I am currently at San Anton Abad looking forward to a great dinner (thank you,
@CrimsonBear ). Most kitchens are closed; the people (especially vegans) that want to cook are grouping together in AirB&B's every now and then to cook. I stayed in Granon, Casa de las Sonrisas which is a Donativo but took my reservation because of Covid, and had a true Donativo-style meal cooked by the hospitaleros. In terms of masks, everyone is masked as they enter the albergues and the hospitalero shows us to our bunks, but pretty much after that the masks come off. We mask up to enter a cafe/bar to order food, and take it off to eat and drink.
Many bars and tiendas did not survive Covid; it can be difficult to buy breakfast in the morning, or if I find breakfast I may not find lunch. I am trying to keep 1-2 meals of picnic food with me to cover the frequent times there isn't a bar or tienda where I want one.
As the crowds drop off, I see more and more people not booking ahead, and finding beds. There are still bottlenecks, and Saturdays can be problematic if you want to stay in a town that is also a tourist draw and you compete with locals for rooms.
There are fewer Spaniards walking, at least where I am. I try to have a discussion with my dorm-mates about cracking a window open, and most everyone seems enthusiastic about getting airflow, and not waking in a stuffy room. I heard about a place in Espinosa that had a German guest who wasn't vaccinated, so they required everyone to strictly mask during their stay.
I have also only heard about one pilgrim who got bedbugs (seems to have been in Logrono). Maybe the Covid cleaning protocols have helped combat bedbugs?
Buen Camino on your upcoming walk!