How different is walking in France from walking in Spain?

[Satírico]

Dear All,

Since cancelling last year's camino I seem to be accumulating lots of guidebooks and forum hours, but not many miles of actual walking. Hope to remedy that soon, but now to business.

How is the experience of trekking across France different from Spain? Environmentally. Temperamentally.

Do I really have to call every time and book ahead to reserve a space at the next stop? This feels antithetical to the spirit of the exercise, and I can't help recalling scenes in the movie Saint Jacques...La Mecque where the group are waving their phones around, unable to get a signal.

Should one pack a tent as well as the sleeping bag, just in case?

Is it more advisable to travel in a group on this route?

Thank you in advance for any replies from individuals not fluent in French or married to their cellphones.

Buen Camino / Bonne Route(?) / Mind how you go.

 

[Kanga]

I did love that scene Philip! But it is not my experience.

To answer some questions. In terms of physical differences, first you need to work out which routes you are talking about, because they all vary so much. For example the Camino del Norte is very different to the Camino Francés, and the Le Puy route is very different to the Tours route. But as a general rule the routes in France are more geared towards walking through nature, sometimes taking long detours to ensure you get a good view, whereas the routes in Spain are geared more to actually getting to Santiago de Compostela.

If you are comparing the Le Puy route to the Camino Francés, then in terms of shear physical beauty I think the Le Puy wins. I absolutely loved the stunning landscape, the beautiful villages in France (the glorious little river towns on the Lot, including the near perfect St-Circ-Lapopie), the wonderful farmers markets, and, and, and.... . I don't know where the scenes from Saint Jacques....La Mecque were shot, but I did not recognise those rather dry boring landscapes.

The mix of people is very different; in France there are more recreational walkers, so weekends can be quite busy. Obviously many more French speakers, and English is definitely not the lingua franca, as it is on the Camino. You will still get a good mix of through walkers going to SJPDP, and nationalities other than French, but it is not nearly as social an event as the Camino Frances. That is the part I miss when I'm in France.

Many villages also do not have a shop or place to buy provisions (or anything else), so you must plan ahead more, and are more dependant on meals being provided at the gites - and that is another reason you need to book ahead. If there is no store for you to buy provisions then the gite owners has also to go elsewhere to get in supplies and needs to know in advance the catering numbers.

We've never taken a tent in France. We stay in a mix of gites and chambre d'hotes and get demi-pension (dinner, bed and breakfast) whenever possible. If you are thinking of tenting you might be interested in this website - an Australian couple who regularly tent while walking in France - here .

France is much more expensive than Spain - I would suggest at least a third more. But you do get better quality accommodation, and (arguably) better food.

 

[naplesdon]

Spoken as a part time resident of France, here is my response.
Spain and Portugal: The CF/CP/CI/CA/CN, in other words all the Iberian routes, are well serviced with cafes, restaurants, bars and albergues aimed at services for pilgrims. They are conveniently spaced out for all sorts of hikers. Whether on a low budget or willing to spend more for private accommodations you can find just about every to suit your taste available. The environment and temperature varies region to region. You will not need a tent, the need for a sleeping bag would depend on the season but you can get by on a silk liner because blankets are generally available. Booking ahead is not necessary unless you are there during a busy period but most municipal albegues don't take reservations. They normally open at 1pm and you will want to be in line or stop your day (say b/f 3pm?) for a bed depending on the size of the facility.
France: The lodging and food is generally done demi-pension which is usually a family style dinner, a bed and breakfast. Most of the places can be found through the local tourist office or in your guidebook. Bookings tend to be advisable and/or you can have your former host book ahead for you since you will be walking about as far as they would drive to do daily errands. The French walk the randonnes on weekends, holidays and vacations and it is a different experience from walking the Caminos. Climate is regional.
I don't travel with a group. I walk alone and the only reason I carry a cellphone is for emergencies.
Bonne chemin.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

You probably won't use a tent, so save the weight. The French call ahead, so you need to do the same to avoid a lot of wandering at the end of the day. If you want to wing it, use the tourist offices to help you find vacancies. Keep in mind that they will be close midday, Sunday, and maybe Monday. Cell service has improved since La Mecque! Coverage has improved, and most of the public phones have been removed. The terrain, hence "the walking" is about the same. Some days will go up and down a series of ridges. As soon as you gain elevation, you lose it. That happens on parts of the routes in Spain as well. For a first walk in France, I would suggest the Le Puy route. It has more infrastructure and pilgrims. The others can have long distances with few stopping places (and poor waymarking). Remember that red and white balises are used for ALL the Grand Randonnee routes (both directions), so you need some additional guidance in some places to stay on the trail.

 

[Sixwheeler]

The food is better in France, any Frenchman will confirm this.

 

[marbuck]

Walking in France is better than walking in Spain but not as social. Yes you must book ahead otherwise you will get nothing to eat. The food is better but I prefer the Spanish wine.

 

[domigee]

The food is better in France, any Frenchman will confirm this.

Nope, sorry, however much I'd like to agree with you, I cannot. I have had - by far - my worst meals in France, sadly.
I know, I couldn't believe it either!!!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Nope, sorry, however much I'd like to agree with you, I cannot. I have had - by far - my worst meals in France, sadly.
I know, I couldn't believe it either!!!

You ate in the wrong places! The morning pastry expedition alone is worth a camino in France. A dinner plate covered with animal parts that Americans seem to put only into pet food proves that everything is edible and tasty (if you are not squeamish ).

 

[domigee]

You ate in the wrong places! The morning pastry expedition alone is worth a camino in France. A dinner plate covered with animal parts that Americans seem to put only into pet food proves that everything is edible and tasty (if you are not squeamish ).

I am very glad you enjoyed the food Falcon, cheers me up
I ate in the ONLY places I found....
As for morning pastries, I think I only found two boulangeries open in over a month walking... Once I even chased a delivery van down the road to buy a loaf of bread (the poor man was quite scared but I was desperate )
Believe me, it hurts me to say that (I am French btw).

Admittedly, I was not on the Le Puy way but walking the Via Francigena from Calais to Besançon... And I did find one very good restaurant, near the Swiss border, totally by chance and as usual it was the only one around: the new owner had one Michelin star! The drawback was that it cost a small fortune but hey ho.

 

[NorthernLight]

I never pre-booked anything on the Le Puy trail and it was never a problem for food. It was occasionally stressful for sleeping, especially later in the season when places were shutting down and you had to go further. A 37 km day nearly did me in. I'm not sure that France can handle a Holy year accommodation surge as they don't have municipalities catering to our needs.

French dinner is better, but Spanish breakfast at the bar when you want it is way better than sticking around for an 8 am French breakfast of bread and jam and coffee.

 

[AJ]

.

Admittedly, I was ... walking the Via Francigena from Calais to Besançon...

I had good food on this route. I also had good food on the Voie de Vezelay, Voie Littorale, Voie de Piemonts...

I guess you have bad luck!

 

[domigee]

I guess you're right!
It could also be, sadly, that a lot of places had closed by the time I walked it (2014)

 

[fraluchi]

[...]How is the experience of trekking across France different from Spain? Environmentally. Temperamentally.[...]

Apart from the obvious difference in language (environment), people in Spain tend to be more "accommodating" than in France (temperament).
In general, in France things like accommodation, food and beverage, and corresponding prices, are quite different compared to those same necessities in Spain. In other words, your Camino Euros get further in Spain than in France. Though the price/quality factor is debatable, it depends upon the route(s) you are taking.

 

[John Lunde]

Nope, sorry, however much I'd like to agree with you, I cannot. I have had - by far - my worst meals in France, sadly.
I know, I couldn't believe it either!!!

The Le Puy route is truly beautiful and I'm so glad I walked it, but pack a lunch .. or a lot them. I had trouble getting enough to eat in France, quality aside. Since I can't eat dairy products and stay out of the bushes, I was limited. Add to this France has become a car culture and the small retailers in the villages are nearly all gone and there is not enough traffic from walkers to revive them.

 

[High Endeavours]

Walking in France is better than walking in Spain but not as social. Yes you must book ahead otherwise you will get nothing to eat. The food is better but I prefer the Spanish wine.

I have enjoyed walking in both Spain and France and I found that both were very social experiences. The evening meals in the French gites and monestaries were every bit as social as meals along the Plata and the Frances. I enjoyed wonderful evenings of sharing and friendship over some amazing meals on the Le Puy. The French were much more accommodating and friendly than I had been led to believe.

I guess it all comes down to the experience one is fortunate or unfortunate enough to have along the way. I've met people who hated the solitary walking along the Plata and felt excluded in the evenings due to language barriers. Others like myself loved the entire experience. The social gatherings at the end of the day were simply special. There were so few of us that we formed very deep friendships that have continued to the present with great efforts made to try and communicate and to be inclusive.

The custom in France is to book a day ahead, mostly out of courtesy so that the owner of the gite can be sure to have adequate fresh food available. The cooking was almost always excellent, the wines good and the company so much fun! Perhaps I was a little lucky, but I think it all comes down to what you are prepared to make of each day and situation. And yes, I agree with you John, walking in France, carry extra food as getting lunch is a real challenge most days!

I'm already excited to return to Spain this year and to taste a little of Portugal again! Still some 5 months to wait...and to anticipate

 

[lovingkindness]

I never pre-booked anything on the Le Puy trail .....

...nor did I on the Le Puy or any other chemin de St Jacques I've followed. I have slept in some curious places, though -a morgue, a few maisons de retraite, a gendarme's garden shed by invitation, as well as church porches and an elegant apartment in Montmartre for a week... If there is nowhere listed for pelerin in a village I begin by asking at la mairie, then the local gendarme, and after that all the local shops and cafes. I must say, les gendarmes have always been enthusiastic helpers...
...oh, and also Monsieur le prêtre, that's if there is a Monsieur le prêtre. In the Alsace Lorraine and many other parts of France they can be pretty thin on the ground.

j'adorrrrre La France.

 

[mspath]

Lovingkindness,

The next time you are walking through northern France please do plan to stop at our farm. We offer hospitality, beds and a glass of local champagne.

My first camino shell hangs at the door to welcome passing pilgrims.

A bientot!
Margaret Meredith

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I have slept in some curious places, though

Calling ahead avoids that!

The usual reason folks ask about the need to call ahead is to avoid sleeping under the stars (or in a morgue). We all pretty much fall asleep each night; it is more about not sleeping where you fall.

The French call ahead to reserve a bed. Pilgrims need to do the same if they want one with certainty...

 

[lovingkindness]

Lovingkindness,

The next time you are walking through northern France please do plan to stop at our farm.
My first camino shell hangs at the door to welcome passing pilgrims.

A bientot!
Margaret Meredith

Merci beaucoup!

 

[marbuck]

as well as church porches

Is that why a lot of churches are locked? On the two Camino's we have walked we have been disappointed to find many churches are locked. We have been told they are locked to prevent pilgrims from sleeping in them to avoid paying for a Gite.

 

[mspath]

Many churches in France are locked to prevent vandalism in general. Furthermore many are locked due to a lack of on site clergy and/or custodians.

 

[lovingkindness]

Is that why a lot of churches are locked? On the two Camino's we have walked we have been disappointed to find many churches are locked. We have been told they are locked to prevent pilgrims from sleeping in them to avoid paying for a Gite.

There are locked churches all over Western Europe not just along les Chemins de St Jacques. Young people have migrated from the villages to the cities and fewer people are becoming pastors and priests. In Slovenia, Poland and Italy, though, many villages still have a local priest and the churches are open...

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Many churches in France are locked

And yet there are more open than in Spain! Often if you walk around the square around the church and knock on doors, you can locate the key. Key holders are very eager about sharing their church, so, while I have not been able to find the key on occasion, no one has every rejected my request!