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How much road walking on the Camino Frances?

Jim_Hyde

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Walked Le Puy - Navarrenx April/May 2018 Planning to walk RLS Trail & GR78 Carcassonne - SJPDP 2020
I am starting next Tuesday 9th from Le Puy with the intention of walking through to Finistere, I know the french GR routes are fine but I am concerned about the amount of road walking after SJP. While I don't mind walking on country lanes there is no fun walking alongside busy roads. Is there alternate routes through the mountains?, I should get to SJP around the start of May so the weather should be improving.
 
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Between León and Astorga, my map shows two CF route variants, which diverge at La Virgen del Camino and recombine at Hospital de Órbigo.

I walked the northern branch because I understood it to offer a larger selection of lodging places. It was a separate footpath beside and somewhat close to a busy, noisy two lane highway. There was a lot of truck traffic. The footpath was safe and straightforward but I did not find those two days to be scenic or uplifting. Next time I will explore the southern branch, of which I have little knowledge.

You might wish to research the southern branch before you reach the bifurcation point in La Virgen del Camino.
 
Between León and Astorga, my map shows two CF route variants, which diverge at La Virgen del Camino and recombine at Hospital de Órbigo.

I walked the northern branch because I understood it to offer a larger selection of lodging places. It was a separate footpath beside and somewhat close to a busy, noisy two lane highway. There was a lot of truck traffic. The footpath was safe and straightforward but I did not find those two days to be scenic or uplifting. Next time I will explore the southern branch, of which I have little knowledge.

You might wish to research the southern branch before you reach the bifurcation point in La Virgen del Camino.

We walked the same way in May last year on a hot day and I recall there being no shade whatsoever. Most unpleasant. Eventually found a concrete shelter bus stop on a side road where we managed to cool down and take in some electrolytes before matters became more serious.
 
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The alternate route after Leon through Villa de Mazarife is nice. We really enjoyed that route. Some of it is road walking, but they are quiet roads. Most of the time you are on paths that cut across the countryside though.

Regarding road walking in general - it seems that most of the time, if it was a busy road, there was a gravel path next to the road for walking. If you were walking on the road itself, the roads were not heavily traveled. And there are some places where you can take alternate routes away from the road. We had Bierley's guide and they were usually shown. One that I am thinking about is the walk from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes, which is mostly along a straight gravel path next to a road. But, you can take an alternate route that follows a small river. The route is pretty much parallel to the road and sometimes you can still see the road, but you are a couple hundred meters away, with trees and nice paths. It adds a couple km, but the walk is very pretty.

Another section with a lot of road walking was just after Villafranca al Bierzo, heading up to O'Cebreiro - the main route is road, except the last 1/3 or so - but it isn't so busy since another highway was built to take the traffic. I think this section used to be sketchy, but now it is ok. And although it is road walking, you go up through a nice river valley, which is quite scenic and nice. But there is another route you can take out of Villafranca that kind of parallels the main route on paths and quieter roads - it climbs up out of the river valley, so you have more elevation gain, but it is an option to avoid the road if you want to.
 
I usually take the "green" alternative route where available. Most of the road walking along busy areas is in/out of the larger towns. I didn't feel that it was a larger percentage of the walk. Sometimes when we were on a country road, my feet welcomed the smooth payment over the gravel. Overall there are many different types of terrain and many beautiful trails.
 
I found the 'hardest' walking surfaces to be the roads and hard footpaths in and out of the major cities, Pamploma, Logrono, Burgos etc. I dont think there are many softer alternatives for those. They mess with you because of the noise, the traffic, the people, the activity. After walking in quiet country lanes and paths, the cities are quite an assault on the senses, and hard under your feet.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
The alternate route after Leon through Villa de Mazarife is nice. We really enjoyed that route. Some of it is road walking, but they are quiet roads. Most of the time you are on paths that cut across the countryside though.
Another section with a lot of road walking was just after Villafranca al Bierzo, heading up to O'Cebreiro - the main route is road, except the last 1/3 or so - but it isn't so busy since another highway was built to take the traffic.
We took both of these alternatives. What I liked most about the way to Mazarife was finally seeing wildflower meadows in addition to planted fields. The hill route out of Villafranca was sunny so if the day is really hot you may want to take the valley way in the morning because the hills will provide some shade. Take plenty of water up the hill route as there is none until you have descended to Trabadelo. There is a fountain in town marked as "water quality not guranteed" but the locals drink from it. That sign keeps them from having to periodically having the water tested.
 
As the guide books claim there are some main highways. Many times there are small dirt footpaths just adjacent to them to save your legs from pounding on the asphalt and/or concrete surfaces (Not to mention cars whizzing by!)
 
...
Another section with a lot of road walking was just after Villafranca al Bierzo, heading up to O'Cebreiro - the main route is road, except the last 1/3 or so - but it isn't so busy since another highway was built to take the traffic. I think this section used to be sketchy, but now it is ok. And although it is road walking, you go up through a nice river valley, which is quite scenic and nice. But there is another route you can take out of Villafranca that kind of parallels the main route on paths and quieter roads - it climbs up out of the river valley, so you have more elevation gain, but it is an option to avoid the road if you want to.
The walking path through the valley is indeed on tarmac but is divided from the vehicles (most of the way) by concrete fence. Therefore I'd say it's very safe and not noisy as already mentioned.

...The hill route out of Villafranca was sunny so if the day is really hot you may want to take the valley way in the morning because the hills will provide some shade. Take plenty of water up the hill route as there is none until you have descended to Trabadelo. There is a fountain in town marked as "water quality not guranteed" but the locals drink from it. That sign keeps them from having to periodically having the water tested.
Not true or it may depends on the time of year you were walking. There is an albergue with bar/restaurant in Pradela: https://www.gronze.com/castilla-y-leon/leon/pradela/albergue-lamas
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
According to Brierley’s guidebook, the Camino Frances is 66% path/track, 27% quiet road, and 7% main road.
Hope Ihave done this right - I read the questions and answers but have never submitted.

On the 10th day of Camino Portuguese I developed plantar fasciitis- I think it was from sidewalks and cobblestones on the last third. That hasn’t deterred me - I plan to do CF next spring. My husband and I are 76 and 81.
 
I found the 'hardest' walking surfaces to be the roads and hard footpaths in and out of the major cities, Pamploma, Logrono, Burgos etc. I dont think there are many softer alternatives for those. They mess with you because of the noise, the traffic, the people, the activity. After walking in quiet country lanes and paths, the cities are quite an assault on the senses, and hard under your feet.
This is so true. When I got to cities I wanted nothing more than to be shed of them. The funny thing is that we live in a city, and I enjoy living here, but on the Camino I yearned for the countryside.
 
Hope Ihave done this right - I read the questions and answers but have never submitted.

On the 10th day of Camino Portuguese I developed plantar fasciitis- I think it was from sidewalks and cobblestones on the last third. That hasn’t deterred me - I plan to do CF next spring. My husband and I are 76 and 81.

Yes, you posted correctly. Welcome to the forums!

I suffered from debilitating plantar fasciitis about five years ago. Very painful and it rendered me incapable of walking any significant distance.

I found the solution to be footwear with much better arch support. The affliction went away gradually, but completely. I have been symptom-free for years now, even when walking with my pack for very long distances on hard surfaces.

I offer the sincere hope and wish that you will overcome this obstacle, if you have not already done so, and that your next pilgrimage will be a wholehearted success.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
The alternative routes between La Virgen del Camino and Astorga through Villar de Mazarife is infinitely better than walking along the 'senda' beside the busy main road.
Similarly the alternative between Villarfranca del Bierzo and Trabeadela is a wonderful path high above the main road with few pilgrims and amazing views and in May the flowers cover the hillsides. The initial ascent from Villafranca is steep but short. Beware that the albergue/bar in Pradela is for sale so could be closed by now.
My advice is to walk the alternative routes if you physically can as they are quieter and more beautiful, such as Brierley's green route between Irache and Los Arcos via Luquin - amazing views, same distance as the normal route via Monjardin and only a bit higher and far more beautiful. Adequate arrows as well. Beware the bar in Luquin is always closed to my knowledge, but maybe open in the evenings.
 
The alternate route after Leon through Villa de Mazarife is nice. We really enjoyed that route. Some of it is road walking, but they are quiet roads. Most of the time you are on paths that cut across the countryside though.

Regarding road walking in general - it seems that most of the time, if it was a busy road, there was a gravel path next to the road for walking. If you were walking on the road itself, the roads were not heavily traveled. And there are some places where you can take alternate routes away from the road. We had Bierley's guide and they were usually shown. One that I am thinking about is the walk from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes, which is mostly along a straight gravel path next to a road. But, you can take an alternate route that follows a small river. The route is pretty much parallel to the road and sometimes you can still see the road, but you are a couple hundred meters away, with trees and nice paths. It adds a couple km, but the walk is very pretty.

Another section with a lot of road walking was just after Villafranca al Bierzo, heading up to O'Cebreiro - the main route is road, except the last 1/3 or so - but it isn't so busy since another highway was built to take the traffic. I think this section used to be sketchy, but now it is ok. And although it is road walking, you go up through a nice river valley, which is quite scenic and nice. But there is another route you can take out of Villafranca that kind of parallels the main route on paths and quieter roads - it climbs up out of the river valley, so you have more elevation gain, but it is an option to avoid the road if you want to.

Really useful information I've put these in my GPS, getting excited I start from Le Puy en Velay next Tuesday providing I can get there on Manday with the train strike.
 
Really useful information I've put these in my GPS, getting excited I start from Le Puy en Velay next Tuesday providing I can get there on Manday with the train strike.
Hi Jim, wishing you all the luck. Would you mind sharing your experience getting to Le Puy with the strike? I'll be getting there on the 23rd if everything goes well. I'm a little nervous because of the strike.
 
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The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
I got an email from SNCF yesterday saying tomorrows train from Lyon to St Etienne may be cancelled, nothing about the St Etiene to Le Puy train, I will look again at the SNCF web site after 5pm. As an insurance I have booked a space in a car via the Blabla Car web site for 13.75 euros from Lyon to Le Puy, this doesn't go until the evening but at least it will get me there and I'll get a refund from SNCF. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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