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Have You Walked GR653 from Borce to The Col du Somport?

2020 Camino Guides

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
I’m in Borce tonight and need to decide if I should walk to the Somport Pass or take the bus. The last two days walking have included some ( too many) spots along the edges of the foothills, with some erosion & steep drops to the valley below, which had me quite frightened. I would like to walk tomorrow, but only if it’s going to feel safe. I’m a bit of a scaredy-cat with no love of heights. I have crossed Pyrenees into Roncesvalles ( not scary) and walked the San Salvador ( a little scary for me, but I did it). Hoping that someone can remember the route and give advice.
 

biarritzdon

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF11, CF12, CP13, CF14, CA15, S.Anton15, CF&CI15
Ditch Pig16, CF&CP17, CdN18, CM18, CF18, LePuy19
I remember the path very well. It was raining constantly and very slippery. There were several trees down across the path and I had to remove my sack and crawl to move forward. I walked into several gated fields where no other pilgrims had preceded me, so I was not sure if I was following grass that was bent over by a stray cow or I was just lucky and still be on the path. I took the bus from Borce to Somport, in the rain that last assent was just looking too nauseating to me.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Thank you for answering, Biarritz Don. I will probably take the bus; my nerves are a bit frazzled.
 

sharon w

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances 2007
Camino Portugues 2009
Via Podiensis, Camino Frances, Camino Finisterre 2012
Cammino di Assisi 2014
Via Podiensis, Camino del Norte, Camino Frances(Astorga to Santiago) 2015
Aussie Camino 2016
On the way up Somport there are streams to cross. If it has been raining these could be quite difficult to walk through.
 

Canuck

Veteran wanderer
Camino(s) past & future
?
I have done it a few years ago in good weather and it was not difficult.
It's on the road for a good part(beware of trucks) and then on a nice path to the Somport Pass.
Your best option is to ask the locals at the hotel in Borce or Bedous and they will tell you the condition of the trail and indicate to you a safe way.
It's a nice stage that shouldn't be missed.
 

Karl Oz

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances
Portuguese
Aragones
Sanabres
Piamonte
Elizabethpfad
I walked from Oloron to Somport last July and thought a very few sections were dangerous, particularly where the path is cut into a cliff-face alongside the river ravine. Unfortunately I cannot remember if this as the section from Borce. It was relatively dry when I did it but I would not do it in the wet, even with the hand-holds provided. The last day to Somport I also found fairly strenuous, as I think it rises 1000m over the 17km journey. It's beautiful but if you are nervous you have the option of the road (maybe not so safe itself), or taking a bus or taxi.
By the way, it's much easier and safer on the Spanish side!
 

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2015); Ch. d'Arles: Oloron Ste Marie to Aragones; Frances (2016); V.d.l.P.; Sanabres (2017)
I stayed at the albergue in Borce on the 16th of September, 2016 and walked through to to the albergue at the top of the Somport Pass on Sept. 17. It had rained much of the time from Oloron Ste Marie to Somport, but I did not find that this made the walk up to the pass particularly difficult. I don't remember that there were any streams blocking the trail. I would hate to have missed it. I walked alone and I was 68 at the time. Buen camino.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Thank you for your reply, Sharon. It has been raining all night.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
I have done it a few years ago in good weather and it was not difficult.
It's on the road for a good part(beware of trucks) and then on a nice path to the Somport Pass.
Your best option is to ask the locals at the hotel in Borce or Bedous and they will tell you the condition of the trail and indicate to you a safe way.
It's a nice stage that shouldn't be missed.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Thank you for the information, Canuck. I tried to get some information yesterday afternoon but surprisingly didn’t find anyone who had walked it. Maybe they were all out walking it.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
I walked from Oloron to Somport last July and thought a very few sections were dangerous, particularly where the path is cut into a cliff-face alongside the river ravine. Unfortunately I cannot remember if this as the section from Borce. It was relatively dry when I did it but I would not do it in the wet, even with the hand-holds provided. The last day to Somport I also found fairly strenuous, as I think it rises 1000m over the 17km journey. It's beautiful but if you are nervous you have the option of the road (maybe not so safe itself), or taking a bus or taxi.
By the way, it's much easier and safer on the Spanish side!
Thank you for responding, Karl Oz. I am still shaken by that dangerous part you mentioned. It was in the last 2km into Sarrance and peppered throughout the day on the stage from Sarrance to Borce.
I still have not decided what I will do today ; it’s 6:49 am and has rained all night.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
I stayed at the albergue in Borce on the 16th of September, 2016 and walked through to to the albergue at the top of the Somport Pass on Sept. 17. It had rained much of the time from Oloron Ste Marie to Somport, but I did not find that this made the walk up to the pass particularly difficult. I don't remember that there were any streams blocking the trail. I would hate to have missed it. I walked alone and I was 68 at the time. Buen camino.
Thank you for telling me about your experience, Alberta Girl. It has been raining from Oloron-Ste-Marie to Sarrance for me as well but we had sun yesterday. I am also walking alone, with which I am quite comfortable except for when the trail becomes ( in my opinion) dangerous.
 

jennysa

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2011,2012 2013,2014, 2015 Aragones 2012, 2017 2018 Via Francigena 2016,2017 Primitivo 2018,2019
I walked it in June last year. It is stunning - not to be missed. Spectacular scenery -BUT you must walk all the way on the road - get an early start. You see nothing if you follow the path. I have now done it twice along the road from Borce - you miss all that wonderful scenery if you take the bus.
 

backpack45scb

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2001 CF, 04-6 LP, 07 Port, 08-10 Arles, 11 Mozá,12-13 Gen-LP. 00-10 PCT, 15 Norte, 16 Primi
in 2010 we took the road rn134 from Urdos and it was a pleasant walk - very little traffic.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Thank you, Jennysa and Backpack45scb. I ended up taking the bus from Et Saut
to Canfranc-Estacion; it was raining slightly and the hills were all enshrouded in mist, so I didn’t feel safe walking. The tourism office in Canfranc-Estacion told me I couldn’t walk over the pass today due to snowfall. I did get to see some of the trail as I walked to Candanchú and back. Some snow on the trail. Met a pilgrim who told me he was not able to cross the Col and had to walk on the road. Perhaps I will get the opportunity to walk this stage another day. Glad that you both enjoyed your time walking in the Pyrenees.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy-SJPDP 2014, VDLP 2014,
Arles-SDC 2015, Lisbon-SDC 2017, Part Ruta de la Lana 2019, VDLP 2019
I’m in Borce tonight and need to decide if I should walk to the Somport Pass or take the bus. ...Hoping that someone can remember the route and
Ness,
You will have walked or bussed over Somport by now. I hope you are safe and well. I walked from Arles in 2015 and found the section Borce-Somport a challenge, even after weeks of walking. I stopped for lunch well after having crossed over the highway and determined that I was lost. As I later found out, the map said 1.5km for a stretch, but it was a typo. It was really 7.5km. I walked back for an hour to a road that I'd seen off to one side in order to thumb a ride. The first car occupants looked at me as if I were mad, but the second car stopped: two cavers shunted stuff off the back seat to make room and dropped me in Canfranc Estación. Later I worked out where I had been, in fact very close to Somport.
I hope you made a good decision for yourself. Yes, the autumn colour was lovely, but it was a difficult section to walk. If I'd known about the bus, I would probably have taken it.

If you are continuing on the Aragones, i highly recommend the albergue at Arres. It was my most memorable night on the Camino.
Bernice
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Thank you , Bernice, for your good wishes and for sharing your experience. I am walking to Jaca today, but will definitely go to the Albergue in Arres that you recommend. I am hoping that I will meet up with a pilgrim or to on my way to Puenta la Reina; I’m a little tired of my own company.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy-SJPDP 2014, VDLP 2014,
Arles-SDC 2015, Lisbon-SDC 2017, Part Ruta de la Lana 2019, VDLP 2019
Thank you , Bernice, for your good wishes and for sharing your experience. I am walking to Jaca today, but will definitely go to the Albergue in Arres that you recommend. I am hoping that I will meet up with a pilgrim or to on my way to Puenta la Reina; I’m a little tired of my own company.
Ness,
Company will be a challenge, especially when you get to the Francés. I recall someone saying that at the albergue in Jaca, the heating was on all day, and that it was very pleasant there. I stayed elsewhere and it was freezing. I understand your being rather tired of your own company, but I was heartened to find that it was manageable and that solitude didn't cause me to give up. My next Camino will be alone. All the best. Bernice
 

Karl Oz

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances
Portuguese
Aragones
Sanabres
Piamonte
Elizabethpfad
I can also recommend the albergue at Santa Cilia, particularly if you are planning that gruelling walk up to the monastery after leaving Jaca. The lady that runs it is lovely, and will cook you a great meal.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Caminos Frances (x4), Finisterre, Aragon, Via de la Plata, Portuguese 2011 -2015. Hospitalero 2015
Hi Ness, I also walked from Borce to Somport Pass and it was beautiful but hard and I lost my way at one part but just kept on uphill walking in meadows with no obvious path but used my instinct. I also stayed at Arres and it is a beautiful small stone built village with a small albergue and a communal dinner set outside where you will find great company.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Hi Camino-David. Thanks for answering. Well, I missed the fun of crossing the Col du Somport, but perhaps can try it another time. I will look forward to Arres & the company you mention.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Ness,
Company will be a challenge, especially when you get to the Francés. I recall someone saying that at the albergue in Jaca, the heating was on all day, and that it was very pleasant there. I stayed elsewhere and it was freezing. I understand your being rather tired of your own company, but I was heartened to find that it was manageable and that solitude didn't cause me to give up. My next Camino will be alone. All the best. Bernice
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
There were 2 pilgrims here with me at Jaca and I appreciated their company. Of course, we are all going in different directions today. I am staying at the municipal in Jaca and it is modern, warm, spacious and clean. Couldn’t ask for more.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
I can also recommend the albergue at Santa Cilia, particularly if you are planning that gruelling walk up to the monastery after leaving Jaca. The lady that runs it is lovely, and will cook you a great meal.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Thank you for the advice, Karl Oz. I am thinking about taking the Juan de la Pena route today. Unfortunately was told by Hospitalero that there is no accommodation in Santa Cilia. Though he might have meant no municipal; I only get the gist of what I’m being told. But, just day 2 in Spain. I will improve. I will look out for a private allergy’s in Santa Cilia.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
Thank you for the advice, Karl Oz. I am thinking about taking the Juan de la Pena route today. Unfortunately was told by Hospitalero that there is no accommodation in Santa Cilia. Though he might have meant no municipal; I only get the gist of what I’m being told. But, just day 2 in Spain. I will improve. I will look out for a private allergy’s in Santa Cilia.
 

Ness

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2009),Norte(2010),Portuguese(2011), Via de la Plata(2014), Sanabres(2014), Ingles(2014), Le Puy(2015),Primitivo(2015)
That was supposed to be albergue not allergy’s
 

tinta

Member
Camino(s) past & future
SJPP to Santiago 2016, Le Puy en Velay to SJPP 2018, Santiago to Finisterre, Muxia 2018.
As someone planning to walk The Arles Route in 2020, all this correspondence is invaluable. We are planning to start late April from Arles, so, like all optimistic pilgrims, keeping our hopes high for reasonable weather, especially over Col du Somport. With all your adventures I hope you still had a wonderful journey.
 
Camino(s) past & future
2013 SJPP to Santiago in September
2014 Camino Aragon
GR65.3.3 2015, 16, 17
Del Norte 2018 & 2019
If you are adventurous and fit, here is a route variant (GR65.3.3) From Bedous to Berdun. I am planning to take this route within the next year. If you want more info such as maps and route descriptions, let me know.
 

tinta

Member
Camino(s) past & future
SJPP to Santiago 2016, Le Puy en Velay to SJPP 2018, Santiago to Finisterre, Muxia 2018.
Thanks Sam.That is the route we are planning to follow. Buen camino and keep us posted.
 

O Peracha

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy to Santiago (2014)
Annapurna Base, Nepal (2014)
GR 5 - Holland to Pompey, France (2015)
Lisbon to Finesterre (2016)
i came across this thread when I was researching what to do, yesterday. I agree with the assessment that the last 2.5 km to Sarrance and large sections from Sarrance to Borce were extremely nerve racking if you have a fear of heights. So, here’s what I ended up doing.

I walked from Urdos to Confranc Estación this morning, leaving the gite at 7:05. According to the sign near the end of the town, where trails goes off N134, it should take just under 5 hours. I stayed on the highway. The first km out of Urdos, there is a limited shoulder. The next 4 to 4.5 Kim’s the asphalt shoulder varies from 3 to 5 yds. Most of it is 3 to 4 yds. There is a concrete gutter along the asphalt for most of the way and then also a weed/dirt shoulder. You can really walk in that even if mowed. There were 40 vehicles in the lane of hat I was walking along, half of which were trucks. And by trucks I mean semis. There are a lot of blind curves and anytime I heard a truck I stopped and moved as far from the asphalt as I could. I ended up doing this for all vehicles. Most vehicles moved over, if they could, and/or slowed down. It took 1 hr and 40 minutes to get to the turnoff before the Somport Tunnel. I use GAIAGPS to track my walks and it said that I had gone up 275 meters and walked just over 7 km. I think the distance is inflated and was probably more like 5 to 5.5 km. For 3 of those km the hey was 3 lanes with Spain bound having two lanes. This is good as less to worry about vehicles passing each other behind you. I was very careful and alert but thought this was very manageable.

The next 8 or so km were on the old N134. There is a limited shoulder but you can’t really walk on it. Too much of a slope. Very limited traffic. 15 cars heading toward me and 12 going towards Somport. However, there were 55 bicyclists going down the hill, towards me. I think they took this opportunity of limited cars to fly down. Most were going faster than the cars. Many did not look pleased to see a walker on the road. It took me 2 hrs and 20 minutes to get to the Spanish border at Col du Somport, which included a 15 min break.

40 minutes from the top it got very windy.

On the Spanish side I stayed on the trail. In some places it is really steep. And there are a few short sections that will be challenging for anyone afraid of heights. But they are very short, over in terms of alcouple if minutes per section. Also, if you pull back and look at the overall view it will look scarier than if you focus on where your heading in the next 2/3 steps.

A little long winded but hope this helps anyone planning this route in the future.
 

SabineP

Camino = Empathy + Compassion.
Camino(s) past & future
some and then more. see my signature.
Very grateful to have found this thread.
My plan is to walk from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Somport and then continue on the Aragones this year.
The prospect of facing a ravine or walking close to a cliff fills me with fear.
I do not mind steep climbs but not close to a cliff.
Seems the alternative from Borce to Somport along the mainroad is not safe either.

Some thinking to do....
 

ranthr

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
Very grateful to have found this thread.
My plan is to walk from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Somport and then continue on the Aragones this year.
The prospect of facing a ravine or walking close to a cliff fills me with fear.
I do not mind steep climbs but not close to a cliff.
Seems the alternative from Borce to Somport along the mainroad is not safe either.

Some thinking to do....
I walked from Oleron some years ago after a two weeks walk on GR65. It was middle of May and it had been raining for days. There was a warning about the path, everyone told me I had to take the road some streches, and so I did. The traffic was heavy and I sometimes felt it could be more dangerous than the path. Took the bus through the tunnel the last km up to Somport. From there the onwards the path was great. I had been a bit scared about the arroyos, but there were built some small wooden bridges over those that might have been a problem.
 

ranthr

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
Here are some pictures from the Somport area.
 

Attachments

Vacajoe

Traded in my work boots for hiking ones
Camino(s) past & future
2019 Biarritz-Pamplona-Lourdes
2018 Aragon/Frances/Finis
2018 Operation Sabre
2018 Marin Ramble
There ARE some spots on the trail where you are walking on a narrow path that has a steep drop off. For those with a fear of heights, it can seem quite scary. Generally safe, but not so much if the rain has been steady.
 

Mournes

Active Member
Very grateful to have found this thread.
My plan is to walk from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Somport and then continue on the Aragones this year.
The prospect of facing a ravine or walking close to a cliff fills me with fear.
I do not mind steep climbs but not close to a cliff.
Seems the alternative from Borce to Somport along the mainroad is not safe either.

Some thinking to do....
I walked the Camino Aragones in October last year.It was an easy walk from Oloron St Marie until the last 2.7 Kms before Sarrance
which was along a narrow path with a ravine to the left hand side.The path was badly eroded.I took a tumble and I have to say it was the longest 2.7 Kms I have ever walked.
The next day I walked from Sarrance to Accous it was a beautiful walk apart from the exit from Sarrance which was along a similar path and for this part I had to watch every step.You are advised not to take the main road as it is very dangerous.It rained a lot that night and the following morning.I decided to take the bus directly to the Col du Somport .Thé tumble had knocked my confidence and I had no desire to repeat it.I had walked this way in 2019 without any problems and I crossed the Col on foot.It was a beautiful experience and therefore I had no hesitation taking the bus as I preferred to keep my memory of crossing the Col on a lovely sunny day.
I got off the bus at the Col not at Canfranc Estacion which is further down the valley.It was a steep descent down the valley along the Camino path.
It is a beautiful Camino with very good albergues , particularly at Santa Cilia and Tiebas.The couple who run the Tiebas are very welcoming .I am Irish and at the breakfast table they had left a little note for me in gaeilge wishing me Maidin Mhait which means "Good Morning " A lovely touch.
Burn Camino
 

Mournes

Active Member
I walked the Camino Aragones in October last year.It was an easy walk from Oloron St Marie until the last 2.7 Kms before Sarrance
which was along a narrow path with a ravine to the left hand side.The path was badly eroded.I took a tumble and I have to say it was the longest 2.7 Kms I have ever walked.
The next day I walked from Sarrance to Accous it was a beautiful walk apart from the exit from Sarrance which was along a similar path and for this part I had to watch every step.You are advised not to take the main road as it is very dangerous.It rained a lot that night and the following morning.I decided to take the bus directly to the Col du Somport .Thé tumble had knocked my confidence and I had no desire to repeat it.I had walked this way in 2019 without any problems and I crossed the Col on foot.It was a beautiful experience and therefore I had no hesitation taking the bus as I preferred to keep my memory of crossing the Col on a lovely sunny day.
I got off the bus at the Col not at Canfranc Estacion which is further down the valley.It was a steep descent down the valley along the Camino path.
It is a beautiful Camino with very good albergues , particularly at Santa Cilia and Tiebas.The couple who run the Tiebas are very welcoming .I am Irish and at the breakfast table they had left a little note for me in gaeilge wishing me Maidin Mhait which means "Good Morning " A lovely touch.
Burn Camino
Buen Camino
 

SabineP

Camino = Empathy + Compassion.
Camino(s) past & future
some and then more. see my signature.
There ARE some spots on the trail where you are walking on a narrow path that has a steep drop off. For those with a fear of heights, it can seem quite scary. Generally safe, but not so much if the rain has been steady.

Cheers @Vacajoe for the warning.
I really believe it is safer for me to skip that part.
 

jennysa

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2011,2012 2013,2014, 2015 Aragones 2012, 2017 2018 Via Francigena 2016,2017 Primitivo 2018,2019
I have walked from Lourdes to Somport twice. The first time I followed paths and and second time I went along the road after Borce. It was a breeze and I would do it again. I didn't find it dangerous as there is a wide hard shoulder. I suffer from vertigo and get into a panic if confronted with narrow paths and cliff edges but managed that section after Sarrance the first time. The second time I simply walked along the road and so I avoided that short section. Other than that there are no cliff edges up to Somport. The scenery is far more spectacular from the road as well.
 
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