Hard Core Salvador + Primitivo + Finnesterre Itinerary

[Damien Reynolds]

My 2018 plan...

This is all based on Beatrice's experience and Laurie's previous guidance. I have 3 months to train my ass off, to be able to pull this one. I think I can and already feel inspired.

 

[domigee]

Looks like a good plan Happy training!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Looks like a good plan Happy training!

Serious training. It really does a bunch for me to commit to a goal and go for it, especially when physical exercise is required. My day to day job is very stressful and the training helps relieve the stress. The days on the camino... wake up, walk, find breakfast, walk, find lunch, walk, find where I'm going to stay, do laundry, eat, etc, are a great gift. That's why I go back.

 

[NualaOC]

A hard-core itinerary indeed - go Damien! Happy training and Buen Camino.

 

[spursfan]

Damien
I walked Oviedo-Lugo in 7 days - each day typically 6-8 hours of walking and some 1,000 metres up and down

You're planning to walk that in 5.5 days (the last 100km is pretty straightforward) so will need 8-10 hours of walking and over 1,250 metres up and down each day - tough but do-able

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Damien
I walked Oviedo-Lugo in 7 days - each day typically 6-8 hours of walking and some 1,000 metres up and down

You're planning to walk that in 5.5 days (the last 100km is pretty straightforward) so will need 8-10 hours of walking and over 1,250 metres up and down each day - tough but do-able

Tough but doable sounds just perfect.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I think I can and already feel inspired.

Research has shown that only two things work for dieting -- a food log and a support group. If trekking is similar, you have a plan, and the Forum seems to be an effective support group for you. Success seems quite likely!!

 

[peregrina2000]

With inspiration and grit aplenty, adding the training will make a perfect trifecta. I have walked only three of those stages, Oviedo to Cornellana, Fonsagrada to Castroverde, and Santiago to Vilaserio, and I was well into my 60s. Go for it.

I can't remember if you have already been to Finisterre, but you might want to mix it up and go to Muxia instead. Muxia is not as touristy, but in my opinion, the rocky promontory with the church and the waves crashing (as seen in the Way) is just as fitting an ending. And sunsets are spectacular too. You would go Vilaserio to the crazy modern municipal albergue in Dumbria, and then into Muxia.

If you stick with Finisterre and are feeling frisky at the end, and a 20 km day to Olveiroa doesn't cut it, you could always forge ahead to Cee or Corcubión to have more beach time the next day. That number would be well within your range. But since you are a Californian you might not have the same coastal yearning as as we midwesterners do.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Oravasaari]

The Salvadore day 2 of your plan will be a tough one when you up,up, up and over to Pajares, then down, down down the otherside. Your first 2 days is 90km with a respectable mountain range slap bang in the middle! I really enjoyed the Salvador! Take look at my photos from last spring (Logrono, Leon, Oviedo, Melide, SdC) there are some shots of the mountain section of the Salvador in there. Enjoy.

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree that day 2 will be the toughest, and also the most spectacular. If you look at an elevation profile map, though, the actual gains are not that huge. The descents are much worse. From the pass at Pajares, it's a rocky killer, and the descent into Campomanes is also steep and would be tricky in the rain.

If things get too tough, though, there are two great alternatives, the albergue in the town of Pajares, and the 5-star albergue in Bendueños, a little bit off the Camino.

And btw, Damien, I know you typically reserve, and Campomanes is definitely a place to reserve. There is at least one pensión, but I have heard it is frequently booked up with workers during the week. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Looks familiar (so my itineraries are hardcore) ;-)

And doable indeed! I didn't find it hard.

I didn't do the rocky downhill to Campomanes for 2 reason it was raining cats and dogs with thunder (from Pajares) and I couldn't get a gate open so I sticked to the road. It was quite boring walk so if the weather is fine take the rocky downhill if the legs are still fresh. I stayed at the pensíon in Campomanes they were kind enough to machine wash my clothes and dry them over night as I was wet into the bones.

I would recommend to walk to Cee or Corcubión as peregrina2000 says. I stayed in Cee on my walk to Fisterra. If you have been to Fisterra already I do recommend visiting Muxía, lovely town but a little bit harder to get a bus from there, I walked back to SdC instead but that would not fit into your itinerary.

 

[peregrina2000]

Good point that Beatrice made about public transportation back to Santiago from Muxia. There is at least one bus a day, and I think it is in the early morning, so you would have most of a day in Santiago if that matters. Last year when I was there, there was a bus strike, so four of us got a taxi and it was very reasonable and very fast. I think about 15 each.

 

[Rich1]

Good point that Beatrice made about public transportation back to Santiago from Muxia. There is at least one bus a day, and I think it is in the early morning, so you would have most of a day in Santiago if that matters.

From recent memory, there are 2 buses/day from Muxia, leaving at around 06.45 and 14.30.
We walked to Finisterre then Muxia - finishing our Camino in Muxia was simply wonderful and felt like the right place to stop.

 

[domigee]

Good point that Beatrice made about public transportation back to Santiago from Muxia. There is at least one bus a day, and I think it is in the early morning, so you would have most of a day in Santiago if that matters. Last year when I was there, there was a bus strike, so four of us got a taxi and it was very reasonable and very fast. I think about 15 each.

From memory, it is at about 6am....or thereabouts.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Yes Beatrice your itineraries are definitely hardcore... I’ve co-opted these for my own purposes! Thank you so much for sharing.

Last time I did the Salvador I went down some hillside in the fog and rain and it was pretty intense, mainly because I couldn’t see anything (including yellow arrows). I ended up on some service trail that paralleled a road below and then just ended. That was probably the hardest day for me in all my Camino experiences...

As far as Fin & Muxia I’ve done both. I think I like the touristy stuff better! That can be a “gametime” call.

Thanks Laurie for your advice to book in advance. Yes that is my preferred course of action and will do so.

Again, so nice to be hearing from you all again.

Damien

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Now, one thing I learned from last time doing this trek is I am definitely not staying at the usual alburgue in Oviedo.... the place was fine but that was the first time I was ever placed in the “old man’s room”... which is basically a small room with a collection of older men traveling alone. Think beer bellies, funny smelling ointments, snoring, flatuence, and thorough condemnation when I tried to open a window. Beware the “old man’s room” in any Alburgue. Never going back there.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

More details on the itinerary...

 

[peregrina2000]

Looking at your itinerary reminded me that there is a very very nice relatively new albergue in Vilaserio. There is a municipal, which is in the old school on the way out of town (in bad shape, unless it has gotten some TLC recently), and two privates. I have stayed several times in O Rueiro, which is comfortable, new building, has washing machine. But last year I stayed in the recently opened Casa Vella, a beautiful old stone house turned into albergue with a lot of love. I spent some time with the daughter who helped to get it up and running for her 70-something mom. She told me it had been a totally rejuvenating experience -- from boredom in small town Galicia to a new lease on life opening her many hundreds year old family home to peregrinos. Very comfortable and a lot of charm. Highly recommended. Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. I had the evening meal there, and though it was fine for me, a male peregrino was left hungry. O Rueiro has a bar-restaurant, so maybe the best thing is to split your loyalty and sleep in Casa Vella and eat in O Rueiro.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Looking at your itinerary reminded me that there is a very very nice relatively new albergue in Vilaserio. There is a municipal, which is in the old school on the way out of town (in bad shape, unless it has gotten some TLC recently), and two privates. I have stayed several times in O Rueiro, which is comfortable, new building, has washing machine. But last year I stayed in the recently opened Casa Vella, a beautiful old stone house turned into albergue with a lot of love. I spent some time with the daughter who helped to get it up and running for her 70-something mom. She told me it had been a totally rejuvenating experience -- from boredom in small town Galicia to a new lease on life opening her many hundreds year old family home to peregrinos. Very comfortable and a lot of charm. Highly recommended. Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. I had the evening meal there, and though it was fine for me, a male peregrino was left hungry. O Rueiro has a bar-restaurant, so maybe the best thing is to split your loyalty and sleep in Casa Vella and eat in O Rueiro.

The old school house in Vilaserio has always been a "red badge of courage" for me. I once slept on concrete. I also had a mattress on another occasion. That part of the camino is "gametime" for me so I won't make plans yet, but now I know other alternatives.

Damien

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Laurie - thank you for pointing out my alternatives if I choose to do the fin thing. I am keeping it open at this point as mux is also an alternative. I imagine I may have companions at that point so want to be open. Still tho, that cold cement house in Vilaserio holds some memories.

 

[Via2010]

Hi Damien,

you have planned very tough stages. Most women are not able or not willing to walk these distances. So your planning limits your chance of meeting your love on the camino (instead of running away from her).
Skipping San Salvador would give you additional 3 days on the primitivo and thus more common stages.
3 days for Finisterre or Muxía should be sufficient.

I don't know if you can still Change your bookings. But walking without knowing where you sleep the next night also leaves you with more alternatives if you meet nice people on the camino.

BC
Alexandra

 

[caminka]

when I was in castroverde in 2016, everyone had the same idea to have a shorter day before lugo and the albergue was full to the brim. they didn't accept any extra pilgrims. some got lucky and slept in pension cortes off the central square, some had to take a taxi back to cádabo (which was almost empty). depending on the situation, it may be wise to reserve the pension.

Pensión Residencia Cortés
Rúa da Feira, 15, 27120 Castroverde, Lugo, Španija
2MHF+94 Castroverde, Španija
+34 982 31 21 66

I second laurie's proposal of casa vella albergue in vilaserio. wonderful! although some of my most beloved evening memories are from the municipal.

 

[peregrina2000]

when I was in castroverde in 2016, everyone had the same idea to have a shorter day before lugo and the albergue was full to the brim. they didn't accept any extra pilgrims. some got lucky and slept in pension cortes off the central square, some had to take a taxi back to cádabo (which was almost empty). depending on the situation, it may be wise to reserve the pension.

Pensión Residencia Cortés
Rúa da Feira, 15, 27120 Castroverde, Lugo, Španija
2MHF+94 Castroverde, Španija
+34 982 31 21 66

I second laurie's proposal of casa verde albergue in vilaserio. wonderful! although some of my most beloved evening memories are from the municipal.

What a coincidence that you would post here today, @caminka. Looking at Damien’s calendar in the first post, it looks like he is almost in León and getting ready to go. Damien, if you read this, sending you a big buen camino and lots of wishes that this is a wonderful walk for you. Laurie

 

[caminka]

indeed he started today! buen camino, damien!

shoot, I saw I renamed the casa vella albergue in vilaserio!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

As I read this I am in Buiza, alone in the municipal. Tough, long first day, flat. Buiza, is um, “interesting”. When I arrived at 4:40, after having walked 44km, I called the hospitalera and her first reaction to me was “no don’t stay here, keep walking!” I was like “that’s impossible, I’ve already walked 44k!” She came over and gave me the key. Dead bugs all over the place, and smelled of a decontamination. Blood spots on the floor. I checked the log book and 3 or four people have stayed here over the last week and didn’t indicate a problem so I decided to “risk it” but having the pick of the litter I chose the top bunk.

There is no food here. None. Leftover food in the pantry but vinegar without oil / pasta without sauce. I ended up eating the bread I had, thank god, dipped in chicken broth for dinner. Breakfast will be the last of my fruit.

Do Not Stay Here unless you bring your own supplies for a real meal. Also, there is NO Real Bar so can’t even get a beer. Guides I had read indicated otherwise, otherwise I would have been prepared.

As far as the whole finding love thing that is not why I am here, but would be a welcome side effect.

Laurie / team - are there any other locations I’m staying where I have to make sure I am totally self sufficient?

Excited about the trip, frustrated by Buiza. I should have known when Beatrice said it was “ok”...

 

[peregrina2000]

As I read this I am in Buiza, alone in the municipal. Tough, long first day, flat. Buiza, is um, “interesting”. When I arrived at 4:40, after having walked 44km, I called the hospitalera and her first reaction to me was “no don’t stay here, keep walking!” I was like “that’s impossible, I’ve already walked 44k!” She came over and gave me the key. Dead bugs all over the place, and smelled of a decontamination. Blood spots on the floor. I checked the log book and 3 or four people have stayed here over the last week and didn’t indicate a problem so I decided to “risk it” but having the pick of the litter I chose the top bunk.

There is no food here. None. Leftover food in the pantry but vinegar without oil / pasta without sauce. I ended up eating the bread I had, thank god, dipped in chicken broth for dinner. Breakfast will be the last of my fruit.

Do Not Stay Here unless you bring your own supplies for a real meal. Also, there is NO Real Bar so can’t even get a beer. Guides I had read indicated otherwise, otherwise I would have been prepared.

As far as the whole finding love thing that is not why I am here, but would be a welcome side effect.

Laurie / team - are there any other locations I’m staying where I have to make sure I am totally self sufficient?

Excited about the trip, frustrated by Buiza. I should have known when Beatrice said it was “ok”...

I see you are online now, so I'll make this short. You have put Campomanes in as your stage for tomorrow. I would highly recommend the donativo albergue in Bendueños, a km or two off camino but a SPECTACULAR albergue, run by Sandra in the village priest´s house.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen hardcore Camino, Damian!
I hope tomorrow night is less 'interesting.'

 

[Damien Reynolds]

I see you are online now, so I'll make this short. You have put Campomanes in as your stage for tomorrow. I would highly recommend the donativo albergue in Bendueños, a km or two off camino but a SPECTACULAR albergue, run by Sandra in the village priest´s house.

Ok - I might have to do that next time. I have a reso at El Reundo and too late to cancel, though I can eat the cost if the alternative is “spectacular”. I have to admit the idea of a private room above a Restaurant sounds real good right now. What’s special about the place, is it like a Guemes thing (which had a good experience and a fantastic infrastructure)...?

 

[peregrina2000]

As I read this I am in Buiza, alone in the municipal. Tough, long first day, flat. Buiza, is um, “interesting”. When I arrived at 4:40, after having walked 44km, I called the hospitalera and her first reaction to me was “no don’t stay here, keep walking!” I was like “that’s impossible, I’ve already walked 44k!” She came over and gave me the key. Dead bugs all over the place, and smelled of a decontamination. Blood spots on the floor. I checked the log book and 3 or four people have stayed here over the last week and didn’t indicate a problem so I decided to “risk it” but having the pick of the litter I chose the top bunk.

There is no food here. None. Leftover food in the pantry but vinegar without oil / pasta without sauce. I ended up eating the bread I had, thank god, dipped in chicken broth for dinner. Breakfast will be the last of my fruit.

Do Not Stay Here unless you bring your own supplies for a real meal. Also, there is NO Real Bar so can’t even get a beer. Guides I had read indicated otherwise, otherwise I would have been prepared.

As far as the whole finding love thing that is not why I am here, but would be a welcome side effect.

Laurie / team - are there any other locations I’m staying where I have to make sure I am totally self sufficient?

Excited about the trip, frustrated by Buiza. I should have known when Beatrice said it was “ok”...

A few more comments about the rest of your itinerary, but first a hearty buen camino!

Stopping in Bendueños rather than Campomanes will put you in an albergue rather than in a pensión in Campomanes. I don´t know if you reserved a place in Campomanes, I think there is only one pensión left but I could be wrong. But Bendueños is about 5 or so from Campomanes, so that will make your day to Oviedo a few kms longer.

Primitivo stages
Cornellana -- town with all services

Campiello -- small village with two private albergues, a couple of stores

La Mesa -- I don't think there is a store of any kind, but I also think the people running the private albergue do meals. That albergue is new and has gotten good reviews.

Fonsagrada -- plenty of places to eat, shop, etc. EAT PULPO here!

Castroverde -- municipal albergue and private pensión. I just saw somewhere that someone recently arrived and found the albergue and pensión both full, so you might want to call and reserve the pensión. I can get name and phone number if you like.

San Román de Retorta -- this is a place that used to be a livestock market, out in the middle of nowhere more or less. There is a bar-store a km or two earlier, so you can bring stuff up. The municipal albergue is tiny and delightful, the private albergue gets mixed reviews. If you are still standing, I personally think it is far preferable to stay at one of two albergues in Ponte Ferreira. One is an old stone house, lots of charm, serves vegetarian (vegan maybe) meals. The other is A Nave, a newer place in an old metal shed. Kind of a post-modern, hip industrial feel if you know what I mean. Owners serve paella every night. Both places are fabulous.

And since I am scrutinizing your itinerary, I´ll just be nosy and ask -- have you ever walked to Muxia instead of Finisterre? Same number of days, Vilaserio - Dumbría - Muxia, but for many of us, a much nicer vibe. Spectacular setting, less touristy than Finisterre.

Buen camino, Damien

 

[Damien Reynolds]

A few more comments about the rest of your itinerary, but first a hearty buen camino!

Stopping in Bendueños rather than Campomanes will put you in an albergue rather than in a pensión in Campomanes. I don´t know if you reserved a place in Campomanes, I think there is only one pensión left but I could be wrong. But Bendueños is about 5 or so from Campomanes, so that will make your day to Oviedo a few kms longer.

Primitivo stages
Cornellana -- town with all services

Campiello -- small village with two private albergues, a couple of stores

La Mesa -- I don't think there is a store of any kind, but I also think the people running the private albergue do meals. That albergue is new and has gotten good reviews.

Fonsagrada -- plenty of places to eat, shop, etc. EAT PULPO here!

Castroverde -- municipal albergue and private pensión. I just saw somewhere that someone recently arrived and found the albergue and pensión both full, so you might want to call and reserve the pensión. I can get name and phone number if you like.

San Román de Retorta -- this is a place that used to be a livestock market, out in the middle of nowhere more or less. There is a bar-store a km or two earlier, so you can bring stuff up. The municipal albergue is tiny and delightful, the private albergue gets mixed reviews. If you are still standing, I personally think it is far preferable to stay at one of two albergues in Ponte Ferreira. One is an old stone house, lots of charm, serves vegetarian (vegan maybe) meals. The other is A Nave, a newer place in an old metal shed. Kind of a post-modern, hip industrial feel if you know what I mean. Owners serve paella every night. Both places are fabulous.

And since I am scrutinizing your itinerary, I´ll just be nosy and ask -- have you ever walked to Muxia instead of Finisterre? Same number of days, Vilaserio - Dumbría - Muxia, but for many of us, a much nicer vibe. Spectacular setting, less touristy than Finisterre.

Buen camino, Damien

Done both Muxia and Finn.

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok - I might have to do that next time. I have a reso at El Reundo and too late to cancel, though I can eat the cost if the alternative is “spectacular”. I have to admit the idea of a private room above a Restaurant sounds real good right now. What’s special about the place, is it like a Guemes thing (which had a good experience and a fantastic infrastructure)...?

https://www.gronze.com/asturias/benduenos/albergue-peregrinos-santuario-benduenos

more pictures here: https://www.facebook.com/caminodels...que-sería-bueno-reservar-an/1243482302343977/

Sandra is a free spirit, moved to the village with her kids, is a wonderful cook, and reinvests every céntimo she gets back into the albergue. It is small and intimate, not big like Güemes. Very pastoral setting. If you search Bendueños on the forum, you´ll see lots of testimonials.

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok - I might have to do that next time. I have a reso at El Reundo and too late to cancel, though I can eat the cost if the alternative is “spectacular”. I have to admit the idea of a private room above a Restaurant sounds real good right now. What’s special about the place, is it like a Guemes thing (which had a good experience and a fantastic infrastructure)...?

Damien,
Now that I am thinking about your stage tomorrow, I think that Buiza to Campomanes must be the most beautiful single stage of any camino anywhere. You get all the mountains from Buiza to the Puerto de Pajares, and then the gorgeous green tunnels up and down to San miguel and then on to Herías and Campomanes. Hope it was a good day for you. I have walked the Salvador in both the spring and fall, but never in full summer, let us know how it went for you.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Damien,
Now that I am thinking about your stage tomorrow, I think that Buiza to Campomanes must be the most beautiful single stage of any camino anywhere. You get all the mountains from Buiza to the Puerto de Pajares, and then the gorgeous green tunnels up and down to San miguel and then on to Herías and Campomanes. Hope it was a good day for you. I have walked the Salvador in both the spring and fall, but never in full summer, let us know how it went for you.

Day 2 - Buiza to Compamames - 25 Miles -ascent = 4000 feet, descent = 6500 feet. Total time on trail = 13 + hours, temp = 85, humidity = 80+ %.... today was the hardest day of hiking in my life. All trails / all trips. It was up/down ALL Day. It was hot and humid. I ended up drinking 13 liters of water. When I got to the hotel room I took off my clothes and crashed on the floor (for 2 hours). Now I am at dinner rethinking my entire Intinerary.

It was beautiful tho.

I have never not been able to tackle a planned itinerary, but today for just the second time in my life I thought there was a possibility I might die on the trail.

I question the Santa Maria option of the trail. It was so frustrating! Why do you have to go up and down the side of a mountain when you are just trying to get around? Seemed like needless punishment. I bet the original trail is actually the 630, and they created this option so that people can avoid the road, but landowners wouldn’t give whoever was building it license to pass through, hence the crazy up down path weaving through the properties.

Tomorrow is a game time decision. I may just take a rest day, bus to Oviedo and do a standard garden variety Camino Primitivo. Still bad ass, just not not hard core.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Looks familiar (so my itineraries are hardcore) ;-)

And doable indeed! I didn't find it hard.

I didn't do the rocky downhill to Campomanes for 2 reason it was raining cats and dogs with thunder (from Pajares) and I couldn't get a gate open so I sticked to the road. It was quite boring walk so if the weather is fine take the rocky downhill if the legs are still fresh. I stayed at the pensíon in Campomanes they were kind enough to machine wash my clothes and dry them over night as I was wet into the bones.

I would recommend to walk to Cee or Corcubión as peregrina2000 says. I stayed in Cee on my walk to Fisterra. If you have been to Fisterra already I do recommend visiting Muxía, lovely town but a little bit harder to get a bus from there, I walked back to SdC instead but that would not fit into your itinerary.

Omg- I should have done the same thing! Should have stuck to the road because that part is insane if you’ve already walked 26k with tons of vertical. I was seriously thinking you must be superwoman to call it easy. I ended up doing San Miguel and Santa Maria. Bypassed Pajares.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

New plan. No plan. In SDC sept. 14.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

New plan. No plan. In SDC sept. 14.

Where are you now?

Omg- I should have done the same thing! Should have stuck to the road because that part is insane if you’ve already walked 26k with tons of vertical. I was seriously thinking you must be superwoman to call it easy. I ended up doing San Miguel and Santa Maria. Bypassed Pajares.

I didn't say easy, just "not hard" ;-) Well I'm quite bad ass when it come to walking. I think my body is made for waking and having a high tolerance for pain and walking without food makes it easier

 

[Pieces]

no plan sounds like a good plan.

Just read what you wrote above for my BF and he thinks I am insane attempting this, I am beginning to wonder too even if I AM doing it in 5 not 3 days. Maybe I will take your advise and do the road, will I easily know what you are referring to when I get to the spot ?

Also, not to be a party pooper but someone just wrote in my post yesterday that the Primitivo is harder :O

TC out there and keep posting

 

[Damien Reynolds]

no plan sounds like a good plan.

Just read what you wrote above for my BF and he thinks I am insane attempting this, I am beginning to wonder too even if I AM doing it in 5 not 3 days. Maybe I will take your advise and do the road, will I easily know what you are referring to when I get to the spot ?

Also, not to be a party pooper but someone just wrote in my post yesterday that the Primitivo is harder :O

TC out there and keep posting

No no no. You are good. I was trying to do crazy stuff... San Salvador is fine... I did it no problem in 4 days before... it’s just crazy hot right now and I tried to cram it into three days.

I’ve done the primitivo too and all of them are very comfortable as long as you allow the right amount of time.

Bummer, I shouldn’t have said anything about that section because I was attempting to do that section in the same day as coming up from Buiza. NOT NORMAL. Trust me I was the crazy one who didn’t prep right this year and was overcome by the strange (also not normal) heat.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Where are you now?

I didn't say easy, just "not hard" ;-) Well I'm quite bad ass when it come to walking. I think my body is made for waking and having a high tolerance for pain and walking without food makes it easier

I’m in Oviedo. Gonna do a standard Camino Primitivo... I bailed to the train today about 20km in because I wanted to reset and my trekking pole snapped in half. The Camino was telling me... “don’t risk injury without your poles. Go to Oviedo and enjoy the afternoon.” I’m outside an “ecolaundry” waiting for clothes.

I told my Facebook friends how I copied your itinerary and that I should have known better because you are probably 5’11”, 140 lbs. with legs that go up to your armpits. On the JMT I met a Scottish girl like that and she kicked my a**.

 

[Pieces]

Thanks damien, it is good to hear that it is possible provided I do not have a melt down and decide to go for 3 days

Also assuming that being 5'9" with long legs will still give me an edge.

Having to do a last minute shoe swap would you say GTX is a must? was planning to use non GTX but as I am changing anyways...

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Having to do a last minute shoe swap would you say GTX is a must? was planning to use non GTX but as I am changing anyways...

Different schools of thought on that one. Mine are GTX, others say that once they are soaked through they are harder to dry out. Not sure it really matters.

 

[peregrina2000]

I’m in Oviedo. Gonna do a standard Camino Primitivo... I bailed to the train today about 20km in because I wanted to reset and my trekking pole snapped in half. The Camino was telling me... “don’t risk injury without your poles. Go to Oviedo and enjoy the afternoon.” I’m outside an “ecolaundry” waiting for clothes.

I told my Facebook friends how I copied your itinerary and that I should have known better because you are probably 5’11”, 140 lbs. with legs that go up to your armpits. On the JMT I met a Scottish girl like that and she kicked my a**.

Happy for you to leave us out of updates on the "silly me" thread, but, Damien, I hope you will feel free to report back on how the rest of the camino is going, stages, walking, and what not.

 

[Pieces]

agree with Lauren, I am so sick with longing to get going that I eat all kinds of info raw, please keep us posted and feel free to include all the recommendations and does and don't you feel like

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Ok. Day 2- Grado to Espina - My GPS reports 29.3 km. I didn’t feel all that well this afternoon so I decided against staying at Bodenaya and instead am staying at Bar Dakar Pension in Espina. (I am afraid I have made the transition to “hoteligrino”) The walk was my favorite so far as peregrino faces started to be familiar and we all started talking. Had great convos with English speaking groups from Germany, Poland, and Ireland. Seems like there is one place to eat dinner (a place called Vino or something like that). The toughest part of this day is leaving Salas to Espina (the very end) which was a steady but not overwhelming ascent. Dakar is what you’d expect for about 23 Euro. But I have a private room with a bathroom. The mujer of the House is very friendly. Room is clean. Along the way today I had lunch in Salas, and went to the supermarket and pharmacy in Cornellana. No want for services today. Photos attached are of room at Dakar.

Update: ok so I just checked out the room a little bit and this place “has character”. For example: there is an electric radiator in the room but the only wall jack I can find is in the bathroom. Seems as if there is one plug for the entire room. Not really an issue but weird. Also, I could not figure out how to put the shower handheld back in it’s holder. This place has definitely seen better days, but it’s clean...

 

[Pieces]

ahh yes, I also love it when you start becoming a group with everyone else. I still "hang" with both my previous camino families on facebook

 

[Pelegrin]

[QUOTE=". The mujer of the House is very friendly. Room is clean. Along the way today I had lunch in Salas, and went to the supermarket and pharmacy in Cornellana. No want for services today. Photos attached are of room at Dakar.
[/QUOTE]

Mujer is Spanish and everybody understand of course, but on the Primitivo with the Oviedo and part of Lugo exceptions, the locals say Muyer in Asturias and Muller in Galicia that sound more or less the same.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Day 3 - Espina to Campiello- Nice restful walk. Ended up staying at Casa Herminia which was very clean, had a washer and dryer, and had a complete store and a relatively good Pilgrim’s menu.

Day 4 - Campiello to Berducedo via Hospital Route - walking in the mountains in the rain is always a challenge. Didn’t get to enjoy many views but made relatively good time over the 28.5km my gps recorded. Staying at Casa Marques in a private room that shares 2 bathrooms with 6 other private rooms. The private room has character but the bathroom / shower was nice. They are doing my laundry for only 2 Euro. The alburgue dorm has been reported as “its a bed” with a mas or menos type waving of the hand.

Attached is the one picture I captured on the Hospital Route when the clouds briefly broke.

 

[peregrina2000]

View attachment 46056Day 3 - Espina to Campiello- Nice restful walk. Ended up staying at Casa Herminia which was very clean, had a washer and dryer, and had a complete store and a relatively good Pilgrim’s menu.

Day 4 - Campiello to Berducedo via Hospital Route - walking in the mountains in the rain is always a challenge. Didn’t get to enjoy many views but made relatively good time over the 28.5km my gps recorded. Staying at Casa Marques in a private room that shares 2 bathrooms with 6 other private rooms. The private room has character but the bathroom / shower was nice. They are doing my laundry for only 2 Euro. The alburgue dorm has been reported as “its a bed” with a mas or menos type waving of the hand.

Attached is the one picture I captured on the Hospital Route when the clouds briefly broke.

My knees start to hurt just looking at that picture. Looks like you were just beginning that god-awful slog down to Montefurado. Did you see any life in Montefurado? I have always thought it would be a wonderful place for an albergue, at least for people who like albergues like the one in San Juan de Villapañada (rural, middle of nowhere, peaceful and restful).

Buen camino to you, Damien! Laurie

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Did you see any life in Montefurado?

No life whatsoever.

 

[KinkyOne]

No life whatsoever.

What about that beautiful Spanish lady?

 

[peregrina2000]

What about that beautiful Spanish lady?

Look at this thread https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ng-to-fall-in-love-on-the-camino.37177/page-2

On Tuesday, Damien posted:
Yah I’m done with the play by play. You guys will just have to wait for the recap...

Just pure hard core camino posts from now on.

 

[KinkyOne]

Look at this thread https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ng-to-fall-in-love-on-the-camino.37177/page-2

On Tuesday, Damien posted:
Yah I’m done with the play by play. You guys will just have to wait for the recap...

Just pure hard core camino posts from now on.

How boring

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Thanks damien, it is good to hear that it is possible provided I do not have a melt down and decide to go for 3 days

Also assuming that being 5'9" with long legs will still give me an edge.

Having to do a last minute shoe swap would you say GTX is a must? was planning to use non GTX but as I am changing anyways...

I did it in Teva Tirra sandals so I say no GTX

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I’m in Oviedo. Gonna do a standard Camino Primitivo... I bailed to the train today about 20km in because I wanted to reset and my trekking pole snapped in half. The Camino was telling me... “don’t risk injury without your poles. Go to Oviedo and enjoy the afternoon.” I’m outside an “ecolaundry” waiting for clothes.

I told my Facebook friends how I copied your itinerary and that I should have known better because you are probably 5’11”, 140 lbs. with legs that go up to your armpits. On the JMT I met a Scottish girl like that and she kicked my a**.

No just 5’57” 140 lbs. Long legs yes but I’m also half Finnish and have a lot of sisu ;-)

 

[spursfan]

No just 5’57” 140 lbs. Long legs yes but I’m also half Finnish and have a lot of sisu ;-)

That explains it all - 5'57" is really 5 feet plus 4 feet and 9 inches to give a total height of 9 feet and 9 inches!
Forget trail walking have you thought about basketball?

 

[KinkyOne]

That explains it all - 5'57" is really 5 feet plus 4 feet and 9 inches to give a total height of 9 feet and 9 inches!
Forget trail walking have you thought about basketball?

Those Viking women

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

That explains it all - 5'57" is really 5 feet plus 4 feet and 9 inches to give a total height of 9 feet and 9 inches!
Forget trail walking have you thought about basketball?

Haha I really tried to use your stupid stupid way of measuring things. 170 cm so much easier