I Don't Really Like Leon but Mazarife?

[scruffy1]

Leon is far too large and bustling for my taste, especially after several weeks of hamlets, villages, and towns. I like the cathedral, I love San Isodoro, the old guys playing pentanque (a form of boules for the uninitiated-no I don't want to begin an argument here-boules may indeed be a form of pentanque!), and the mozarabic ceiling in the parador which should not be missed! Saying that, this parador is a favorite stopover for important guests, politicians and diplomats. State security seems to have great difficulties in discerning between anarchists, Basque separatists, Catalunyian nationalists, and pilgrims– you may be give the evil eye when approaching.
Leon is the only place I have witnessed theft from a pilgrim and that within the walls of Santa Maria de Carbajalas albergue-a warm welcome always but the inside is horrific-far too many pilgrims stacked like cordwood! Leon has been a place of separation for me, often friends turning back, others warping forward by way of bus, others simply disappearing into the crowds. Disappearing but after our good bye celebration. Part of my dislike for Leon may be tempered by the state of my head that following morning. The walkout from Leon is not a Camino scenic route, perhaps there is a pilgrim who enjoys passing by countless hairdressers, petrol stations, new and used furniture emporiums, hardware and ironmongers, garages and used car dealers-I haven't met them. Twice I have jump started this stage with a city bus to Virgen del Camino somehow arriving in Mazarife by early afternoon despite throbbing head and a slowdown strike by my feet! I was twice warmly welcomed at Tio Pepe and survived. The Tio Pepe albergue is good enough but nothing to write home about, the food there, the same.
I would welcome to hear any experience concerning the other two albergues in Mazarife, my October "assault" on the Camino is in planning!

 

[VNwalking]

I loved San Antonio de Padua...a highlight of 2 caminos (the first time I walked on to Hospital de Orbigo after lunch there...the second time I was more sensible and stayed). The welcome is warm and the food there is vegetarian, generous, and a delicious change from the usual.

 

[scruffy1]

I loved San Antonio de Padua...a highlight of 2 caminos (the first time I walked on to Hospital de Orbigo after lunch there...the second time I was more sensible and stayed). The welcome is warm and the food there is vegetarian, generous, and a delicious change from the usual.

Thanks!

 

[clearskiescamino]

I've stayed in Leon three times over the years and love it. It's nice to "mix-n-match" things up though. I am just back from walking a stretch and while I stayed in Leon, I walked through Mazarife to Villavante. I stayed in Mazarife for a few hours and I'm sure I'll stay there next time I wander on the Camino Frances.

 

[frasert]

I actually liked the walk out of Leon !
Met some interesting pilgrims and even though it was city outskirts there were some interesting sights. Then the second part to Mazarife was rural and quiet.
I had an unwritten rule of no taxis, buses or trains as I knew once I did it once.....
Agree Tio Pepe was lovely. I heard that the other two albergues were ok too.

 

[Mark Lee]

On my first Camino I missed a turn or something out of Leon and ended up in San Martin del Camino. That was a nice little town. It's kind of parallel and a bit past Vilar de Mazarife.

 

[Mycamino Maya]

Leon is far too large and bustling for my taste, especially after several weeks of hamlets, villages, and towns. I like the cathedral, I love San Isodoro, the old guys playing pentanque (a form of boules for the uninitiated-no I don't want to begin an argument here-boules may indeed be a form of pentanque!), and the mozarabic ceiling in the parador which should not be missed! Saying that, this parador is a favorite stopover for important guests, politicians and diplomats. State security seems to have great difficulties in discerning between anarchists, Basque separatists, Catalunyian nationalists, and pilgrims– you may be give the evil eye when approaching.
Leon is the only place I have witnessed theft from a pilgrim and that within the walls of Santa Maria de Carbajalas albergue-a warm welcome always but the inside is horrific-far too many pilgrims stacked like cordwood! Leon has been a place of separation for me, often friends turning back, others warping forward by way of bus, others simply disappearing into the crowds. Disappearing but after our good bye celebration. Part of my dislike for Leon may be tempered by the state of my head that following morning. The walkout from Leon is not a Camino scenic route, perhaps there is a pilgrim who enjoys passing by countless hairdressers, petrol stations, new and used furniture emporiums, hardware and ironmongers, garages and used car dealers-I haven't met them. Twice I have jump started this stage with a city bus to Virgen del Camino somehow arriving in Mazarife by early afternoon despite throbbing head and a slowdown strike by my feet! I was twice warmly welcomed at Tio Pepe and survived. The Tio Pepe albergue is good enough but nothing to write home about, the food there, the same.
I would welcome to hear any experience concerning the other two albergues in Mazarife, my October "assault" on the Camino is in planning!

After having a nice lunch in Leon, we continued our walk to Virgen de Camino and the municipal alberque was one of the nicest ones we stayed at.

 

[tpmchugh]

I loved San Antonio de Padua...a highlight of 2 caminos (the first time I walked on to Hospital de Orbigo after lunch there...the second time I was more sensible and stayed). The welcome is warm and the food there is vegetarian, generous, and a delicious change from the usual.

I second that. Wish I had not listened to Brierley and went Villadangas this time. I was just too curious as to why he had changed his recommended route and wondered did this route have something to offer. The answer was absolutely nothing. Mazarife and San Anton albergue the only way to go

 

[Sheesh]

On a bitterly cold and windy day in May 2013, I stayed at Albergue San Antonio de Padua in Mazarife, on the right as you come into town, arriving around 2:30. There was one VERY large room with about 25 bunks, so sleeping for 50, and a couple of other private rooms directly off this main one with sleeping for a half dozen or so. I believe those smaller rooms had been pre-booked by either families or groups, but I didn’t get a look inside. Some of the bunks in the large room were right up against each other lengthwise, not so much as an inch in between. That’s too cosy for my liking, so I was very glad I was able to nab a lone top bunk by the wall. Not all the bunks had ladders either. I secured my moveable ladder with my bandana.

I remember one of the washrooms opened directly on to this large room, and the door made quite a clang every time someone entered or exited.

But the evening meal in the downstairs dining room was really good and served by some lovely wait staff and cooks. There was a wonderful ensalada mixta to start, then a yummy paella, finished off with a superior postre of folded pancake topped with fresh fruit and a drizzle of chocolate.

On the lawn outside the Albergue were a row of deck chairs under cover. They just about took off down the street in the wind that day, but in nicer weather would have been a great place to soak up some zzzz’s.

This was the one day I did not do any washing, I was just too frozen from the walk coming in, so I can’t comment on what the laundry area was like.

That evening to warm myself up I sat in the bar at Tio Pepes and downed several ounces of Patxaran.

So, not the best Albergue I stayed in by any means, but not the worst either. If I stayed there again I would want to get there earlyish to avoid one of the “cosy” beds or one near that washroom door, and ear plugs are a must.

 

[MTtoCamino]

Interesting posts, Leon was different enough that I rather enjoyed it. But the walk in & out is an adventure. My next I will walk north to Ovideo then over.

 

[scruffy1]

On a bitterly cold and windy day in May 2013, I stayed at Albergue San Antonio de Padua in Mazarife, on the right as you come into town, arriving around 2:30. There was one VERY large room with about 25 bunks, so sleeping for 50, and a couple of other private rooms directly off this main one with sleeping for a half dozen or so. I believe those smaller rooms had been pre-booked by either families or groups, but I didn’t get a look inside. Some of the bunks in the large room were right up against each other lengthwise, not so much as an inch in between. That’s too cosy for my liking, so I was very glad I was able to nab a lone top bunk by the wall. Not all the bunks had ladders either. I secured my moveable ladder with my bandana.

I remember one of the washrooms opened directly on to this large room, and the door made quite a clang every time someone entered or exited.

But the evening meal in the downstairs dining room was really good and served by some lovely wait staff and cooks. There was a wonderful ensalada mixta to start, then a yummy paella, finished off with a superior postre of folded pancake topped with fresh fruit and a drizzle of chocolate.

On the lawn outside the Albergue were a row of deck chairs under cover. They just about took off down the street in the wind that day, but in nicer weather would have been a great place to soak up some zzzz’s.

This was the one day I did not do any washing, I was just too frozen from the walk coming in, so I can’t comment on what the laundry area was like.

That evening to warm myself up I sat in the bar at Tio Pepes and downed several ounces of Patxaran.

So, not the best Albergue I stayed in by any means, but not the worst either. If I stayed there again I would want to get there earlyish to avoid one of the “cosy” beds or one near that washroom door, and ear plugs are a must.

Thanks!

 

[Bernard duffy]

I loved Leon hated the walk out of it,ran out of water and had a pretty miserable day in general,here's to Sept n doing it all again

 

[Icacos]

I'm sure it was while leaving León that we happened upon a tiny white church on the right. The church was open because there was a Mass just about to start or the Mass was just over, I don't recall, but it was lovely to go in for a few moments and offer up a prayer of gratitude for being on the Camino.

 

[waveprof]

I actually liked the walk out of Leon !
Met some interesting pilgrims and even though it was city outskirts there were some interesting sights. Then the second part to Mazarife was rural and quiet.
I had an unwritten rule of no taxis, buses or trains as I knew once I did it once.....
Agree Tio Pepe was lovely. I heard that the other two albergues were ok too.

We had the only fight of our camino leaving Leon, and it was the biggest of our entire marriage. My wife (seriously) referenced divorce. And this from a couple who usually doesn't fight at all.

But Tio Pepe's for dinner was so amazing that our Camino was back on track by the next day. That is quite the recommendation IMO!

We didn't stay at Tio Pepes though, we stayed at the albuergue to the right as you come into town. We had a private room but were kept awake all night by a man snoring in the next room. And my bed collapsed under me at 3 am in the morning when I dared roll over in my sleep. I mean like completely collapsed....



PS: I love Leon. But taste is arbitrary. But I am more troubled by the idea it is too "big" or "modern" for the Camino. The Camino travels through (and always has) a diverse mix of urban and rural, modernized (for the time) and unmodernized. The tourist shops lining the streets of Leon are no less authentically Camino worthy than are the Basque mountainsides.