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Hi from the Camino Primitivo :)

katdavis

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2013), C2C(2013), Shikoku 88 Temples(2013), Thames Path(2013), Camino Portuguese(2014), Hadrian's Wall(2014), Cinque Terre(2014), Camino Primitivo(2014), Camino Ingles(2014), PCT(2015), Camino Frances (2015)
I left Oviedo yesterday, now on Day 2 and absolutely loving it.

I hope to update my blog daily:
Followingthearrows.wordpress.com

The albergue in San Juan de Villapanada was almost full last night with a wonderful group of people and there's been some stunning views so far :)

Buen Camino,
Kat
 
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¡Buen camino!.

He estado leyendo la presentación del camino que haces en tu blog y, si me permites, voy a hacer un par de correcciones.

En realidad, no atraviesas la Cordillera Cantábrica. Lo que vas a atravesar cuando hagas el Camino Primitivo son la Sierra de Tineo y la Sierra del Rañadoiro (en Asturias), que son sierras prelitorales adyacentes a la cordillera.

Las picos que verás cuando mires al sur, sí que serán de la Cordillera Cantábrica en su mayoría, pero no de Los Picos de Europa. Los Picos de Europa quedan unos cien kilómetros al este de Oviedo. Quizás desde algún alto los puedas ver a lo lejos, pero no confundas Cordillera Cantábrica con Picos de Europa, no es lo mismo.

¡Buen camino!.

I've been reading the presentation the way you do on your blog and if you allow me, I will make a couple of corrections.

Not really go through the Cordillera Cantábrica. You are going to go through when you make the Camino Primitivo are Sierra de Tineo and Sierra del Rañadoiro (Asturias), which are pre-coastal mountain ranges adjacent to the ridge.

The peaks you see when you look south, yes that will be the Cordillera Cantábrica mostly but not the Picos de Europa. The Picos de Europa are about sixty miles east of Oviedo. Perhaps for some the high can see far, but do not confuse with Picos de Europa Cordillera Cantábrica is not the same.


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Disfruta del camino. A ver si tienes suerte y no se cumplen las previsiones de lluvia para la próxima semana.

Enjoy the journey. See if you are lucky and no rain forecast for the next week marks.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Ebrandt,

Thank you for your wonderful Camino Primitivo document that you made!! I'm using yours and the cicerone guide and will try to make notes where possible but yours is definitely more thorough than the cicerone guide!
And the cicerone said today's stage was 24.5km but my Garmin gps clocked 27.7km from San Juan de Villapanada to Bodenaya. I love that you've also included the profile map, this is sooo handy, thank you! :)

Having a wonderful time and it's only day 2, hardly any road walking, stunning views and lovely fellow pilgrims.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Angulero,
Thank you, I will update it with this information, Gracias!
 
Hi Laurie,
I have a little bit of time up my sleeve and love walking :)
Although I'm not enjoying my new shoes so I'll have to see how things go but if I get used to them (or am able to buy a new pair along the way) then I plan to walk the Ingles from Ferrol once I finish this.
Where is your next walk?
 
I'm so jealous. I want to walk the Primitivo next fall.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Thank you for your wonderful Camino Primitivo document that you made!!

This sounds like an interesting Camino Primitivo document any chance you can put a copy on the Forum resources Ebrandt? I would really appreciate a copy to look at I am hoping to do the Primitivo in 2015 all been well.
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
¡Hola!.

La serpiente que te encontraste es una víbora. Son venenosas, aunque es difícil que lleguen a matar, pero su picadura puede dar problemas..
Te cuento algo sobre los hórreos. Los hórreos se utilizaban para guardar los productos cosechados y protegerlos de los roedores ya las piedras sobre las que están apoyados impedían que estos subieran. Además, al estar levantados del suelo, no había humedad en ellos. Verás que muchos ya tienen la parte de abajo cerrada, eso es porque a esos hórreos ya no le dan el uso de antaño. Sobre los osos, puedes estar tranquila, la gran mayoría de ellos están un poco más al sur, en la cordillera. Incluso allí son difíciles de ver, ya que tienen más miedo de nosotros que nosotros de ellos.
Lo que sí que podrás ver si te fijas, sobre todo por la zona de Grandas de Salime, són los restos de unas construcciones que se utilizaban para proteger las colmenas de los ataques de los osos, ya que a éstos les encanta la miel. Son una construcción circular que se llama cortín.

The snake you find is a víbora. They are poisonous, although it is difficult to come to kill, but their bite can cause problems.
I tell you something about hórreos. The hórreos were used to guard and protect harvested crops from rodents and stones on which are supported prevented these go up. Moreover, being raised from the ground, no moisture in them. You will see that many have already closed the bottom, that's because those hórreos no longer give you the use of old. About bears, you can be confident the vast majority of them are a little further south, in the mountains. Even there are difficult to see, because they are more afraid of us than we are of them.
What it does you will see if you look, especially in the area of Grandas will be the remains of some buildings that were used to protect the hives of bear attacks, since they love honey. Those circular construction are called cortín .


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Thank you ebrandt for the link to the guide -- I'm really hoping to do the Primativo next October....

And angulero -- thank you for the extra information. It helps me with my Spanish as well.
 
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Thank you Angulero, I'm hoping to see one of those buildings that protect the bee hives now :)
 
Thank you Angulero, I'm hoping to see one of those buildings that protect the bee hives now :)
If you have not seen one before you reach Grandas de Salime then a rest day and a visit to the Museo Ethnographico (closed Mondays) willl be worthwhile. There is a bee hive wall visible there, actually over the museum's wall and in the next property I think.
 
Hey Kat, hello from San Antonio,Texas. Just been reading your blog and looking at the pics. Asturias is gorgeous, isn't it? And the smell of cows and pasture? I love it. I agree on your assessment of the Merrell shoes. I bought a pair after trying them in the sporting goods store and they seemed incredibly comfortable. After a couple of training hikes here at home I dumped them. Blisters, discomfort, hot spots on my feet, etc. Doesn't men that the shoes are bad it just means that they do not work with my feet. I have had much better luck with Salomon Men's XA Pro 3D Ultra 2 WP Trail Running Shoe. These are comfortable and have worked out great. I hope that you can get a new pair when you get to Lugo as it is no fun walking with painful shoes. Buen camino and keep posting. I look forward to reading your blog. We (family trip) are counting down the days until our own Camino Primitivo next June 2015.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hola Kat, There might just be somewhere to buy new shoes or boots in Tineo. Otherwise there is nowhere probably until Lugo, by which time you will have walked over halfway and may have really sore feet if the shoes have not settled down.
 
Thank you Angulero, I'm hoping to see one of those buildings that protect the bee hives now :)


Creo que bajando de La Mesa hacia Grandas de Salime se ve uno en desuso. Es el de la foto, a ver si lo encuentras. ¿Cuándo haces la etapa de Hospitales?. Para mañana por la tarde dan lluvia. Sin embargo, parece que el domingo, según avance el día, irá mejorando la climatología. La próxima semana se prevé un poco de todo, días de calor y otros de lluvia. En Galicia posiblemente haya más días de lluvia.
Por cierto, si puedes, visita el museo etnográfico de Grandas de Salime.

I believe down La Mesa to Grandas de Salime you can see one in deprecated. It is the photo and see if you find it. When you do step Hospitales?. Tomorrow may rain in the afternoon. However, it seems that Sunday, as the day progresses, the weather will improve. Next week is expected a bit of everything, and other hot days of rain. In Galicia there are possibly more days of rain.
By the way, if you can, visit the ethnographic museum Grandas.




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Os cuento una anécdota sobre los osos y la miel.
Hace ya unos años fui a visitar el bosque de Muniellos, no muy lejos de por donde pasa el Camino Primitivo. Es el mayor robledal de España y uno de los mejor conservados de Europa. Sólo lo pueden visitar veinte personas al día.

A la entrada del bosque aún se conserva un cortín, con la particularidad de que no tenía puerta de entrada. Para entrar y salir lo hacían con una escalera. Para explicarnos lo inteligentes que son los osos, uno de los guardas del bosque nos dijo que por la zona cuentan como hacía muchos años encontraron un oso dentro. La escalera estaba puesta, así que la conclusión a la que llegaron es que el oso estuvo observando cómo entraba la gente al cortín. El oso consiguió poner la escalera y subió por ella hasta lograr entrar al cortín y comer la miel, pero de lo que no se dio cuenta, es que también iba a necesitar la escalera para salir. Esa fue su perdición.

¿Será verdad?.

I tell a story about bears and honey.
Some years ago I visited Muniellos forest, not far from where it passes the Camino Primitivo. It is the largest oak forest in Spain and one of the best preserved in Europe. Only twenty people can visit it daily.

At the entrance of the forest have an cortín is preserved, with the particularity that had no door. Are input and out with a ladder. To explain how smart they are bears, one of the forest rangers told us that the area for many years and have found a bear inside. The ladder was set, so the conclusion reached is that the bear was watching people entered cortín. The bear managed to put the ladder and climbed it to gain entry to cortín and eat honey, but what is not realized is that also going to need a ladder to get out. That was his undoing.

It will be true?
 
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Angulero, the hospitales route is tomorrow so hopefully I will have arrived at the albergue before it starts raining. i love your stories and facts, thank you!
Tia, I passed through the outskirts of Tineo today (camino doesn't go through the centre) so I didn't see any shoe shops, but I don't expect any sympathy as I should have known better! My last 3 pairs of salomon didn't require any "wearing in" so I kinda assumed the same with these shoes! Don't worry, I've definitely learnt my lesson! ;)

Wifi not good enough here in Campiello to post blog with pics but stunningly beautiful views of hills and mountains today from Bodenaya to Campiello. Albergue in next town is full and this one almost so a bit worried about the next stage with limited bed space but a firm believer that the camino always provides so will see what pans out.

Thank you everyone for your helpful and nice comments.

Buen camino.
 
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I left Oviedo yesterday, now on Day 2 and absolutely loving it.

I hope to update my blog daily:
Followingthearrows.wordpress.com

The albergue in San Juan de Villapanada was almost full last night with a wonderful group of people and there's been some stunning views so far :)

Buen Camino,
Kat
Hi Kat, have you perhaps done the route from Sarria to Santiago ? How does the Primitivo from Lugo compare to that ? My son and I are planning walking the last 100 km as a result of time constraints and would like to get an opinion on which one of the two you can recommend to first time walkers.
 
Hi Kat, have you perhaps done the route from Sarria to Santiago ? How does the Primitivo from Lugo compare to that ? My son and I are planning walking the last 100 km as a result of time constraints and would like to get an opinion on which one of the two you can recommend to first time walkers.

I have walked both of these routes, and I would say that there is not a huge difference in terms of difficulty or terrain. The one big difference will be in the number of people and the distances between accommodation and food. Having said that, though, the Camino Primitivo joins with the Camino Frances in Melide, which is typically the second day from Lugo, so after two days, the routes are the same. If you look at the mundicamino website, you can easily compare the two, because there are sections that indicate the elevation profile, the distances between towns, etc.

If you are looking for 100 kms that avoids the crush of the Frances, your two best bets are the Ingles from El Ferrol or the Sanabres from Ourense. The route out of Ourense starts with a stiff ascent, and there is a short steep climb up to Outeiro from Ponte de Ulla, but it's pretty do-able. I have met first time pilgrims who decided to walk from Ourense on the advice of someone in the tourist office in Santiago, and they were very happy to have chosen that route. Good luck with this choice!
 
I'm now in Grandas de Salime, day 3, 4 & 5 are here on my blog but no pics yet, sorry, wifi not strong enough in last 3 towns... Fair enough!

I saw the cortin today on the way and have a couple of pictures. I also went to the ethnographic museum and throughly enjoyed it, thanks for the recommendations.

I've been incredibly lucky with the weather and the views are stunning, I'm dying to add pictures to the blog!!!

Albergues are full which is a bit of a surprise and gastro going through people ahead and behind... I'm all good so far...

Buen camino!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
From your blog: "We saw the ruins of the 3 former pilgrim hospitals and it did make me wonder why the original camino path from 1000 years ago crossed the top of these mountains rather than taking a lower route??"

1000 years ago the lower route was probably almost unpopulated with no easy paths to progress throughout the forests.
Nevertheless, up in the mountains, less vegetation and there should be paths and old channels related to the Roman gold mine A Freita, between Alto de la Marta and Puerto del Palo. So, easier to walk.
 
I'm now in Grandas de Salime, day 3, 4 & 5 are here on my blog but no pics yet, sorry, wifi not strong enough in last 3 towns... Fair enough!

I saw the cortin today on the way and have a couple of pictures. I also went to the ethnographic museum and throughly enjoyed it, thanks for the recommendations.

I've been incredibly lucky with the weather and the views are stunning, I'm dying to add pictures to the blog!!!

Albergues are full which is a bit of a surprise and gastro going through people ahead and behind... I'm all good so far...

Buen camino!

Hi Kat,

Love your blog, brings back happy memories for me! Best of luck to you on your way to Santiago and beyond!
Buen Camino
Aidan:)
 
From your blog: "We saw the ruins of the 3 former pilgrim hospitals and it did make me wonder why the original camino path from 1000 years ago crossed the top of these mountains rather than taking a lower route??"

1000 years ago the lower route was probably almost unpopulated with no easy paths to progress throughout the forests.
Nevertheless, up in the mountains, less vegetation and there should be paths and old channels related to the Roman gold mine A Freita, between Alto de la Marta and Puerto del Palo. So, easier to walk.

Aparte de eso, si te fijas en los perfiles de la etapa, una vez que llegas a Borres, es más fácil subir hasta El Palo desde ahí que bajar a Pola para luego volver a subir. Aunque digan que Hospitales es más duro, posiblemente sea más duro si vas por Pola. La ventaja es que en Pola puedes dormir.

Other than that, if you look at the profiles of the stage, once you get to Borres is easier to climb up El Palo from there go down to Pola and then rose again. Although saying that it is harder Hospitales possibly be harder if you go for Pola. The advantage is that you can sleep in Pola.

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Aparte de eso, si te fijas en los perfiles de la etapa, una vez que llegas a Borres, es más fácil subir hasta El Palo desde ahí que bajar a Pola para luego volver a subir. Aunque digan que Hospitales es más duro, posiblemente sea más duro si vas por Pola. La ventaja es que en Pola puedes dormir.

Other than that, if you look at the profiles of the stage, once you get to Borres is easier to climb up El Palo from there go down to Pola and then rose again. Although saying that it is harder Hospitales possibly be harder if you go for Pola. The advantage is that you can sleep in Pola.

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thanks for this Angulero, I gad planned not to do Hospitales but you have changed my mind.
Sue
 
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Creo que bajando de La Mesa hacia Grandas de Salime se ve uno en desuso. Es el de la foto, a ver si lo encuentras. ¿Cuándo haces la etapa de Hospitales?. Para mañana por la tarde dan lluvia. Sin embargo, parece que el domingo, según avance el día, irá mejorando la climatología. La próxima semana se prevé un poco de todo, días de calor y otros de lluvia. En Galicia posiblemente haya más días de lluvia.
Por cierto, si puedes, visita el museo etnográfico de Grandas de Salime.

I believe down La Mesa to Grandas de Salime you can see one in deprecated. It is the photo and see if you find it. When you do step Hospitales?. Tomorrow may rain in the afternoon. However, it seems that Sunday, as the day progresses, the weather will improve. Next week is expected a bit of everything, and other hot days of rain. In Galicia there are possibly more days of rain.
By the way, if you can, visit the ethnographic museum Grandas.




ScreenHunter_97Oct031729_zps22c17613.jpg

Hi, Angulero,
I was just digging through my pictures to post a picture of the Cortello dos Lobos in Lubian. And it occurred to me that it looks an awful lot like these stone enclosures that are built to keep bears away from the honey. Are these structures different in some way, or could they be used for both purposes?

Here's my not great picture of the wolf catcher in Lubian, they look very similar. Thanks, Laurie

Hola, Angulero,
La foto que tengo del "Cortello dos Lobos" en Lubian se parece mucho a la construcción que pusiste aquí del cortín, y que describes como algo para proteger las abejas de los osos. ¿Hay diferencias entre estas dos construcciones, o son básicamente lo mismo? ¿De qué siglo serán? Gracias, Laurie

wolf catcher in Lubian.jpg
 
No es lo mismo, aunque se parecen. Depende de la zona se llama de diferente forma, por ejemplo, en Asturias se llama chorco, xuercu... No sé muy bien como funcionaba, pero sé que con un cebo, normalmente una oveja, hacían que el lobo entrara dentro y luego lo mataban. En algún sitio vi que una vez dentro, y al verse atrapados, a la oveja ni la tocaban. No sé de cuando serán, pero lo que sí que sé es que no hace tanto tiempo que se utilizaban. Toda la zona del suroccidente de Asturias y las cercanas de Castilla, no hace muchos años estaban muy mal comunicadas. A ver si encuentro unas fotos que vi hace poco de cómo eran los pueblos de la zona. No os vais a creer como vivían hasta no hace mucho.

It's not the same, although they seem. It depends on the area is called differently, eg in Asturias called Chorco, xuercu ... I'm not sure how it worked, but I know with a bait, usually a sheep, made the wolf and then entered into killed. Somewhere I saw that once inside, and when caught, the sheep nor touched. I do not know when they will be, but what I do know is that not so long ago that were used. The whole area of southwestern Asturias and Castilla nearby, not many years ago were poorly communicated. See if I can find some photos I saw recently how were the people of the area. Ye will not believe how they lived until recently.

http://www.turismosanabria.es/cortello


Otra construcción parecida es la corripa. Estas se utilizaban para almacenar las castañas, sin sacar de los erizos, durante el invierno. Se pueden ver en montes donde haya castaños.

Another similar construction is corripa. These were used to store chestnuts, without removing urchins during the winter.
You can see where there chestnut forests.


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I've had a lovely wet welcome to Galicia!

Day 6 & 7 are here, still no photos though, sorry. I'm absolutely loving this camino, the views and scenery are stunning, everyday... Feeling very spoilt.

I'm leaving Castroverde now for Lugo :)
 
Ya encontré las fotos de las que os había hablado. Son de un pueblo llamado Balouta, en la provincia de León, pero muy cerca de los límites de Asturias y Galicia. La primera foto es de hace poco tiempo.

I've found the photos of which I spoke. They are from a town called Balouta in the province of León, but very close to the limits of Asturias and Galicia. The first picture is of recently.

balouta_zpsaed0e229.jpg


Esta segunda foto es de 1914 y os llamará la atención los techos de las viviendas, llamadas pallozas en esa zona y teitos en el resto de León y Asturias. Los techos de las viviendas están hechos de material vegetal.

This second picture is from 1914 and I will call attention to the roofs of houses, called pallozas in that area and teitos in the rest of León and Asturias. The roofs of the houses are made of plant material.


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Pero lo que creo que más os impresionará es esta última foto. Es de 1979, hace nada, y en ella podéis ver como la mayoría de las viviendas aún eran de cubierta vegetal.

But I think what impressed you most is the last photo. It is 1979, does nothing, and you can see it as most of the houses were still in the vegetative cover.

1979_zpse4641424.jpg


A ver si encuentro unas fotos del interior de una palloza que hay en Ibias, lugar de procedencia de mi madre.

See if I can find some pictures of the inside of a palloza is in Ibias, place of origin of my mother.




 
Kat-- you got EXACTLY the boots I have. I have walked the Camino every year since 2011; same boots and I LOVED my Merrells!! this last July tried them with Injinji socks and am sold! Continue to have a Buen Camino! be safe!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Olivares -- I am like you and absolutely love my Merrells -- It just goes to show how different our feet are! But I do think that once you find a shoe that works you have to stick to it! Kat -- I hope you get something that works for you in Lugo -- I'm channelling Salomon's for you!
 
Kat-- it also sounds as if you are developing plantar fasciitis which has little to do with the shoes and much to do with stretching and exhausting your plantar fascia (bottom feet). Deep tisue massage and stretching your plantar fascia muscle has to become a must-do habit for you BEFORE and AFTER every walking day. Check:
. Buen camino!!
 
Thanks Liz & Olivares, I got some new shoes, not the same style or size (it was a desperate panic buy!) so I'll know by the end of tomorrow if they're better or worse ;)

I'm thinking of taking the green arrow route over to Sobrado dos Monxes via Friol tomorrow but I haven't completely decided yet. I don't know anyone else that's going to go that way so I'll prob end up by myself but I'm more worried about getting lost than walking alone...

I'm going to sleep on it and make a decision in the morning. Has anyone taken this route lately and not got lost? :)

Buen Camino.
 
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€60,-
I´ve never taken it, but I do know a couple of others who took it recently and got lost! It added to the adventure, though, that´s one way to think of it. ;)

Whatever you decide, Kat, have a good walk tomorrow. Getting lost wouldn´t be terrible because you won´t be out in the wilderness. There are lots of little hamlets between the two places, I think, so you would eventually find your way. Can´t believe you´re almost done, these caminos sure go fast when we´re sitting at home reading blogs on the computer! buen camino, Laurie
 
kat-- have a good rest. Wishing you much better fit with the new shoes. Love your posts and really appreciate you sharing your Camino. Take care! Buen Camino!
 
kat-- have a good rest. Wishing you much better fit with the new shoes. Love your posts and really appreciate you sharing your Camino. Take care! Buen Camino!

Angulero-- me encantan tus notas. Por favor publica un libro! :)
 
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Good luck with your decision Kat. I'll be anxious to hear of your adventures.

Buen Camino.
 
Thanks Liz & Olivares, I got some new shoes, not the same style or size (it was a desperate panic buy!) so I'll know by the end of tomorrow if they're better or worse ;)

I'm thinking of taking the green arrow route over to Sobrado dos Monxes via Friol tomorrow but I haven't completely decided yet. I don't know anyone else that's going to go that way so I'll prob end up by myself but I'm more worried about getting lost than walking alone...

I'm going to sleep on it and make a decision in the morning. Has anyone taken this route lately and not got lost? :)

Buen Camino.
If you go to Sobrado I want to hear the details. I was wondering whether this would be a good thing to do, how much time it would add if anything, and just whether the green arrows are easy to follow!

I hope the new shoes are an improvement!
 
I would like to say the reason I'm staying in Lugo a 3rd night is because I want to see Buena Vista Social Club play as part of the San Froilan festival tonight but it has more to do with Imodium and needing to be in very close proximity of a toilet :(

I have no idea what it's from but it only started here in Lugo and reminds me of a trip to India years ago. I went to a pharmacy and have the spanish equivalent of Imodium and lots of fluid replacing drinks and am holed up in a new hotel (had to move because the other one is full due to the festival).

Am planning to take the green arrow route to Friol then Sobrado tomorrow but I'll have to see if my bowels agree on walking!

Sorry if this is too much information ;)
 
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Heal quickly! It could be food. It could be water. It could be something from a fellow pilgrim. Buen camino.:):)
 
Ugh -- I am so feeling your situation. I got a 24 hour stomach flu last year when we were walking. Let's just say that I don't remember much about the albergue we stayed in at Ribadiso except that the bathroom was OK! I felt much better the next day but weak as a kitten and it took as long time with lots of stops to get to Arco O Pino. Take care of yourself and don't push too hard until you get your strength back. Sending get well {{vibes}}.
 
I would like to say the reason I'm staying in Lugo a 3rd night is because I want to see Buena Vista Social Club play as part of the San Froilan festival tonight but it has more to do with Imodium and needing to be in very close proximity of a toilet :(

I have no idea what it's from but it only started here in Lugo and reminds me of a trip to India years ago. I went to a pharmacy and have the spanish equivalent of Imodium and lots of fluid replacing drinks and am holed up in a new hotel (had to move because the other one is full due to the festival).

Am planning to take the green arrow route to Friol then Sobrado tomorrow but I'll have to see if my bowels agree on walking!

Sorry if this is too much information ;)

Oh dear I really feel for you - I was in your shoes just a few days ago. I had to stay in Campiello an extra day (far less interesting place than Lugo!) and all in all it took me 5 days instead of 2 to get from Bodenaya to Berducedo. All the time I was walking the Primitivo I found myself wishing that Pilgrim Hospitals still existed!

Wishing you a quick recovery!
 
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I wish you a speedy recovery Kat. I'm sure it is not much fun.
 
@katdavis look after yourself. If you had to take an extra rest day or two Lugo is not a bad place for it to happen.
 
Thank you :)
I'm feeling a lot better now but it did involve a clinic, an ambulance, and a hospital stay, with a diagnosis of bad gastro. After 5 nights in Lugo I'm hoping to be able to walk again today but I'm not sure how far I'll get!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Take good care! Enjoy the walking.... It must feel great to start smelling the flowers (and the mushrooms) again!!
 
Thank you :)
I'm feeling a lot better now but it did involve a clinic, an ambulance, and a hospital stay, with a diagnosis of bad gastro. After 5 nights in Lugo I'm hoping to be able to walk again today but I'm not sure how far I'll get!

Oh my gosh, I am so glad you got help and are back on the mend again. Take it slow.
 
Wishing you good health Kat. When I saw photos from one of our camino family members who decided to go to Sobrado I was a teeny bit jealous that we had gone other other way!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Thank you :)
I'm feeling a lot better now but it did involve a clinic, an ambulance, and a hospital stay, with a diagnosis of bad gastro. After 5 nights in Lugo I'm hoping to be able to walk again today but I'm not sure how far I'll get!
Wow! That was major! Take it slow! Glad you are feeling better.
 
That sounds serious, katdavis. I know of several other pilgrims who recently got some horrible stomach bug on the Primitivo (Isabelle of this forum and two other friends). That seems like a lot, given the small sample, to be coincidental. Hope you are well mended and can now enjoy the rest of the walk to Santiago. We're waiting to hear how the walk to Sobrado goes, hang in there! Buen camino, Laurie
 
So, I really wanted to go to Sobrado but it was raining on Monday, I wasn't feeling 100% and knowing there was a lack of arrows, I decided to go the Primitivo way with more options for accommodation... I'm glad I did because 20km to San Roman da Retorta was tough for me... I don't think I would have made it to Friol. Sorry! It will have to wait until I do the Camino del Norte :)
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
So, I really wanted to go to Sobrado but it was raining on Monday, I wasn't feeling 100% and knowing there was a lack of arrows, I decided to go the Primitivo way with more options for accommodation... I'm glad I did because 20km to San Roman da Retorta was tough for me... I don't think I would have made it to Friol. Sorry! It will have to wait until I do the Camino del Norte :)

Glad you made it safe and sound, no point in pushing it. Anyway, it just gives you one more thing to look forward to on the Camino del Norte. Hope you are fully recovered soon, but there's no keeping down your enthusiasm, as your blog post is bursting with it! Gorgeous pictures! Take your time and be well, Laurie
 
¿Habéis comido setas?. Cuidado con eso. Hay que conocerlas muy bien para cocinarlas ya que las hay tóxicas. Quizás tus problemas estomacales vengan de ahí. Hay setas no comestibles que se pueden confundir fácilmente con otras que lo son.

Have you eaten mushrooms ?. Careful with that. You have to know them very well to cook them because there are toxic. Perhaps your stomach problems come from there. There are no edible mushrooms that are easily confused with others that are.
 
The only mushrooms I had were from a restaurant but that was quite a few days before lugo...
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
When I did my Primitivo I drank in many fountains and I didn´t have any stomach problem. But I think that as a general rule is better not to drink if they don't have the indication "Agua Potable" because some of them could be contaminated by liquid manure (to fertilize the meadows). Of course, not all the fountains with no indication are contaminated, because the water can come trough pipes from a safe reservoir up in the hills, but I think is better not to take risks just in case.
 
Vale, es que leyendo tu blog entendí que habíais recogido setas y las habíais cocinado. Como te dije, es fácil de confundir algunas especies comestibles con las que no lo son, así que hay que tener mucho cuidado con eso.

Ok. It is understood that reading your blog that you had You had picked mushrooms and cooked. Like I said, it is easy to confuse some edible species with which they are not, so you have to be very careful with that.
 
When I did my Primitivo I drank in many fountains and I didn´t have any stomach problem. But I think that as a general rule is better not to drink if they don't have the indication "Agua Potable" because some of them could be contaminated by liquid manure (to fertilize the meadows). Of course, not all the fountains with no indication are contaminated, because the water can come trough pipes from a safe reservoir up in the hills, but I think is better not to take risks just in case.

Así es, si no hay cartel que indique si es potable, yo no bebería por si acaso, a no ser que haya un vecino a quien preguntar si se puede beber o no. En mi casa, todo el agua que se bebe es de una fuente cercana.

That is, if there is no sign indicating whether it is safe, I would not drink in case, unless there is a neighbor to ask if you can drink or not. In my house, all the water you drink is from a nearby source.
 
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No, my husband would kill me if I ate mushrooms that someone I didn't know picked (unless in a restaurant!) :) ... The closest I got to the mushrooms in the forest and on the chopping board in the albergue, was with my camera ;)

I drank fountain water in most places unless there was a sign saying not to (but it's my 3rd camino in Spain and I've never had a problem with fountain water before) and I ate tapas and bar food everywhere... But no-one else I was with in Lugo got sick so it's all a bit of a mystery to me.

It's certainly lingering though and making my camino more expensive having to stay in hostels with my own bathroom... Although saying that I feel very fortunate right now to be staying in Pousada Salceda, it's absolutely stunning and I wouldn't be staying here if I wasn't still feeling sick, €30. It was worth the 27km in the rain today to find this gem :)
 
So, have you arrived yet Kat? I'm following your blog enthusiastically :) Hope you've been feeling better today, and Santiago gives you lots of healing and comfort.
Buen Camino,
Aidan:)
 
I've finished! I came in yesterday to Santiago around 5:30pm, like a drowned rat!
The blog is up-to-date, but I'll add GPS info once back home.

Followingthearrows.wordpress.com

Thank you everyone for your comments and support. I absolutely LOVED this camino, it was beautiful and I couldn't recommend it enough :)

Kat xx
 
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I've finished! I came in yesterday to Santiago around 5:30pm, like a drowned rat!
The blog is up-to-date, but I'll add GPS info once back home.

Followingthearrows.wordpress.com

Thank you everyone for your comments and support. I absolutely LOVED this camino, it was beautiful and I couldn't recommend it enough :)

Kat xx

Congratulations Kat........good for you:) So what's the plan now....Muxia, Finsterra??;)
 
Congratulations Kat!:)
 
I've finished! I came in yesterday to Santiago around 5:30pm, like a drowned rat!
The blog is up-to-date, but I'll add GPS info once back home.

Followingthearrows.wordpress.com

Thank you everyone for your comments and support. I absolutely LOVED this camino, it was beautiful and I couldn't recommend it enough :)

Kat xx
So glad you got there in the end :)

Have just read your blog. As regards the pilgrim statue on Monte de Gozo, I had the same reaction as you when I went past there last Friday. I distinctly remember a huge statue (impossible to miss) of two pilgrims pointing towards the cathedral - it was there when I walked the Camino in 2008. This year, all I could see was some squirly abstract monument thing with pictures of the Pope... I scratched my head and wondered if I'd just walked a Camino in a parallel universe....
 
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Hi Aidan,

Hopefully the Camino Ingles... :)

(I walked out to Finisterra and Muxia then back to Santiago at the end of the camino frances last year and thought it was a lovely walk... But I'd prefer to walk somewhere new before repeating that one again).
 
¡Enhorabuena!.

Me encanta la foto que has puesto en la portada de tu blog.

Congratulations!.

I love the picture you put on the cover of your blog.
 
Congratulations Kat. Thank you for your description of a Camino that I love too.

Let me explain a paragraph from your blog (I'm from rural Galicia):
Day 14 , San Román- Melide: "passed through quaint tiny Galician stone hamlets and watched as women herded cows from the fields along the track in front of me to be milked. I wondered what jobs the men were doing?"

Well, I'm almost certain, that in case of a man in the house in good condition for working he would have a job outside (probably in the timber sector or construction) and he'd help her with the cows in his free time.
Otherwise (I mean no job outside), they would have milky cows (Holstein), much more work but more money.
The cows on the photo are "Rubia Galega" race. So that, they are beef cows, much less work to do with them, but the only revenue comes from the calves, and all the milk goes directly to them, so that they are not, usually milked. :)
 
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Hi Aidan,

Hopefully the Camino Ingles... :)

(I walked out to Finisterra and Muxia then back to Santiago at the end of the camino frances last year and thought it was a lovely walk... But I'd prefer to walk somewhere new before repeating that one again).

Sounds great Kat.......how wonderful! I hope you will continue blogging on the Ingles, I hope to do that route also sometime:)
Enjoy the rest of your journey
Buen Camino
 
¡Enhorabuena!.

Me encanta la foto que has puesto en la portada de tu blog.

Congratulations!.

I love the picture you put on the cover of your blog.

Thanks Angulero, I took it on the hospitales route :)
 
HI Kat -- I was out of town for the past four days and missed your arrival post. I just caught up on your wonderful blog. I am so glad you have reached Santiago! What perseverance and courage to continue on felling as poorly as you did! All of your posts are so helpful to those of us who will follow in your footsteps. I will watch for your Camino Ingles posts upcoming! Buen Camino. Liz
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I left Oviedo yesterday, now on Day 2 and absolutely loving it.

I hope to update my blog daily:
Followingthearrows.wordpress.com

The albergue in San Juan de Villapanada was almost full last night with a wonderful group of people and there's been some stunning views so far :)

Buen Camino,
Kat
Hi Kat, I followed your blog on the Primitivo and English Way with much interest. Beautiful pictures and wonderfully entertaining read. Thank you for all the information given and please keep us informed of any future plans. Sonnie
 
Thanks Sonnie,
Now I'm back, I've just updated both of the walks with elevation graphs from my gps too.
I keep reading blogs about the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail, from Mexico to Canada) and I think I've convinced myself that I want to do it... now to convince my husband to let me go for +/- 4 months! ;)
 
Thanks Sonnie,
Now I'm back, I've just updated both of the walks with elevation graphs from my gps too.
I keep reading blogs about the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail, from Mexico to Canada) and I think I've convinced myself that I want to do it... now to convince my husband to let me go for +/- 4 months! ;)
Pacific Crest is a big deal -- wilderness hiking mostly! Good luck!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Os dejo un vídeo de un programa de televisión que comenzó ayer. Habla sobre cómo se vive o vivía en los pueblos siguiendo el curso de un río. En este primer programa hablan sobre el río Navia, por lo que en la primera parte del programa sale la zona de Grandas de Salime. Incluso habla un hospitalero. También se habla de cómo se construyó el embalse.Y más adelante hablan del cortín y para que servía. Quizás a alguno os guste verlo.

I leave you a video of a TV show that began yesterday. Talk about living or lived in villages along the course of a river. In this first program talk about the Navia River, so the first part of the program goes Grandas de Salime area. Even speaks hospitable. It also talks about how embalse.Y built later speak of cortín and serving. Maybe you like to see any.

http://www.rtpa.es/video:Sigue la corriente_551414543129.html
 

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Can anyone recommend a good snack to buy for the hospitalès route Nothing major just something to keep me going Many thanks

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