Great reasons to start in Lisbon

[peregrina2000]

...Or at least to spend some time there.

http://www.cnn.com/2014/01/25/travel/lisbon-coolest-city/

I love Lisbon!

 

[mikevasey]

It is a beautiful city which has its own unique( and special) rhythm, however i will find it hard to go there again because of who i went with and the feeling of Saudade( a word that beats in Lisbons heart) that is almost overpowering when i think of the city. A smile and a sense of pain all rolled into one.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Laurie but thats what thinking about Lisbon does to me.

 

[peregrina2000]

You are absolutely right, Mike. A friend of mine who teaches Creative Writing wrote a memoir about his sabbatical year in Lisbon, called The Moon Come to Earth, and it captures many of my feelings about the city. One particularly memorable scene, not sure why, was when he and his son went into a bar to watch a soccer game. This is a very common event across Europe, bars filled with fans watching soccer. The thing that seemed so different to my friend was the fact that unlike many other European countries, there was no thinly covered level of aggression or vitriol, just a bunch of people watching a game having a good time.

Actually, you can read most of the book for free online at McSweeney's -- http://www.mcsweeneys.net/articles/dispatch-1-i-dont-know-why-i-love-lisbon

I think it's a really good read, especially for anyone heading out on the Caminho in Portugal!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

I spent three days in Lisbon last year after walking the southern section of the Camino Portuguese. It's a beautiful city, and difficult for me to select just a couple of pictures to show why I loved it. However ... things I will always remember include ...

...the wonderful Jacaranda trees in striking violet blossom in May, and

the walk to the beautiful Belem Tower on the far side of the port.
Lisbon is a city to which I would gladly return and spent many more days, if only time - and funds - permitted.
Enjoy it for its beauty, its architecture or its past .... but don't miss it!

 

[Camembert]

It is a beautiful city which has its own unique( and special) rhythm, however i will find it hard to go there again because of who i went with and the feeling of Saudade( a word that beats in Lisbons heart) that is almost overpowering when i think of the city. A smile and a sense of pain all rolled into one.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Laurie but thats what thinking about Lisbon does to me.

I think your feeling is more "fado"like. Saudade is more longing to come back to a place you always like to be.
Saudade has a very very strong sense in the Portugese language .more than "longing, nostalgia, heimweh or what else language has it as an equivalent.
Listen to one of the most famous songs about saudade, Tom Jobim's " samba do avião" It describes the saudade feeling of someone landing with an airplane and coming back at his of her place to be the best in the world ( probably the place of birth) in this case Rio de Janeiro . Goosebumps !
Cheers !

 

[peregrina2000]

It is a beautiful city which has its own unique( and special) rhythm, however i will find it hard to go there again because of who i went with and the feeling of Saudade( a word that beats in Lisbons heart) that is almost overpowering when i think of the city. A smile and a sense of pain all rolled into one.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Laurie but thats what thinking about Lisbon does to me.

I agree with you, Mike. That word is a pretty hard one to explain. I'm no music expert, and I know that Mariza is a very commercialized successful fado singer, but if anyone is interested, listen to this one, and your gut will understand something of the meaning of saudade.

The lyrics are translated here, with "saudade" as "nostalgia", which may be as close as English gets.
http://lyricstranslate.com/en/meu-fado-meu-my-fado-my-fado.html

I've seen Mariza perform, on the grounds of an 18th century palace near Lisbon on a warm summer evening. We were about 8 feet from her, she was standing on ground level, it was amazing. Even my then 19 year old son, who had been raving about the outdoor Metallica concert in Lisbon he had just seen, had to agree this was a show-stopper.

 

[mikevasey]

I only heard of the word in the last few weeks, the Portuguese girl who explained it to me described the word as a sense of seperation when someone or something is no longer there, maybe i have associated it with Fado because the emotions they evoke seem similar. Either way they both give an insight into the Portuguese. The first few times I went to Portugal I was looking for similarities with the Spain I had encountered, but they are so different even the voice seeming to come out of somewhere deep inside them, .

 

[scruffy1]

Any trip to Libon would be incomplete with seeing this amazing man-of course its a trick but he is the master no robes no chairs no visible support

 

[lynnejohn]

You all are making me consider this route for my next camino. It has never been high on my list for some reason, but it may well be the reality next year! Thanks for this information!

 

[Camembert]

I only heard of the word in the last few weeks, the Portuguese girl who explained it to me described the word as a sense of seperation when someone or something is no longer there, maybe i have associated it with Fado because the emotions they evoke seem similar. Either way they both give an insight into the Portuguese. The first few times I went to Portugal I was looking for similarities with the Spain I had encountered, but they are so different even the voice seeming to come out of somewhere deep inside them, .

Well I like the reactions of you Laurie and Mike and although a bit off topic it is an interesting item because walking the caminho Portuges you directly feel the "saudade and fado-atmosphere, Portugal breaths out. The difference between the Portugese and Spanish culture is very big ! I love both of them..from my earliest time I was raised with the Portugese culture and during my working carreer I used to work some years in Catalunya Spain. My father used to be a teacher in the Portugese language and now as a pensionado I am doing the same as a volonteer, teaching Spanish andPortugese speaking people to learn Dutch.
I allways feel home being in Portugal, love the kindness of the people, the landscape, the cities and was glad to be able to know more of this all by walking the caminho Portuges at a slow pace and I look forward being there again in a couple of month.
As an amateur jazzguitarist and double bass player however I prefer the Brasilean bossa nova and samba music above the fado music .maybe because is so close to jazz.. But this is a matter of personal taste ,I must admit...
On to the original topic. My wife and I prepare for the camino Ingles and after finishing we come back to Portugal to feel the "saudade " again. Can't wait for that. Counting down now . beginning of May 2014 back again on the camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, I hope people won't mind if I throw in a few more Lisbon-related observations. First, I have put together a walking tour of Lisbon. Many friends and some peregrinos have used it and enjoyed it. The distance can be walked in a few hours, but with stops it can easily fill in a day or two. And it gives you a good view of most of central Lisbon. I posted it a few years ago, but it now resides in the deep dark files of cyber space, so I thought I'd mention it again here for anyone going to Lisbon soon: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-walking-tour-of-lisbon.7257/

And, this has also been mentioned before, but if you arrive in Lisbon and don't want to stay up till midnight watching a fado performance or if you are not sure which fado place is the more "authentic," I would suggest this place -- fadoinchiado.com There is a daily 7 pm show, costs 16 euros, and gives you a more formal performance. The quality of the singers (there are both male and female) is very good (at least to my unsophisticated ears), and though it doesn't have the same ambiance of the clubs perhaps, it's a good introduction for those of us who will be getting up at daybreak to walk!

 

[Diogo92]

Those custard tarts are not so good has that!

The floating guy indicated by @scruffy1 it's not there every part of the year, but you also have a very impressive one, that use to be desguised has a but from Mozart, with music playing.

Best Regards
Diogo Martins

 

[LTfit]

I have to agree with lynnejohn, the portuguese has not been high on my list due to all the talk of asphalt but I may just be missing something!

 

[peregrina2000]

I have to agree with lynnejohn, the portuguese has not been high on my list due to all the talk of asphalt but I may just be missing something!

Well, that is the dilemma. The Portugues has a lot of asphalt, even though it is slowly being reduced as the ViaLusitana and others are able to find off-road alternatives. There are not many sections of this Camino that are more than a stone's throw from "civilization", though there are a few eucalyptus forests where I have been known to get lost (arrow improvement has solved the problem I believe). But Portugal is so lovely and the people so kind, so it's a tough choice.

 

[KatWanderlust]

Well, that is the dilemma. The Portugues has a lot of asphalt, even though it is slowly being reduced as the ViaLusitana and others are able to find off-road alternatives. There are not many sections of this Camino that are more than a stone's throw from "civilization", though there are a few eucalyptus forests where I have been known to get lost (arrow improvement has solved the problem I believe). But Portugal is so lovely and the people so kind, so it's a tough choice.

Great thread Laurie! Sadly Dad and I only had a few hours in Lisbon before we had to get to Santarem to start our Camino, but that small amount of time was magical. We wandered around soaking it all in, got our Credencial and lunched in the sunshine on the main plaza by the water, we will definitely be back to explore more thoroughly.

LTfit - I just got back mid-November last year and while there is asphalt walking there are so many positives that outweigh this. Like Laurie said the people are just SO lovely and kind, Dad and I have walked multiple Caminos and we were stunned at how nice and caring people were. Especially on the trail from Santarem to Porto as there aren't so many pilgrims on this Way, everyone we met was beyond friendly and helpful. The food is also exceptional, we have since nicknamed this our "Gourmet Camino" - I can't reccomend it enough!

 

[peregrina2000]

Those custard tarts are not so good has that!

The floating guy indicated by @scruffy1 it's not there every part of the year, but you also have a very impressive one, that use to be desguised has a but from Mozart, with music playing.

Best Regards
Diogo Martins

I don't know about the floating guy, but I do have an opinion on the custard tarts. YES the custard tarts are about the best sweet in the whole wide world. I have had many pasteis de nata, but IMO there is absolutely nothing that holds a candle to the Pasteis de Belem. It is a custard tart in many ways similar to all the rest, but it is unbelievable (and I am not a person who likes sweets). If you go to Lisbon, and if you love your sweets, or even if you don't, you have to go to Belem to taste the pastel de Belem. It is an incredible pastry. Do not settle for any Lisbon substitutes. Go to Belem.

 

[Diogo92]

I don't know about the floating guy, but I do have an opinion on the custard tarts. YES the custard tarts are about the best sweet in the whole wide world. I have had many pasteis de nata, but IMO there is absolutely nothing that holds a candle to the Pasteis de Belem. It is a custard tart in many ways similar to all the rest, but it is unbelievable (and I am not a person who likes sweets). If you go to Lisbon, and if you love your sweets, or even if you don't, you have to go to Belem to taste the pastel de Belem. It is an incredible pastry. Do not settle for any Lisbon substitutes. Go to Belem.

I'm seeing that when you come back to Lisbon, I'll show you a "real" pastel de nata. The main reason why Pasteis de Belém are so famous it's because you eat them still hot, with sugar and cinnamon. Try to eat them has a real Pastel de Nata should be eaten (cold) and you will totally see the difference. In the last few years for a National Cuisine Championship, where you have a category just for Pasteis de Nata, Pasteis de Belém never went better than 5th

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[robertt]

This is the fado I can't get out of my head.

She also sang a fado to Old Lisbon.

Gotta get back there somehow. You guys know the feeling.

[Camembert]

This is the fado I can't get out of my head.

She also sang a fado to Old Lisbon.

Gotta get back there somehow. You guys know the feeling.

"Saudade " from the deepest of the soul !

[KinkyOne]

On behalf of good Portugues music I have to add my twocents:

Their lead singer Teresa Salgueiro also performs solo.

But of course there's no one like Amalia!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm seeing that when you come back to Lisbon, I'll show you a "real" pastel de nata. The main reason why Pasteis de Belém are so famous it's because you eat them still hot, with sugar and cinnamon. Try to eat them has a real Pastel de Nata should be eaten (cold) and you will totally see the difference. In the last few years for a National Cuisine Championship, where you have a category just for Pasteis de Nata, Pasteis de Belém never went better than 5th

Best Regards
Diogo

It's amazing how Lisbon and Portugal evoke such strong sentiments from us outsiders.

And Diogo, I'm always willing to defer to the real experts, so you will have to give peregrinos some idea of where to get the more highly rated pasteis de nata in Lisbon. Just wondering, though, what's wrong with eating them hot and with cinnamon sugar, doesn't that just make them more delicious?

 

[Diogo92]

It's amazing how Lisbon and Portugal evoke such strong sentiments from us outsiders.

And Diogo, I'm always willing to defer to the real experts, so you will have to give peregrinos some idea of where to get the more highly rated pasteis de nata in Lisbon. Just wondering, though, what's wrong with eating them hot and with cinnamon sugar, doesn't that just make them more delicious?

You have near Praça do Chile, one bakery that it's only open at night. You go down some stairs and buy the Pasteis de Nata and other cakes for 0,65€. Yes, you've read it well. Eating custards hot changes totally your palate. You can eat the Pasteis de Belém cold, that they will not be the same. You can eat other Pasteis de Nata either cold or hot, that the flavour it's still there. Adding sugar and cinnamon makes them more delicious, but I also know that they use that kind of cinnamon in their shop. It's not any kind of cinnamon, it's that one. Don't get me wrong, they are good, but they are not the best. For my point of view, it's what we can call a tourist trap, either for the money, or for the quality. A proof of that it’s when my costumers usually say that they are going to Belém to eat them, I challenge them to try both of them, try the Pasteis de Belém, and go to other place and eat a “normal” Pastel de Nata. I can affirm that almost 100% say that I’m right.

Best Regards
Diogo


P.S: hot custards can cause diarrhea and also make you have gases

 

[Camembert]

quote="Diogo92, post: 183653, member: 23729"]You have near Praça do Chile, one bakery that it's only open at night. You go down some stairs and buy the Pasteis de Nata and other cakes for 0,65€. Yes, you've read it well. Eating custards hot changes totally your palate. You can eat the Pasteis de Belém cold, that they will not be the same. You can eat other Pasteis de Nata either cold or hot, that the flavour it's still there. Adding sugar and cinnamon makes them more delicious, but I also know that they use that kind of cinnamon in their shop. It's not any kind of cinnamon, it's that one. Don't get me wrong, they are good, but they are not the best. For my point of view, it's what we can call a tourist trap, either for the money, or for the quality. A proof of that it’s when my costumers usually say that they are going to Belém to eat them, I challenge them to try both of them, try the Pasteis de Belém, and go to other place and eat a “normal” Pastel de Nata. I can affirm that almost 100% say that I’m right.

Best Regards
Diogo


P.S: hot custards can cause diarrhea and also make you have gases [/quote]
Smelly town though !

 

[peregrina2000]

For those of you who don't know what a "pastel de nata" is, here is a picture: http://ireport.cnn.com/docs/DOC-884950

That report also says that the Pastelaria Aloma was the winner in 2012. I have never been there but with a little google searching, I found its address:
Rua Francisco Metrass 67. Just happens to be in one of my favorite residential neighborhoods of Lisbon, the Campo de Ourique.

And here is another contender, apparently (though I note that they say these are warm, sorry Diogo): http://www.spottedbylocals.com/lisbon/cafe-martinho-da-arcada/ This second one is much more central to the main tourist sites in Lisbon, in the Praca do Comercio.

I had no idea there was such a big debate about the pastel de nata, but I have found lots of references to "the battle" for the title of best pastry: http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20120110-the-battle-for-lisbons-best-pastry

And for those of you who may be thinking we are straying from the topic of the Caminho, it just illustrates one of the real benefits of the Caminho Portugues -- walk a lot and eat a lot of wonderful food.

 

[Diogo92]

For those of you who don't know what a "pastel de nata" is, here is a picture: http://ireport.cnn.com/docs/DOC-884950

That report also says that the Pastelaria Aloma was the winner in 2012. I have never been there but with a little google searching, I found its address:
Rua Francisco Metrass 67. Just happens to be in one of my favorite residential neighborhoods of Lisbon, the Campo de Ourique.

And here is another contender, apparently (though I note that they say these are warm, sorry Diogo): http://www.spottedbylocals.com/lisbon/cafe-martinho-da-arcada/ This second one is much more central to the main tourist sites in Lisbon, in the Praca do Comercio.

I had no idea there was such a big debate about the pastel de nata, but I have found lots of references to "the battle" for the title of best pastry: http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20120110-the-battle-for-lisbons-best-pastry

And for those of you who may be thinking we are straying from the topic of the Caminho, it just illustrates one of the real benefits of the Caminho Portugues -- walk a lot and eat a lot of wonderful food.

Martinho de Arcada, the place where portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa used to hang out with his friends hand write The table where he used to sit it's still there.

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[mikevasey]

Hi Diogo I wish all tourist traps sold delicious pasties de nata for 90 centimos and expressos for€1 and were lavishly decked out in Azulejos.

 

[Diogo92]

Hi Diogo I wish all tourist traps sold delicious pasties de nata for 90 centimos and expressos € an

Now it's 1€ or 1,10€ I think for each pastel de nata. And coffe it's other thing debatable, but you can drink a good coffe for 0,60€. Almost every coffe now have the same "menu", coffe + pastel de nata from 1,20€ to 1,50€.

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[Diogo92]

Don't get me wrong, that's how I've told up there, they are good, but they can't be considered the best. A person who know's the Pasteis de Belém fo years will notice that they are not the same thing that they were some years ago.

I'm just saying that they keep saying the same thing, and people could eat better for a less expensive experience. Taking another example, it's the same thing with the Cervejarias (brewery houses). They keep advertising Portugalia to tourists has the best brewery house in Lisboa, with the best steak. But it isn't. It's a matter of marketing and branding to be very honest.

If you want to keep the traditional and visit a place that almost never changed, check this:

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[Camembert]

Don't get me wrong, that's how I've told up there, they are good, but they can't be considered the best. A person who know's the Pasteis de Belém fo years will notice that they are not the same thing that they were some years ago.

I'm just saying that they keep saying the same thing, and people could eat better for a less expensive experience. Taking another example, it's the same thing with the Cervejarias (brewery houses). They keep advertising Portugalia to tourists has the best brewery house in Lisboa, with the best steak. But it isn't. It's a matter of marketing and branding to be very honest.

If you want to keep the traditional and visit a place that almost never changed, check this:

Best Regards
Diogo

That's the place to be ! Tell us all about it and where it is Diogo !

 

[Diogo92]

That's the place to be ! Tell us all about it and where it is Diogo !

Cervejaria Trindade it's the oldest Cervejaria in Lisbon and in Portugal. It was built by a Gallego. It's located behind the Rossio station, in a street called Rua da Trindade. Some say that there are some connections with the knights templar and with the Masonry.

For me it's a wonderfull place to eat, specially if you like the combination of a very good steak and a cold beer.

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[peregrino_tom]

Seeing as everyone's going wonderfully off-topic and Grayland hasn't turned up yet to put this thread on lock-down...

Listen to one of the most famous songs about saudade, Tom Jobim's " samba do avião" It describes the saudade feeling of someone landing with an airplane and coming back at his of her place to be the best in the world ( probably the place of birth) in this case Rio de Janeiro

This reminded me of another Jobim tune, 'Chega de saudade'.
Google translates it as 'Enough nostalgia' while back in the day, Dizzy Gillespie and co. translated it as 'No more blues'. Which kind of reflects the different views a bit higher up the page.

And couldn't resist linking to this version of 'Samba de aviao'....

 

[peregrina2000]

It's located behind the Rossio station, in a street called Rua da Trindade.
Best Regards
Diogo

Yeah, behind the Rossio station -- and up about 500 steps. (good camino training, of course).

 

[Diogo92]

Yeah, behind the Rossio station -- and up about 500 steps. (good camino training, of course).

Hey, no pain, no gain! And walking around Lisbon it's almost the perfect Camiño Training Program

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[Camembert]

Seeing as everyone's going wonderfully off-topic and Grayland hasn't turned up yet to put this thread on lock-down...

This reminded me of another Jobim tune, 'Chega de saudade'.
Google translates it as 'Enough nostalgia' while back in the day, Dizzy Gillespie and co. translated it as 'No more blues'. Which kind of reflects the different views a bit higher up the page.

And couldn't resist linking to this version of 'Samba de aviao'....

Great song Tom, staying off topic, thanks for sharing. I love all the songs of Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes. I prefer the song from a group Tuda Joia, the LP CD is called Made in Brasil. I cannot find out who is he ladysinger..i have several Brasilean friends but nobody can tell what is her name nor confirm she is still alive.
Chega de Saudade no more blues. An other great song. I am studying at the moment at some others. A felicidade and Insensatez both of Jobim.
But if I hear the Portugese fado song Coimbra , the tears come up too !

 

[peregrino_tom]

I cannot find out who is the ladysinger..i have several Brasilean friends but nobody can tell what is her name nor confirm she is still alive

I think it's Neusa Sauer. I'll PM you with youtube link

 

[Anniesantiago]

Oh, I love Lisboa! There are many wonderful things to see there!

The Museum of the Coaches is something a lot of people miss. Huge ornate gilded coaches from earlier centuries reside there and you can see them very close up.

The Military Museum is actually very interesting.

The grounds of the castillo are beautiful.

Then, just a very short and inexpensive train trip away is SINTRA! Nobody should go to Lisbon and miss Sintra! There is a sweet little albergue there. I walked in on a cold rainy afternoon to classical guitar and a roaring fire in the fireplace and a bowl of querves soup, which is pretty much the same as the caldo verde you get in Spain.

In Sintra you can see Pena Castle and my favorite, Quinta de Regalaria.

Then, if you are adventurous, you can fly to the Azores, where my family came from and see those beautiful islands before tourism takes hold.

And the food - to die for!

 

[lynnejohn]

Annie, I've had Quinta da Regaleira on my list since my daughter brought back photos of it many years ago... since I've all but decided that the Portugues is my 2015 camino, I may get to see it! What a mystical, beautiful sight!

 

[peregrina2000]

Annie, I've had Quinta da Regaleira on my list since my daughter brought back photos of it many years ago... since I've all but decided that the Portugues is my 2015 camino, I may get to see it! What a mystical, beautiful sight!

Oh, I love Lisboa! There are many wonderful things to see there!

The Museum of the Coaches is something a lot of people miss. Huge ornate gilded coaches from earlier centuries reside there and you can see them very close up.

The Military Museum is actually very interesting.

The grounds of the castillo are beautiful.

Then, just a very short and inexpensive train trip away is SINTRA! Nobody should go to Lisbon and miss Sintra! There is a sweet little albergue there. I walked in on a cold rainy afternoon to classical guitar and a roaring fire in the fireplace and a bowl of querves soup, which is pretty much the same as the caldo verde you get in Spain.

In Sintra you can see Pena Castle and my favorite, Quinta de Regalaria.

Then, if you are adventurous, you can fly to the Azores, where my family came from and see those beautiful islands before tourism takes hold.

And the food - to die for!

Here is a great link to some of the MANY wonderful things to see in Sintra. http://www.parquesdesintra.pt/ Two of my favorites are the Convento de Capuchos, a tiny little monastery with room for 7 or 8 monks, all walls lined in cork, in a beautiful setting, and the estate of Montserrate, an estate built by some fabulously wealthy Brit, if I remember correctly. Hard to figure out how to squeeze all the tourism in to a Caminho perhaps, but well worth the effort, IMO.

Annie, I think you and I share an exuberant enthusiasm for Lisbon and Portugal generally. Have you walked the Caminho Portugues?

 

[Diogo92]

Oh, I love Lisboa! There are many wonderful things to see there!

The Museum of the Coaches is something a lot of people miss. Huge ornate gilded coaches from earlier centuries reside there and you can see them very close up.

The Military Museum is actually very interesting.

The grounds of the castillo are beautiful.

Then, just a very short and inexpensive train trip away is SINTRA! Nobody should go to Lisbon and miss Sintra! There is a sweet little albergue there. I walked in on a cold rainy afternoon to classical guitar and a roaring fire in the fireplace and a bowl of querves soup, which is pretty much the same as the caldo verde you get in Spain.

In Sintra you can see Pena Castle and my favorite, Quinta de Regalaria.

Then, if you are adventurous, you can fly to the Azores, where my family came from and see those beautiful islands before tourism takes hold.

And the food - to die for!

Caldo Verde it's also a soup dish that we have in Portugal. When have you been in Sintra? I'm asking this because of the desciption that you made from that house, I think I know it, but I don't remember the name.

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[flewitheagles]

Cervejaria Trindade it's the oldest Cervejaria in Lisbon and in Portugal. It was built by a Gallego. It's located behind the Rossio station, in a street called Rua da Trindade. Some say that there are some connections with the knights templar and with the Masonry.

For me it's a wonderfull place to eat, specially if you like the combination of a very good steak and a cold beer.

Best Regards
Diogo

I must say that few things really attract me like "a very good steak and a cold beer"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! )

 

[Anniesantiago]

Clado Verde it's also a soup dish that we have in Portugal. When have you been in Sintra? I'm asking this because of the desciption that you made from that house, I think I know it, but I don't remember the name.

Best Regards
Diogo

My avo calls Caldo Verde, "Querves" = we pronounce it kway-vish in English. It's pretty much the same dish.
Maybe that's an Azorian name for it? I don't know…

I have been in Sintra many times. I have family in the Azores and so did my ex-husband. The first time I went was in about 2003. Quinta Regalaria is a very mystical place. Very interesting if you are into Hermetics or Mysticism.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Here is a great link to some of the MANY wonderful things to see in Sintra. http://www.parquesdesintra.pt/ Two of my favorites are the Convento de Capuchos, a tiny little monastery with room for 7 or 8 monks, all walls lined in cork, in a beautiful setting, and the estate of Montserrate, an estate built by some fabulously wealthy Brit, if I remember correctly. Hard to figure out how to squeeze all the tourism in to a Caminho perhaps, but well worth the effort, IMO.

Annie, I think you and I share an exuberant enthusiasm for Lisbon and Portugal generally. Have you walked the Caminho Portugues?

I've walked a portion of it only. I'd like to go back and walk the entire route someday.
So many caminos, so little time!
:::laughing::

I love Portugal because I'm Azorian Portuguese and come from a large Portuguese community in California.
My ex husband was also Azorian, and we visited several times.
My Tio Alfredo died a few years back and I haven't been since, but I need to go soon.
I still have cousins there.

 

[Diogo92]

My avo calls Caldo Verde, "Querves" = we pronounce it kway-vish in English. It's pretty much the same dish.
Maybe that's an Azorian name for it? I don't know…

I have been in Sintra many times. I have family in the Azores and so did my ex-husband. The first time I went was in about 2003. Quinta Regalaria is a very mystical place. Very interesting if you are into Hermetics or Mysticism.

It is Caldo Verde, I've written it wrong

It's a very good soup, and it's even better when you add chouriço to that. After a long day walking, it feels so good at night

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[amsimoes]

Here is a great link to some of the MANY wonderful things to see in Sintra. http://www.parquesdesintra.pt/ Two of my favorites are the Convento de Capuchos, a tiny little monastery with room for 7 or 8 monks, all walls lined in cork, in a beautiful setting, and the estate of Montserrate, an estate built by some fabulously wealthy Brit, if I remember correctly. Hard to figure out how to squeeze all the tourism in to a Caminho perhaps, but well worth the effort, IMO.

Annie, I think you and I share an exuberant enthusiasm for Lisbon and Portugal generally. Have you walked the Caminho Portugues?

Hello peregrina 2000

For me the Convento dos Capuchos has a very own mystical.
I liked to tell one episode from the time when he was Boy Scout, know all the Serra de Sintra on foot. Our camp was located on a farm of nuns in Linhó
We visited the monastery together with two French tourists, who were accompanied by a little dog, who spent the entire period of sight whimpering with fear.
Spectacular. I recommend to all people who visit Sintra.

AMSIMOES

 

[mikevasey]

Hi Amsimoes couldnt help looking at your caminhos walked, it seems like that you are one of the 63 people who got a compestela who gave Viseu as a starting point. Do you have a blog or is there anything you could say about it.I have heard there is a lot of asphalt but also there is quite hard off road sections, but the one thing that keeps being repeated is it is stunningly beautiful in sections.Any observations would be gratefully accepted.

Sorry for taking this thread elsewhere folks its turning into quite a special one.

 

[JLuis]

There's more than Saudade in Fado:

 

[JLuis]

Hi Amsimoes couldnt help looking at your caminhos walked, it seems like that you are one of the 63 people who got a compestela who gave Viseu as a starting point. Do you have a blog or is there anything you could say about it.I have heard there is a lot of asphalt but also there is quite hard off road sections, but the one thing that keeps being repeated is it is stunningly beautiful in sections.Any observations would be gratefully accepted.

Sorry for taking this thread elsewhere folks its turning into quite a special one.

Take a look at http://www.cpisantiago.pt
it's in portuguese, but there is a google translation on site

 

[amsimoes]

Hi Amsimoes couldnt help looking at your caminhos walked, it seems like that you are one of the 63 people who got a compestela who gave Viseu as a starting point. Do you have a blog or is there anything you could say about it.I have heard there is a lot of asphalt but also there is quite hard off road sections, but the one thing that keeps being repeated is it is stunningly beautiful in sections.Any observations would be gratefully accepted.

Sorry for taking this thread elsewhere folks its turning into quite a special one.

Hi Mike

The Portuguese Interior (Inland) St. James Way crosses eight municipalities (Viseu, Castro Daire, Lamego, Régua, Santa Marta de Penaguião, Vila Real, Vila Pouca de Aguiar e Chaves), through a medieval itinerary of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, recently recovered.

In Portugal the Way is spread for about 205 quilometers over breath taking landscapes, and in constant contact with several elements of local traditional culture. It crosses the border in Vilarelho da Raia and travels along the Via de la Plata until it reaches Santiago de Compostela.

In english:
http://www.cm-vilareal.pt/images/noticias/2012/desdobravel_CPIS_ingles.pdf


The way with my wife, in Portugal:

Lisbon - Viseu (bus)

Viseu (cathedral) - Almargem (temporary albergue - basic)
The first path part is about 50% of urban and asphalt. Easy way.
Almargem - Castro Daire (sleep, Residential Park 20 € for 2 pax.)
Very long and very difficult stage, about 10% asphalt path. There are a albergue before Castro Daire (Ribolhos).
Castro Daire - Penude (sleep Albergue)
Beautiful stage. Has much asphalt in the municipality of Lamego and you must follow the National Road. 2. _ The Way is bad signaled, recommend much attention in the municipality of Lamego. In case of error back to the National Road. 2., Where is the hostel Penude.
Penude - Santa Marta de Penaguião (sleep at Hotel)
There are a hostel in Bertelo.
Stage essentially of asphalt (80%), but very beautiful. Cross the Douro vineyards.
Santa Marta de Penaguião - Vila Real (Sleep in theSeminar)
Stage with about 50% asphalt, is one of the most beautiful stage of the way.
Vila Real - Parada de Aguiar (new albergue was the best - 2012)
Stage with some asphalt but very beautiful.
Parada de Aguiar - Vidago (overnight on firefighters)
Stage almost always along rural roads, maybe 10% asphalt, or less.
Vidago - Chaves (Sleep in house of family)
Stage about 50% asphalt.
Chaves - Verin (sleep in house of family)
Very flat but asphalt.

My email is amsimoes@gmail.com

Amsimoes

 

[amorfati1]

Don't get me wrong, that's how I've told up there, they are good, but they can't be considered the best. A person who know's the Pasteis de Belém fo years will notice that they are not the same thing that they were some years ago.

I'm just saying that they keep saying the same thing, and people could eat better for a less expensive experience. Taking another example, it's the same thing with the Cervejarias (brewery houses). They keep advertising Portugalia to tourists has the best brewery house in Lisboa, with the best steak. But it isn't. It's a matter of marketing and branding to be very honest.

If you want to keep the traditional and visit a place that almost never changed, check this:

Best Regards
Diogo

Thanks so much for this visual souvenir - Portogallo has a special place in my heart ever since I stayed there in the late 70's as a young teenager. And two years ago I've finally been back - among other places have visited that Cervejarias in Chiado area that is shown in this brief video. Having Bacalhau and Vinho Verde of course (indeed, I skipped the beer). Such fun seeing this place again. Obrigado!

 

[peregrina2000]

Now it's Conde Nast Traveler (in Spanish) telling us 20 reasons to go to Portugal. http://www.traveler.es/viajes/mundo...ivos-para-dejarlo-todo-e-irte-a-portugal/4969

Thanks to my education here on the forum, I can now point out that number 13 is just another perpetuation of the myth that hot pasteis de nata are better than cold.

 

[Camembert]

Now it's Conde Nast Traveler (in Spanish) telling us 20 reasons to go to Portugal. http://www.traveler.es/viajes/mundo...ivos-para-dejarlo-todo-e-irte-a-portugal/4969

Thanks to my education here on the forum, I can now point out that number 13 is just another perpetuation of the myth that hot pasteis de nata are better than cold.

A verdad! Can't wait to go back. Counting down started allready. Within 7 weeks we are about to leave. Viva as pasteìs de nata

 

[mspath]

I agree!

At the end of my last three caminos my husband has joined me to spend the Christmas holidays RESTING in northern Portugal. December 2011 I walked south to the border at Tui/Valenca which involved going "backward" along the Camino Portuguese down from Santiago. Searching for the famous yellow arrows pointing in the opposite direction wasn't easy. Viewed backwards the arrows resembled anchors;thus it all was a bit of a treasure hunt!

Portugal itself was the treasure! The friendly people, the extraordinary architecture and, of course, the delicious meals with WONDERFUL desserts. I can't wait to go back.

Bom apetite e Bom Caminho


........................................................Sao Bento, Christmas 2013

 

[lourameau]

You are absolutely right, Mike. A friend of mine who teaches Creative Writing wrote a memoir about his sabbatical year in Lisbon, called The Moon Come to Earth, and it captures many of my feelings about the city. One particularly memorable scene, not sure why, was when he and his son went into a bar to watch a soccer game. This is a very common event across Europe, bars filled with fans watching soccer. The thing that seemed so different to my friend was the fact that unlike many other European countries, there was no thinly covered level of aggression or vitriol, just a bunch of people watching a game having a good time.

Actually, you can read most of the book for free online at McSweeney's -- http://www.mcsweeneys.net/articles/dispatch-1-i-dont-know-why-i-love-lisbon

I think it's a really good read, especially for anyone heading out on the Caminho in Portugal!

I have enjoyed your articles and last evening I checked out Amalia Rodigues on Youtube. What an experience. Thank you. I am arriving Lisbon on April 23 to find my way to SJPDP and the Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Today's New York Times travel section has an article about several palaces/manors/convents outside of Lisbon, all generally in the area around Sintra. Though Sintra is easy to get to by train from Lisbon, and some of these places are quite accessible on foot or by local bus from Sintra, a few of the others (Montserrate, Convento dos Capuchos ad Quinta da REgaleira) would require a car or taxi, or a lot of walking.

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/08/17/t...on&region=bottom-well&WT.nav=bottom-well&_r=0

Anyway, just one more thing for the pilgrim to do in Lisbon before setting out. Buen camino! Laurie

and p.s. Diogo, the Piriquita (mentioned in the article) is where I first tried the yummy pastry travesseiro, to cross reference to another thread!)

 

[amsimoes]

You can visit the blog, and links:

http://catavino.net/tours/portugal/

Bom caminho

 

[Catharina56]

...Or at least to spend some time there.

http://www.cnn.com/2014/01/25/travel/lisbon-coolest-city/

I love Lisbon!

I fell in love with LISBON as well. I was there last July (2014) and I have stayed in the very nice hostel Golden Tram 242 (4-, 6- 10 persons dormitories as well as luxury double rooms - double rooms with own bathroom & perfect beds!) at the most perfect location near the Rossio Square (metro station Rossio): http://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/golden-tram-242-lisbonne-hostel.nl.html
From the hostel it is a 10-minutes walk to the cathedral. Opposite to the cathedral don't miss the church of S. Antonio de Padua who was born there in 1195. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthony_of_Padua

From the airport in Lisbon you can take the metro to the old centre. Try to find accommodation near metro station Rossio (a few steps from the railway station Estacão do Rossio) or near metro station Baixa-Chiado.
You need to buy a card for making use of the public transportation in Lisbon (€0,50), which card you can upgrade always with the money you need to spend for the next trip. Consider to buy one time a 24-hours card. With that card (€6 or €7) you can travel unlimited by metro, by streetcar, by teleferico and even the famous Santa Justa elevator (just opposite that hostel!) is for free with that card (normally €5 entrance fee for a trip of 3 minutes!). There are some famous historical streetcars to be used, like line 28. Start from the beginning of line 28 in front of Hotel Mundial at Square called Praça Martim Moniz. Stay 2 tot 3 nights in Lisbon, great city!

 

[amsimoes]

Portugal: Europe's best-kept foodie secret
By Paul Ames, for CNN

Updated 0901 GMT (1701 HKT) July 8, 2016

http://edition.cnn.com/2016/07/08/foodanddrink/portugal-food/index.html

AMSimoes

 

[DurhamParish]

I have been debating whether to visit Porto again after the end of my next Camino. The debate is over.

 

[Camembert]

Portugal: Europe's best-kept foodie secret
By Paul Ames, for CNN

Updated 0901 GMT (1701 HKT) July 8, 2016

http://edition.cnn.com/2016/07/08/foodanddrink/portugal-food/index.html

AMSimoes

Shhhs Aurélio ! Don't tell everybody ! Keep it as a secret

Thanks again for your guiding tour to the secret hidden places in Lisbon.
We both loved it and enjoyed the company of you and your lovely wife Rita .

Abraço da Holanda
Albertinho e Nel

 

[shefollowsshells]

You are absolutely right, Mike. A friend of mine who teaches Creative Writing wrote a memoir about his sabbatical year in Lisbon, called The Moon Come to Earth, and it captures many of my feelings about the city. One particularly memorable scene, not sure why, was when he and his son went into a bar to watch a soccer game. This is a very common event across Europe, bars filled with fans watching soccer. The thing that seemed so different to my friend was the fact that unlike many other European countries, there was no thinly covered level of aggression or vitriol, just a bunch of people watching a game having a good time.

Actually, you can read most of the book for free online at McSweeney's -- http://www.mcsweeneys.net/articles/dispatch-1-i-dont-know-why-i-love-lisbon

I think it's a really good read, especially for anyone heading out on the Caminho in Portugal!

I just purchased the book!
Thank you!

 

[shefollowsshells]

I'm seeing that when you come back to Lisbon, I'll show you a "real" pastel de nata. The main reason why Pasteis de Belém are so famous it's because you eat them still hot, with sugar and cinnamon. Try to eat them has a real Pastel de Nata should be eaten (cold) and you will totally see the difference. In the last few years for a National Cuisine Championship, where you have a category just for Pasteis de Nata, Pasteis de Belém never went better than 5th

Best Regards
Diogo

I want to eat a "real" pastel de nata!!!!!!!!!!!!
We will be there March 17,18,19...

 

[shefollowsshells]

UMMMMMM!!!!
Possibly the most enjoyed thread ever on this forum!!!!
Huge thanks to all those with such passion to share!
Hope to add to it over the next few months!
Hugs,
Neve