerro Muriano----they told me that opposite Bar X, on the left, further down the road , there is a house owned by a Dutch couple, Maria and Gert -Gan. You can ring the door bell and ask for accommodation---it is donativo. You can cook a meal there. I do recall that as I walked through , I saw a house with the Camino shell outside, but I had no idea what it was.

Buen Camino.

Sandra

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

Just a bit more info for your journey to Merida---

VILLAHARTA---after walking to Villaharta, I decided that 39 kms the next day was far too much, with the heat and no where to get water, so I decided to try for a taxi to Alcaracejos. If you decided to do this, turn left after you go through the tunnel under the N-432, and you can see the Hostal El Cruce.about 300 metres ahead. The manager there was very helpful and tried to get me a taxi. Unfortunately, it was a Sunday afternoon and this probably made it difficult to find a taxi. Eventually he decided that one of his staff would drive me there as he was about to complete his shift. The taxi cost is about 50 euros, but the young guy charged me 30 euros. He was instructed to make sure I found accommodation in Alcarejos, and if not, to bring me back.

ALCARACEJOS---I got a room at Hostal Las Tres Jotas for 18 euros. If it is closed , go to Bar Tic Tac, opposite. This Bar was just closing as it was 4pm. They are open early in the morning for Breakfast. I had cena at Restaurante Estefani on C/- de Pozoblanco----but it was at 9pm !!

HINOJOSA DEL DUQUE----stayed at Hostal El Cazada for 18 E. This was very near the town entrance. Later I went looking for a supermercado , and ended up in the Plaza Mayor where I was able to use the internet at the biblioteca. I think there might be some cheaper accommodation in that area----possibly a Convent.

MONTERUBIO de la Serena----I stayed at Hostal Vaticano---25E----cena 8 E. The Hostal was closed until 5.30pm. Bar is open early for breakfast.

CASTEURA----Tourist Office in Plaza Mayor---very helpful----rang Hostal Los Naranjes and booked me a room-----20E. It was a bit of a walk from the plaza but they gave me a map.Early breakfast available.

CAMPONARIA---I called to the Ayuntiamento for directions to the albergue. There is no hostel, or there wasn't last year. You can stay at the sports hall, but I chose to go to the albergue. It is about 2 -3 kms on the EX -115, south west of the town at the railway station. You need to ring Amelia to come out and let you in. The number is 619 653 760 and 695 669 474. The cost was 15E and it did include leaving some coffee and cakes for breakfast. She served cena, 8E, at the railway station at about 7 pm when a train went through. It is a lovely building, aircon, sheets and towels, a large common room and places to dry washing.

DON BENITO------Hostal Galicia, 22.50 E. I was lucky to find someone as soon as I entered the Plaza Mayor who showed me the way to the Hostal. However, later on I noticed a large information board at the end of the Plaza and there is a map that shows Hostal Galicia. There are a couple of very good supermercados in Don Benito, very near the main plaza. There is an internet cafe very near the Tourist office.

SANTA AMALIA----I tried Hostal Caribe , on the main road but it was full. I then went into the town and found a room at Hostal Fuente de la Magdalena in the plaza. If it is closed , go to Bar Cidoncha on the other side of the Plaza. It seemed a fairly new building-----it has Wifi and internet. Cost was 20E.

SAN PEDRO DE MERIDA-----Hostal Juan Porro, on the lay off of the main road------26E including breakfast.

MERIDA-----there is an albergue here, but as I stayed 3 nights to give my foot a rest, I stayed at Hostal Senero-----25E.

Nalod, I realise you might find all Hostal accommodation a bit expensive. However, I decided to post this for what it is worth. Maybe someone else can use the info. Everywhere on the Mozarabe I found cena was served so late, but that is the way it is. All my Hostal rooms were very clean and always con bano.

I hope your journey is going well , and that you are managing the distances and isolation.

Buen Camino,

Sandra

 

[nalod]

Thank you all so much you are great. No internet last night in pilgrim hostel in Castro Del Rio. In the hostel Alkazar onCordo. Got lost today walked at least 40km.Track was the muddiest I ever walked.Really tired may try the place in cero Muroano. I was lucky meet some people from local Cordoba Camino group out looking at signage they mentioned the place I am in tonight and the place inCerro. Thanks again now for food.

 

[nalod]

Thank you all so much you are great. No internet last night in pilgrim hostel in Castro Del Rio. In the hostel Alkazar onCordo. Got lost today walked at least 40km.Track was the muddiest I ever walked.Really tired may try the place in cero Muroano. I was lucky meet some people from local Cordoba Camino group out looking at signage they mentioned the place I am in tonight and the place inCerro. Thanks again now for food.

 

[Trevhock]

Really feel for you Nalod. I'm almost doing what Sandra has done. There is an Albergue in Cerro Muriano down the road from Barx opposite a supermarket, I didn't stay there though! At. Villaharta don't walk all the way up the hill I was told the only place to stay was at El Cruce which is at the bottom near all that industrial stuff. The previous rainy days have made the going tougher. This morning left the Albergue at Campanario and found what would normally have been a stream had become a river, attempted various boulders, no success , returned to the station, crossed the track and fence and found the camino again. There are no Albergues for pilgrims until Merida it seems, I am averaging 36 euros a day. You're just a few days behind so can imagine what you're going through. T

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod and Trevhock,

I am with you in spirit !!

Nalod, because you haven't reached Campanario yet, I thought I would give this little bit of info in case you are not aware of it. When you leave the albergue in the morning, you do not need to go right back into the town. There is another waymarked camino from Campanario other than that described in the CSJ guide. Go back towards the town for about 500 metres before turning left down a " camino de tierra". After going west for 1.5kms the track crosses the railway line via a bridge, then after about another 3km the track turns sharp right for about 70 metres before veering left off the road again for 1.5km before meeting the Way described by the CSJ guide, coming from your right behind.
I was very fortunate that this info was given to me by another Forum member, so thought I would pass it on.

I hope you are both doing okay. My thoughts are with you.

Buen Camino,

Sandra

 

[Trevhock]

Just another thought, El Cruce to Alcaracejos is not just long and strenuous it also has rios which might have swollen too much( there's been more rain since I did it)
When I got to Villaharta early that morning, I noticed a Peregrino Information tile on the wall of the first bar you come to, I failed to see it the day before. Perhaps you can get information about conditions the way ahead!

 

[nalod]

I think it is best to continue this in the Camino live section of the forum. Hope you will follow it over.

 

[Trevhock]

I agree with Sandra it's a good track except at the beginning where I found it impossible to ford the swollen stream hence returning to the Albergue and crossing. In fact good or bad weather if I was doing it again I'd cross the line opposite the station climb over the barbed wire fence where it is sagging and head down toward Magacela finding the arrows at the bridge. About halfway along there was another place where I had to climb on to the stone wall to pass.
Well its rained today and tomorrow is supposedly worse very curious to know how you're feeling. I am now finishing at Santa Amalia, staying at Fuente( thanks Sandra). Intend going to Lisbon and walk the camino
Portuguese to Santiago all being well. I am booked to do a couple of weeks as a hospitalero at Miraz end of March and to think I wanted to walk the francigena this year. Will keep an eye on your posting, though not sure where you are precisely.T

 

[nalod]

Trev am in Cerro Merrano short day today. Missed the worst of rain it was very heavy in aft. If it is worse tomorrow it could be problem. I am now feeling OK will see what happens. Things are tough with you I feel it is ahead of me. Am now posting on Live forum. Will stay in touch.
Nalod