How busy is the CF, (May 2023)?

[john07989]

Starting out from Leon on the 3rd of May. I've done a few caminos in the past, just wanted to get an idea of how busy it is at the moment. Would you say booking is advisable/essential, I know it can go either way at certain times.

 

[SongKhonGair]

Starting out from Leon on the 3rd of May. I've done a few caminos in the past, just wanted to get an idea of how busy it is at the moment. Would you say booking is advisable/essential, I know it can go either way at certain times.

I have no personal knowledge, but there is a current thread on Reddit saying it is very busy:
"... they all tell tales of full albergues, very non-pilgrim behaviors of fellow pilgrims, and bunk-sniping by Camino-planning companies."

 

[Kathar1na]

I have no personal knowledge, but there is a current thread on Reddit saying it is very busy:
"... they all tell tales of full albergues, very non-pilgrim behaviors of fellow pilgrims, and bunk-sniping by Camino-planning companies."

The full quote from the Reddit thread is this:

“I have friends walking right now, and a few friends who just finished. The short time from Leon up the Salvador and down the Primitivo aside, they all tell tales of full albergues, very non-pilgrim behaviors of fellow pilgrims, and bunk-sniping by Camino-planning companies.”​

​

So it is not first hand experience and it is not Camino Francés experience.

We also know from years past that the Camino Francés can be busy at one end, quiet on another section and have more than enough beds at the other end. And it not only depends on the “where” but also on the “when”. It is very dynamic and it is also best when people currently walking say where they are or where and when they have made their observation …

 

[jungleboy]

The full quote from the Reddit thread is this:

“I have friends walking right now, and a few friends who just finished. The short time from Leon up the Salvador and down the Primitivo aside, they all tell tales of full albergues, very non-pilgrim behaviors of fellow pilgrims, and bunk-sniping by Camino-planning companies.”​

​

So it is not first hand experience and it is not Camino Francés experience.

For what it's worth, the 'aside' in the quote means they are not talking about the Salvador and Primitivo (i.e. they are saying these are the exceptions), so it is likely they are indeed talking about the Francés.

 

[Kathar1na]

Lol, I made a mistake that is all too common: reading and posting too quickly. Thank you for picking this up.

 

[Jodean]

The front desk guy at my albergue in Najera just showed me his reservation book. All booked until mid May, then nothing!

 

[kcurtz]

I did my second etapa today but continued to Larrasoaña. The only place to sleep is a sports building with a concrete floor - no mattress. Everything is booked, since january I've heard. Close to impossible to find anywhere to sleep at the moment.

 

[fosnan5]

We are in Zubiri now (our 3rd day). We left this morning from Burguete at 6:30… walked into town around noon, crossed the bridge and happened upon the owner of Amets Pension and got the last room here. He said they feel it is post pandemic that it is much busier than usual. Friends we met arrived about 1:30 and just made it into the municipal albergue. We feel better trying to book ahead but are hoping that after Pamplona, things will become more relaxed. They say the Camino provides…. I believe so!

 

[AZtor]

The front desk guy at my albergue in Najera just showed me his reservation book. All booked until mid May, then nothing!

interesting. Did you ask why?

 

[AZtor]

I did my second etapa today but continued to Larrasoaña. The only place to sleep is a sports building with a concrete floor - no mattress. Everything is booked, since january I've heard. Close to impossible to find anywhere to sleep at the moment.

But they opened something up. Was it free to stay there?

I'd be ok with sleeping anywhere really.

 

[Audtrekker 1]

I have been volunteering in a gîte for the past 2 weeks in SJPP and in my opinion it is advisable to book up to Pamplona. The gîte I’m in has been full this whole month like most other gîtes here. Roncesvalles seems to be full for the next few days. After Pamplona people will start to spread out and you can always stay away from the recommended stages.
Camping Urrobi is another option between Burguete and Espinal ( a little off trail) They have dorm style rooms.

 

[kcurtz]

But they opened something up. Was it free to stay there?

I'd be ok with sleeping anywhere really.

It's free, but the floor is very hard. Looking forward to an aching body tomorrow.

 

[JabbaPapa]

This is all relative, but, and from recent experience ...

I would say very busy between both SJPP and Logroño ; and between Sarria and Santiago.

Elsewhere on the Francès, apart from particular places as Burgos, León, and Astorga, numbers these days are actually lower than they were.

Though caveat -- this year, general numbers are up from 2019.

 

[AZtor]

It's free, but the floor is very hard. Looking forward to an aching body tomorrow.

This is fairly normal for local travel in the Philippines so I'm ok with it. Thanks for the info!

 

[Cissehawa]

I’m booking 1week ahead,
tried 2 days ahead, hard to get a bed.
I’m in Granon now,
Every town I walk by is fully booked everyday
Just heard the people who start from St jean today,
some of them have to spend the night in the pilgrim office tonight , sleeping on the floor,is it true?

 

[Sacha]

I’m booking 1week ahead,
tried 2 days ahead, hard to get a bed.
I’m in Granon now,
Every town I walk by is fully booked everyday
Just heard the people who start from St jean today,
some of them have to spend the night in the pilgrim office tonight , sleeping on the floor,is it true?

Im starting in Logroño mid May.. I was really hoping I could do it without booking ahead.. Are you saying all albergues, including private ones are all booked up days before? Or do you arrive late (after 14.00) and by then everything is full?

 

[Cissehawa]

Im starting in Logroño mid May.. I was really hoping I could do it without booking ahead.. Are you saying all albergues, including private ones are all booked up days before? Or do you arrive late (after 14.00) and by then everything is full?

My experience was booking 1 day ahead
certainly can’t get a bed.2 days ago I was in Logrono I forgot to confirm my booking ,they give away the bed,so I have to sleep in a hostel.

 

[trecile]

The front desk guy at my albergue in Najera just showed me his reservation book. All booked until mid May, then nothing!

Starting from SJPdP June - August should be fine until you get to Galicia.

 

[MacMac]

I am walking the Frances at the moment, am in Villamayor de Montjardin at the moment.

I found amend every night upto now … Orisson I had booked early, all others I just called the evening before.

There were beds free at night in all albergues since Orisson.

I have not felt any stress and probably wouldn’t even want to walk the Camino, if I had to fix my route and book ahead for more than one night.

The more people get anxious and risk averse, the worse the situation gets. I hope this doesn’t become the normal.

 

[Joannel]

We stayed at Boadilla last night and we are booking 4-5 days in advance. Several times we have not been able to get our first choice. Albergues are full and busy.

 

[JWST]

I am in Logrono atm and Monday is a public holiday, had to book beyond here as mist places seem well filled, Santa Domingo in three nights seemed ok, maybe as our wave of walkers passes and we get past the holiday it will improve, many in my hostel (Winederful) are young Spaniards who are not walking but partying so not so winederful, lovely town

 

[Sacha]

I am in Logrono atm and Monday is a public holiday, had to book beyond here as mist places seem well filled, Santa Domingo in three nights seemed ok, maybe as our wave of walkers passes and we get past the holiday it will improve, many in my hostel (Winederful) are young Spaniards who are not walking but partying so not so winederful, lovely town

oh that’s frustrating! I’ll be staying at Winederful my first night. Stayed there last year aswell. Great albergue

 

[Kathar1na]

oh that’s frustrating! I’ll be staying at Winederful my first night. Stayed there last year aswell. Great albergue

I'm just pointing this out for the benefit of newcomers to Camino walking. Winederful is not a pilgrim albergue in Logroño, it is a hostel for everyone, whether they walk or not. Gronze.com indicates this clearly where they write: Exclusivo para peregrinos: No and Admite reserva: Sí.

When you are new to Camino walking and to being a Camino pilgrim and are unsure of your choices, the indicators on Gronze.com are helpful. Sometimes it may also be helpful to look at the comments, for example: This is a well appointed hostel and looks excellent on arrival and has a great seating area. However Logrono is a party town and this is a party hostel. A "last check in time" of 11 pm should give you a clue. My experience was that I shared a room with people who checked in after I was already in bed after walking. Some came in after 3 am and others at 5.30 am.

Others praise the hostel, it was just what they needed or wanted. Your experience may vary and may especially depend on whether you stayed there on a Friday night or Saturday night or on another day.

Of course, when pilgrims and other tourists outnumber beds in Logroño or elsewhere, you may want to take whatever you get at a modest price.

 

[JWST]

Thanks Kathar1na, I have not used Gronze but will do in future, I looked elsewhere after arrival but there was nothing available, a matter of timing, it is a bed which covers the basics, but lesson learnt. Just watched two peregrinos get turned away for tonight despite have made a booking, the email they sent was not received/acknowledged… more lessons in ensuring you get an acknowledgment I guess…personally the Tripadvisor rating of 9.3 is ambitious, in the 8’s at best from me, especially at the price, am not complaining just rating in comparison to where I have stayed to date
Buen Camino

 

[Bradypus]

A statement was posted on the Roncesvalles Albergue Facebook page this afternoon. A sad reflection on the struggle to cope with the very large numbers which have been arriving this year - many of whom have had to be turned away.

Facebook

www.facebook.com

 

[Kathar1na]

For those who have access to Facebook and read Spanish, a rare post from the albergue of Roncesvalles manager about the current situation (see link below), posted today Sunday 30 April 2023. Remember: That is the current situation in Roncesvalles and not the situation along the whole 800 km and it is now, not in 2 weeks‘ time and not in 2 months‘ time.

ALBERGUE DE PEREGRINOS DE RONCESVALLES | Roncesvalles

ALBERGUE DE PEREGRINOS DE RONCESVALLES, Roncesvalles, Navarra, Spain. 3,634 likes · 9 talking about this · 341 were here. Primer Albergue de Peregrinos del Camino de Santiago, situado en...

www.facebook.com

 

[Kathar1na]

@Bradypus and I posted at the same time about the same thing. So he is presumably also sitting near a screen and reading stuff online. My excuse is that my legs ache from yesterday‘s walking. I wonder what his excuse is.

 

[Bradypus]

@Bradypus and I posted at the same time about the same thing. So he is presumably also sitting near a screen and reading stuff online. My excuse is that my legs ache from yesterday‘s walking. I wonder what his excuse is.

Who needs an excuse! But just in case I'll say it is cold and wet round here today and sitting by a warm laptop seems a good choice. Just about to leave for a long drive and a folk music show though!

 

[ils]

I’m walking the Frances right now and today people couldn’t get a bed at Zubiri. I arrived there at 1pm and there was already a line. Stayed in line for an hour, but there weren’t enough beds. Larrosoaña was also full. I had to take a taxi to Pamplona, which is also full but I managed to get a private accommodation on booking.com while in the taxi.

People did say to book the first few nights as it is such a bottleneck, and I tried. But my albergue in Larrosoaña didn’t hold my reservation.

TL;DR: it’s crowded right now and it’s hard to get a bed. Try to book ahead, at least for the first few days, if you can.

 

[Kathar1na]

I have not used Gronze but will do in future, I looked elsewhere after arrival but there was nothing available, a matter of timing, it is a bed which covers the basics, but lesson learnt. Just watched two peregrinos get turned away for tonight despite have made a booking, the email they sent was not received/acknowledged… more lessons in ensuring you get an acknowledgment I guess

Best of luck, @JWST and Buen Camino to you!

As I said, I just wanted to clarify things for newcomers.

On the forum, we often use albergue quite indiscriminately but along the Camino Francés albergue has a specific meaning. It depends a little on the legal definition in the various regions - Navarra, La Rioja, CyL and Galicia - but in general albergue de peregrino is an establishment that cannot be booked and is owned and/or run by a municipality, a parish or a voluntary Camino association. Albergue on its own, followed by a name, is usually a privately owned establishment with dormitories and/or private rooms and can often be booked, and it is mainly for pilgrims but not exclusively. Other places like casa, hostal, casa rural, and of course hotel can be booked; they cater for the general public including welcoming pilgrims of course. "Booking" can mean reserving a bed with a credit card guarantee and forfeit of your money when you don't cancel before the stipulated deadline or don't turn up, or it means a loser arrangement agreed by a WhatsApp message or by email or by phone.

Gronze has the useful categories "only for pilgrims", "not only for pilgrims but oriented towards pilgrims" and no mention of pilgrims.

When people speak of "everything is booked" they usually refer to bookable establishments. It is not possible to say anything about the situation at a non-bookable albergue unless it is already later in the day and the albergue is indeed full; these albergues work on a first-come first-served basis, and can apparently sometimes be full by 1 pm or so but I think this is rather the exception than the rule.

 

[ayidinmokum]

I did my second etapa today but continued to Larrasoaña. The only place to sleep is a sports building with a concrete floor - no mattress. Everything is booked, since january I've heard. Close to impossible to find anywhere to sleep at the moment.

They were still using this yesterday when i went thru larrasoana. Probably 40-50 Pilgrims on cardboard in a concrete outdoor gym, all old people, as they are the last to arrive. Its seeming like you need to arrive before 12 to get a bed. A lot of the people I've walked with are getting up 5am and walking 6kmh or prebooking., Far different than 2003.

 

[Jodean]

Boadilla has beds tonight as did Castrojeriz yesterday. Lots of pilgrims on the path tho

 

[deano5]

In los arcos today, reserved a bed yesterday, have seen many pilgrims who are not reserving rooms have been able to find lodging. I know of two people who cancelled a reservation in los arcos and went on to Sansol and got beds.
Heading to viana tomorrow.

 

[JabbaPapa]

There's some answer to OP's question :

https://www.noticiasdenavarra.com/n...ino-santiago-vuelve-cifras-llena-6780061.html

El Camino de Santiago recupera el pulso después de la pandemia. Hasta el mes de mayo, han pasado por Navarra 9.932 peregrinos, 2.000 más que el año pasado y una cifra similar a 2019. Encima, la afluencia de caminantes se está concentrando desde el mes de abril, que ha sido un auténtico torrente de visitantes. Un total de 7.785 peregrinos han recorrido Navarra en abril, 2.349 más que el año pasado (5.436) y una cifra superior a las registradas antes de la pandemia (7.312 en 2019 y 6.271 en 2018).

Los albergues no dan abasto ante la masiva afluencia de peregrinos de los últimos meses y colocan el cartel de completo a diario. Por ello, algunos de los caminantes están teniendo que ser trasladados a casas rurales o alojamientos de Pamplona o de otras localidades alejadas del Camino.

Since Easter, numbers have been back at 2019 levels (slightly more in fact), and some pilgrims have been having difficulty finding a bed.

There are some profile stats at the end of the article -- many French pilgrims, apparently.

 

[Sho]

I can't speak to beds, but here's Sarria: