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LIVE from the Camino Héctor Walks His Way-Week 2

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HBS60

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Time of past OR future Camino
August 2024 (planned)
Since my original thread has gotten so long, maybe I should start another one for this week. Right now it’s 4 AM, awakened by the church bell just a few meters away, first at midnight, then through the night. I saw the moon from my bed so I tried a couple shots. At the moment I don’t have much to say, so here are the pics.

Today I’ll try for Torres Del Rio, will decide when I get to Arcos



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3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Since my original thread has gotten so long, maybe I should start another one for this week. Right now it’s 4 AM, awakened by the church bell just a few meters away, first at midnight, then through the night. I saw the moon from my bed so I tried a couple shots. At the moment I don’t have much to say, so here are the pics.

Today I’ll try for Torres Del Rio, will decide when I get to Arcos
Hector, that second photo seems almost Biblical to me - like a "sign" leading you on looking more like a star than the moon -great composition with church spire underneath
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Since my original thread has gotten so long, maybe I should start another one for this week. Right now it’s 4 AM, awakened by the church bell just a few meters away, first at midnight, then through the night. I saw the moon from my bed so I tried a couple shots. At the moment I don’t have much to say, so here are the pics.

Today I’ll try for Torres Del Rio, will decide when I get to Arcos
Rather beautiful…
 
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Since my original thread has gotten so long, maybe I should start another one for this week. Right now it’s 4 AM, awakened by the church bell just a few meters away, first at midnight, then through the night. I saw the moon from my bed so I tried a couple shots. At the moment I don’t have much to say, so here are the pics.

Today I’ll try for Torres Del Rio, will decide when I get to Arcos
Los Arcos is not much of a place to stay the night, try and push for Torres del Rio there’s a couple of really nice Albergues that do pilgrim meals and a swimming pool and it has a very handy well equipped all sorts shop attached to the Albergue. Keith
 
Los Arcos is not much of a place to stay the night, try and push for Torres del Rio there’s a couple of really nice Albergues that do pilgrim meals and a swimming pool and it has a very handy well equipped all sorts shop attached to the Albergue. Keith


And even more special IMO the gorgeous church.

 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Los Arcos is not much of a place to stay the night, try and push for Torres del Rio there’s a couple of really nice Albergues that do pilgrim meals and a swimming pool and it has a very handy well equipped all sorts shop attached to the Albergue. Keith
Hello @ScouseKeith, I had to stay two nights in Los Arcos because of a chest infection and before leaving was able to visit Santa Maria, and to explore the upstairs as well as viewing the many pasos (see attachments) assembled in the cloisters - it was during Semana Santa. I loved the place.

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Since my original thread has gotten so long, maybe I should start another one for this week. Right now it’s 4 AM, awakened by the church bell just a few meters away, first at midnight, then through the night. I saw the moon from my bed so I tried a couple shots. At the moment I don’t have much to say, so here are the pics.

Today I’ll try for Torres Del Rio, will decide when I get to Arcos



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I slept there! I remember hanging my laundry up in that balcony.
 
Since my original thread has gotten so long, maybe I should start another one for this week. Right now it’s 4 AM, awakened by the church bell just a few meters away, first at midnight, then through the night. I saw the moon from my bed so I tried a couple shots. At the moment I don’t have much to say, so here are the pics.

Today I’ll try for Torres Del Rio, will decide when I get to Arcos



View attachment 176449

View attachment 176450
Lovely pictures! Sorry to hear your sleep was so broken - my recall is roosters being more likely than church bells to be the culprit when I walked:-)
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Day 9 from Villamayor de Monjardín to Torres Del Rio, 12.8 miles.

The terrain was much, much easier, for which I’m grateful. It was freezing in the morning, but walking helped me stay warm. There were a few hills at first, but the landscape flattened as I walked across vast expanses of farmland, eventually turning into a somewhat arid plain with not a soul in sight. I certainly can’t complain of the terrain today. It would have been a perfect walk, but my toes have been bothering me. They don’t have blisters, but the skin is very tender and might be chafing. I’ve tried things I’ve heard about, like Vaseline, taping them, merino wool, a fellow walker gsve me comped, a pharmacist gave me toe sleeves, but nothing is helping much. I might have an ingrown toenail but it’s hard for me to have a good look, so, instead of trying to make it to Logroño tomorrow, I’ll stop at the next town, Viana, where there is a podiatry clinic and see if they can take a look (this town has nothing).

I’m fine as far as energy is concerned, but it was unnerving walking through what feels like semi desert alone (except for the ocasional driver or biker). The dsy was getting decidedly hot but I had water and two so cans. I made it to Torres del Rio and ran into two Basque ladies that got into my Albergue late yesterday, and a small group of young Italians (two men, one lady, the lady and one man spoke Spanish, the other one spoke English) that had met me briefly at the Camino earlier in the day, as well as a friendly man from Zaragoza, with whom I also had a great conversation sitting on a street bench until a colorful local old man started to talk to us about everything under the sun.

It was time for dinner, and the Basque ladies, the Italians, the Zaragoza guy, and me got together for a Pilgrim dinner, which was very substantial with an initial entree (I had the macaroni which was a meal in itself), the main entree which for me was veal steak and potatoes, bread, wine, and dessert (I chose a Basque dessert which name I can’t recall but was similar to crema catalana). We talked about so many things, and it really helped erase the hardships of the day. Sadly, they are all going to Logroño tomorrow and I’ll probably stay at Viana, a town halfway to Logroño, to have my feet checked, and I’ll probably stay there.

The Camino definitely has significant hardships, but it also offers so many experiences that are so worth it. It is testing me to the limit and I hope I’m up for the challenge. This is no easy stroll in the park and I don’t have the assurance that I’ll succeed, but I’m sure there will be lessons in defeat should that happen.

 
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Viana is a nice town. Beautiful church and another ruined church with the roof missing. Viana has a donativo albergue connected to the church and it was our first experience with these kind of albergues. Now we volunteer in one almost every year. It's the kind of albergue where you sleep on the floor on a thin mat, but we had a communal meal with the priest and later he took us through a "secret" passage to the choir loft and tried to teach us some songs. They used to have Pilgrim Mass in Viana. It is a lovely experience if you have the opportunity to attend.

The parroquial albergue is/was closed for renovations, but there are other more comfortable places to stay (without the communal meal I think.)

Best wishes for your feet. Possibly your shoes are too small or tight and causing the irritation?
 
but my toes have been bothering me. They don’t have blisters, but the skin is very tender and might be chafing. I’ve tried things I’ve heard about, like Vaseline, taping them, merino wool, a fellow walker gsve me comped, a pharmacist gave me toe sleeves, but nothing is helping much.
Did you bring hiking sandals for back up footwear? If so, I would wear them and see how your toes do.
 
The 2025 edition of the Lightfoot Guide to the via Podiensis is now available
It is testing me to the limit and I hope I’m up for the challenge.
Well I hope you keep on keeping on because you are my "legs" (mine don't work much anymore) with your great detail of this route that is one in my "virtual tours" on my laptop.

So to "repay" you I make a Windows Background of scenes along your route (from Street View) whenever I feel inspired and this morning you would have taken a right turn just like this pilgrim from 2015. So this image is my background for the day on my laptop (and is free for you or anyone to use).
 

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Once you get settled in Viana today you might enjoy this Viana Postcard Album a series of 10 postcard views c. 1908/1915 posted to the forum by fellow member Renshaw a few years ago.

(Tap on any small pic to see it enlarged.)

You might have seen some of these sites coming into town or will tomorrow as you leave for Logrono.

Happy browsing, stay cool and Buen camino.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Do check out the grave of Cesare Borgia- the son of Pope Alexander VI and for all purposes THE Macchavelian Prince.
Hopefully another "easy " day for you tomorrow
Buen Camino
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Day 10: Torres Del Rio to Viana, 7.1 miles, a short walk as I was hoping to see the town’s podiatrist. It was a cool morning, the air was hazy, and the hills were extremely steep, but thankfully the terrain wasn’t horribly rocky, just annoying in places. The scenery as usual was breathtaking, but I couldn’t savor it as much as I wanted as I needed to keep moving. My foot seemed OK at first, but not surprisingly, started to bother me after a while.

The first highlight of the day was coming across a guitarist busking in a little area in the woods that had picnic tables, convenient for a pilgrim break, and there were a few of them gathered, resting. Although I don’t play guitar, just the piano, I grew up hearing guitar music so I always have a soft spot for it. I’m an advanced amateur pianist and I’ve played works by Albeniz, Granados, de Falla, many of which have been successful transcribed for the guitar. It’s been a while since the guitarist had played these, but he did play some flamenco, and at the end, as I was leaving, played the Romance Anónimo, a piece that brought up a flood of memories and emotions from my youth. It was an emotional experience hearing this IN Spain.

I got to Viana around 11:30 AM, fairly early, filled my water bottle at the fountain, where I met a very friendly Dutch/Australisn older gentleman, and we were both planning to stop the walking for today, and go to the same Albergue. I needed to find the podiatrist, but unfortunately she was on vacation, so I went to the Albergue, where my new friend and I checked in.

While he was taking a nap, I ventured out and found the Pilgrim Oasis, where they offer pilgrims epsom salts foot soaks, so I went ahead. The water was so cold but it had lavender and epsom salts, and you could just sit there as long as desired, with an ukulele nearby, and you could also buy a snack, which I needed.

My new friend was passing by and came in, so then it was the two of us soaking our tired feet. I left him after a while because I needed a shower, then walked around for a while, running into an Italian guy I’ve met by Ciriaqui a few days ago. I went looking for a store to buy soap because I think I left mine behind, but all was closed as it was already 2 PM. I ran into my friend again and we sightseed a little bit, taking pics of each other next to a sign stating that Santiago was 623 Km away. I’m now in my bunk, relaxing, planning what I need to do tomorrow as I make my way to Logroño, leaving Navarra and entering La Rioja.

So, in 10 days, I crossed the Pyrenees and crossed Navarra on foot. I can’t believe I’m actually doing this…

 
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So, in 10 days, I crossed the Pyrenees and crossed Navarra on foot. I can’t believe I’m actually doing this…
Well done! Tomorrow you can celebrate with some pintxos in Logroño, and if you really want to celebrate, there is another local specialty you could try there. 🍷
 
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Day 10: Torres Del Rio to Viana, 7.1 miles, a short walk as I was hoping to see the town’s podiatrist. It was a cool morning, the air was hazy, and the hills were extremely steep, but thankfully the terrain wasn’t horribly rocky, just annoying in places. The scenery as usual was breathtaking, but I couldn’t savor it as much as I wanted as I needed to keep moving. My foot seemed OK at first, but not surprisingly, started to bother me after a while.

The first highlight of the day was coming across a guitarist busking in a little area in the woods that had picnic tables, convenient for a pilgrim break, and there were a few of them gathered, resting. Although I don’t play guitar, just the piano, I grew up hearing guitar music so I always have a soft spot for it. I’m an advanced amateur pianist and I’ve played works by Albeniz, Granados, de Falla, many of which have been successful transcribed for the guitar. It’s been a while since the guitarist had played these, but he did play some flamenco, and at the end, as I was leaving, played the Romance Anónimo, a piece that brought up a flood of memories and emotions from my youth. It was an emotional experience hearing this IN Spain.

I got to Viana around 11:30 AM, fairly early, filled my water bottle at the fountain, where I met a very friendly Dutch/Australisn older gentleman, and we were both planning to stop the walking for today, and go to the same Albergue. I needed to find the podiatrist, but unfortunately she was on vacation, so I went to the Albergue, where my new friend and I checked in.

While he was taking a nap, I ventured out and found the Pilgrim Oasis, where they offer pilgrims epsom salts foot soaks, so I went ahead. The water was so cold but it had lavender and epsom salts, and you could just sit there as long as desired, with an ukulele nearby, and you could also buy a snack, which I needed.

My new friend was passing by and came in, so then it was the two of us soaking our tired feet. I left him after a while because I needed a shower, then walked around for a while, running into an Italian guy I’ve met by Ciriaqui a few days ago. I went looking for a store to buy soap because I think I left mine behind, but all was closed as it was already 2 PM. I ran into my friend again and we sightseed a little bit, taking pics of each other next to a sign stating that Santiago was 623 Km away. I’m now in my bunk, relaxing, planning what I need to do tomorrow as I make my way to Logroño, leaving Navarra and entering La Rioja.

So, in 10 days, I crossed the Pyrenees and crossed Navarra on foot. I can’t believe I’m actually doing this…

Well done HBS60 just keep putting one foot in front of the other. Logrono is a nice place to stay overnight, loads of bars cafes and restaurants and I’ve never stayed in a bad albergue. Keith
 
as I was hoping to see the town’s podiatrist. It was a cool morning, the air was hazy, and the hills were extremely steep, but thankfully the terrain wasn’t horribly rocky, just annoying in places.
YOu are on Camino! The more you will think the terrain is annoying the more annoying it will become. Remember - Camino "Provides". IMHO - its a 2-way street on a One-Way WAY!😌
The scenery as usual was breathtaking, but I couldn’t savor it as much as I wanted as I needed to keep moving. My foot seemed OK at first, but not surprisingly, started to bother me after a while.
AH.... "you needed to keep moving". Yes most of us told you to do that (vs. spending lots of time socializing) but at the same - do not hurry so much that it will cause you some discomfort or worse - an injury. Its a fine line walk you got to....
I got to Viana around 11:30 AM, fairly early, ..
There ya go! Must've felt really nice!
My new friend was passing by and came in, so then it was the two of us soaking our tired feet. I left him after a while because I needed a shower, then walked around for a while, running into an Italian guy I’ve met by Ciriaqui a few days ago. I went looking for a store to buy soap because I think I left mine behind, but all was closed as it was already 2 PM. I ran into my friend again and we sightseed a little bit, taking pics of each other next to a sign stating that Santiago was 623 Km away. I’m now in my bunk, relaxing, planning what I need to do tomorrow as I make my way to Logroño, leaving Navarra and entering La Rioja.
Wait.... so now it YOU who are "leaving people"?! :rolleyes:😁
LOL - I was using bottles of shampoo for everything (washing hair and body and doing laundry) and I cannot tell you how many I left behind; esp. during those first 2 weeks. So... yeah... know the feeling.
Ah. Another short hop. This one is really short! Enjoy your time in Logrono - like everyone said get your fill of tapas and pintxos and make sure you wash all of them down with some nice "Rioja Juice"
So, in 10 days, I crossed the Pyrenees and crossed Navarra on foot. I can’t believe I’m actually doing this…

And as much as you "complained" - you walked 180KM! So you average 18km/day which is a solid distance for the beginning of the Camino. Absolutely AWESOME!!!!

Keep on moving!

Good luck and Buen Camino!
 
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I'm confused.... what are these miles Hector is referring to? I cannot figure out how much he walked... ;)
Well... see buddy - 11.5km - yeah a short stage but seems to be working for you for now (and lets be honest - you DID hoofed it up yesterday!)

YOu are on Camino! The more you will think the terrain is annoying the more annoying it will become. Remember - Camino "Provides". IMHO - its a 2-way street on a One-Way WAY!😌

AH.... "you needed to keep moving". Yes most of us told you to do that (vs. spending lots of time socializing) but at the same - do not hurry so much that it will cause you some discomfort or worse - an injury. Its a fine line walk you got to....

There ya go! Must've felt really nice!

Wait.... so now it YOU who are "leaving people"?! :rolleyes:😁
LOL - I was using bottles of shampoo for everything (washing hair and body and doing laundry) and I cannot tell you how many I left behind; esp. during those first 2 weeks. So... yeah... know the feeling.
Ah. Another short hop. This one is really short! Enjoy your time in Logrono - like everyone said get your fill of tapas and pintxos and make sure you wash all of them down with some nice "Rioja Juice"

And as much as you "complained" - you walked 180KM! So you average 18km/day which is a solid distance for the beginning of the Camino. Absolutely AWESOME!!!!

Keep on moving!

Good luck and Buen Camino!
Just well done🦶🦶🦶🦶🦶🦶🦶
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Viana to Navarrete, 15.3 miles, 24.6 Km.
It wasn’t supposed to be like this.

I left very early, around 6:30 AM, because I wanted to get to Logroño early so I could see somebody about my foot. The sunrise over Viana was spectacular, and my pics can’t make them justice. In a little while, my friend Jim passed me, we conversed for a while but he is much faster than me, so we parted with a great selfie. Since we are both headed to Santiago, we might bump into each other down the road.
I crossed the Navarra-La Rioja border around 9:30 AM, shortly thereafter I was at Logroño, beautiful city, I must say.

At the entrance there was a Pilgrim Information Center, so I asked where I could have my feet examined, they told me to go to the health center (Centro De Salud). So I went there, and inquired if I could be seen as a non EU citizen. The lady wanted my US insurance but I explained it won’t cover me in Spain (it won’t even cover me in the US if I’m not in network). I told her I did have travel insurance but she told me I must call them. I asked how much if I paid cash, she said 38 Euros for the nurse to see me. So I take out my cash, willing to pay, and she said I must go to the bank for something I can’t remember, but all this red tape didn’t make sense to me. It happens that health care is a very hot button issue for me so I left. I was also hungry as I hadn’t had coffee, so I found a bar and had a bocadillo and coffee, which of course helped.

I was unhappy about this whole foot thing, but I decided I would then try to go to Navarrete, and I was upset enough that I figured I could use that anger for fuel. As I was exiting town, I came upon a Farmacia, and decided it’s worth a shot. I was taken care of by a very pleasant Farmacia technician, she was extremely helpful and I was must appreciative. She gave me permission for a selfie and to post it on FB.

I started walking to Navarrete, it’s a most pleasant walk leaving Logroño, a lot of the trail is paved, and there were benches everywhere ideal for resting, a snack, a foot rest. The last part of the walk did turn difficult because of the hills and the heat, but the terrain wasn’t too rocky, it was actually paved in several places. I called ahead and found an albergue that had a bed.

I finally arrived at Navarrete around 3:30 PM. What’s up with these towns that are on top of hills and very steep streets? I checked in, I showered, unpacked and set up my cPAP machine. By that time it was after 5 PM and I figured I would get something to eat.
Everything was dead.

After looking around several streets, someone explained to me that because the holidays were over, a lot of the bars were on vacation. I’ve also heard that some open at 7:30. I did find a little supermercado so I bought a frozen microwave pizza, sodas, an ice cream cone, and a lemon cake for tomorrow’s breakfast. I might venture out later tonight to see if I can find a more substantial meal, but I’m too tired.

I’m not trying to be critical of the local way of life, I’m trying to figure out what’s a pilgrim supposed to do? It’s not just about being inconvenienced, but I’m trying to be mindful of my blood sugar, staying hydrated, as I need to be careful about these things.

Maybe I’ll take a short walk tomorrow. Maybe it will be a better day. Or maybe I’ll be in a better mood…
ETA: I went for a stroll and found a place open, not much of a place but it will do. I’ll probably be in a better mood when I eat…
FB link; https://www.facebook.com/share/RXA4msxQwH7JvNZj/?mibextid=WC7FNe
 
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Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Since you have travel insurance I recommend going to a private clinic. They should take a credit card and give you a statement that you can submit to your travel insurance.
Nájera is a pretty big town, and a pretty short walk from Navarrete, so you should be able to find a clinic there. Perhaps ask at a pharmacy there.
 
Past years in Ventosa, a small village located slightly off the CF path between Navarrete and Nájera, the private Albergue San Saturino named after the local church, was always very comfortable. Perhaps you would enjoy resting there tomorrow.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Update:
Found a place to eat that didn’t seem like much, but I’m stuffed from so much food.
Nothing worse than a tired, thirsty, hungry, and cranky pilgrim with painful feet. Let’s say I’m not at my best under those circumstances. At least for the moment I’m good…
 
Ventosa is indeed a special place, and it takes you away from highway. I remember the beautiful profound words of this as you enter the village long after my Camino.
20231002_080536.JPG
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hector, your story reminds me of my first Camino....my wife who went with me reminded me last night how i wanted to quit....now it is a beautiful memory. I tried to make the Camino fit the way i thought it was supposed to fit and it almost killed me. Stay strong remember you are never alone even when you are walking by yourself.
 
Update:
Found a place to eat that didn’t seem like much, but I’m stuffed from so much food.
Nothing worse than a tired, thirsty, hungry, and cranky pilgrim with painful feet. Let’s say I’m not at my best under those circumstances. At least for the moment I’m good…
Whenever I have stayed in Navarrete I have had trouble finding food. If I was really hungry too early then no place was open. If I wanted to eat later places seemed to close early. Stayed in a hostal once that gronze said had communal dinner, but no, it was low season, so not enough pilgrims for them to make dinner. Stayed in an albergue that had a bar. The bar closed in the evening, who knows why. So if your belly is full, I think you had great success!
 
Past years in Ventosa, a small village located slightly off the CF path between Navarrete and Nájera, the private Albergue San Saturino named after the local church, was always very comfortable. Perhaps you would enjoy resting there tomorrow.
Love that Albergue! Beautiful Zen-likw garden in the back. Very relaxing. Great Hospitalero
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Viana to Navarrete, 15.3 miles, 24.6 Km.
It wasn’t supposed to be like this.
Why not? What WAS it supposed to be like?
Slightly under 25km in 9 hours with all the bench breaks you spoke of and all the extra time spent in Logroño. I'll venture a guess that you are moving at roughly 4kmh rate and with the condition you have - that's some doing!!!!

I left very early, around 6:30 AM, because I wanted to get to Logroño early so I could see somebody about my foot. The sunrise over Viana was spectacular, and my pics can’t make them justice. In a little while, my friend Jim passed me, we conversed for a while but he is much faster than me, so we parted with a great selfie. Since we are both headed to Santiago, we might bump into each other down the road.
I crossed the Navarra-La Rioja border around 9:30 AM, shortly thereafter I was at Logroño, beautiful city, I must say.

At the entrance there was a Pilgrim Information Center, so I asked where I could have my feet examined, they told me to go to the health center (Centro De Salud). So I went there, and inquired if I could be seen as a non EU citizen. The lady wanted my US insurance but I explained it won’t cover me in Spain (it won’t even cover me in the US if I’m not in network). I told her I did have travel insurance but she told me I must call them. I asked how much if I paid cash, she said 38 Euros for the nurse to see me. So I take out my cash, willing to pay, and she said I must go to the bank for something I can’t remember, but all this red tape didn’t make sense to me. It happens that health care is a very hot button issue for me so I left. I was also hungry as I hadn’t had coffee, so I found a bar and had a bocadillo and coffee, which of course helped.
I'm sorry but you have mentioned on one of your original early posts that you speak Spanish. It should be reasonably easy to get your point across and to get further information if something is not clear. Some of us are not that lucky. My Spanish is all about menus del Dia but I had no problem getting medical help with my nasty blisters. I also had no EU insurance but did inquire about CC payment which was accepted.
Please forget about "red tape" - you're in Europe and in Spain to boot - and don't get yourself frustrated... every time I read your posts IMHO you keep on doing it to yourself
Also eating your 1st meal about 4 or even more hours after you started off is not a good idea! With 6:30 start you should cover roughly 8-10km in about 2 hours and whatever town/village happens to be in that vicinity- stop and have yourself a very nice Desayuno numero uno!! Relax while you're at it.

I was unhappy about this whole foot thing, but I decided I would then try to go to Navarrete, and I was upset enough that I figured I could use that anger for fuel.
once more don't get upset and don't use your anger for a fuel. It's a fuel that leads you to a fast burnout. Take your time and cool off! Cooler heads prevail


I finally arrived at Navarrete around 3:30 PM. What’s up with these towns that are on top of hills and very steep streets? I checked in, I showered, unpacked and set up my cPAP machine. By that time it was after 5 PM and I figured I would get something to eat.
Everything was dead.

SO... a short history lesson esp Medieval Military History - the reason the European towns are on the hills is because it makes the enemy harder to attack them going uphill and it makes it easier to defend.
As to 5pm meals - simply forget about it! Again you are in Europe and they do not eat at that time and lots of places will be closed.
Keep that in mind and plan accordingly. Have a numer of smaller meals as you move (also remember the Siesta) and when you get to the Albergue go and lay in bed and relax after your shower and what have you.
Even perhaps take a little nap. Then go out for evening meal. Not sure what you want but most times meals on Camino are simple but good. They don't have to be "special " although quite some times they are.
If need be stock up in Supermercado with some fruit, nuts, snacks, perhaps cook yourself some hardboiled eggs..and this way you'll always have something to tie you over gor the duration

I’m not trying to be critical of the local way of life, I’m trying to figure out what’s a pilgrim supposed to do? It’s not just about being inconvenienced, but I’m trying to be mindful of my blood sugar, staying hydrated, as I need to be careful about these things.
Adapt my friend, adapt. As I mentioned above going for 4+ hours with no food is NOT being mindful of your sugar. You are on the Camino. Camino will teach you lessons about yourself. Some of them you won't like but the sooner you'll recognize them and adapt the better off you'll be . Stop with maybe stop wishing for better days. One day at a time one step at a time...and for the zillionth time you are doing very very well!!!

And...BTW... not sure if you realize it or not but you are All smiles on those FB photos of yours! You are not faking them smiles are you now??? 😊 😉🫠

Hope you take all of the above the way it is sincerely meant a bit of constructive criticism with absolutely no disrespect intended.

Good luck and Buen Camino
 
Also.... seems I missed this little bit - "Nothing worse than a tired, thirsty, hungry, and cranky pilgrim with painful feet."

Why are you thirsty? Do you not carry enough water with you? Drinking is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL to the walking. not drinking enough leads to dehydration, dehydration in turn leads to being tired and clouds your mind sometimes to the point where you cannot think straight! (Trust you me, I know! - if anything those couple of times (and I had a good clip of those) when I neglected my water intake - those were the days when i did something stupid and ultimately I also believe "gave myself" the blisters that became my curse!)
Don't know what you use (I had a 3L bladder... hope nobody starts an argument on what vessels we use that can take this thread into a hijacking territory... and I CPAP you already struggling with the weight you have to carry - so... do another check on what if anything you can ditch\send back home or forward to SdC and\or perhaps consider starting using the baggage transport where practically everything except the CPAP, maybe a spare shirt and pair of socks and your water will be sent to your next albergue! The water is more important than say a toothbrush and shampoo and you don't need to walk with 2-3 shirts and full rain gear if you don't have to....
.... Yes that means that your spontaneity just went out the window because you have to have a point of destination in order for that company to deliver your luggage and AFAIK mose Municipal Albergues do not accept transported luggage but hopefully it may help you with your daily struggles.

Despite everything you've described so far - you are pushing ahead. You are somewhat "stubborn" in that sense (and quite a lot of us are) and resilient (whether you realize it or not). High time you start figuring out how to make this walk (still awful lots of kms to cover before its all over) more easier than "figuring out what's a hungry pilgrims to do at 5pm" because you CAN figure out the former but not the latter...

We all are rooting for you! Every one of us went through some of the same in our time and on our ways! Nothing is new here and everything is doable and adaptable - just "adapt"

Good luck and Buen Camino!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Update:
Found a place to eat that didn’t seem like much, but I’m stuffed from so much food.
Nothing worse than a tired, thirsty, hungry, and cranky pilgrim with painful feet. Let’s say I’m not at my best under those circumstances. At least for the moment I’m good…
I know so much how you feel, for me was cpap machine, sore back and sciatica.
It sounds like you are managing brilliantly.
 
Why not? What WAS it supposed to be like?
Slightly under 25km in 9 hours with all the bench breaks you spoke of and all the extra time spent in Logroño. I'll venture a guess that you are moving at roughly 4kmh rate and with the condition you have - that's some doing!!!!


I'm sorry but you have mentioned on one of your original early posts that you speak Spanish. It should be reasonably easy to get your point across and to get further information if something is not clear. Some of us are not that lucky. My Spanish is all about menus del Dia but I had no problem getting medical help with my nasty blisters. I also had no EU insurance but did inquire about CC payment which was accepted.
Please forget about "red tape" - you're in Europe and in Spain to boot - and don't get yourself frustrated... every time I read your posts IMHO you keep on doing it to yourself
Also eating your 1st meal about 4 or even more hours after you started off is not a good idea! With 6:30 start you should cover roughly 8-10km in about 2 hours and whatever town/village happens to be in that vicinity- stop and have yourself a very nice Desayuno numero uno!! Relax while you're at it.


once more don't get upset and don't use your anger for a fuel. It's a fuel that leads you to a fast burnout. Take your time and cool off! Cooler heads prevail




SO... a short history lesson esp Medieval Military History - the reason the European towns are on the hills is because it makes the enemy harder to attack them going uphill and it makes it easier to defend.
As to 5pm meals - simply forget about it! Again you are in Europe and they do not eat at that time and lots of places will be closed.
Keep that in mind and plan accordingly. Have a numer of smaller meals as you move (also remember the Siesta) and when you get to the Albergue go and lay in bed and relax after your shower and what have you.
Even perhaps take a little nap. Then go out for evening meal. Not sure what you want but most times meals on Camino are simple but good. They don't have to be "special " although quite some times they are.
If need be stock up in Supermercado with some fruit, nuts, snacks, perhaps cook yourself some hardboiled eggs..and this way you'll always have something to tie you over gor the duration


Adapt my friend, adapt. As I mentioned above going for 4+ hours with no food is NOT being mindful of your sugar. You are on the Camino. Camino will teach you lessons about yourself. Some of them you won't like but the sooner you'll recognize them and adapt the better off you'll be . Stop with maybe stop wishing for better days. One day at a time one step at a time...and for the zillionth time you are doing very very well!!!

And...BTW... not sure if you realize it or not but you are All smiles on those FB photos of yours! You are not faking them smiles are you now??? 😊 😉🫠

Hope you take all of the above the way it is sincerely meant a bit of constructive criticism with absolutely no disrespect intended.

Good luck and Buen Camino
Just a gentle reminder to all that, IF I am remembering correctly this pilgrim describes himself as having complex PTSD. One of the most challenging aspects of PTSD is the way it can hijack the nervous system and create more reactivity, more quickly, than would otherwise be expected. AND it then takes longer to calm down. I don’t know if this is an issue in this case but it may well be. And with all that, all is very well!
 
Hope you take all of the above the way it is sincerely meant a bit of constructive criticism with absolutely no disrespect intended.
I appreciate your saying that. It does come across as scolding, (doesn’t mean you were intending to do so), but also you may remember I’ve mentioned before my PTSD, which means I process things differently, and I’m trying to learn how to “grow new wires” in my brain pathways. This makes it harder for me to interact well with others.

Now, for some clarifications:
“It wasn’t supposed to be like this” meant that I was intending to just walk to Logroño, but I got in a huff and walked to Navarrete instead, not knowing I would find everything closed.

Anger can be a great fuel and is not inherently destructive, as it would be if I just stayed put and stewed, or worse, lash out at somebody. Instead I used it to…move. It got me somewhere and I was able to burn off a lot of negative energy.

I speak Spanish, Latin American, not peninsular. I’m not familiar with many of the terms here, nor how things are done in here, like this thing about that bank note. I had no idea what she was talking about. Also, I’m a retired healthcare worker, and I’ve never come across this.

I can’t just walk a few kilometers and stop for a bocadillo or whatever if everything is closed, particularly when locals in one town tell me the fiestas are over, so things are “back to normal” (that’s what I was told) then finding out in the next town that “fiestas are over, so the bars gone on vacation”. I don’t know how I’m supposed to plan for that. I do make a point to have something to eat/drink in my backpack before going on my walk, trying to figure out what won’t spoil in the heat, how much extra weight to carry, and also have what I need. I have zero experience in this so I’m trying to learn.

The history of towns up in hills do they would be harder to attack makes perfect sense, so thanks for that, very interesting!

I hope my responses are not perceived negatively. It can be difficult to communicate well online, so be assured that I know you mean well, and I hope you get that my responses also mean well.

Today, I had a much, much better day, my feet are better and I enjoyed my walk, more on that later.
 
The 2025 edition of the Lightfoot Guide to the via Podiensis is now available
Just a gentle reminder to all that, IF I am remembering correctly this pilgrim describes himself as having complex PTSD. One of the most challenging aspects of PTSD is the way it can hijack the nervous system and create more reactivity, more quickly, than would otherwise be expected. AND it then takes longer to calm down. I don’t know if this is an issue in this case but it may well be. And with all that, all is very well!
Spot on, I just posted a response to another poster, trying to respond as healthily as I can. No offense taken as I recognize the loving intent of the feedback received.
 
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Also.... seems I missed this little bit - "Nothing worse than a tired, thirsty, hungry, and cranky pilgrim with painful feet."

Why are you thirsty? Do you not carry enough water with you? Drinking is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL to the walking. not drinking enough leads to dehydration, dehydration in turn leads to being tired and clouds your mind sometimes to the point where you cannot think straight! (Trust you me, I know! - if anything those couple of times (and I had a good clip of those) when I neglected my water intake - those were the days when i did something stupid and ultimately I also believe "gave myself" the blisters that became my curse!)
Don't know what you use (I had a 3L bladder... hope nobody starts an argument on what vessels we use that can take this thread into a hijacking territory... and I CPAP you already struggling with the weight you have to carry - so... do another check on what if anything you can ditch\send back home or forward to SdC and\or perhaps consider starting using the baggage transport where practically everything except the CPAP, maybe a spare shirt and pair of socks and your water will be sent to your next albergue! The water is more important than say a toothbrush and shampoo and you don't need to walk with 2-3 shirts and full rain gear if you don't have to....
.... Yes that means that your spontaneity just went out the window because you have to have a point of destination in order for that company to deliver your luggage and AFAIK mose Municipal Albergues do not accept transported luggage but hopefully it may help you with your daily struggles.

Despite everything you've described so far - you are pushing ahead. You are somewhat "stubborn" in that sense (and quite a lot of us are) and resilient (whether you realize it or not). High time you start figuring out how to make this walk (still awful lots of kms to cover before its all over) more easier than "figuring out what's a hungry pilgrims to do at 5pm" because you CAN figure out the former but not the latter...

We all are rooting for you! Every one of us went through some of the same in our time and on our ways! Nothing is new here and everything is doable and adaptable - just "adapt"

Good luck and Buen Camino!
I drink at every opportunity I can, top off at the Fuentes when I find them, and I carry Aquarius as a backup even though it adds up to my weight.
Yes, I’m stubborn at times, resilient at times, and not always wise enough to tell the difference.
Thanks for rooting for me.!
 
@HBS60 - none of your responses can be perceived negatively! If anything as I did apologized (or at least tried to clarify) my posts are a bit terse. And yes I totally hate "communicating online" - facial and hand expressions coupled with voice tone do wonders and no meme will ever replace that

I do take into consideration that you have PTSD. I cannot imagine living with one and fully understand that only you and others with the same syndrome know what its like. so, if we understand each other - I believe that my posts above pretty much end with "adapt" suggestions. And IMHO thats the big key. We all must and those of us who walked did "adapt" each in our own way. You have to process the info in your own way but you need to make the adaptation changes simply because not only you are in a different country with different customs etc. you are practically in a "different world". The faster - the better.

And keep on remembering - I wish you only the best and in no way I am picking on you :)❤️☮️
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
I speak Spanish, Latin American, not peninsular. I’m not familiar with many of the terms here, nor how things are done in here, like this thing about that bank note
Bank transfers are apparently a common for of payment in Europe, but practically impossible for us from the US.

Two years ago while recovering from surgery on my broken wrist in Portugal I rented and paid in full an apartment in Porto via VRBO, only to receive a message from the owner that they wanted us to pay the €12 city tax by bank transfer before they would send us the entry instructions.

I tried everything I could think of to satisfy the requirement before the owner finally relented and agreed that we could leave the money in cash on the dining table when we checked out.
 
When my ex walked her CF in March/April this year and many places where closed (as opposed to the times i walked it in May/June) she came up with the

"Seefood rule" - "When i see food, i eat it"

Also when i walked i always carried some pick-me-up in my pack. Something that doesnt spoil in the heat, has lots of calories and, in a best case, tastes good. Cause i get in a fould mood when I'm hungry. (Oreos were a favourite...)
 
Bank transfers are apparently a common form of payment in Europe, but practically impossible for us from the US.
I don't want to prolong this and distract from @HBS60's Live Camino but he should note that in several European countries that I am familiar with, numerous public hospitals do not take cash from patients and they do not take credit cards either. Their finance departments are not equipped for this. That's normal and not unusual for us.

The payments that they receive for their medical services are made either directly by public or semi-public sickness insurance systems (when the patient has a national targeta sanitaria or the EU sickness insurance card EHIC) or they are made by bank transfer by the patient concerned when the patient is privately insured. A foreign tourist without any such card will be treated as a privately insured person.

The Spanish public health system is organised by the regions (Navarra, Rioja and so on). You, @trecile, had already recommended to @HBS60 to go to a private clinic because they are like to take cash or credit card. Should @HBS60 need medical assistance again he can try to go to a private hospital or use a public health service hospital and follow their instructions about payment to the letter - it could mean receiving an invoice many weeks later, not being charged at all or having to go to the nearest bank with cash in hand that the bank will pay into the hospital's bank account.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
@HBS60 - none of your responses can be perceived negatively! If anything as I did apologized (or at least tried to clarify) my posts are a bit terse. And yes I totally hate "communicating online" - facial and hand expressions coupled with voice tone do wonders and no meme will ever replace that

I do take into consideration that you have PTSD. I cannot imagine living with one and fully understand that only you and others with the same syndrome know what its like. so, if we understand each other - I believe that my posts above pretty much end with "adapt" suggestions. And IMHO thats the big key. We all must and those of us who walked did "adapt" each in our own way. You have to process the info in your own way but you need to make the adaptation changes simply because not only you are in a different country with different customs etc. you are practically in a "different world". The faster - the better.

And keep on remembering - I wish you only the best and in no way I am picking on you :)❤️☮️
Completely understood, absolutely no worries, I’m good and no issues with you whatsoever, which in itself is a sign of my progress. In the past an exchange like this would have triggered a lot of angry responses on my part because I was unable to recognize when people were coming from a loving place. These days, I’m better able to recognize it, so even if I did get slightly triggered (in itself a significant improvement from being massively triggered as I would have been in the past), I was able to get past that and stay in the present.

I’ve done a ton of work with my condition, and I also realize that it is hard on those around me. It can be hard to watch someone floundering or struggling, and the urge to help is wonderful but doesn’t always land well. Sometimes it’s about the other person’s discomfort. A paradox that’s been helpful for me is to feel comfortable with the discomfort, mine and that of others. It’s always helpful to inquire along the lines on “how can we help?” Do you know what you need?” “I’m here to support you, how can I best be supportive?”

I do know that I need to be open to criticism and constructive feedback, and that can be challenging, but my healing journey involves this as well.

We are all works in progress!

I’m stepping out to enjoy my evening, will write about my good day later, and get ready for tomorrow. I plan to walk to Santo Domingo De La Calzada, I reserved a private room, and will send my cPAP machine ahead to lighten my load

More later…
 
Completely understood, absolutely no worries, I’m good and no issues with you whatsoever, which in itself is a sign of my progress. In the past an exchange like this would have triggered a lot of angry responses on my part because I was unable to recognize when people were coming from a loving place. These days, I’m better able to recognize it, so even if I did get slightly triggered (in itself a significant improvement from being massively triggered as I would have been in the past), I was able to get past that and stay in the present.

I’ve done a ton of work with my condition, and I also realize that it is hard on those around me. It can be hard to watch someone floundering or struggling, and the urge to help is wonderful but doesn’t always land well. Sometimes it’s about the other person’s discomfort. A paradox that’s been helpful for me is to feel comfortable with the discomfort, mine and that of others. It’s always helpful to inquire along the lines on “how can we help?” Do you know what you need?” “I’m here to support you, how can I best be supportive?”

I do know that I need to be open to criticism and constructive feedback, and that can be challenging, but my healing journey involves this as well.

We are all works in progress!

I’m stepping out to enjoy my evening, will write about my good day later, and get ready for tomorrow. I plan to walk to Santo Domingo De La Calzada, I reserved a private room, and will send my cPAP machine ahead to lighten my load

More later…
Here's an idea. Forget social media and all the "virtual coaching" you appear to be getting. It's sounds like you have already have been through enough and perhaps some of the posts on here are not helping you.
Walk your walk and enjoy the journey
 
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
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A good day today…

Navarrete to Nájera, 10.4 miles, 16.7 Km

I left Navarrete this morning, hoping for a better day today, and it was!

My feet seem to be much better. I planned a short day of walking, just walking to Nájera. As usual, the morning was cool, and I was walking at a steady pace. There was nothing open in the way out of town, so no coffee, croissant or bocadillo, but thankfully I had bought a lemon cake for breakfast for that eventuality. A Coke was my source of caffeine, not what I wanted but Aquarius or juice has no caffeine.

My route took me through an easy gravel pathway next to the highway, and eventually I got to a detour off to Ventosa. I wasn’t planning on stopping there, but it looked close enough that I decided to venture and see if anything was open. To my joy, a bar was open at the entrance to town, so I had my coffee and croissant, and that put me in a good mood. I went to the bathroom (I never pass an opportunity to use one since I never know when I’ll get the chance).

As I was leaving, I heard someone call my name. It was my bunkmate from the night before, a very friendly guy from Valencia, we were the only ones in the 10 bed bunk room the night before. We said cheerfully hello, and I went on my way, since I tend to be slow I try to get a head start.

After leaving Ventosa, I did run into some rough, rocky terrain, mercifully this was brief. Along came an Australian older gentleman, we chatted for a while and he moved on.

I came upon vineyards, rows and rows of grapes, and although small, I couldn’t resist sampling some, they were absolutely delicious.

I tried to take a selfie of me walking by the fields, and along came my bunkmate, who took it for me, then he moved on.

I had deployed my trekking umprella as the sun was getting higher and the day was heating up. Then I came into this curious structure, I heard voices inside, and I found that the Aussie and the bunkmate, so I joined the party. It’s a structure for workers to take a break and for shelter from the elements. The bunkmate and I traded WhatsApp numbers so we could find each other later on.

Eventually we left, as usual I stayed behind, but I was OK with that. I came across a nice Pilgrim Rest Area, with benches and gazebos, so I took a break and snacked on some goodies. Then I came to this donativo cart where you could take whatever you needed for whatever you wanted. I took a frozen treat and left some money, enjoying that this day was so much better than yesterday. My feet feel definitely better, I only feel the normal soreness from a prolonged walk.

Finally I arrived at Nájera. At first it seemed ugly because it wasn’t a nice part of town, but after much walking and crossing the river , I came to a very nice street in the old part of town. My bunkmate found a very nice albergue, and I decided to also stay there. It’s a really nice place, with the Hospitalera being extremely helpful. I showered, took care of laundry, relaxed in a nice parlor room, then crossed the street for a nice slice of tortilla de patatas, bread, and…a 0,0, nonalcoholic beer that was heavenly and hit the spot.

After a brief nap, it was getting later so I went out to find something to eat, I heard my bunkmate call me and we wound up going to the local monastery Santa Maria La Real, just a few blocks away, a very impressive structure loaded with history.

I was famished but my bunkmate just wanted a beer, but he kept me company while I ate, I paid for his beer. I’m now inside while he’s walking and will eat later, as is the Spanish custom.

All in on, a very good day, one of the best ones I’ve had so far.

Tomorrow I plan to walk to Sanyo Domingo de La Calzada, 12.8 miles, 20.7 Km. I decided to reserve a private room to avoid disturbing other bunkmate with the noise involved packing up the cPAP machine, and arranged for the cPAP machine to be delivered, so hopefully it will be an easier walk. I know I could do this every time, but the cost would be prohibitive, so I’ll probs my do this occasionally.

I wish to have more days like this at the Camino, but I know there will be more challenges ahead, so I’ll take a good day when I have one.

Edited to add: another little highlight was a Pilgrim I walked with on the Zubiri-Pamplona stage recognized me. It was such a good moment!

FB link: https://www.facebook.com/share/3bZfHH7te4oG7r1Q/?mibextid=WC7FNe
 
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Awesome!
Re non alcoholic beer... if you can have some alcohol- do try Lemon Serveza or Radler (preferably on tap vs. The bottle) Extremely refreshing at the end if the day beautiful way to unwind.
At SDdC do check out the Cathedral and visit the chicken. Google and read up on The Legend of these chicken- kinda cool stuff.
Hopefully with less weight to carry you'll have another relatively easy day.
Good luck and Buen Camino
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Hector, it seems to me (who does not use fb for personal reasons) these links simply repeat what is here (or vice versa) but there was a post earlier that had the daily route as a line on a map via some "cool app" you are using but I can't find that at fb. I would be most interested in being able to access these to explore your path in more detail so do you have a link please.
 
Hector, it seems to me (who does not use fb for personal reasons) these links simply repeat what is here (or vice versa) but there was a post earlier that had the daily route as a line on a map via some "cool app" you are using but I can't find that at fb. I would be most interested in being able to access these to explore your path in more detail so do you have a link please.
As I know from personal experience, it can be a struggle to pay attention to this sort of request while one is in the midst of an intense and exhausting Camino, as Hector is, so you are asking a lot! Just posting any daily update is hard, let alone finding links on a phone and explaining the app! So I will try to help by answering your questions for him.

Hector uses Facebook to update his friends, most of whom are not forum members. He kindly copies here so forum members like you who do not use Facebook can read his account. However, he uploads the photos and videos only once - to Facebook. His route mapping is done with the app "Relive" and Facebook users can see his daily route as a line on a map.
 
As I know from personal experience, it can be a struggle to pay attention to this sort of request while one is in the midst of an intense and exhausting Camino, as Hector is, so you are asking a lot! Just posting any daily update is hard, let alone finding links on a phone and explaining the app! So I will try to help by answering your questions for him.

Hector uses Facebook to update his friends, most of whom are not forum members. He kindly copies here so forum members like you who do not use Facebook can read his account. However, he uploads the photos and videos only once - to Facebook. His route mapping is done with the app "Relive" and Facebook users can see his daily route as a line on a map.
Correct, the App is Relive, it says so at the end of the map video.
The reason I post my FB links is because it has the pics/ videos, which are a pain to upload to the forum , also I don’t have to do it twice.
 
The 2025 edition of the Lightfoot Guide to the via Podiensis is now available
Awesome!
Re non alcoholic beer... if you can have some alcohol- do try Lemon Serveza or Radler (preferably on tap vs. The bottle) Extremely refreshing at the end if the day beautiful way to unwind.
At SDdC do check out the Cathedral and visit the chicken. Google and read up on The Legend of these chicken- kinda cool stuff.
Hopefully with less weight to carry you'll have another relatively easy day.
Good luck and Buen Camino
My favourite drink only 2% and so cold and refreshing
 
Nájera to Santo Domingo De La Calzada 13.86 miles, 20.7 Km*

*forgot to press “start” on my Relive app until I realized it in Azofra, so I’m quoting the “official” distance, not the distance I actually walked.

Fairly easy walking day, no horribly rocky terrain, just a few hills, some of them daunting but not impossible. It helped that I shipped ahead my cPAP machine, so that made my load lighter. I started my day with a lovely lady from Seville, and we were talking nonstop for kilometers, and that helped me forget that I was walking. We left very early, and witnessed a great sunrise, we took a selfie (posted with her consent) and she took a pic of me with the sunrise in the background. We talked about deep topics, about life, cultures, our countries, heartbreaks, the walk went by quite fast and in what seemed like a blink, we were at Azofra, where a cafe was open and my Australian friend Jim was there, whom I hadn’t seen in days. It was a joyful moment and we hugged, but he went in his way, it was a morale booster, as well as running into a lady I met at SJPDP. I had a great breakfast and the mandatory cafe con leche.

We resumed our walk, but eventually the Sevilluan lady and I weren’t in synch, she told me to go ahead. I went on, and I tried to deploy my umbrella but it had loosened its attachment to the pack straps, so I needed to fumble with it for a while. It was a very sunny morning and I’m glad I got it to work, because I would have been burned to a crisp.

There was a very, very steep hill just before Cirueña, and a makeshift sign encouraged pilgrims that benches and refreshments were right ahead.
So I got to stop, rest, hydrate, and we were caught up, even my Valencian friend showed up.

It was just a few kilometers to Santo Domingo De La Calzada, and soon enough, it was visible in all its glory, seemingly close enough to touch, but it took forever to get there, thankfully on a very smooth, mostly paved trail.

I arrived to town around 12:15 PM, not bad considering I left around 6:20 AM, but it took me a little while to find my Hospedería. It’s a nice hotel-like building, where I got a private room, as I wish to avoid waking up my bunk mates when I pack my cPAP machine.

I got into my room, crashed, then took a shower and went to the main square, just a couple blocks away. I wasn’t all that hungry but I knew I must eat, so I had an amazing meal of Patatas a la Riojana (OMG!!!), albóndigas (meatballs) with fries, ice cream dessert, bread and water (I decline the wine option as a matter of habit).

I went back to my room, feeling like a stuffed animal. You see, I’m not a foodie, I don’t normally enjoy food, I just eat because I’m hungry, not for enjoyment, but today was the rare exception.

I needed to clean my cPAP tubing, which I haven’t since starting as I couldn’t find a suitable place to do so. Today I had a private bathroom, so finally I was able to soak, rinse, and hang to drip dry the tubing, something I normally do once a week and I was overdue.

I took a brief nap, then ventured out again. There were a few businesses open, but I didn’t see any of my friends. Bummer, but then again, I was sluggish from all that food, so I went back to my room and I’m now writing this.

I’m trying to decide how to time my Camino as I want to be at Cruz de Ferro on September 12, extremely important date for me for grieving reasons (not related to the American 9:11). Looking at the Gronze stages, if I was going to follow them strictly, I would have about 5 days to spare, so I could afford to take a few rest days, maybe in Burgos, which is 3 days away according to the stages. I also want to save those rest days in case I need them for unexpected things like illness.

As I digest my food, I’m trying to digest my experiences so far. It’s hard for me to trust people but I hope I can learn to be more open to the kindness of others.

FB link to follow for pics when FB is done uploading them…
Edit: finally, there’s the FB link if you es y to see pics and videos: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/yz6qoLFiJXTFUrDK/?mibextid=WC7FNe
 
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After Burgos a great stop is en el Camino in Boadilla. Depending on your budget, a rest day at the spa in Astorga would fit right in with your plans to arrive at Cruz de Ferro on date certain.
 
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Looking at the Gronze stages, if I was going to follow them strictly, I would have about 5 days to spare,
Simple. Don't follow the Gronze stages. Walk stages that suit you, while keeping some days in reserve in case you need a rest. When you get to Astorga you will be very close to Cruz de Ferro and if you have an extra day at that point you can spend it there.
 
Hector, just came to say how happy I am for you and your accomplishments. You're doing great! (Much faster than I was on the Primitivo ;-)

You're going to experience negative emotions/hours/days. It's is quite normal, even for those wounded a little more lightly by life. And you're learning how to persevere and grow through it.

Ultreia e suseia! Adelante y arriba!
 
Simple. Don't follow the Gronze stages. Walk stages that suit you, while keeping some days in reserve in case you need a rest. When you get to Astorga you will be very close to Cruz de Ferro and if you have an extra day at that point you can spend it there.
I’m only using the Gronze stages to give me an idea of the timing I’ll need. Some days I might follow them, sometimes I won’t. I’m not sure how else I can calculate time/ distance as I fear not walking enough then scrambling trying to catch up. So I might follow Gronze for a while, but as I get closer, I might slow down.if a Gronze stage is too long, I can always break it up.
 
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I’m only using the Gronze stages to give me an idea of the timing I’ll need. Some days I might follow them, sometimes I won’t. I’m not sure how else I can calculate time/ distance as I fear not walking enough then scrambling trying to catch up. So I might follow Gronze for a while, but as I get closer, I might slow down.if a Gronze stage is too long, I can always break it up.
That makes perfect sense.
 
Grat day! Enjoy your time at private gigs and enjoy the food

BTW a warning rather a steep hill before San Juan de Ortega so be prepared. There was a wonderful oasis for Pilgrims on top of tgat hill but sadly it got destroyed.
So take some grub the previous day.
Buen camino
 
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By the time you get to Leon you will be close to Cruz de Ferro and, also, have a good idea of how you want to pace your distances. Fortunately, Leon and Astorga are good places to spend extra time. ( as is Burgos)
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I arrived to town around 12:15 PM, not bad considering I left around 6:20 AM
Well done and yes 20.7 km is spot on what google says meaning that you are now at 82% speed of the "google person" (up from 37% on day 1) and take away some coffee breaks that would be more like 100% it would seem (and now actually passing others as you say) - Congratulations and not a mention of your feet ✌️
 
There was a very, very steep hill just before Cirueña, and a makeshift sign encouraged pilgrims that benches and refreshments were right ahead.
Just 1.8 km past the rest stop you would have gone past this "bloke" in the middle of a roundabout so I made a Windows Background of him pointing the way down the hill to your destination (I cleared away all the roadsigns to make it more dramatic).
 

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BTW a warning rather a steep hill before San Juan de Ortega so be prepared.
Definitely steep but also short. It is down a gulch and then back up the other side. Click the spoiler button if you want to see it but if you want to be surprised, don't.

Click the thumbnail to get a bigger picture. The photo was taken with a mild telephoto so there is a bit of exaggeration.

D11200-VER.jpg
 
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Santo Domingo De La Calzada to Belorado, 14.1 miles, 22.69 Km.

I left very early, around 6:15AM, because I knew it was going to be a long walk and it was going to be hot today. It was still dark, difficult to see the Camino marks, but there were already a few people around so I was able to find the path. It felt humid even though it was cool, the terrain was pretty good. The sunrise greeted me walking along a trail close to the highway, but soon I was walking by sunflower fields. After about 7 Km, I came upon the village of Grañón, which has an albergue famed for their communal meals…and they have a piano, which is very tempting to me, but it was too early to stop my walk. At Grañón there was a little truck with nearby tables, perfect for breakfast, and pilgrims were already gathering, it was nice to say hi to people I knew. After my coffee and croissant, it was time to go. It’s both magical and intimidating to see the Camino getting lost in the horizon, with pilgrims looking like mere specks as they made their way forward.

The sun was up and the day was heating up, so I opened my umbrella. I wonder what it looks like in the distance, as it has an outer silver lining meant to protect against UV rays.

I came into a small town, and while crossing a little plaza, a man greeted me, remarked on my umbrella, and pointed to the building next to him, it was an Ermita and he wanted me to go in to light a candle, get a stamp on my Pilgrim credential, the lady inside gifted me a Rosary. I’m not religious and I would have preferred to decline, but I wanted to be respectful. A friend of his took our picture, so also I got one of us in my phone. I’m not sure what to make of it, or how I handled it, but after all, I’m on a pilgrimage, not a tourist attraction, so I’ll try to be open to whatever I can learn.

The day was getting hotter. I ran into my Valencian friend, who was eating under a tree, then the Seville friend,when I stopped to rest under a tree. On the next town I stopped briefly and had a 0,0 (non-alcoholic beer, very refreshing), and some ice cream.

The last stretch was all along a large highway, protected by the guardrail. There was a stiff head wind, which was somewhat cooling but also very dry. It was a straight, flat stretch for a few kilometers, but all of a sudden, I was at my Albergue, my friend went on to find hers.

Much to my joy, they had a pool, but it was freezing cold, so I enjoyed dipping my feet in the cold water.
I had the pilgrim menu for lunch, consisting of spaghetti for starters, then delicious pork chops as the main dish, and flan for dessert, plus bread and water (I declined the wine option).

I took care of laundry, and now I’m getting settled, trying to decide how far to go tomorrow.

The usual route would have me walking 23.9 Km (14.85 miles) tomorrow to San Juan de Ortega, but the latter part of it involves a steep climb and is empty, something I prefer not to tackle late morning/late afternoon when it’s hot and I’m tired. This will set me behind probably a half day, also I would have to say goodbye to my current friends, but that’s how it goes.

I’m glad I’m doing this challenge, even though it’s been very difficult, so I want to avoid crashing and burning from too much effort. Santiago is still a long way off, who knows what lies ahead. I also realize that SJPDP, Roncesvalles, Zubiri, Pamplona, etc are memories that are now receding, and that I do feel a sense of accomplishment after crossing the Pyrenees, Navarra, and now La Rioja… and I’m not done.

FB post for pics: https://www.facebook.com/share/EWHrKHPbQeq1aKXw/?mibextid=WC7FNe
 
The usual route would have me walking 23.9 Km (14.85 miles) tomorrow to San Juan de Ortega, but the latter part of it involves a steep climb and is empty, something I prefer not to tackle late morning/late afternoon when it’s hot and I’m tired
You can have a short day and stop in Villafranca Montes de Oca. The hotel/albergue San Anton Abad is very nice. Then you can tackle the big hill in the morning.
 
Hector, just came to say how happy I am for you and your accomplishments. You're doing great! (Much faster than I was on the Primitivo ;-)

You're going to experience negative emotions/hours/days. It's is quite normal, even for those wounded a little more lightly by life. And you're learning how to persevere and grow through it.

Ultreia e suseia! Adelante y arriba!
Negative emotions and "curses" will be your commentary before and after Cruz de Ferro. It is an arduous climb up to the highest point on the Camino and a nasty, nasty down hill from there to Molinaseca. Start your climb after a stay in Rabanal the night before and find a mid-point to stop in overnight on the way down like el Acebo, but not in that Holiday Inn sort of place on the way out of town, for sure!
 
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You can have a short day and stop in Villafranca Montes de Oca. The hotel/albergue San Anton Abad is very nice. Then you can tackle the big hill in the morning.
That was my thinking, and it’s done, I reserved there. Thankfully it looks like tomorrow will be much cooler, as will the next day. It’s only about 7 miles (11.7 km) so I will take my cPAP with me and not use the luggage service, which I’ll reserve for the long, hard stages,
 
Negative emotions and "curses" will be your commentary before and after Cruz de Ferro. It is an arduous climb up to the highest point on the Camino and a nasty, nasty down hill from there to Molinaseca. Start your climb after a stay in Rabanal the night before and find a mid-point to stop in overnight on the way down like el Acebo, but not in that Holiday Inn sort of place on the way out of town, for sure!
Thanks! Wouldn’t Foncebadón be a better place to start the day I tackle the Cruz de Ferro? That way I can tackle the nasty descent relatively early, it seems to me.
 
Thanks! Wouldn’t Foncebadón be a better place to start the day I tackle the Cruz de Ferro? That way I can tackle the nasty descent relatively early, it seems to me.
I have never stayed in Foncebadon. IMO, the decent is a two day event and I have been walking the Camino since 2011, when I turned 65.
 
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Santo Domingo De La Calzada to Belorado, 14.1 miles, 22.69 Km.
Spot on agreement with google so that means today you walked at 68% speed of the (non stop) google person so that is indicative that you are doing very well and still no mention of feet!
 
I bet you are staying in Quatro Cantones, no?
Tomorrow morning take a look at the bronze plaques on the main thoroughway they belong to the actors and crew of the movie The Way. You can even afford a late start sine its quite a short hop to VMdO
For couple of days you are averaging over 20km. Very nicely done!!!
Are you still transporting the CPAP or are you back carrying it?
Good luck and Buen Camino
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I bet you are staying in Quatro Cantones, no?
Tomorrow morning take a look at the bronze plaques on the main thoroughway they belong to the actors and crew of the movie The Way. You can even afford a late start sine its quite a short hop to VMdO
For couple of days you are averaging over 20km. Very nicely done!!!
Are you still transporting the CPAP or are you back carrying it?
Good luck and Buen Camino
Actually, no, Cuatro Cantones was full when I called to inquire, so I’m staying at A Santiago, which also has a pool- with ice cold water, I could only dip my feet in it.

Are the bro ze plaques at Cuatro Cantones or elsewhere in town?

I’ve been transporting my cPAP for a couple days because of the distance, but for todays I’ll backpack it because it’s a short distance, also it’s much cooler today, last evening the temp plummeted so heat won’t be an issue.
 
Actually, no, Cuatro Cantones was full when I called to inquire, so I’m staying at A Santiago, which also has a pool- with ice cold water, I could only dip my feet in it.

Are the bro ze plaques at Cuatro Cantones or elsewhere in town?

I’ve been transporting my cPAP for a couple days because of the distance, but for todays I’ll backpack it because it’s a short distance, also it’s much cooler today, last evening the temp plummeted so heat won’t be an issue.
The plaques are right in the middle of main street walking out from the town.
Good luck
 
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