Green (and white, and gold) Galicia

[alansykes]

Just coming up to the last stages of this year's wonderful camino. Crossing Padornelo, the highest point (?1360m) of the Vía del la Plata, was an experience this year.

On Friday night I stayed for the first time in Requejo. Normally Puebla de Sanabria, 10km earlier, has more attractions, but there was a heavy fall of snow on Thursday night, and I thought I should get as close to the high passes as possible, so that I could turn back in good time if necessary.

Requejo is a friendly, helpful place, with a basic but decent municipal albergue (and several private alternatives). The sidewalks had about 4" of snow on Friday night, and I think I was probably warned by roughly 50% of its population not to think of trying the camino on Saturday, but to stick to the road.

Any temptation to ignore the advice evaporated several km before the summit, when the clouds dropped to 1100m or so, so I wouldn't have got the breathtaking views back east and forward west from the top of some previous years, which might just have made up for collapsing in a snowdrift and being eaten by wolves. So it was through the tunnel and on to the very cosy truckstop near Padornelo village for well earned coffee and tostada. The snow, and cloud, deminished downwards from Padornelo, although I did see wolf footprints, including one set going in the same direction as deer tracks, which I didn't think boded well for the latter.

Last time, two years ago, the camino was closed by AVE work and you had to walk 7km or more of serpentining tarmac to cover the 2km of beautiful track across from Aciberos to Lubián. This year was a bit better, as they've put a track on grass (grass and snow on Saturday) that gets you to Lubián in about 4km, with some of the beautiful ancient waterways alongside you. But it's not like the wonderful green tunnel that the camino used to follow, and which has probably been destroyed forever by the train.

From Lubián back up to A Canda there was little snow, and by 4pm I was in Galicia having caldo galego in the Porta Galego hostal in Vilavella, perfectly acceptable room for 20€.

One of my favourite stages of any camino is the section between A Gudiña and Campobecerros, and this year it's back almost to its previous state, without being forced off the road by AVE dump trucks every 2 minutes. The traffic is slightly worse that in 2010, but it's not that bad. And they are making an amazing effort to cover up their mess - I was quite impressed to see a thick layer of topsoil being plastered over the tunnel waste sites, and trees being planted on top.

And the view on both sides once you get up to the Vendas, especially on a cloudless perfect crisp winter day like yesterday, just wonderful. On my first time, in 2010, some of the hamlets were faintly reminiscent of scenes from Buñuel's Las Hurdes, with grinding poverty and subsistence farming, but the CAP's attempts to push subsidies uphill seem to be working, and there were lots of smart new roofs, several cars less than 30 years old, some casas rural, and many of the people looked as if they had not only heard of hot water but quite enjoyed using it, even some nice looking young people, unlike my first time when there seemed to be nobody much under 50. Quite a transformation.

I stayed in the Nuñez bar/hostal in Campobecerros, where there is even a choice in what to eat in the evening. I think I preferred it before, but as I had the sopa and the cocido like everybody else it didn't make much difference.

 

[VNwalking]

I'm reduced to just being able to say "Wowwwww..."
Thank you Alan, for bringing us along.

 

[Pelegrin]

"On my first time, in 2010, some of the hamlets were faintly reminiscent of scenes from Buñuel's Las Hurdes, with grinding poverty and subsistence farming, but the CAP's attempts to push subsidies uphill seem to be working, and there were lots of smart new roofs, several cars less than 30 years old, some casas rural, and many of the people looked as if they had not only heard of hot water but quite enjoyed using it, even some nice looking young people, unlike my first time when there seemed to be nobody much under 50. Quite a transformation."

In relation to CAP (Common Agricultural Policy) subsidies. The bulk of subsidies was before 2010. I´m not an expert but I think that those subsidies applied only to milky cows and in that area most cows were beef type, so a few subsidies for that area.
The new roofs that you mentioned probably have to do with the helps that the Xunta provides to improve rural houses.
And the young and nice people that use hot water I´m sure that most of them live temporarily there in relation to the AVE works.

 

[LesBrass]

I think that section was one of my favourites... just a few weeks ago we were walking in short sleeves... lucky chap... so wish I was there now

 

[mmm042]

Lovely update -- thanks!

 

[alansykes]

Campobecerros to Vilar de Barrio is almost as good as the previous day. For a couple of hours I was like Caspar David Friedrich's wanderer, high above the clouds. Unfortunately I had to go down into what was freezing fog shortly before Laza. The climb back out from Tamicelas to Albergueria is a bit of a lung-buster, but well worth it to get above the cloud again, and the bar at the top was open for the first time I've passed it, so I was finally able to sign a scallop shell to add to Luis' astonishing collection.

In one of the lovely valleys there were gaping AVE tunnel holes east and west, waiting for the bridge to join them, looking exactly the same as when I walked here last two years ago. I asked the hospitalera in Requejo about the apparent lack of progress in the railway, but had difficulty understanding the rapid stream of heavily accented invective that the question provoked, although allegations of corruption and incompetence seemed predominant.

 

[peregrina2000]

The climb back out from Tamicelas to Albergueria is a bit of a lung-buster, but well worth it to get above the cloud again, and the bar at the top was open for the first time I've passed it, so I was finally able to sign a scallop shell to add to Luis' astonishing collection.

Alan, it's hard to believe you are almost back in Santiago. Thank you so much for letting us follow from afar.

One question about the climb to Albergueria. I have found that the people in Laza are very quick to recommend that people stick to the road, and I have always been glad that I wound up ignoring that advice. Even in wet weather, I don't think this section is particularly treacherous, but I'd love your opinion.

Forum members often advise that we "listen to the locals", but in this case, I thought the off-road version was manageable and much safer than the on-road version, particularly if there is as heavy fog. I'm not saying we should ignore the locals, but I have found that frequently the "locals" have never set foot on the camino and can't understand why anyone would take an alternative to the paved road in getting from point A to point B. What was your experience?

 

[LesBrass]

@peregrina2000 I think my most favourite section of the via is quite possibly the climb from Tamicelas to Albergueria... even with the hill I am scared of heights but as you say the path was good and wide... maybe the downhill out of Albergueria would be hard in wet weather?

My walking buddy took this photo of me and it's one of my favourites from the 100's that I have

 

[alansykes]

I think that section was one of my favourites... just a few weeks ago we were walking in short sleeves... lucky chap... so wish I was there now

It's back to sun block and dark glasses for the last few days to Santiago. Always something of a surprise in Galicia in December

One question about the climb to Albergueria. I have found that the people in Laza are very quick to recommend that people stick to the road, and I have always been glad that I wound up ignoring that advice. Even in wet weather, I don't think this section is particularly treacherous, but I'd love your opinion.

Forum members often advise that we "listen to the locals", but in this case, I thought the off-road version was manageable and much safer than the on-road version, particularly if there is as heavy fog. I'm not saying we should ignore the locals, but I have found that frequently the "locals" have never set foot on the camino and can't understand why anyone would take an alternative to the paved road in getting from point A to point B. What was your experience?

I quite agree about sticking to the track. One year there was thick cloud and I went all the way on the road thinking it was safer, and it was horrible. Quite narrow, and quite a lot of traffic. Much better stay on that lovely wooded walk, especially at the moment when the late autumn colours are still magnificent.

Yesterday, for only the second time, I took the right hand turn out of Ourense, and I may be converted. I think it may be 1 or possibly 2km longer than the left hand route, but you are off road very quickly, climbing up through pretty villages with some good views back to the Miño. When I've previously gone left, it's been at the weekend and the traffic down that steep narrow road has not been too bad, but I suspect it's a lot worse on a weekday, which is the main reason I opted for right this time. By 2pm I was eating pulpo and pan de Cea in Cea's pulpería, and having a brief chat with Orlando, Cea's beret-ed and mustache-ed hospitalero, a gaita expert. And by 5pm I was in the monastery at Oseira, whose albergue seemed a lot less damp than I remember, positively comfortable, even without a sleeping bag. Vespers in the Gothic chapel is one of the highlights of the camino, with the Gormenghast tour in the darkened corridors and staircases to reach the chapel, and then the tiny number of monks keeping the place alive. Down to 12, I was told (8 were present) but there seemed to be a couple of young postulants among the grey and white hair, so perhaps they'll survive.

Today's highlight came on one of the altos near Castro Dozon, when I recognised the Pico Sacro in the distance, visible from the cathedral in Santiago, and the landing lights for the Sanabrés. And now I'm in the albergue in Laxe, using the surprisingly good xunta pilgrim wi-fi and looking forward to an hour of local music in the community centre bit of the albergue - the only one I've ever been in 5 times. Another plus, they seem to have ditched part of the movement sensitive lighting, so it's now possible to read a book in the seating area upstairs without having to jump up and down every three minutes to turn the lights back on.

 

[VNwalking]

Gosh, you're fast, Alan.
All best wishes for a buen camino...may you enjoy every last step!
I've been enjoying the vicarious journey.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, someone is going to have to show me a picture of the spot for the turn-off to the right. I have looked for it several times and have always wound up going up that steep little road. My understanding was that the left side has less pavement, but that might not be right.

Enjoy the last little bit, Alan, I can't believe you are almost there! Laurie

 

[Peregrinopaul]

And by 5pm I was in the monastery at Oseira,........and then the tiny number of monks keeping the place alive. Down to 12, I was told (8 were present) but there seemed to be a couple of young postulants among the grey and white hair, so perhaps they'll survive.

When I stayed there in 2012, I was told that this old monk knew both Ernest Hemingway and Graham Greene, (who visited several times with his Spanish priest friend; he set the ending of his novel "Monsignor Quixote" at Oseira).

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Vespers in the Gothic chapel is one of the highlights of the camino,

Oseira was particularly special for me.
In my youth, my father would take my brothers and I on holiday we thought (!), to the cistercian Abbey of Mt St Bernard in Leicestershire, where a school friend of my father had entered to become a monk after leaving school. We shared in the spiritual and practical life of the monastery, which was totally self-sufficient, usually for a week at a time. My older brother, (mentioned in a recent post), used to take a cricket set, and organise a match on the lawn of the guest house. I don't know if you can imagine a monk bowling in full habit, but I've faced one several times. (A lay brother used to keep a look out for the Abbot).
At the conclusion of my brother's recent funeral, I played a recording of the monks singing the sublime "Salve Regina", which was always the last sung prayer at the end of the day.

 

[alansykes]

When I stayed there in 2012, I was told that this old monk knew both Ernest Hemingway and Graham Greene, (who visited several times with his Spanish priest friend; he set the ending of his novel "Monsignor Quixote" at Oseira).
View attachment 30608

They showed me the "cell" Greene stayed in regularly - a very comfortable en suite with bedroom, sitting room with writing table and balcony looking out over the uplands. Ideal for writing, and the monk who showed me implied that Greene liked it not just for where it was, but as an excuse to get a break from a slightly clinging mistress in France. Trappist monks can be amazingly chatty.

Well, someone is going to have to show me a picture of the spot for the turn-off to the right. I have looked for it several times and have always wound up going up that steep little road. My understanding was that the left side has less pavement, but that might not be right.

Enjoy the last little bit, Alan, I can't believe you are almost there! Laurie

I should have taken a picture, but if you turn right shortly before the railway station, then stick to the N525 for a km or so until a petrol station (on the right), there are then very clear camino markings onto the camino real. And then very clear all the way up. I would say the tarmac was about the same on both sides, but less car road on the right. It's the way I'll be going if I do the Sanabrés again (when ...).

Decided to stay the night at the truck stop in Ponte Ulla (10€), a slightly shorter day from Laxe, and 4km longer into Santiago tomorrow, but the albergue at Outeiro is rather out on a limb. And last night at the albergue at Laxe, having bought some supper in Lalín, there was absolutely nothing in the kitchen at all, not a knife, not a plate, not a glass, just an impressive cooker with no pots or pans. I assume Outeiro is the same (Vilar de Barrio had one plate, three glasses and a spoon, and I don't like the albergue in Ourense (beautiful building but), so stayed in a nice hostal near the station, a km or so closer to Cea).

The Pico Sacro looked so beautiful as it got closer. Hope the Reina Loba doesn't have me for Sunday lunch tomorrow.

 

[Old Gringo]

Campobecerros to Vilar de Barrio is almost as good as the previous day. For a couple of hours I was like Caspar David Friedrich's wanderer, high above the clouds. Unfortunately I had to go down into what was freezing fog shortly before Laza. The climb back out from Tamicelas to Albergueria is a bit of a lung-buster, but well worth it to get above the cloud again, and the bar at the top was open for the first time I've passed it, so I was finally able to sign a scallop shell to add to Luis' astonishing collection.

In one of the lovely valleys there were gaping AVE tunnel holes east and west, waiting for the bridge to join them, looking exactly the same as when I walked here last two years ago. I asked the hospitalera in Requejo about the apparent lack of progress in the railway, but had difficulty understanding the rapid stream of heavily accented invective that the question provoked, although allegations of corruption and incompetence seemed predominant.

The story I got about the AVE when I did the Camino last year is that the money had run out and Spain is not economically able to provide more at this time. That said there were certain parts/projects that once started had to be finished, like tunnels and routine maintenance work.

 

[jprogers]

Hi there Peregrina2000. The turn to the right ....out of Ourense ....after walking over the bridge and before the railway at Av de Santiago. If you look at googlemaps and drag the yellow "person/icon" to that spot...there is a small triangular traffic island. Within that island is a large sculpture grey stone with the arrows pointing either right of straight ahead. I did this sort of research before I walked this way this year ...and was guided by the forum comments....and someone mentioned the stone.

 

[Magwood]

not a plate, not a glass, just an impressive cooker with no pots or pans. I assume Outeiro is the same

I stayed at the Outeiro albergue last year and ate the very uninspiring, but welcome, food offered by the hospitalera. Meanwhile the Italians, who had done their homework, had purchased ingredients for a meal in the previous town and were creating wonderful aromas in the kitchen. So I can only assume it was well equipped.

 

[LesBrass]

We had planned to stay at Outeiro and I bought provisions in Ponte Ulla but during our lunch stop the owner of the little hostel offered us a deal we couldn't refuse. It had been raining all day and we were wet and cold... she suggested we leave our bags and walk to Outeiro (our planned destination). Once there we should ring and she would collect us... and after breakfast the following day she would return us to the same spot.

We accepted but did walk up to the albergue where we met a man on the last day of his 5000km walk... he found that penultimate day very emotional. The views from inside were lovely and he said it was well equipped but it did feel cold and there were no blankets.

We'd almost jogged up the hill without our packs and were really surprised driving back down how steep it actually had been. Back in our hostel our rooms were warm and we still shared our shopping picnic for dinner... it was a good choice for us.

@alansykes I will miss you updates... as i am really missing the walk. Have a wonderful walk into Santiago

 

[mmm042]

Here's the sign leaving Ourense. A local Camino expert said pilgrims in the (way) past took both routes. Sometimes one way was blocked by people charging tariffs to continue, so pilgrims diverted to the other route. But then tariffs would also be charged on that route. So both ways were used. At some point in recent history, someone decreed the "official" route is the right-handed one.

Melanie