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how exposed are the Primitivo trails?

anngw

New Member
My husband is bery keen to hike the Primitivo. I'm a fairly tough hiker but - i must admit - i get really scared hiking along exposed, precipitous, ledge-type trails. I've been caught out with terrain like that in mid-hike and promised myself i'd never do that to myself again. Can someone please tell me, i know the Primitivo is steep and physically gruelling in parts. But are there sections that are high and exposed with sheer drop offs?
 
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If you are worrying about falling off the cliff, then you need no worry. The path is clear and you can see what is coming.

Your main worry on the primitivo is the mud, especially before Tineo. Even the hospitalero there told me that I am not allowed to take the mud, as it keeps him and his wife looking young (I think he joking).
 
Hi,
I hiked the primitivo twice (2010 and 2011) and it is absolutely wonderful, and i can't remember anything steep (i'm quite afraid of heights, so i would remember). So go for it! Another recommendable route connecting to the primitivo is the ruta del salvador from Leon to Oviedo. So if you have four or five extra days, you could start with this one from Leon and continue on the primitivo.
Primitivo was my 1st camino and after a lot of other routes in 2010 and 2011, I decided to walk it once again to see if it was really as beautiful as I remembered it, or that it was just an idea in my mind because of the 'magic of the 1st camino'. But it was just as beautiful again. Only thing is that it gets quite crowded in summer now (mainly July and August), in terms of accommodation.
Have fun in preparing,
ria
 
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I agree with the others, nothing to be afraid of, it's just a hard but very lovely Camino.
Josefine
 
Welcome back Ann!
I have just been checking through my notes and posts.
From Fonsagrada to Cadavo there are two places where the camino itself runs above the road. The first just past Villardongo is a wide track and there is no need to walk near the edge!
(photo below).
The other place past Paradavella is noted in my copy of the CSJ guide as
"Take care as the path follows the edge of a steep drop . . . . . . many people find it quicker and easier to stay on the road for this section".
This was the only part of the trail that I found difficult. It was discussed here:-
camino-primitivo/topic6274.html
The answer is to simply stay on the road as advised in the guide.

Enjoy your planning
Terry
 

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If you do not want to walk the Camino section Terry mentions, either because of the steep part or the road then it should be possible to catch the Fonsagrada-Lugo bus for a few kms. That is what we are thinking of doing in 2012.
Current bus times are here http://www.fonsagrada.org/content/horarios-de-autobuses
This is well east of the 100km point at Lugo so may be worth considering if it makes the difference between walking the Primitivo or not.
Buen Camino

PS That bad mud is a few kms before Tineo after Sta Eulalia. To avoid it don't turn right at the cemetery but go downhill through the village and onto the road. Shorter, quicker and not mud to the knees :!:
 
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Evan, Tia, Terry, Josefine, Ria - thanks so much for so kindly and generously jumping in with this clear and specific information. Just what i needed. Love the picture, Terry - makes me want to be there. And thanks for remembering me, Terry. We were going to do this last year but various things came up and we didn't. We're back on track (so to speak!) now.
 
I agree with all said here. No tricky exposed bits to get wobbly over.
I thought it was worth chipping in as one of my hospitales photos (on another post) makes it look more hairy than it actually is. I was just trying to make it look dramatic, but actually on the other side is a gentle heathery slope that would be quite good fun to roll down....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... 8189914015

As has been mentioned, wet weather is likely to be more of an issue - requiring some care and concentration on a couple of steepish rocky paths.
cheers, tom
 
That looks pretty hairy peregrino-tom! I will definitely be staring down at the path along that one. But it's not nearly as bad as the cliff-hugging path i ended up on at Zion National Park in Utah, for 5 hrs, with a 2500 foot sheer drop on one side. No rail of course. Yeah, so i trusted the people doing the research on that one. This time i'm doing a bit of my own!

It looks beautiful!
 
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Ann - compared to BC this will all just be like a gentle stroll in the park!
the hospitales option is a lovely way if the weather is kind to you. But it is only an option - you can always take the low road and some people say Polla is the prettiest town on the route, which makes the decision all the trickier.
And by the way, the waymarking last September/October was really excellent. Those Asturian friends of the camino do a fine job
cheers, tom
 
It seems like most of the way (from photos) is road....
I know the need/don't need issue of poles has been covered a few times in Equipment--perhaps not as much as one sock or two, thick or thin, or boot or trainer but I have the impression the roads vary quite a bit so I'd appreciate advice: I'm planning to start in Barcelona in apr, continue through Pamplona and get to irun, then the Norte to Primitivo to Santiago to the sea. Do I really need poles? And if the answer is yes any advice on how to find one I can hold comfortably? The unisex/men's I can't close my hand around, the ladies I can almost but not quite. The youth fit perfectly and I liked the horses and bunnies on them but he salesperson said NO. Thanks
 
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peregrino_tom said:
I agree with all said here. No tricky exposed bits to get wobbly over.
I thought it was worth chipping in as one of my hospitales photos (on another post) makes it look more hairy than it actually is. I was just trying to make it look dramatic, but actually on the other side is a gentle heathery slope that would be quite good fun to roll down....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... 8189914015

As has been mentioned, wet weather is likely to be more of an issue - requiring some care and concentration on a couple of steepish rocky paths.
cheers, tom

lovely pics & v. beautiful thank you, where's all that knee-dropping mud :)
 
Smallest_Sparrow said:
It seems like most of the way (from photos) is road....
I know the need/don't need issue of poles has been covered a few times in Equipment--perhaps not as much as one sock or two, thick or thin, or boot or trainer but I have the impression the roads vary quite a bit so I'd appreciate advice: I'm planning to start in Barcelona in apr, continue through Pamplona and get to irun, then the Norte to Primitivo to Santiago to the sea. Do I really need poles? And if the answer is yes any advice on how to find one I can hold comfortably? The unisex/men's I can't close my hand around, the ladies I can almost but not quite. The youth fit perfectly and I liked the horses and bunnies on them but he salesperson said NO. Thanks

Smallest Sparrow: Yes I'm the one that bangs-on about pacerpoles:
http://www.pacerpole.com/pacerpole-user ... adjustment
This handle will fit your your hand, whats amazing is you don't really ever grip it, it you do your are doing it a bit wrong, one just holds it, it really just allows you to take your weight on the palm of your hand. I'm pretty sure if you are un-happy after purchasing then you can return them, yes you've got 4weeks grace. http://www.pacerpole.com/pacerpole-user ... adjustment

I would not use leki again!(10yrs).
@ the end of the day each to their own,
they (P/poles)are great for pushing you especially over 'slippery' or 'uncertain' ground.
Bought 2pairs v. happy. Walking Tall, & yes have an extremely bad back, so keeping me upright rather than leaning forward is less painful, so definitely worth all that money.

David
 
Hola Smallest Sparrow. We are 'one pole' folk. We like to have a free hand, a pole that will take our full weight round mud patches when needed and that will hang on a gate/tree/chairback etc when we are stopped. Walking poles might serve for the Francés but IMHO a single pole, if any, is better for the Primitivo. It is however a very personal thing, especially if you don't usually need any sort of stick.

Much of the Norte from Santander is on track, along the coast path, especially after Santillana. Between Santander/Torrelevega and Santillana there is some road walking. A mix between Ribadesella and Oviedo. The Primitivo is mostly on track too with some road walking in bad weather.

Our wooden sticks were very long so we were able to cut them to our own length to fit. (Do this a bit at a time to get it right) Rubber ends are easily available in hardware stores in Spain and very cheap. We always carry a spare and replace it as soon as that is in use. Ordinary walking sticks are too short and straight poles wouldn't work for us. It is all down to what suits you. Happy hunting.
 

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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Thanks so much Abbeydore and Tia Valerie,
For 'track' does that mean dirt trail? I don't need support for knee or back issues but would prefer to avoid HUGE mud puddles and someone somewhere said piles keep you from falling down steep slopes... Should I expect a lot of those?
 
Smallest_Sparrow said:
Thanks so much Abbeydore and Tia Valerie,
For 'track' does that mean dirt trail? I don't need support for knee or back issues but would prefer to avoid HUGE mud puddles and someone somewhere said piles keep you from falling down steep slopes... Should I expect a lot of those?
Yes, tracks are mostly dirt trails. A few are the ancient Camino with the old limestone cobbles (flat stones) but only a very short distance.. The only really, really bad mud we found was at Sta Eulalia, 3kms before Tineo when it is better to go on the road. Much shorter and avoids the water over the ankles if it has been wet. The track doesn't have or need piles, it isn't that bad!!!! at least not in Terry's experience from Santander onwards. There is a simple guard rail in places to separate the Camino trail from the tarmac road. (We don't know the stretch from Irun to Santander)
 
I am very vertigo-sensitive and found only two stretches which were bothersome, one about 3km out of Lugo, and another about 6km out of La Mesa on the way to Grandas de Salime. Neither are more than 200-300 metres long and should be navigable with a companion. Most stretches with wide open spaces and heights have either 20-50 metres of sloping meadow, or are sheltered by subtantial fences or bushes and trees. The only area which might be rated as extremely difficult is the crossing of the dam at the Embalse de Salime-- either be walked across with a companion, or wait until there is a vehicle willing to take you over.
 
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I haven't seen any sheer cliff dropoffs so far. The only thing that even comes slightly close to something like that is the mountain route past the ruins but that's an optional route (worth it, in my opinion, as long as the weather is good). It's a footpath that's high up and you can see down the steep mountainside, certainly, but it's not a cliff. The only reason I even remember it is because the wind was something fierce that day and I had to lean hard into it, to the left, over the mountainside, which was a tad unsettling.
 
As someone who has had to be moved to another seat in the Royal Albert Hall due to an extreme attack of vertigo :eek: I can tell you that the Primitivo was not a problem. I didn't like the dam at the Embalse de Salime, any more than oursonpolaire, but it was doable. What was just awful, was the viewing platform, but you don't have to go on it!
 
I also get vertigo so I checked this site before I walked the Primitivo. I would also like to confirm that the Primitivo was not a problem. Just don't look over the edge of the dam!
 
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It seems like most of the way (from photos) is road....
I know the need/don't need issue of poles has been covered a few times in Equipment--perhaps not as much as one sock or two, thick or thin, or boot or trainer but I have the impression the roads vary quite a bit so I'd appreciate advice: I'm planning to start in Barcelona in apr, continue through Pamplona and get to irun, then the Norte to Primitivo to Santiago to the sea. Do I really need poles? And if the answer is yes any advice on how to find one I can hold comfortably? The unisex/men's I can't close my hand around, the ladies I can almost but not quite. The youth fit perfectly and I liked the horses and bunnies on them but he salesperson said NO. Thanks
Yes to poles for a few parts of Norte ( el Brusco and coming down from the monastery for sure) and the Primitivo where you are often walkin in single step tracks on uneven terrain ( never mind pushing thorny plants out of the way of your calves). For comfort, what about Pacer Poles? I find they make you walk faster on flat ground, not sure how different they felt to me for the rest, but the grip is a no brainer, and if that is something you struggle eith they may br worth considerng.
 
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