How hard is the Via de la Plata?

[Kiwi-family]

I have looked at the elevations and maps on Gronze and it looks like a mostly flat route (apart from about a week's worth of little climbs). It also would seem that all stages can be kept below 20km except for Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almaden de la Plata (28.9km), Monesterio to Funete de Cantos (21.2km), Casar de Caceres to Albergue del Embalse de Alcantara (21.8km), Calzada de Valdunciel to El Cubo de Vino (20.6km). On those stretches how easy is it to take a bus if needed or arrange for a taxi pick-up partway?

My concern about strenuousness is because my father-in-law who walked with us in 2012 has been confined to bed for the past couple of months completely unable to move due to a rare serious infection that has been eating away his spine. He had major surgery last week to stabilise his spine and we are talking about/dreaming of doing a camino together when he can walk again. At first we thought the maximum distance might need to be 10km per day and we know that could most easily be achieved on the Frances, but we like the look of this route and also De Levante (although that one seems more demanding). We are hoping he may be able to work up to 20km - right now he cannot even stand unassisted, so it is a big dream. He also has only a 30% chance of beating this nasty bug, but we are praying he will win and trying not to think about the numbers.

How motivating it would be for him to be able to realistically consider what we might manage and so I ask about this route, hoping you'll be brutally honest.
Thanks.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

I'm not really qualified to advise you on the albergue-distance problem, as my VDP was done on a bike, albeit very slowly as I was 67 at the time. It's worth mentioning, though, that for much of the distance, the camino roughly follows the main Routa de la Plata, ( or more accurately the other way round) and public transport should not be a problem. One word of caution comes to mind though, with reference to the Casilblanco-Almaden stage. The camino wanders through a beautiful National Park, but just before Almaden you are faced with a killer climb up a ridge to a place aptly named Calvario. It certainly was in my case. I had to get help. It is avoidable if you check the map.
I hope your father-in-law can make it. The VDP has some wonderful stretches, and passes through towns and cities which are a feast for the imagination. I'm sure you'll get lots of advice from previous walkers; I wish I had been physically capable of being one. Good luck.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Peregrino Paul
Would you mind sharing a little more of your cycling experience? My father-in-law was an avid cyclist until three months ago (at 83 was still regularly putting in 80km). It is unlikely he will get back on a bicycle even if he fully recovers, but he also rides a recumbent trike and that is a distinct possibility. Do the cycling paths differ much from the walking ones? We have on occasion done city walks where the family goes on foot and he rides his trike - so this might be a possibility. Thanks for commenting as it has opened up another line of thought!

 

[William Marques]

My recollection is similar to Paul's the Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almaden de la Plata is difficult either way and without any obvious public transport possibility.

As another bike pilgrim who stuck to the roads on the VdlP (except up the hill out of Banos) I would say that the main road alternative is the old N630 which was the main North-South road before the autovia was built with a wide hard shoulder.

The route is less interesting as a whole (though it has some of the greatest towns in Spain) than the CF with less pilgrims which may or may not matter if you are travelling as a family. You are right to say that in general it is flat but the sections from Guillena to Zafra is up and down and the day after Banos is very hilly.

If you are looking for a new experience it is a good route but perhaps not the best one for your father in law and really only in spring or autumn.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Peregrino Paul
Would you mind sharing a little more of your cycling experience? My father-in-law was an avid cyclist until three months ago (at 83 was still regularly putting in 80km). It is unlikely he will get back on a bicycle even if he fully recovers, but he also rides a recumbent trike and that is a distinct possibility. Do the cycling paths differ much from the walking ones? We have on occasion done city walks where the family goes on foot and he rides his trike - so this might be a possibility. Thanks for commenting as it has opened up another line of thought!

Don't get me started! But anyway.
I don't think there is any designated cycling track. The "tour de France" types probably do almost the whole camino following the proper route. My policy, was to be realistic about my physical ability, and stick to the roads where I anticipated trouble, for example, on the Camino Sanabres, I used the roads on all the mountain climbs. (Still a challenge, mind you, but well within my capacity). There was another section, leaving Baños, where the walkers use the wonderful restored Roman Road. I walked part of it on a day off, but decided the steepness and cobblestones needed respect. By and large I followed the true, very well-marked camino, and much of it was straightforward until the mountains after Rionegro. I travelled alone, in June, and met some fascinating fellow peregrinos, almost exclusively walkers, and got to stay in some memorable albergues. (Fuenterroble, for instance). The great advantage of a bicycle, of course, is that you don't have to carry your gear on your back, which with my knees would have been out of the question. The VDP is beautiful, quiet, and a very long way, but if you have the time .... I intend to return to it in 2016 with a friend.

 

[AlanB]

Looks like you have done your research . There's nothing that should be beyond you. I walked last July and although it was hot it was rarely unbearable. Plenty of water and you'll be fine. There are some fairly remote stages where taxis could be an issue but a good map could help you by-pass these. The route from Caceres to Alcantara springs to mind.The last 15km are very exposed and desolate. There are also diversions on this stage (bridge-building) which add about 2/3 kms. It's the only stage where I felt a bit ropey but that was as much my own fault for getting lost.

 

[grayland]

Rachael.....
I recall seeing buses along much or most of the route. Taxis would be available most of the time but could be sketchy in some of the remote areas.
Preplanning should make it workable.

 

[mmm042]

I've always been able to find a taxi when needed. Many times it's informal -- someone in a small town who offers the service, if needed -- and sometimes I've had to hire one from a neighboring town, which costs a bit more. But I've never been unable to find transportation if I needed it.

Melanie

 

[C clearly]

Best wishes to your father-in-law. I am also finding these responses to be inspiring, as I was wondering if VDLP was too much for me. If he is willing to consider it, then I will too! I hope to see you both there!

 

[camino07]

Many others and myself included took taxis to the gates of the National Park on Day 3 to miss out the 15km highway walk so that would be an option for Granpa. It's then a beautiful walk through El Berrecal. There are opportunities to take bus transport at times. looking at my journal on day 14 we caught a bus from Aldeo del Cano to Caceres. Pouring with rain and to rest my blisters!
Day 18 took taxi in am from Canaveral to Grimaldo just 8 kms.
Day 19 got picked up by hospitalero from Olivia de Placencia 6kms and he dropped us back at Arc Caparra next am.
Day 20 were recommended to stay in Hervas so got picked up in Aldeneuva del Camino by wonderful hospitalero.Stayed 2 nights in his beautiful Albergue Turistica. Old Jewish quarter in town so interesting.
Day 22 short bus trip back to Camino in Banos de Montemayor
So you can see plenty of opportunities. Wow! It's great reading over the journal again,brought back so many memories .
Hope this helps a bit Rachael
Heather

 

[Luka]

Because the Via de la Plata stays most of the time pretty close tot the N630, a bus is not that hard too find. However they may be sceduled only three times a day or so.

About the stage from Castilblano de los Arroyos to Almadén de la Plata, roughly the first 16 kms is only roadwalk (a quiet road and still pretty beautiful). Because of that, there is a taxista that offers pilgrims a ride those first 16 kms. He drops you off at the beginning of the National Park. That makes the stage to Almadén only 13 kms (with a steep hill at the end indeed). I recall that the taxista charged 25 euros for a full taxi. I shared one with two other pilgrims.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

My recollection is similar to Paul's the Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almaden de la Plata is difficult either way and without any obvious public transport possibility.

As another bike pilgrim who stuck to the roads on the VdlP (except up the hill out of Banos) I would say that the main road alternative is the old N630 which was the main North-South road before the autovia was built with a wide hard shoulder.

The route is less interesting as a whole (though it has some of the greatest towns in Spain) than the CF with less pilgrims which may or may not matter if you are travelling as a family. You are right to say that in general it is flat but the sections from Guillena to Zafra is up and down and the day after Banos is very hilly.

If you are looking for a new experience it is a good route but perhaps not the best one for your father in law and really only in spring or autumn.

Look, I can't resist coming clean about my encounter with Calvario, the hill just before Almaden.
My first day out of Seville saw me reach Castilblanco without incident, and although it was very hot, June and high 30's I'd guess, I was feeling pretty good about my progress. I remember the bliss of a cold wash at that water pump, signposted in every language imaginable.

Anyway, the second day was equally hot, but the road to the gate of El Berrocal was easy, and the ride through the national park beautiful. Then came the abrupt stop at the foot of the climb. The track is very stony and cut by gullies. And very steep. From the bottom, you have no idea how far, or how high it goes because of the trees. Now, I'm getting on in years and there were two other things distinctly not in my favour. I have a problem with arthritic knees, and, would you believe I was wearing sandals, my only footwear.

I assessed the hill; there was zero possibility of my pushing the bike plus gear up the hill, so I took off the panniers and carried them fifty metres or so up the hill, put them under a tree and went back for the bike. After quite a sruggle I managed to reunite bike and bags, and began again. After two more such trips, I was still nowhere near the top, was in a state of utter exhaustion, my knees were screaming, and I had grave doubts that my sandals would hold together much longer, not to mention worries about water. I remember sitting there, feeling utterly miserable, in the shade of a tree, thinking that I was mad to have ever have thought I could do this.

After several minutes, I heard a noise, and was amazed to see a caballero coming up the hill on what seemed to be a huge horse. I should mention that this was the first person I'd seen the entire day, apart from passing cars. He stopped and looked down at this picture of abject misery, and began firing off a few sentences in that machine-gun Spanish, and of course I understood not a word.. I just looked at him, speechless. However, he then said a word I did understand "Bolsos", and motioned for me to hand up my bags, which I did, and then blow me he rode off up the hill muttering.
I sat there in some state of shock. I knew I didn't have the energy to push the bike any further. (Let me tell you, in these situations you find out very quickly how heavy and unweildy a mountain bike can be). But then, after a few minutes, another apparition! A young man, (obviously very fit), dressed in singlet and shorts, came RUNNING down the hill to me. He grabbed the bike and pushed it to the top where the caballero waited, with me rather shame-faced plodding behind.

How I wish I had known some Spanish beyond gracias, to express my gratitude those guys. Where the young man came from I've no idea, I just reflected on the fact that people say miracles happen on the camino.

 

[Al the optimist]

What a wonderful story that just exemplifies the truly caring and helpful nature of many Spaniards!

 

[domigee]

Yes, wonderful story ! Thank you

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola Paul - And people wonder why crazy foreigners from distant lands come to Spain. Your experiences are typical of many of us who have "come unstuck". I received similar assistance back in 2013 at Albergue del Embalse de Alcantara when I injured my foot. I am cycling the Frances this Sept and hope to return to the Silver Way in May 2016.
Kiwi - if you get a hold of Alison Raju's pocket size guide to the Camino Mozarabe (VdlP) she mentions the parts of the Camino that are not suitable for even mountain bikes and offers alternatives. You should be able to get a copy from the Confraternity of St James in the UK - my last edition was 2011 but there might be a later one out now. Buen Camino!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Hola Paul - And people wonder why crazy foreigners from distant lands come to Spain. Your experiences are typical of many of us who have "come unstuck". I received similar assistance back in 2013 at Albergue del Embalse de Alcantara when I injured my foot. I am cycling the Frances this Sept and hope to return to the Silver Way in May 2016.
Kiwi - if you get a hold of Alison Raju's pocket size guide to the Camino Mozarabe (VdlP) she mentions the parts of the Camino that are not suitable for even mountain bikes and offers alternatives. You should be able to get a copy from the Confraternity of St James in the UK - my last edition was 2011 but there might be a later one out now. Buen Camino!

Hi Mike
Do you remember Calvario?

 

[Kerrnell]

We walked from Salamanca to Benavente, bus to Orense and then walked to Santiago. About 250 km. You see the best of the flatlands with beautiful towns and then enjoy the cool green of the hills. This was in early September 2014. Easily achievable for many levels of fitness.

 

[camino-david]

Yes I remember that climb up to Almaden. I struggled to the top on a hot day (walking), and in the park on the right were a bunch of teenagers enjoying themselves, singing and talking. They had big vases of Sangria and they called out to me but I didn't understand the words but they made it pain that I was to sit down at one of the benches. Then they came to me with a big glass of Sangria, signing me to drink up. On finishing they gave me another, which refreshed me and gave me the energy to walk on to the albergue. Such casual acts of kindness from a bunch of teenagers makes walking a camino so wonderful.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Yes I remember that climb up to Almaden. I struggled to the top on a hot day (walking), and in the park on the right were a bunch of teenagers enjoying themselves, singing and talking. They had big vases of Sangria and they called out to me but I didn't understand the words but they made it pain that I was to sit down at one of the benches. Then they came to me with a big glass of Sangria, signing me to drink up. On finishing they gave me another, which refreshed me and gave me the energy to walk on to the albergue. Such casual acts of kindness from a bunch of teenagers makes walking a camino so wonderful.

Hi David,
There must be something special about this spot.
I must add that walking down this track into Almaden after 2 glasses of sangria deserves a medal!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Great story Paul (and enjoyable writing style too!)
So how far was the hill? And how steep? Any comparison with the hill after Castrojeriz perhaps?
The picture above looks rocky but not steep.

 

[AlanB]

Looking at that photo I think I walked up the wrong bit of the hill. I think I walked on the other side of the fence which was very sandy - difficult to get any purchase. I saw a brand new tent in its pack at the side of the track Someone had clearly given up carrying it.

 

[AlanB]

Kiwi-family. Very steep! Certainly the part I took. I reckon most people (I know I did) approach it 12-1pm after 27km of walking.Also, it's early on on the camino so most people aren't in tip-top condition. It's the perfect storm for a tough climb.At least with the hill after Castrojerez you can get it out of the way early doors.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Great story Paul (and enjoyable writing style too!)
So how far was the hill? And how steep? Any comparison with the hill after Castrojeriz perhaps?
The picture above looks rocky but not steep.

Hey, thank you.
In answer, the distance wasn't far, maybe 300 metres or so. I can't really qualify the "steep", except perhaps to say that it gets steeper with the telling. It would have been feasible but for the rocks. The picture is looking down the track on the other side. I don't have photos of the ascent, photography was definitely not a priority at the time!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Kiwi-family. Very steep! Certainly the part I took. I reckon most people (I know I did) approach it 12-1pm after 27km of walking.Also, it's early on on the camino so most people aren't in tip-top condition. It's the perfect storm for a tough climb.At least with the hill after Castrojerez you can get it out of the way early doors.

Thanks for your corroboration Alan!
At the time I did wonder if I'd taken the wrong track. It seemed so, what's the word, unreasonable.

 

[Juno]

Look, I can't resist coming clean about my encounter with Calvario, the hill just before Almaden.
My first day out of Seville saw me reach Castilblanco without incident, and although it was very hot, June and high 30's I'd guess, I was feeling pretty good about my progress. I remember the bliss of a cold wash at that water pump, signposted in every language imaginable.

Anyway, the second day was equally hot, but the road to the gate of El Berrocal was easy, and the ride through the national park beautiful. Then came the abrupt stop at the foot of the climb. The track is very stony and cut by gullies. And very steep. From the bottom, you have no idea how far, or how high it goes because of the trees. Now, I'm getting on in years and there were two other things distinctly not in my favour. I have a problem with arthritic knees, and, would you believe I was wearing sandals, my only footwear.

I assessed the hill; there was zero possibility of my pushing the bike plus gear up the hill, so I took off the panniers and carried them fifty metres or so up the hill, put them under a tree and went back for the bike. After quite a sruggle I managed to reunite bike and bags, and began again. After two more such trips, I was still nowhere near the top, was in a state of utter exhaustion, my knees were screaming, and I had grave doubts that my sandals would hold together much longer, not to mention worries about water. I remember sitting there, feeling utterly miserable, in the shade of a tree, thinking that I was mad to have ever have thought I could do this.

After several minutes, I heard a noise, and was amazed to see a caballero coming up the hill on what seemed to be a huge horse. I should mention that this was the first person I'd seen the entire day, apart from passing cars. He stopped and looked down at this picture of abject misery, and began firing off a few sentences in that machine-gun Spanish, and of course I understood not a word.. I just looked at him, speechless. However, he then said a word I did understand "Bolsos", and motioned for me to hand up my bags, which I did, and then blow me he rode off up the hill muttering.
I sat there in some state of shock. I knew I didn't have the energy to push the bike any further. (Let me tell you, in these situations you find out very quickly how heavy and unweildy a mountain bike can be). But then, after a few minutes, another apparition! A young man, (obviously very fit), dressed in singlet and shorts, came RUNNING down the hill to me. He grabbed the bike and pushed it to the top where the caballero waited, with me rather shame-faced plodding behind.

How I wish I had known some Spanish beyond gracias, to express my gratitude those guys. Where the young man came from I've no idea, I just reflected on the fact that people say miracles happen on the camino.

This made me laugh but also brought tears to my eyes! People can be amazing! Give people a hug says it in any language

 

[cajunun]

Many others and myself included took taxis to the gates of the National Park on Day 3 to miss out the 15km highway walk so that would be an option for Granpa. It's then a beautiful walk through El Berrecal. There are opportunities to take bus transport at times. looking at my journal on day 14 we caught a bus from Aldeo del Cano to Caceres. Pouring with rain and to rest my blisters!
Day 18 took taxi in am from Canaveral to Grimaldo just 8 kms.
Day 19 got picked up by hospitalero from Olivia de Placencia 6kms and he dropped us back at Arc Caparra next am.
Day 20 were recommended to stay in Hervas so got picked up in Aldeneuva del Camino by wonderful hospitalero.Stayed 2 nights in his beautiful Albergue Turistica. Old Jewish quarter in town so interesting.
Day 22 short bus trip back to Camino in Banos de Montemayor
So you can see plenty of opportunities. Wow! It's great reading over the journal again,brought back so many memories .
Hope this helps a bit Rachael
Heather

Heather, how did you contact the hospitalero from Olivia de Placencia and did he pick you up at the turn off to the track to OdP? Also, similarly with the hospitalero in Aldeneuva del Camino - how did you contact him to be collected?

 

[camino07]

Heather, how did you contact the hospitalero from Olivia de Placencia and did he pick you up at the turn off to the track to OdP? Also, similarly with the hospitalero in Aldeneuva del Camino - how did you contact him to be collected?

We booked the day before and were told to phone Monica from Venta Quemada if we wanted a lift. Her husband collected us and returned us to Caparra in the morning,or you can walk. Monica advised us to stay at the beautiful Albergue in Hervas (6kms off the camino) and she phoned Carlos the hospitalero and booked us in. We were to phone Carlos when we got to Aldenueva and he picked us up from the Hogar Pensionistas cafe. We stayed two rainy nights in Hervas to rest our crippled feet!! Loved that town!
Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

 

[dcorrea951]

Great story ..... once again, the Camino provides !!!!

 

[Anniesantiago]

I've walked from Sevilla to Caceres and to me, it's one of the easier Camino routes.
Not sure what happens from Caceres forward - hoping to finish that up this next season.

 

[Kiwi-family]

I've walked from Sevilla to Caceres and to me, it's one of the easier Camino routes.
Not sure what happens from Caceres forward - hoping to finish that up this next season.

I wonder if this is a message from God! Just this week Grandpa made the call that while it looks very interesting, he thinks it is unsuitable for him on a recumbent trike (he is unable to use an upright bike now with all the metalware holding his spine in place). He rightly states that although he could manage the distances (he's managing 42km now, admittedly on the flat), a path that is tricky on a mountian bike will be unpassable on a low and unmanouverable trike.
However he promptly went out and tried WALKING a 10km track with a significant hill. He survived. He is a bit despondent that it caused so much pain for the rest of the day, and fears he may have plateaued in his capabilities. My encouragement that he is now walking at 6km/hour and that even this path at 5.5km with its nasty climb is good going seems to have fallen on deaf ears. Oh that's right, he is virtually deaf now;-)
So Anniesantiago's comment is either going to give him cause for optimism or convince him the camino is out of his sights!