How-to guide to the Le Puy route

[andycohn]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

[Ivar edit January 2024: An updated version of this pdf file can be found here:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...or-oughta-wanna-know-before-starting-out.732/ ]

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

 

[Singingheart]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

Thank you! This couldn’t have been more timely. I’m just starting to consider the Le Puy route for my next Camino.

 

[Kitsambler]

Nice piece! You've answered many of the questions that prospective Le Puy walkers ask repeatedly on this forum.

Route-finding

I used the IPhiGenie app this year, the paid version which has detail down to the 166m scale. Absolutely invaluable and covers all the GR routes in France. Especially useful when, as you suggest, checking alternative routes for "cutting the corners" of those walk-around-three-sides-of-the-square sections.

 

[Felice]

I agree with almost everything that you have written, Andy. My only disagreement is over bed bugs! We woke in our gîte in Saugues to find the b*****s in our beds and under our pillows.

I walked the route in 3 stretches - Le Puy to Conques with my daughter last Sept, then Conques to Moissac in May this year and Moissac to SJPP in Sept, both times on my own. My French is more than adequate for practical purposes, but I can only hold a disjointed conversation. And therein lies my problem. For the first week this Sept, there were no Anglophone walkers and it was tough. At some evening meals, people would graciously speak slowly and clearly, to help me take part, but at other times, I was rapidly excluded and would end up eating my meal in silence, trying to pick out a word here and there - something which is hard when you are tired and hungry. On those occasions I would much rather have had a meal in a restaurant and read a book.

If your French is poor, I would advise you to think carefully before you walk on your own. Can you take the lack of conversation?

 

[andycohn]

I agree with almost everything that you have written, Andy. My only disagreement is over bed bugs! We woke in our gîte in Saugues to find the b*****s in our beds and under our pillows.

I walked the route in 3 stretches - Le Puy to Conques with my daughter last Sept, then Conques to Moissac in May this year and Moissac to SJPP in Sept, both times on my own. My French is more than adequate for practical purposes, but I can only hold a disjointed conversation. And therein lies my problem. For the first week this Sept, there were no Anglophone walkers and it was tough. At some evening meals, people would graciously speak slowly and clearly, to help me take part, but at other times, I was rapidly excluded and would end up eating my meal in silence, trying to pick out a word here and there - something which is hard when you are tired and hungry. On those occasions I would much rather have had a meal in a restaurant and read a book.

If your French is poor, I would advise you to think carefully before you walk on your own. Can you take the lack of conversation?

What can I say? Doo-doo happens, and bedbugs, too, no matter where you are. But still, the French were much more proactive about them than the Spanish, and unlike in Spain, we met up with no one who had a begbug problem.

Agree with you on the language barrier. My French seems to be about the level of yours, and we also found it the hardest the first week. Seemed like only French in the beginning, then more English speakers after that. However, we were with some friends for the first two weeks, so we didn't feel completely alone, and when they left to go back to work, we started meeting more Americans and other English speakers.

 

[MikeJS]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

Great info. However, I do not recognise your rather disparaging remarks about the food and hosts in Spain. I have never met a surly host in all of my caminos, and in fact have mostly found my spanish hosts to be very helpful. I have had some rather simple meals but then for 8 euros inc wine why would I expect better?

 

[Hansel]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

Good read Andy, I was walking in Portugal about the same time as you and your wife were walking in France, I started at Azambuja, and walked to Tui, so I still have the Portuguese to finish, but I'm very tempted to head to Le Puy instead, but most likely it will be as well,
Bill

 

[Hansel]

I agree with almost everything that you have written, Andy. My only disagreement is over bed bugs! We woke in our gîte in Saugues to find the b*****s in our beds and under our pillows.

I walked the route in 3 stretches - Le Puy to Conques with my daughter last Sept, then Conques to Moissac in May this year and Moissac to SJPP in Sept, both times on my own. My French is more than adequate for practical purposes, but I can only hold a disjointed conversation. And therein lies my problem. For the first week this Sept, there were no Anglophone walkers and it was tough. At some evening meals, people would graciously speak slowly and clearly, to help me take part, but at other times, I was rapidly excluded and would end up eating my meal in silence, trying to pick out a word here and there - something which is hard when you are tired and hungry. On those occasions I would much rather have had a meal in a restaurant and read a book.

If your French is poor, I would advise you to think carefully before you walk on your own. Can you take the lack of conversation?

Hi Felice,
I am looking at walking from Le Puy in two or three stints like you did, I maybe need to talk my daughter into walking with me, being Billy no mates at dinner is no fun, thanks for adding your reply,
How was the weather, in May and September ?
Bill

 

[Kitsambler]

If your French is poor, I would advise you to think carefully before you walk on your own. Can you take the lack of conversation?

My French is poorer than yours, yet I've managed to walk solo in France for five years. About a quarter of the MMDD lodging listings indicate English spoken there. The English speakers (that would be the Swiss, the Germans, the Dutch ... everyone but the French) seek these out, so they fill up fast. If walking during the high-season months of May and September, it pays to book by email weeks in advance.

 

[billmclaughlin]

Thanks for this brilliant writeup! Laughed out loud a few times.

Notes:
I found the Miam Miam Dodo app easier to work with than you. Definitely found the way to get a list of accommodations in just one town or section of the route.
Never had a problem finding a store open when I needed it, but I may just buy ahead by nature so I’m less likely to be caught short.
Agree about Conques: it’s the SJPP of France.
I also visited Rocamadour from Figeac and I’m surprised the the walk was 4 km. Maybe because it felt like a walk in the park after a half-day’s rest and terrain was the easiest.

Thanks again.
Bill

 

[HelenRose]

Read your information with great interest as currently planning our next Camino walk, after walking the Frances twice. Thank you for making it available to all.

 

[Deleted member 91558]

A great read Andy. Thanks for your insight. We're looking to walk the Le Puy route next year having done the Camino Portugues this year.

 

[lindam]

Thank you, andycohn, for writing this very informative report. It provides much food for thought. I have always shied away from walking Caminos outside the Iberian peninsula. I now have many reasons to reconsider walking the Le Puy route.

 

[KJFSophie]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

MERCI ! I love this and welcome your honest, well written, passionate post.
I am considering ( well, more than considering ) Geneva to LePuy for Sept of 2020, then LePuy to StJPP 2021. Though your write up doesn't directly speak to my closer trek from Geneva, it more or less confirms some of my impressions through research for France in general. I thank you.
Ultreia!

 

[Singingheart]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

Your guide is very, very helpful, but as I begin to dream of walking the Le Puy route, one question is niggling in the back of my mind. As background, I'm 77 and have walked the Frances, Portuguese and (just this fall) Ingles Camino, as well as out to Finisterre twice. And last year I walked the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk in northern England. I do fine with climbs and descents (there were plenty of those on the Ingles), and as long as I have my walking poles and keep my distance daily between 15 to 20 km, leaning toward the lesser number, I do fine. My problem is a phobia with "edges", or paths so steep as to require "scrambling". After the C2C walk, I vowed never again to put myself in that sort of situation, which leads to a panic attack. So my question is whether the difficulty of the Le Puy route involves either walking along edges or scrambling. If not, I'm all in. I love France and would rejoice in the chance to spend weeks there walking, eating French food, using the French that I know, and meeting other pilgrims, French and otherwise.

 

[andycohn]

Your guide is very, very helpful, but as I begin to dream of walking the Le Puy route, one question is niggling in the back of my mind. As background, I'm 77 and have walked the Frances, Portuguese and (just this fall) Ingles Camino, as well as out to Finisterre twice. And last year I walked the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk in northern England. I do fine with climbs and descents (there were plenty of those on the Ingles), and as long as I have my walking poles and keep my distance daily between 15 to 20 km, leaning toward the lesser number, I do fine. My problem is a phobia with "edges", or paths so steep as to require "scrambling". After the C2C walk, I vowed never again to put myself in that sort of situation, which leads to a panic attack. So my question is whether the difficulty of the Le Puy route involves either walking along edges or scrambling. If not, I'm all in. I love France and would rejoice in the chance to spend weeks there walking, eating French food, using the French that I know, and meeting other pilgrims, French and otherwise.

Don’t worry! If you’ve done the Coast to Coast (we did it in the spring ourselves) the Le Puy route will not present any challenges. There is nothing remotely like Striding Edge, or any place where you’re on a path so steep as to require scrambling. There are plenty of sections, especially in the first 10 days or so, where the trail is steep and rocky (more so than the caminos you mention in Spain), but nothing that presents any kind of unusual challenge, or is scary, or that approaches technical climbing. Nor will the climbing be as sustained as were those first few days through the Lake Country. Basically, you’ll recognize it more like a Spanish / Portuguese camino than you will the Coast to Coast. Just expect a few sections like the climb through the woods out of Ponte de Lima on the Portuguese, or the descent into Roncesvalles on the Frances.

 

[Singingheart]

Don’t worry! If you’ve done the Coast to Coast (we did it in the spring ourselves) the Le Puy route will not present any challenges. There is nothing remotely like Striding Edge, or any place where you’re on a path so steep as to require scrambling. There are plenty of sections, especially in the first 10 days or so, where the trail is steep and rocky (more so than the caminos you mention in Spain), but nothing that presents any kind of unusual challenge, or is scary, or that approaches technical climbing. Nor will the climbing be as sustained as were those first few days through the Lake Country. Basically, you’ll recognize it more like a Spanish / Portuguese camino than you will the Coast to Coast. Just expect a few sections like the climb through the woods out of Ponte de Lima on the Portuguese, or the descent into Roncesvalles on the Frances.

Thank you so much! Do you think it's safe for someone my age to do alone? I walked the Frances solo in 2015, but I had a companion on the Coast to Coast (10 years younger than me). I could never have done that on my own. There were places where my walking companion took my hand and helped me up treacherous spots. When I say safe, I'm referring to the walking/climbing part of it. I'd very much like to walk solo again.

 

[andycohn]

Don’t worry! If you’ve done the Coast to Coast (we did it in the spring ourselves) the Le Puy route will not present any challenges. There is nothing remotely like Striding Edge, or any place where you’re on a path so steep as to require scrambling. There are plenty of sections, especially in the first 10 days or so, where the trail is steep and rocky (more so than the caminos you mention in Spain), but nothing that presents any kind of unusual challenge, or is scary, or that approaches technical climbing. Nor will the climbing be as sustained as were those first few days through the Lake Country. Basically, you’ll recognize it more like a Spanish / Portuguese camino than you will the Coast to Coast. Just expect a few sections like the climb through the woods out of Ponte de Lima on the Portuguese, or the descent into Roncesvalles on the Frances.

Of course, I have no personal experience of being a woman and walking alone, but we certainly saw (and talked with) plenty of women walking alone, and none ever expressed any fear. Crime in rural France, certainly violent crime of any sort, seems a non-issue. I’ve occasionally read posts on the Camino Forum of women being hassled in Spain, but have not read similar posts about France. Since the whole experience in France feels more personal than in Spain (a broad generalization, I know) I actually think you'd find a lot of support in Frances for what you’re doing. Depending on when you go, of course, you’ll find less people on the trail, especially compared to the Frances or Portuguese. More like the Ingles, but more rural overall.

 

[Singingheart]

Of course, I have no personal experience of being a woman and walking alone, but we certainly saw (and talked with) plenty of women walking alone, and none ever expressed any fear. Crime in rural France, certainly violent crime of any sort, seems a non-issue. I’ve occasionally read posts on the Camino Forum of women being hassled in Spain, but have not read similar posts about France. Since the whole experience in France feels more personal than in Spain (a broad generalization, I know) I actually think you'd find a lot of support in Frances for what you’re doing. Depending on when you go, of course, you’ll find less people on the trail, especially compared to the Frances or Portuguese. More like the Ingles, but more rural overall.

It's not crime that I was referring to when I asked about being safe. I'm not at all concerned about that. I'm talking about the terrain. For example, on the walk to Finisterre last month, I had to cross a narrow log bridge with no railing, over a rushing stream. I was terrified and didn't think I could do it, because of my phobia, when another pilgrim came up behind me, put her hands on my backpack and told me that she wouldn't let me fall, allowing me to cross the bridge. I want to avoid that kind of situation, if at all possible. Crossing countless rushing streams on rocks on the Coast to Coast wasn't a problem, but on places where the trail was too steep to use my hiking poles, I was afraid of falling backwards. Does that make sense? I'm not proud of my fears, but there they are. Again, I can handle steep ascents and descents, as long as they are manageable with my hiking poles. Thank you so much for considering my concerns.

 

[KJFSophie]

Thank you so much! Do you think it's safe for someone my age to do alone? I walked the Frances solo in 2015, but I had a companion on the Coast to Coast (10 years younger than me). I could never have done that on my own. There were places where my walking companion took my hand and helped me up treacherous spots. When I say safe, I'm referring to the walking/climbing part of it. I'd very much like to walk solo again.

Pretty sure I'm not going to let you walk alone...lol ( though I've no doubt you're capable! )

 

[andycohn]

It's not crime that I was referring to when I asked about being safe. I'm not at all concerned about that. I'm talking about the terrain. For example, on the walk to Finisterre last month, I had to cross a narrow log bridge with no railing, over a rushing stream. I was terrified and didn't think I could do it, because of my phobia, when another pilgrim came up behind me, put her hands on my backpack and told me that she wouldn't let me fall, allowing me to cross the bridge. I want to avoid that kind of situation, if at all possible. Crossing countless rushing streams on rocks on the Coast to Coast wasn't a problem, but on places where the trail was too steep to use my hiking poles, I was afraid of falling backwards. Does that make sense? I'm not proud of my fears, but there they are. Again, I can handle steep ascents and descents, as long as they are manageable with my hiking poles. Thank you so much for considering my concerns.

I can’t remember any times on the trail where it was so steep that my wife and I couldn’t use hiking poles, or that we worried about falling over. They were just stiff uphill climbs, tiring sometimes but not dangerous. Nor do I rememmber crossing any narrow bridges over rushing (or any kind of) stream. There were bridges, and there were streams, but nothing that should induce fear at all. Of course, I’m not you and I know nothing of your experiences, so I can only talk about what my wife and I experienced.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Your guide is very, very helpful, but as I begin to dream of walking the Le Puy route, one question is niggling in the back of my mind. As background, I'm 77 and have walked the Frances, Portuguese and (just this fall) Ingles Camino, as well as out to Finisterre twice. And last year I walked the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk in northern England. I do fine with climbs and descents (there were plenty of those on the Ingles), and as long as I have my walking poles and keep my distance daily between 15 to 20 km, leaning toward the lesser number, I do fine. My problem is a phobia with "edges", or paths so steep as to require "scrambling". After the C2C walk, I vowed never again to put myself in that sort of situation, which leads to a panic attack. So my question is whether the difficulty of the Le Puy route involves either walking along edges or scrambling. If not, I'm all in. I love France and would rejoice in the chance to spend weeks there walking, eating French food, using the French that I know, and meeting other pilgrims, French and otherwise.

Hello, Singingheart,
I walked Le Puy to Auvillar in June of 2018. I too, have a fear of being near ledges, heights, drop offs, etc. I recall none of those things on the beautiful Le Puy route. It has some rather difficult ups and downs, but no cliffs of any kind that I recall. I hear the route flattens out after Auvillar so don't imagine there would be concerns for the remainder of the way.

 

[Singingheart]

I can’t remember any times on the trail where it was so steep that my wife and I couldn’t use hiking poles, or that we worried about falling over. They were just stiff uphill climbs, tiring sometimes but not dangerous. Nor do I rememmber crossing any narrow bridges over rushing (or any kind of) stream. There were bridges, and there were streams, but nothing that should induce fear at all. Of course, I’m not you and I know nothing of your experiences, so I can only talk about what my wife and I experienced.

Many thanks. That sounds doable then. Challenging but rewarding for having met the challenge. I do appreciate your input, and I

Hello, Singingheart,
I walked Le Puy to Auvillar in June of 2018. I too, have a fear of being near ledges, heights, drop offs, etc. I recall none of those things on the beautiful Le Puy route. It has some rather difficult ups and downs, but no cliffs of any kind that I recall. I hear the route flattens out after Auvillar so don't imagine there would be concerns for the remainder of the way.

I can't tell you how much that relieves me. Thank you so much!!!! I'm already in love with walking this route and would be crushed to be deterred by my fears. Part of the joy of walking Caminos for me is doing something that I would never have thought possible, especially at my age. It's incredibly empowering. Thank you again! Now I have to decide when to do it. I prefer autumn walks.

 

[rsmith0000]

Thank you, Andy Cohn, for the great write up!
Did you walk the Cele Valley alternate route and would you recommend it? I walked from Le Puy to Cahors in 2016 and am planning to walk from Figeac or Cahors to St Jean this April. I'm still trying to decide whether to go through the Cele Valley. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you, Andy Cohn, for the great write up!
Did you walk the Cele Valley alternate route and would you recommend it? I walked from Le Puy to Cahors in 2016 and am planning to walk from Figeac or Cahors to St Jean this April. I'm still trying to decide whether to go through the Cele Valley. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

I am not Andy, but I can add an enthusiastic voice for the Cele Valley alternative. It was just simply beautiful.

 

[andycohn]

Thank you, Andy Cohn, for the great write up!
Did you walk the Cele Valley alternate route and would you recommend it? I walked from Le Puy to Cahors in 2016 and am planning to walk from Figeac or Cahors to St Jean this April. I'm still trying to decide whether to go through the Cele Valley. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

And I am not Peregrina 2000, but she is one of the most trustworthy voices on this forum.

We did not walk it. We were thinking about it, and I can't quite remember my logic at the time of decision. Maybe we were just tired. Note that the regular MMD guidebook does not cover the variant. You'll need their separate guidebook to it, also available in app form.

As with most things on the camino, you can make a "game-day" decision -- based on your energy level, time available, companions you're with, weather forecast, etc. There are no bad choices.

And thanks for the praise!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am not Andy, but I can add an enthusiastic voice for the Cele Valley alternative. It was just simply beautiful.

Me, too! I absolutely loved the Cele variant and my friend and I were almost entirely by ourselves all day until we arrived at our gites day's end.
I hope to possibly repeat the Le Puy route in the fall with a Newbie, although not a "for sure" thing yet.

 

[rsmith0000]

Thank you, Peregrina 2000, Andy and Chrissy, for your replies. Much appreciated.

 

[David from Montana]

MERCI ! I love this and welcome your honest, well written, passionate post.
I am considering ( well, more than considering ) Geneva to LePuy for Sept of 2020, then LePuy to StJPP 2021. Though your write up doesn't directly speak to my closer trek from Geneva, it more or less confirms some of my impressions through research for France in general. I thank you.
Ultreia!

I hiked from LePuy to St Jean September October 2019, and plan to do you do Geneva to LePuy in 2020. Do you have any information....

 

[David from Montana]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

Wow, nice write-up! I would agree with almost everything! I walked this route Sept 25 through November 1st in 2019.... so I was a few days behind you two. Wonderful trip!!

I am planning on walking across Switzerland and the Geneva to LePuy sections this summer. Any good information.... there are new guidebooks for Switzerland but I have not found an English guidebook for the Genvea to LePuy section?

David

 

[Pamhikes]

Wow, nice write-up! I would agree with almost everything! I walked this route Sept 25 through November 1st in 2019.... so I was a few days behind you two. Wonderful trip!!

I am planning on walking across Switzerland and the Geneva to LePuy sections this summer. Any good information.... there are new guidebooks for Switzerland but I have not found an English guidebook for the Genvea to LePuy section?

David

Would love to hear your take on the Le Puy route in September. I’ve been hearing something about hunting season during that time. I’m booked to leave early September. Did you wild camp at all and is it even allowed? I can’t find info on this.

 

[andycohn]

Wow, nice write-up! I would agree with almost everything! I walked this route Sept 25 through November 1st in 2019.... so I was a few days behind you two. Wonderful trip!!

I am planning on walking across Switzerland and the Geneva to LePuy sections this summer. Any good information.... there are new guidebooks for Switzerland but I have not found an English guidebook for the Genvea to LePuy section?

David

David: I don't have any information on the route from Geneva, but if you click on the Forums tab, then scroll down to Routes in France, you'll find a whole bunch of threads devoted to the Geneva - Le Puy route.

 

[NavyBlue]

My problem is a phobia with "edges", or paths so steep as to require "scrambling". After the C2C walk, I vowed never again to put myself in that sort of situation, which leads to a panic attack. So my question is whether the difficulty of the Le Puy route involves either walking along edges or scrambling. If not, I'm all in.

Hi,

From Le Puy to SJPdP, the only place where I had to use my hands for one or two steps in some kind of "climbing" was at the exit of Cahors, a steep cliff next to the Pont Valentré (on the left of this picture). Walking on the road would avoid this section.

Getting out of Conques is also quite steep, but not comparable.



Note : I have not walked the Vallée du Celé and cannot comment about it.

 

[BlackRocker57]

Hi Felice,
I am looking at walking from Le Puy in two or three stints like you did, I maybe need to talk my daughter into walking with me, being Billy no mates at dinner is no fun, thanks for adding your reply,
How was the weather, in May and September ?
Bill

à propos «Billy no mates» at dinner ... despite my passable french, that has been my experience on one or two [or more] occasions every year that I have walked on the GR65 Via Podiensis ... no fun at all and often very disappointing ... thankfully it hasn’t been the rule

 

[BlackRocker57]

Wow, nice write-up! I would agree with almost everything! I walked this route Sept 25 through November 1st in 2019.... so I was a few days behind you two. Wonderful trip!!

I am planning on walking across Switzerland and the Geneva to LePuy sections this summer. Any good information.... there are new guidebooks for Switzerland but I have not found an English guidebook for the Genvea to LePuy section?

David

I don’t think that there is one but the yellow guide [guide jaune] published by the Association Rhone-Alpes des Amis Saint-Jacques uses lots of icons so is passable and more than useful for its detailed information. New edition will be published next February ...

weblink to the flyer here :
<https://boutique.amis-st-jacques-ara.com/telechargement/flyers/flyer_guide_jaune.pdf>

 

[Lupo]

I'm looking for Via Podiensis GPS tracks. There used to be good ones on the Gronze website, but they don't have them online anymore. Maybe somebody downloaded them before and can share them?

 

[andycohn]

I'm looking for Via Podiensis GPS tracks. There used to be good ones on the Gronze website, but they don't have them online anymore. Maybe somebody downloaded them before and can share them?

You can find the tracks on the newly-available Gronze Maps app. for android. The app. is not yet available for iphones, but you can still install Gronze Maps through a somewhat longer procedure. Here's instructions: https://www.gronze.com/gronze-maps. Note that you have to be online, however, to use the track. A nice feature of Gronze maps is that it shows you all the lodgings in relation to the map, with links to further information about each one.

For basic navigation, however, as I said in my guide, I prefer to use the app. mapy.cz, available for android or iphone. The Le Puy route, along with every other camino and hiking trail in the world, is already on there so you don't have to download anything further. You can also use it to track your progress, or to plan possible alternatives. You can also use the app and all its maps off-line simply by downloading the region you're in, which is simple to do on the app. itself.

Both are good!

 

[Lupo]

I installed the gronze app, but prefer a different app where I normally import gpx files. So if somebody still has the gronze gpx files, I really would prefer these.

 

[BlackRocker57]

I installed the gronze app, but prefer a different app where I normally import gpx files. So if somebody still has the gronze gpx files, I really would prefer these.

try Wikiloc ... hundreds of traces there for each stage of the Via Podiensis or AllTrails

 

[Chrisp]

It's not crime that I was referring to when I asked about being safe. I'm not at all concerned about that. I'm talking about the terrain. For example, on the walk to Finisterre last month, I had to cross a narrow log bridge with no railing, over a rushing stream. I was terrified and didn't think I could do it, because of my phobia, when another pilgrim came up behind me, put her hands on my backpack and told me that she wouldn't let me fall, allowing me to cross the bridge. I want to avoid that kind of situation, if at all possible. Crossing countless rushing streams on rocks on the Coast to Coast wasn't a problem, but on places where the trail was too steep to use my hiking poles, I was afraid of falling backwards. Does that make sense? I'm not proud of my fears, but there they are. Again, I can handle steep ascents and descents, as long as they are manageable with my hiking poles. Thank you so much for considering my concerns.

Your guide is very, very helpful, but as I begin to dream of walking the Le Puy route, one question is niggling in the back of my mind. As background, I'm 77 and have walked the Frances, Portuguese and (just this fall) Ingles Camino, as well as out to Finisterre twice. And last year I walked the Wainwright Coast to Coast walk in northern England. I do fine with climbs and descents (there were plenty of those on the Ingles), and as long as I have my walking poles and keep my distance daily between 15 to 20 km, leaning toward the lesser number, I do fine. My problem is a phobia with "edges", or paths so steep as to require "scrambling". After the C2C walk, I vowed never again to put myself in that sort of situation, which leads to a panic attack. So my question is whether the difficulty of the Le Puy route involves either walking along edges or scrambling. If not, I'm all in. I love France and would rejoice in the chance to spend weeks there walking, eating French food, using the French that I know, and meeting other pilgrims, French and otherwise.

Oh Kathy, I am so with you and know exactly what you are talking about! Hope you are still out there walking in lovely places away from edges that make your heart thump!

 

[Chrisp]

My wife and I just returned from doing the Le Puy route in France. We loved it, but it was much different from the Spanish caminos. Before we went, I couldn't find any one source that described the route in general, accommodations, food, internal transportation, making reservations, etc. -- all the little things that are useful to know before setting out -- so I wrote something up when we returned. It's not a step by step guide, or a bunch of recommendations, but more of a logistics guide to how to do the route. Beyond a general introduction to the route itself and a description of the terrain, here's the topics covered:

Route-finding
Guidebooks
Accommodations
Food
Winging it or making reservations
Your fellow travelers, the social thing, and the language barrier.
Money
Lunch stops, rest days, and potty breaks
Baggage and personal transport
Getting from place to place and to your start and end points
When to go.

It is attached, if anyone is interested. If you read it, all comments, suggestions, corrections, disagreements, and further questions are welcome.

Ultreia!

[Ivar edit January 2024: An updated version of this pdf file can be found here:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...or-oughta-wanna-know-before-starting-out.732/ ]

(After I wrote this, Chloe Rose's post and previous guidebook dated August, 17, 2016 popped up under "Older Threads on this Topic." I hadn't seen it before, and it's very nicely done).

Thank you so much Andy for your very comprehensive Guide to Le Puy. You have put in so much effort and it is really appreciated as we try and plan our walk for August 2024. I now have a much better picture of what to expect for my 4th Camino

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi,

From Le Puy to SJPdP, the only place where I had to use my hands for one or two steps in some kind of "climbing" was at the exit of Cahors, a steep cliff next to the Pont Valentré (on the left of this picture). Walking on the road would avoid this section.

Getting out of Conques is also quite steep, but not comparable.

Note : I have not walked the Vallée du Celé and cannot comment about it.

I too, have a fear of heights, and always stay away from edges as best I can. My only two memories that came to mind to answer the question are the same two you have mentioned. I have walked the Cele variant and do not recall any extreme cliffs.

 

[Kitsambler]

I too, have a fear of heights, and always stay away from edges as best I can.

This is because gravity is non-linear: it will reach around corners and over edges, grab you by the ankles, and haul you down. I'm convinced, and have the scars to prove it.