Growing numbers on the Camino Portugues - newspaper article

[Bradypus]

A piece from La Voz de Galicia commenting on the remarkable growth in numbers walking the Camino Portugues and especially the Coastal variant. The president of the local Amigos association attributing much of that success to easy access to Porto for international travellers. He suggested that by the time of the next Holy Year the numbers walking the Portugues routes may be greater than those on the Frances.

El Camino desde Portugal amenaza con superar en número de peregrinos al Francés

La ruta de la costa crece un 82 % en lo que va de año

www.lavozdegalicia.es

 

[jungleboy]

I am not sure what to think about this.

On one hand, on this forum and elsewhere I have long been a proponent of a more even distribution of pilgrims across various routes (essentially, away from the Francés). I just don't think it makes sense or is sustainable long-term or really desirable for anyone to have big crowds and bed races at certain times on the Francés while other routes are completely empty. But on the other hand ... the Portuguese coastal is not really what I had in mind for where the numbers 'should' go (more like the CPI or Geira if speaking about Portugal, or any number of less travelled caminos in Spain).

On my own scale that I'm just making up now, if the Camino Francés is the prototypical (modern) pilgrimage route, and the Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal is a walking holiday, then I'd put the Portuguese Coastal closer to the latter than the former. My perception is that it only just feels like a camino, if at all, though that does change once it rejoins the central. Without trying to ignite the 'true pilgrim' debate, if there is a significant shift towards the Portuguese coastal instead of more traditional routes, it might go as far as changing the idea of what pilgrimage is (and maybe that's inevitable anyway, and maybe it's already happening on the traditional routes regardless).

What do others think?

 

[Bradypus]

, it might go as far as changing the idea of what pilgrimage is (and maybe that's inevitable anyway, and maybe it's already happening on the traditional routes regardless).

I think that ship sailed long ago. Personally I'm not much concerned about the 'authenticity' of a particular route. My own understanding of pilgrimage is focussed much more on the destination than the route. So for me any route which leads a pilgrim to the tomb of the Apostle is a valid Camino. That is why I object so strongly to the cathedral's decision to give the Compostela only to those who walk one of their approved routes. I think that shifts the focus to the wrong place.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

On my own scale that I'm just making up now, if the Camino Francés is the prototypical (modern) pilgrimage route, and the Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal is a walking holiday, then I'd put the Portuguese Coastal closer to the latter than the former. My perception is that it only just feels like a camino, if at all, though that does change once it rejoins the central.

Having walked the Rota Vicentina, I agree that it is a lovely and stunning walking holiday, but also agree it totally lacked the feel of a pilgrimage Camino. I was not disappointed though as I had no expectations that it should. Afterward I then took a bus to Porto, choosing the Central route to hopefully have a similar feel to the Frances route.

I have not walked the Portuguese Coastal route other than the first two days out of Porto, but your comparison of a similarity to the Rota V. is probably true.
In fact, as much as I absolutely loved the first half of the Norte along the coast, I also remember thinking it did not remind me of the Frances and I noticed its lack of a pilgrimage feel, too.

I too, have no interest in debating what a "true pilgrim" is; I'm merely sharing my personal reflections.

 

[arkron]

Same number of pilgrims like on CF? Where are the albergues with 100-200 beds, then, like in Roncesvalles or Pamplona?

 

[Bradypus]

Same number of pilgrims like on CF? Where are the albergues with 100-200 beds, then, like in Roncesvalles or Pamplona?

The Amigos president talks of the danger of numbers increasing faster than capacity: "Now, "as the story changed ", the fear that Lores has is that the "Portuguese Way will die of success." To avoid this, "we must continue to grow in a sustainable way," he says." (Google Translate)

 

[Marc S.]

Same number of pilgrims like on CF? Where are the albergues with 100-200 beds, then, like in Roncesvalles or Pamplona?

Maybe on the CP people stay more often in private accomodation instead of albergues. I do not know for a fact, but is an impression I have. See also this quote from the article that the CP attracts many more high-net-worth pilgrims come with tourist packages that organize everything for them

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Maybe on the CP people stay more often in private accomodation instead of albergues. I do not know for a fact, but is an impression I have. See also this quote from the article that the CP attracts many more high-net-worth pilgrims come with tourist packages that organize everything for them

I've asked a friend of mine exactly that question, she's on the CP at the moment, leading a small group. I know she predominantly uses Albergues (unless her clients desire otherwise).

I know we occasionally see comments from people here on the forum who booked their first camino as an assisted package tour, it would be interesting to get their feedback.

Re: private accommodation, there is a highly entertaining 'Live on Camino' thread here on the forum from @Cheryl2445, and clearly she and her daughter are enjoying themselves immensely, staying in private accommodation.

But then, that could be said of many of us on any of the caminos !

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@lt56ny, you walked this route last year didn't you? What are your thoughts?

 

[Elle Bieling]

Having just walked the Coastal and the Senda Litoral six months ago, I can honestly say that the numbers of pilgrims on these routes were astounding! The albergue in Vigo has over 90 beds, and both nights we were there on the separate routes, it was full! It is definitely the largest albergue on this Camino.

Because the routes are on the seaside, already tourist destinations, I would agree that many pilgrims are staying in non-albergue accommodations. The seaside itself would attract a higher-end tourist-type pilgrim. We tended to avoid the albergues because of the sheer numbers of pilgrims we saw. We were not interested in a bed race, and we could afford to stay elsewhere. Almost everyone is attracted to the sea and pilgrims are no exception. Walking a pilgrimage by the sea, seems like an archetypal experience to me!

I was also astounded at how many pilgrims I met who said the Coastal and/or Senda Litoral was their first Camino! In my mind, this has shifted significantly over the years along with the numbers. The Camino Francés may be losing its luster as the "real" Camino. And yes, Porto is much, much easier to get to than SJPP.

I did feel that the Coastal Route, especially when it didn't follow the sea, felt more like a Camino, with hills, crosses and Roman roads, but yet, the seaside Sendal Litoral is also Camino-like in that you can find lots of pilgrim comraderie. It's easier, flat and on lovely boardwalks that are easy on the lower extremeties! What's not to like?

Regardless of my thoughts, what will be, will be, and hopefully as this pilgrimage grows, so will the orderliness and oversight by the powers that be! Incidently, there are also many more pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section. I will tackle that section in a week and report back on that one!!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Having just walked the Coastal and the Senda Litoral six months ago, I can honestly say that the numbers of pilgrims on these routes were astounding! The albergue in Vigo has over 90 beds, and both nights we were there on the separate routes, it was full! It is definitely the largest albergue on this Camino.

Because the routes are on the seaside, already tourist destinations, I would agree that many pilgrims are staying in non-albergue accommodations. The seaside itself would attract a higher-end tourist-type pilgrim. We tended to avoid the albergues because of the sheer numbers of pilgrims we saw. We were not interested in a bed race, and we could afford to stay elsewhere. Almost everyone is attracted to the sea and pilgrims are no exception. Walking a pilgrimage by the sea, seems like an archetypal experience to me!

I was also astounded at how many pilgrims I met who said the Coastal and/or Senda Litoral was their first Camino! In my mind, this has shifted significantly over the years along with the numbers. The Camino Francés may be losing its luster as the "real" Camino. And yes, Porto is much, much easier to get to than SJPP.

I did feel that the Coastal Route, especially when it didn't follow the sea, felt more like a Camino, with hills, crosses and Roman roads, but yet, the seaside Sendal Litoral is also Camino-like in that you can find lots of pilgrim comraderie. It's easier, flat and on lovely boardwalks that are easy on the lower extremeties! What's not to like?

Regardless of my thoughts, what will be, will be, and hopefully as this pilgrimage grows, so will the orderliness and oversight by the powers that be! Incidently, there are also many more pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section. I will tackle that section in a week and report back on that one!!

I enjoyed reading your observations on the two Portuguese routes that mostly follow the sea; the Senda Litoral and Coastal route, Elle, and look forward to your report when you get back home!

 

[Friend from Barquinha]

Incidently, there are also many more pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section. I will tackle that section in a week and report back on that one!!

We just came back from our house just uphill from the Lisbon>Porto section, in north-of-the-tracks Barquinha just south of Tomar. We were often working down in the yard in the morning when peregrinos were walking through. Otherwise, we can see the walkers from our home's back windows. So we see many of them!

I would guess we were seeing at least 6 on the typical day, over the month from early March to early April. This was way more than we had seen in other years. And this is pretty early for the out-of-Lisboa Portuguese caminho. We talked to some walkers, since we were sometimes just over the fence, working away, with our neighbour's sheep, the local lawn-mowers, following us around for the more succulent weeds we pulled up, and other goodies...

Quite a few of the walkers were Spanish and thus not likely to be accessing and being part of this English-language forum all that much. Very few were Portuguese. (The Portuguese pilgrim experience is very much focussed on Fátima.) Typically, we were seeing pairs, with the occasional trio.

Our concelho (municipality) formally marked the Santiago route about 3 or 4 years ago. In the last year, they also have formally marked the Fátima route, which in our area, goes east>west through Entroncamento, rather than north>south to Tomar, as the Santiago route does.

Central Portugal (in our area, Ribatejo, anyway) seems very committed to the pilgrimages. Good to see.

Bom caminho, wherever you're heading!

 

[Elle Bieling]

Our concelho (municipality) formally marked the Santiago route about 3 or 4 years ago. In the last year, they also have formally marked the Fátima route, which in our area, goes east>west through Entroncamento, rather than north>south to Tomar, as the Santiago route does.

So good to hear!! Thank you so much for this info. I am going to contact you privately.

 

[JimG59]

Incidently, there are also many more pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section. I will tackle that section in a week and report back on that one!!

Are you doing this section again ? Was it about 7 years ago you walked from Lisbon?

I enjoyed your Camino Portuguese blog very much especially the days from Lisbon.

 

[Elle Bieling]

Are you doing this section again ? Was it about 7 years ago you walked from Lisbon?

I have redone sections since 2017, but this time I am doing the entire section from Alverca to Porto.. I did the first day out of Lisbon on the new board walk last year.

 

[Elle Bieling]

I enjoyed your Camino Portuguese blog very much especially the days from Lisbon.

Thank you!!

 

[slmoser]

Same number of pilgrims like on CF? Where are the albergues with 100-200 beds, then, like in Roncesvalles or Pamplona?

Walking the central route right now and it is FAR less crowded than the CF was this same time last year. Have yet to see any signs that say hostels and albergues are full… We have seen many pilgrims walk into all types of accommodations with no problem getting a bed/room.

 

[Elle Bieling]

More than halfway from Lisbon to Porto, now in Coimbra. There are more new pilgrims we are seeing each day. A total guess is about 25-30 we have seen moving in similar stages.

The municipal albergue in Cernache is closed making Conimbriga a pinch point. Only one 10-bed private albergue and the owner was turning pilgrims away. The nearest town with accommodations is a bit of a distance off-Camino in Condeixa-a-Velha or Condeixa-a-Nova and they are expensive comparatively.

The traditional stages to avoid Conimbriga are 30 or more kms.

This route is seeing a huge increase in pilgrims. A Dutch woman I talked to was having trouble with getting a bed in albergues. Because we are more flexible, we have had no trouble. However I was very happy to have reserved the Albergue de Conimbriga, 2 days ahead, or perhaps an Uber would have been required!

 

[Elle Bieling]

I failed to mention that again, I am meeting a lot of pilgrims who say this Portugese Camino is their first Camino!

 

[Friend from Barquinha]

Today is a tough day, I would expect, for finding lodging. A national holiday, with probably a long weekend for everyone. Bom 25 de Abril!

 

[TomCole]

I am not sure what to think about this.

On one hand, on this forum and elsewhere I have long been a proponent of a more even distribution of pilgrims across various routes (essentially, away from the Francés). I just don't think it makes sense or is sustainable long-term or really desirable for anyone to have big crowds and bed races at certain times on the Francés while other routes are completely empty. But on the other hand ... the Portuguese coastal is not really what I had in mind for where the numbers 'should' go (more like the CPI or Geira if speaking about Portugal, or any number of less travelled caminos in Spain).

On my own scale that I'm just making up now, if the Camino Francés is the prototypical (modern) pilgrimage route, and the Rota Vicentina in southern Portugal is a walking holiday, then I'd put the Portuguese Coastal closer to the latter than the former. My perception is that it only just feels like a camino, if at all, though that does change once it rejoins the central. Without trying to ignite the 'true pilgrim' debate, if there is a significant shift towards the Portuguese coastal instead of more traditional routes, it might go as far as changing the idea of what pilgrimage is (and maybe that's inevitable anyway, and maybe it's already happening on the traditional routes regardless).

What do others think?

Have you walked the Senda Litoral yet?

 

[jungleboy]

Have you walked the Senda Litoral yet?

Some of it, insofar as it’s not really a camino but just a few seaside alternative stages off the coastal.

 

[TomCole]

Some of it, insofar as it’s not really a camino but just a few seaside alternative stages off the coastal.

What makes it a Camino?

 

[jungleboy]

What makes it a Camino?

I would say being a continuous path and having arrows, for a start. The Wise Pilgrim map below is slightly confusing as the SL seems to start out as blue and then later becomes red. But you can see that there are not two continuous paths. The SL is a variant of the Coastal on some days; on other days there is only one path. As far as I recall, the SL has no way-marking signs and is not counted/considered separately from the Coastal in terms of the compostela or pilgrim office statistics. Basically, it’s four non-continuous variant stages of the Coastal.

 

[Elle Bieling]

I have walked the entire Senda Litoral just last fall, and while I am not one to say whether or not it is "official" in the eyes of the cathedral, I can definitely say that in my experience there are arrows. Along the boardwalks on the Senda Litora there are waymark boards. See this photo below.



Some of the municipalities have taken it upon themselves to create their own waymarks, like the green arrows on blue stickers after A Ramallosa. The first photo below of the tourist information office by the water shows that they are committed to making this a "real" Camino and judging by the numbers of pilgrims walking it, they are succeeding. The second photo is along the Senda Litoral after A Ramallosa. Look on the pole, you can clearly see one of the new blue stickers with green arrows. This entire stage from A Ramallosa to Vigo has these stickers and/or green arrows, sometimes yellow too!





And this last photo shows the yellow arrows along the Senda Litoral on the way into Vila Praia de Âncora.



So, the infamous "someone" is clearly creating this Camino. About the only place that I found that wasn't marked with arrows is the walk along the river out of Porto. But they begin as soon as you turn northward at the ocean. All of these waymarks are frequent enough for a pilgrim to easily find their way, along the entire Senda Litoral.

I have extensively documented the Senda Litoral, with maps, GPS tracks, ammenites such as accommodations, and including photos of arrows/waymarks along it, on my website, starting on this page, my day fifteen on the Senda Litoral (CP count starting from Lisbon). I believe that it is only a matter of time until the powers that be make it "official" if it isn't already. Maybe someone from the Pilgrim's office can clarify this.

 

[TomCole]

I would say being a continuous path and having arrows, for a start. The Wise Pilgrim map below is slightly confusing as the SL seems to start out as blue and then later becomes red. But you can see that there are not two continuous paths. The SL is a variant of the Coastal on some days; on other days there is only one path. As far as I recall, the SL has no way-marking signs and is not counted/considered separately from the Coastal in terms of the compostela or pilgrim office statistics. Basically, it’s four non-continuous variant stages of the Coastal.

View attachment 172910

Then what makes a pilgrimage?

 

[Bradypus]

Then what makes a pilgrimage?

Because you end at the shrine of the Apostle. No more and no less a pilgrimage than any other route.

 

[David Tallan]

I would say being a continuous path and having arrows, for a start. The Wise Pilgrim map below is slightly confusing as the SL seems to start out as blue and then later becomes red. But you can see that there are not two continuous paths. The SL is a variant of the Coastal on some days; on other days there is only one path. As far as I recall, the SL has no way-marking signs and is not counted/considered separately from the Coastal in terms of the compostela or pilgrim office statistics. Basically, it’s four non-continuous variant stages of the Coastal.

View attachment 172910

There is definitely waymarking on the Senda Litoral out of Porto and on towards Vila do Conde, where it meets up with the Coastal. Beyond that, I can't speak to it because I didn't follow either.