Growth in pilgrim numbers on the Primitivo

[peregrina2000]

There are several current threads on the Primitivo with questions and comments about crowds. I took a look at the Cathedral's yearly statistics, http://peregrinossantiago.es/esp/servicios-al-peregrino/informes-estadisticos/

I've just gone back to 2008, when I first walked, but the website goes back further.

2008 -- 2719
2009 -- 3388
2010 (Holy Year) -- 7661 (2.8% of all pilgrims getting the compostela)
2011 -- 5, 544 (3%)
2012 -- 6349 (3.3%)
2013 -- 6,85 (3.17%)
2014 -- 8275 (3.48%)
2015 -- 11,428 (4.35%)

I am not a statistician but it seems pretty clear that in addition to the growth in absolute numbers, the Primitivo is becoming more popular vis a vis the other caminos.

The Primitivo pilgrims are probably concentrated into fewer months than some of the other caminos, so the crunches may be felt more acutely.

And I also think the numbers probably under-report. Many people starting in Irun turn left at Villaviciosa and continue on the Primitivo, so I think they are counted in the pilgrim office as pilgrims on the Norte.

I walked the first time in October, 2008 and there were always pilgrims at the albergue, no crowd, no rush, perfect weather. AHHHHHHH.

The second time, in late June, 2011, nice groups, no rushes, no crowding (except for the night in Berducedo, but the private albergue was open then and took the overflow -- but it is NOT very highly regarded).

So if 2015 had more than twice the numbers of 2011 when I last walked, I guess I'm in for some crowding this summer. Looking at the lists of accommodations/albergues, they certainly haven't doubled since I walked.

Well, it's too bad we didn't heed Anemone's advice and keep our mouths shut about this lovely camino! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I really think the Primitivo should be reserved for those who walked it before 2016. A grand father clause just for us!

 

[Juanma]

Hello everyone.

And I also think the numbers probably under-report. Many people starting in Irun turn left at Villaviciosa and continue on the Primitivo, so I think they are counted in the pilgrim office as pilgrims on the Norte.

Laurie, not only it is as you said (which is totally right), but also consider that the official numbers of the oficina del peregrino talk about those pilgrims that did pick up their compostela when they arrived in Santiago; it is easy to think that there are quite a number of pilgrims who never pick it up: some because they already have one or more from previous caminos, some others because they don't want / can't pay for it, some others because they don't believe and want to have nothing to do with Church, and some others - mainly in the high season in Summer - just because they don't want to queu for hours
Bearing all that in mind, I believe that, talking about the Primitivo in particular, the actual number of pilgrims walking it is easily 20-30% higher that said by the oficina del peregrino, especially in the leg from Lugo (last 100km, which qualifies for the compostela). Just a personal opinion.

Definitely 2016 is going to be a big year in the Primitivo: on one side because of the Holy Year of Mercy, and on the other because the Xunta is promoting it this year (they will promote all other caminos, one per year, until 2020 or 2021). I expect crowds in July and August (just as the past few years, nothing new anyway), probably also on specific days in the second half of June and first half of September, but the rest of the year I believe it will be more or less like 2015, with basically most days having no problem to find accomodation

Regarding albergues, they probably haven't doubled since 2011, but they are definitely in the way to do it!: when I visited Castroverde, O Cadavo and Fonsagrada last October I was told about new accomodations to be opened soon in all 3 of those places (2 or 3 in each one). There's also a new albergue opening this coming season here in Ferreira. I guess it's Lugo that is not up to the Primitivo growth, as I have heard of no new accomodations to be opened there at all, something that is really hard to understand...

 

[Skandinaviangirl]

I was planning on walking the Primitivo by turning left in Villaviciosa in july-august... It kind of bothers me to know that it is going to be crowded on the way, really.

Comparing to CF, I'm guessing the crowd on the Primitivo won't be anything near the crowd on CF, am I right?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I was planning on walking the Primitivo by turning left in Villaviciosa in july-august... It kind of bothers me to know that it is going to be crowded on the way, really.

Comparing to CF, I'm guessing the crowd on the Primitivo won't be anything near the crowd on CF, am I right?

Nothing like the Frances. It won't be any more crowded than the rest of the Norte. It's just more travelled than before.

 

[Skandinaviangirl]

Nothing like the Frances. It won't be any more crowded than the rest of the Norte. It's just more travelled than before.

Phew.
Still, it's a pity though. Let's hope there will still be a lot of time for solitude, lonesome walking and silence!

 

[Rajy62]

I was planning on walking the Primitivo by turning left in Villaviciosa in july-august... It kind of bothers me to know that it is going to be crowded on the way, really.

Comparing to CF, I'm guessing the crowd on the Primitivo won't be anything near the crowd on CF, am I right?

I walked the Primitivo during June, 2014. I was seeing about 25 people in any given day. Alberques were filling up fast and i started reserving 1-2 days in advance to make sure that i break at specific distances. I wanted to walk about 20-25k max per day. Expect more people during July & August for sure, but nowhere near as crowded as the Frances.

 

[norelle]

I walked the Primitivo in June 2015 and I know of 5 pilgrims who stopped in Lugo. This was their plan - they were all Spanish and had walked into Santiago on previous caminos. They wouldn't be included in the cathedral's statistics and I'm sure there would be others as well.

I've mentioned previously, I was in a large wave of pilgrims but a friend just one day behind had a very quiet and peaceful camino!

It is a beautiful way.

buen camino

 

[LTfit]

Good to hear that early June may be safe as far as numbers. After last year on the Camí Sant Jaume, Aragónes and in the spring on the Levante I am not used to crowds. The most we saw were one or two other pilgrims during the entire Camino!

 

[ramble-on]

I'm planning to walk the CdN & Primitive sometime this year. I'm thinking about the period between June and September, but am a bit concerned there may be too many pilgrims for the number of beds in the Albergues de peregrinos during the "high" season. There seems to be quite a variability in the size/number of beds of the albergues along these routes. For example, using the Gronze.com stages, the end of Stage 9 (Castro Urdiales) has only 16 at the albergue whereas Bilboa (Stage 7) has more than 300 and Portugalete (Stage 8) has around 60. I think the same is perhaps even more apparent on the Primitivo but would appreciate hearing about peoples' experiences there. I will not get into bed-racing, but neither do I want to sleep under a hedge!

So my question is, to those who have walked the CdN & Primitivo, have you actually had any real problems finding accommodation (especially those who walked during the summer months), and if so, how did you deal with the problem? My Spanish is not great, I would prefer to not have the constraint of pre-booking accommodation, and I may not even carry a cell phone with which to try to do that. Many thanks.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I walked the Norte in September 2014 and some people had had to sleep on the church next door's poarch a few days before. Is Castro there were tents in the yard and mattresses on tables and floors. But thr albergues were not filled by noon, far from it. The issue with these two routes is that they have super walkers who waltz in after 8 & 9 pm after walking 40km plus. By the time they areive the beds are likely to be taken...

 

[Rajy62]

So my question is, to those who have walked the CdN & Primitivo, have you actually had any real problems finding accommodation (especially those who walked during the summer months), and if so, how did you deal with the problem? My Spanish is not great, I would prefer to not have the constraint of pre-booking accommodation, and I may not even carry a cell phone with which to try to do that. Many thanks.

I started in Irun last week of May and hit the Primitivo during the last two weeks of June. Although alberques were getting full in some places. But never met anyone having difficulty finding a bed. Except in Borreas (Before the high level Hospitales route) where there was only one municipal that was full and people had to walk back 2km to the previous town. I reserved mainly to ensure that my stage distances are fixed. Also, Norte goes through very popular tourist towns. Depending on the time you choose, cheaper accommodation can fill up very quickly. So, my suggestion is to aim for June or September. July and August would be the busiest. This is a beautiful walk. Buen Camino.
My stages are here:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...mitivo-may-25-june-27-2014.27811/#post-226937

 

[crackmrmac]

I will not get into bed-racing, but neither do I want to sleep under a hedge!

Last year on Primitivo late June early July no problem finding a bed in albergues was my experience.

 

[Tia Valeria]

In May 2012 on one night the albergues at Berducedo and La Mesa were all full and some folk had to go on to Grandas de Salime. This was a surge which passed us as we were in Grandas de Salime. Prior to that and following there was no problem. So if there is a difficulty with a similar surge of pilgrims then try spending 2 nights somewhere and they will have dispersed, or got well ahead of you

 

[ramble-on]

Many thanks. The more I read here and elsewhere the easier I feel. I've got quite a lot of flexibility so I can take a "rest" day to let a surge through, or simply shorten my day's walk from what I currently intend to do. There seem to be only a few stages as I've planned them where there are no albergues from beginning to end (and even then, there are often hosteles/pensiones to try, e.g. Pola de Siero to Oviedo). For any who are interested, I've attached a pdf with the stages and albergues listed in Gronze.com. I'm likely going to update it with information from "The Northern Caminos" guidebook before I go - mid June is when I'm hoping to start.

 

[Mark2012]

I've been thinking May or July for the Primitivo this year, ideally walking the Salvador first.

I walked the Norte last year, starting on May 16. I stuck with the Norte at the option point where some turned left for the Primitivo. The crowds on the Norte at that time last year were very manageable, not that busy at all. There were many days when the entire walking day passed without seeing another pilgrim, though there was nearly always a healthy number in the albergues every night.

I met a lot of people in those first couple of weeks who signalled their intention to take the Primitivo turn when the time came, so, just as has been mentioned above, that chunk of people are probably regarded as Norte walkers in the official stats.

When I reached Santiago, I bumped into an Australian couple I had met on the Norte, but who took the Primitivo turn. They told me that they had been a bit unlucky with regard to their 'wave'. They said the late-May/early-June numbers weren't heavy as such, but they found themselves paced by a US tour party of 15-20 pilgrims who moved as a block and, apparently, that made for a crowded situation in certain stops.

Anyway, looking at the posts above, it seems to me that I should target a May departure if I can make it happen!

 

[bkrey]

I took the CdN and Primitivo last year starting in early May. This is a nice time of year to travel on foot, very moderate temperatures and the Spanish gardens were a riot of colour. I only had one day on the Primitivo where I had to travel further than planned due to no vacancy - at Berducedo. In general it was uncrowded, and I noticed frequently there were new accommodations not listed in my guidebook. As others have mentioned some small hotels have pilgrim-friendly rooms, I think it was in Pola de Siero I had a private room w/ en suite and breakfast for 14 euros.
I don't think you will regret taking this beautiful route.

Cheers

 

[Jools]

Ramble-on you have the right idea and you will have a great Camino - I walked the Primitivo in July last year (2015) and found it a breeze - I never had a problem getting a bed but I took my time and wasn't in a rush - in some places like San Juan de Villapenada, Salas & Borres there were only about 5 of us in each place, the secret is allowing yourself time to walk shorter days or have a rest day rather than trying to do it in a short time (where you are likely to get stuck with waves and bottlenecks), my fave spots were Borres, for the wonderful Gloria who runs the only bar in town (and the albergue), Castro, for the great communal meal and Ponte Ferriera, again great communal meal but I also enjoyed so many other places and even the ones where I stayed alone, if you have time you don't have to plan so much and can let the Camino be your guide

 

[leicoppes]

I walked the Primitivo in july 2015.It was just great fun and not crowded at all.It was just relaxed until Melide,but even after that it was still a pleasure to walk the Camino

 

[Kropelka]

I walked the Primitivo middle of April 2015 and that was the best of all mentioned before !!! Really nice weather all the way (only 3 days of rain in 13 days journey), mild temperatures, peace and solitude, were few pilgrims on the track but still a few to talk to. Some days were only me on the way the whole day Lots of beds and plenty of space in albergues to the point that it was almost a shock (for me) after Melide and crowds from the Frances.