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Help needed with the first stages of Camino Portugues

Milv3

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
none
Hi, we are a a family of 6 adults walking the Camino Portugues in July this year, but have seen so many different routes out of Porto, was hoping someone could help out with the best way to go?
Is the following route do-able:

1.Porto take metro to Villa do Condo to start walking 18km to....
2.Sao Pedro de Rates then 14km to.....
3. Barcellos then either 32 km to Ponte di Lima or 15 km to Balugaes? (or better suggestion?) then 18km to....
4. Sao Pedro du Rubiaes or Cossaurado? then to
5. Valanca


The rest to Santiago is fairly simple ,its the beginning bit I am struggling with, so any help will be appreciated
Thanks
 

andycohn

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF (12-15); Muxia (15); Portuguese, Primitivo (17); Norte, Ingles, VF partial (18), Le Puy (19)
Sounds logical. My only suggetion would be to continue 4 k beyond Balugaes to stay at Casa da Fernanda in Lugar do Corgo. As many, many people have written on this forum, this is one of the most welcoming albergues on any of the caminos. I would suggest calling a day in advance to make a reservation. Fernanda speaks English.
 

biarritzdon

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF11, CF12, CP13, CF14, CA15, S.Anton15, CF&CI15
Ditch Pig16, CF&CP17, CdN18, CM18, CF18, LePuy19
You might consider the coastal route, however in July there could be lots of beach goers competing for lodging but I did it last year during the summer and had no problems. Metro to Vila do Condo and head for the beach, you can eventually tie up with the Interior route in Redondela or Valeneca. It is well marked for the most part and there is beautiful scenery and a ferry ride across the Minho River.
 

jmcarp

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances, 2013
Camino del Norte a Chimayó (USA), 2015
Camino Portugues, 2017
Hi, we are a a family of 6 adults walking the Camino Portugues in July this year, but have seen so many different routes out of Porto, was hoping someone could help out with the best way to go?
Is the following route do-able:

1.Porto take metro to Villa do Condo to start walking 18km to....
2.Sao Pedro de Rates then 14km to.....
3. Barcellos then either 32 km to Ponte di Lima or 15 km to Balugaes? (or better suggestion?) then 18km to....
4. Sao Pedro du Rubiaes or Cossaurado? then to
5. Valanca


The rest to Santiago is fairly simple ,its the beginning bit I am struggling with, so any help will be appreciated
Thanks
I agree with @andycohn regarding Casa Fernanda. It's a wonderful stop and Fernanda provides delicious snacks, plus dinner and breakfast--all donativo of course, but one should donate what you would otherwise spend for the pilgrims' menu elsewhere. However, since she only has 10 beds in her dormitory, with a group of six you may want to reserve earlier than just the day ahead. Her phone number is in the Brierley guidebook, or you can PM me and I'll give it to you. If you're interested, I can also PM the schedule of our May 2017 walk from Porto to Santiago, including our lodging choices.
Bom Caminho...
 

Momonne

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Norte, Primtivo, Portuguese, VDLP
This doensn’t look like the Interior to me. Are you sure you are on the right Camino? You posted on the Interior forum, yet you list stops along the Central.

If the Central is where you want to walk...

Walk from the Catherdral to Vila do Conde along the coast, through Matosinhos.

I used the Brierley guide and rearanged stages in order to stop at Fernanda’s. I know some people love their stay their, but I did not. There is a difference, for me, between hospitality and putting on a show. When you consider that day after day, after day, Fernanda and her husband pull out the guitar, sign the local folklore repertoir and dance the moves that go with it, while their daughter does her homework and puts herself to be on her own, it bothers me. It bothers me because I cannot begin to believe this is genuine, spontaneous hospitality. And I may be wrong, but to me it’s a folklore show put on for the tourists. I also did not like that dynamic because yo feel guilty getting up,from the table to get a good night’s rest. This being said, I hope people give generously in the morning because this family goves a whole lot of itself to do this night after night.
 

jsalt

Jill
Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, LePuy, Rota Vicentina, Norte, Madrid, C2C, Salvador, Primitivo, Aragonés, Inglés
I used the Brierley guide and rearanged stages in order to stop at Fernanda’s. I know some people love their stay their, but I did not. There is a difference, for me, between hospitality and putting on a show. When you consider that day after day, after day, Fernanda and her husband pull out the guitar, sign the local folklore repertoir and dance the moves that go with it, while their daughter does her homework and puts herself to be on her own, it bothers me. It bothers me because I cannot begin to believe this is genuine, spontaneous hospitality. And I may be wrong, but to me it’s a folklore show put on for the tourists. I also did not like that dynamic because yo feel guilty getting up,from the table to get a good night’s rest. This being said, I hope people give generously in the morning because this family goves a whole lot of itself to do this night after night.

I stayed there in 2012, and had the same feeling as you. To make it worse there were some heavy drinkers and people ridiculing me because I wouldn’t sing a song (I can’t sing). It was the worst “party” night on camino that I have ever had. When I mentioned it on the forum I was completely shouted down, so have kept my mouth shut ever since. But most people love it. A lot depends on who else is staying at the same time. It was also the most expensive place for me, because, yes, you feel obliged to donate generously. They also have a couple of private rooms inside the house. They are very good people, and I have great admiration for what they do, but I won’t stay there again.
Jill
 

Jon Hebertson

2 feet and a heartbeat
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Portuguese - Lisbon to SdC September 2017
Finisterre - September/October 2017
Hi, we are a a family of 6 adults walking the Camino Portugues in July this year, but have seen so many different routes out of Porto, was hoping someone could help out with the best way to go?
Is the following route do-able:

1.Porto take metro to Villa do Condo to start walking 18km to....
2.Sao Pedro de Rates then 14km to.....
3. Barcellos then either 32 km to Ponte di Lima or 15 km to Balugaes? (or better suggestion?) then 18km to....
4. Sao Pedro du Rubiaes or Cossaurado? then to
5. Valanca


The rest to Santiago is fairly simple ,its the beginning bit I am struggling with, so any help will be appreciated
Thanks


Hi,

I'm curious. Why take the metro from Porto? There is a great walk along the waterfront to villa do condo

Cheers,
Jon
 

jmcarp

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances, 2013
Camino del Norte a Chimayó (USA), 2015
Camino Portugues, 2017
This doensn’t look like the Interior to me. Are you sure you are on the right Camino? You posted on the Interior forum, yet you list stops along the Central.

If the Central is where you want to walk...

Walk from the Catherdral to Vila do Conde along the coast, through Matosinhos.

I used the Brierley guide and rearanged stages in order to stop at Fernanda’s. I know some people love their stay their, but I did not. There is a difference, for me, between hospitality and putting on a show. When you consider that day after day, after day, Fernanda and her husband pull out the guitar, sign the local folklore repertoir and dance the moves that go with it, while their daughter does her homework and puts herself to be on her own, it bothers me. It bothers me because I cannot begin to believe this is genuine, spontaneous hospitality. And I may be wrong, but to me it’s a folklore show put on for the tourists. I also did not like that dynamic because yo feel guilty getting up,from the table to get a good night’s rest. This being said, I hope people give generously in the morning because this family goves a whole lot of itself to do this night after night.
I guess we missed the show, because when we stayed there in May 2017 the was nothing but good hospitality, good food, and good conversation. All in all, it was probably the best night on that Camino.

On the topic of getting started from Porto, I too recommend the walk down the river and up the beachfront, but it does add another day that some may not have built into their schedule.
 

miriamaok

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
SJPP to SdC Camino Frances (2016)
Coimbra to SdC Camino Portugues (2017)
Camino del Norte (2018)
We couldn’t get into Casa Fernanda. We walked on to Casa de Valinhas which was a lovely treat. It’s about another 1.5km from Casa Fernanda.
 

Momonne

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Norte, Primtivo, Portuguese, VDLP
I stayed there in 2012, and had the same feeling as you.
Too funny, when I saw you had quoted my post I thought you were going to chew my head off for criticising the experience. :D
 

Anamya

Keeping it simple
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2015)
Portugues (2017)
Lebaniego (2019)
Milv3, your stages are very doable, but 32km can be a big push to a lot of walkers (I did it twice in my first camino and regret it :p), so I also suggest the split.

Also, do not stress much with an exact place to stop. In a group of six, so many things can happen and your route may change a lot. It's nice to have a plan, but remember you are free to do any adjustments on the go!
 

Sheena

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
C de F (2015), P.Coastal (2016), CamIngles (2017), Senda Littoral (2018), CP Lisbon - Coimbra (2019)
Hi Milv3.

A group of us are going to walk the Senda Littoral, along the following route -

Day 1. Porto – Matoshinos – 12kms
Day 2. Matoshinos – Vila Cha/Angeiras- 10kms
Day 3. Vila Cha – Povoa de Varzim – 15kms
Day 4. P do V – Estella/Criaz – 15kms
Day 5. Estella – Esposende- 12kms
Day 6. Esposende – O. Castelo do Neiva - 13kms
Day 7. C do N – Viana do Castelo – 12kms
Day 8. V do C – Vila Praia de Ancora – 18kms
Day 9. VP do A – Caminha – 6kms.
Ferry across the river, then walk around the headland to A Guarda.

Our distances might be too short for tyour needs but it might help in your planning.

I would be interested to hear what you decide.
Sheena
 

Rina22

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Arriving in Porto Portugal May 22 2017 to walk the coastal camino.
Hi Milv3.

A group of us are going to walk the Senda Littoral, along the following route -

Day 1. Porto – Matoshinos – 12kms
Day 2. Matoshinos – Vila Cha/Angeiras- 10kms
Day 3. Vila Cha – Povoa de Varzim – 15kms
Day 4. P do V – Estella/Criaz – 15kms
Day 5. Estella – Esposende- 12kms
Day 6. Esposende – O. Castelo do Neiva - 13kms
Day 7. C do N – Viana do Castelo – 12kms
Day 8. V do C – Vila Praia de Ancora – 18kms
Day 9. VP do A – Caminha – 6kms.
Ferry across the river, then walk around the headland to A Guarda.

Our distances might be too short for tyour needs but it might help in your planning.

I would be interested to hear what you decide.
Sheena
I did the Senda de Litoral May/June 2017 and loved the journey. Kept my days relatively short plus started early morning as it was hot and humid for the 3 weeks of my camino. The scenery along the Atlantic coast is gorgeous and food and drink wonderful. Buen Camino
 

Momonne

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Norte, Primtivo, Portuguese, VDLP
We are short on days and some people say the walk out of Porto in not very scenic
Well, perhaps « some people » do not know the Portuguese as well as they think they do. The walk out of Porto is gorgeous, unless you walk through the industrial zone instead of the coast. This is how to go about it:

From the cathedral walk over the iron bridge. Then walk through the 500-1000 meters of touristy port wine tasting places along the river while enjoying stunning views of the city. Walk for 1-2km until passing under the second bridge where there is a small dock where a small boat (8 people max perhaps) shuttles people back and forth all day. Arrive on the other shore, keep the water on your left and arrive in Vila do Conde some 20km later, having walked along the Atlantic, passing a few restaurants every 4-5 km, and small shops and restaurants on your left and a beautiful fishing village.

You can also forgo crossing the Duouro, walking along it from the center of porto along the old trolley track. At the final stop, in Matoshinhos keep the ocean on your left, find the beach and off you go.

You can also take the 500 bus to the Matoshinos or the blue metro to the Mercado stop, climb up the metal walkway, back down, turn left, find the beach, and keep the Atlantic on your left.

Just beautiful, as long as the winds aren’t crazy because otherwise you will walk with blowing sand for a long long time.
 
Last edited:

Sheena

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
C de F (2015), P.Coastal (2016), CamIngles (2017), Senda Littoral (2018), CP Lisbon - Coimbra (2019)
I did the Senda de Litoral May/June 2017 and loved the journey. Kept my days relatively short plus started early morning as it was hot and humid for the 3 weeks of my camino. The scenery along the Atlantic coast is gorgeous and food and drink wonderful. Buen Camino

Thanks Rina.
At about the same time as you were in Portugal last year, we were tackling the Camino Ingles. it was exceptionally hot there too.
Not helped by me being diagnosed with shingles!

We're really looking forward to the Send Littoral this year!
Two years ago we tried to walk the same route but my husband was injured and we had to travel by taxi!

Hopefully this year we won't encounter any problems!
Sheena
 

Sheena

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
C de F (2015), P.Coastal (2016), CamIngles (2017), Senda Littoral (2018), CP Lisbon - Coimbra (2019)
We are short on days and some people say the walk out of Porto in not very scenic

Totally agree with Momonne above.
The walk from Porto to Matoshinos along the river is supposed to be really lovely. That's the route we're taking, along the Porto side of the River Douro.
Sheena
 

Rina22

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Arriving in Porto Portugal May 22 2017 to walk the coastal camino.
Thanks Rina.
At about the same time as you were in Portugal last year, we were tackling the Camino Ingles. it was exceptionally hot there too.
Not helped by me being diagnosed with shingles!

We're really looking forward to the Send Littoral this year!
Two years ago we tried to walk the same route but my husband was injured and we had to travel by taxi!

Hopefully this year we won't encounter any problems!
Sheena
Hi Sheena I did the Camino on my own and was 66 years young and with the support from my husband who had done the Frances Camino in 2014.

I fell the first day leaving Porto ad I approached the riverfront and thought my camino might have been finished. Suffice to say I had to use taxi's from time to time as I also developed nasty blisters on the bottom of my feet due to wearing waterproof Salomon runners. My feet hated walking on the cobblestones and some of the rough and hard surfaces, something that one cant really train for. All of this being said I loved this walk and the food was amazing and would do it again IN a heartbeat. Porto is a fabulous city to explore. I also would like to go back to Esposende and Viana de Castelo. Again enjoy every moment of your journey. All the best.
 

surya8

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portugues Central and Coastal 2017 & 2019; Portugues Interior, Sanabres, Fisterra & Muxia 2018
I took the metro from Porto to Mercado (direction Matosinhos) and walked along the ocean to Vila do Conde/Santa Clara. It's mostly on the wooden walkways, great views and wild beaches the further you go from Porto. The albergue in Santa Clara is brand new, one of the best on the route actually. I took the central way from there to Barcelos. I'd have missed the healing beauty of the ocean if I didn't walk the first day along the beach. And I'd have missed the real Camino spirit if I din't take the central path later. The combo is perfect! You'd miss a great day just skipping to Vila do Conde from Porto.
 

PapaSmurf76

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances Sept 2016
Hi, we are a a family of 6 adults walking the Camino Portugues in July this year, but have seen so many different routes out of Porto, was hoping someone could help out with the best way to go?
Is the following route do-able:

1.Porto take metro to Villa do Condo to start walking 18km to....
2.Sao Pedro de Rates then 14km to.....
3. Barcellos then either 32 km to Ponte di Lima or 15 km to Balugaes? (or better suggestion?) then 18km to....
4. Sao Pedro du Rubiaes or Cossaurado? then to
5. Valanca


The rest to Santiago is fairly simple ,its the beginning bit I am struggling with, so any help will be appreciated
Thanks

As someone said above, why take the metro out of Porto?
The walk along the river and up the coast is very nice. I can understand wanting to skip the industrial section out of Porto onto the Central route, but you can do that by walking up the coast from the Duoro.

Here's a video of us doing it...

We stayed on the Senda and Coastal after that so can't offer you advice on switching over to the Central route. Other than to say almost everyone who stayed in Vila do Conde with us did that.

Bom Caminho
 

lunna

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
frances; lisboa-muxia; norte+bayonne; vdlp; le puy; voie d'arles+aragones; geneva to ales
Hi,

I'm curious. Why take the metro from Porto? There is a great walk along the waterfront to villa do condo

Cheers,
Jon
Agreed. After the tourist trap of Porto the walk along the river was fantastic. I have no idea why the guidebooks recommend the tram out of town.
 

MarkN

Mark
Camino(s) past & future
Leon to Santiago Oct 2016
Porto to Santiago Oct 2017
Porto to Santiago May 2019
If time permits, why not walk from Porto?
I too wrestled with the metro or the walk.
I picked the walk as a last minute decision, worried about my schedule and adding time for a less attractive section but somehow thinking that I'm here to walk so why not. I met a wonderful local at a cafe who had completed a camino six times. I also met and walked with an Italian pilgrim who I parted with just to meet up later and who became a good friend and I met another as well who I walked the rest of the way with. I actually enjoyed the transition from the urban to the rural.
 

Milv3

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
none
Well, perhaps « some people » do not know the Portuguese as well as they think they do. The walk out of Porto is gorgeous, unless you walk through the industrial zone instead of the coast. This is how to go about it:

From the cathedral walk over the iron bridge. Then walk through the 500-1000 meters of touristy port wine tasting places along the river while enjoying stunning views of the city. Walk for 1-2km until passing under the second bridge where there is a small dock where a small boat (8 people max perhaps) shuttles people back and forth all day. Arrive on the other shore, keep the water on your left and arrive in Vila do Conde some 20km later, having walked along the Atlantic, passing a few restaurants every 4-5 km, and small shops and restaurants on your left and a beautiful fishing village.

You can also forgo crossing the Duouro, walking along it from the center of porto along the old trolley track. At the final stop, in Matoshinhos keep the ocean on your left, find the beach and off you go.

You can also take the 500 bus to the Matoshinos or the blue metro to the Mercado stop, climb up the metal walkway, back down, turn left, find the beach, and keep the Atlantic on your left.

Just beautiful, as long as the winds aren’t crazy because otherwise you will walk with blowing sand for a long long time.

Hi Mormonne
Thanks so much for the detailed info, sounds really lolely and we love the coast, so will do that for sure
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I stayed there in 2012, and had the same feeling as you. To make it worse there were some heavy drinkers and people ridiculing me because I wouldn’t sing a song (I can’t sing). It was the worst “party” night on camino that I have ever had. When I mentioned it on the forum I was completely shouted down, so have kept my mouth shut ever since. But most people love it. A lot depends on who else is staying at the same time. It was also the most expensive place for me, because, yes, you feel obliged to donate generously. They also have a couple of private rooms inside the house. They are very good people, and I have great admiration for what they do, but I won’t stay there again.
Jill

Hi, Jill,
Not to derail this post, but I hope we are doing a better job of keeping the growling snarlers at bay when people post opinions that are different from the majority. I have not stayed at Casa Fernanda, but remember getting a lot of criticism years ago when I posted something less than effusive about the albergue Arco Iris on the Norte (now closed, so we can put that one to rest) and Guemes on the Norte. Good reminder to us all that opinions are just that and are not right or wrong. One of the best things about the forum is that we try hard to thread the needle and allow a free exchange of opinions without going off on frenzied rants that may be defamatory. Buen camino, Laurie
 

Robert Long

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances Sept 2016
Camino Portuguse Oct 2018
Thank you all for the great info. Three of us walked the Camino Frances two years ago and had a great time. This year we are being joined by a fourth and will walk the Camino From Porto to Santiago in Sept. We have been to Porto before and I was wondering how to get out of town.
thank you Bob
 

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