I have caught the Camino Bug.

[Geoff Shepherd]

OK, back home 1week now after completing my first CF from SJPdP, followed by 4 days R&R in lovely SdC (dropped in and said Hi/thanks to Ivar). I have caught the bug - not just the gastro bug which lurked somewhere between Carrión and León, I caught that too - I mean the ‘Camino Bug’. Already planning my next Camino and I am interested in the Portugues route. I have looked in the Resources Section and on various tourist/map/weather web-sites etc. I can gather ‘the facts’ from them, but what I hope to get from this wonderful forum is a bit of personal advice from those of you who have done the whole route from Lisbon.

Specifically: 1. Is the section Lisbon to Porto worth doing? I have read that one-third of it is on/alongside roads and friends who caught the train Porto to Lisbon said that the countryside looked fairly flat, open/bare and uninteresting. The other option is to start in Porto and add on the Muxia/Finnestere triangle (I did not do this after my CF) which would make it a decent distance/time. I am not looking to set any distance records but just 250km/10 days Porto-SdC is not enough as I will be travelling from Australia and need to make it a substantial Camino ‘for value’. I am happy with the collective forum advice re the coastal v inland paths on the Porto-SdC route.
2. When to go? I have a mid-May19 start in mind. I again look forward very much to the personal interactions a’la the CF, but I don’t want to be in the peak-Perigrino season. The shoulder season is my preference. Are there ‘enough’ fellow pilgrims around that time - but not ‘too many’ (all this is very subjective I understand)? I understand that there is a bit of rain in May, but is it ‘too much’ and a pain? Again, very subjective I know. Time and ‘when’ are not limiting factors as I am mostly retired and can generally please myself (with my wife’s permission of course!), but I am not getting any younger and do not want to wait years to do my next Camino - I waited too long to do the first one.

Summary of my CF, if anyone is interested: Started SJPdP 20 Sep, finished SdC 18 Oct with 1 rest/sick day in León due to the above gastro bug. Zero blisters (Altra Lone Peak 3.5 trail runners), but did get a manageable L leg shin splint and had a huge attack by hungry bed bugs - over 20 bites in one night (unfortunately not exactly sure where as they took a few days to come up into lumps). So I have my honourable ‘battle-scars. Had a goodly number of wonderful Camino-family mates, both men and ladies, of all ages/nationalities/perspectives and throughly enjoyed the Albergue and Camino culture. Very impressed with northern Spain, but (no doubt as very many of you might think also) I thought Galacia ‘the best’ - not that I’m giving scores. Weather was wonderful throughout - only 2 wet mornings with warm to hot first 2 weeks then cool to warm last 2. Finished 2 weeks early than planned, but enjoyed the walking challenge and the spiritual aspects equally. Took around 2000 photos - a very photogenic Camino.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
Cooee
Shep

 

[andycohn]

We had the same feeling. We wanted a longer Camino, but the stretch from Lisbon to Porto didn’t sound exciting, so we walked from Porto to SDC, then took a bus the next morning to Oviedo, and walked the Primitivo back to SDC. The Portuguese from Porto was pretty easy, but it was a nice warm-up for the Primitivo, which was spectacular. IMHO. For us, about 25 days walking altogether.

 

[Mark T17]

Hi Shep,

Just another option, maybe try to get a flight to Portugal via Japan and do the Kumano Kodo - 80km / 4 days / heaps of hills south of Osaka. Its the only other world heritage listed pilgrimage in the world and you would be a certified dual pilgrim (there's only about 200 of us in Australia). Its a Buddhist pilgrimage, off the roads with a similar infrastructure to the Camino, they have a similar forum and I think you would enjoy it. See: http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en

MT (Sydney)

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

We had the same feeling. We wanted a longer Camino, but the stretch from Lisbon to Porto didn’t sound exciting, so we walked from Porto to SDC, then took a bus the next morning to Oviedo, and walked the Primitivo back to SDC. The Portuguese from Porto was pretty easy, but it was a nice warm-up for the Primitivo, which was spectacular. IMHO. For us, about 25 days walking altogether.

Thanks for that. Sounds like a good option - I had not thought if that. Will have a look into it. Good luck to you. Cooee

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

Hi Shep,

Just another option, maybe try to get a flight to Portugal via Japan and do the Kumano Kodo - 80km / 4 days / heaps of hills south of Osaka. Its the only other world heritage listed pilgrimage in the world and you would be a certified dual pilgrim (there's only about 200 of us in Australia). Its a Buddhist pilgrimage, off the roads with a similar infrastructure to the Camino, they have a similar forum and I think you would enjoy it. See: http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en

MT (Sydney)

Yes I have heard of the Kumano trail. But I feel that there is still ‘unfinished business’ in Spain/Portugal for me. I spend a lot of time in Asia each year and I found the change of location/culture in Spain wonderful. Will keep Japan in the back pocket until later. All the best. Cooee

 

[HeidiL]

1. Is the section Lisbon to Porto worth doing?

YES! I really liked that section, especially the stretches along the sea and the wooden walkway over the sand dunes.

There ARE stretches alond the road, but not that bad.

And the food, of course, was spectacular (if you like fish) - not CF-style pilgrim lunches at all.

 

[Stivandrer]

so sorry... there is no cure....

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

1. Is the section Lisbon to Porto worth doing?

YES! I really liked that section, especially the stretches along the sea and the wooden walkway over the sand dunes.

There ARE stretches alond the road, but not that bad.

And the food, of course, was spectacular (if you like fish) - not CF-style pilgrim lunches at all.

Thanks Heidi - especially about the good grub. That was a slightly disappointing aspect of the CF I agree. All the best to you. Cooee

 

[jsalt]

1. Is the section Lisbon to Porto worth doing?

YES! I really liked that section, especially the stretches along the sea and the wooden walkway over the sand dunes.

Hi Heidi, which stretches are those, between Lisbon and Porto?
Thanks,
Jill

 

[Gail Dickson]

OK, back home 1week now after completing my first CF from SJPdP, followed by 4 days R&R in lovely SdC (dropped in and said Hi/thanks to Ivar). I have caught the bug - not just the gastro bug which lurked somewhere between Carrión and León, I caught that too - I mean the ‘Camino Bug’. Already planning my next Camino and I am interested in the Portugues route. I have looked in the Resources Section and on various tourist/map/weather web-sites etc. I can gather ‘the facts’ from them, but what I hope to get from this wonderful forum is a bit of personal advice from those of you who have done the whole route from Lisbon.

Specifically: 1. Is the section Lisbon to Porto worth doing? I have read that one-third of it is on/alongside roads and friends who caught the train Porto to Lisbon said that the countryside looked fairly flat, open/bare and uninteresting. The other option is to start in Porto and add on the Muxia/Finnestere triangle (I did not do this after my CF) which would make it a decent distance/time. I am not looking to set any distance records but just 250km/10 days Porto-SdC is not enough as I will be travelling from Australia and need to make it a substantial Camino ‘for value’. I am happy with the collective forum advice re the coastal v inland paths on the Porto-SdC route.
2. When to go? I have a mid-May19 start in mind. I again look forward very much to the personal interactions a’la the CF, but I don’t want to be in the peak-Perigrino season. The shoulder season is my preference. Are there ‘enough’ fellow pilgrims around that time - but not ‘too many’ (all this is very subjective I understand)? I understand that there is a bit of rain in May, but is it ‘too much’ and a pain? Again, very subjective I know. Time and ‘when’ are not limiting factors as I am mostly retired and can generally please myself (with my wife’s permission of course!), but I am not getting any younger and do not want to wait years to do my next Camino - I waited too long to do the first one.

Summary of my CF, if anyone is interested: Started SJPdP 20 Sep, finished SdC 18 Oct with 1 rest/sick day in León due to the above gastro bug. Zero blisters (Altra Lone Peak 3.5 trail runners), but did get a manageable L leg shin splint and had a huge attack by hungry bed bugs - over 20 bites in one night (unfortunately not exactly sure where as they took a few days to come up into lumps). So I have my honourable ‘battle-scars. Had a goodly number of wonderful Camino-family mates, both men and ladies, of all ages/nationalities/perspectives and throughly enjoyed the Albergue and Camino culture. Very impressed with northern Spain, but (no doubt as very many of you might think also) I thought Galacia ‘the best’ - not that I’m giving scores. Weather was wonderful throughout - only 2 wet mornings with warm to hot first 2 weeks then cool to warm last 2. Finished 2 weeks early than planned, but enjoyed the walking challenge and the spiritual aspects equally. Took around 2000 photos - a very photogenic Camino.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
Cooee
Shep

Did the Portugese from Lisbon and on to Muxia in April/May this year. Loved every day although there was a bit of rain. Found the section particularly from Lisbon to Porto very inexpensive. Food much more interesting than the CF. Would not hesitate to do it again. I

 

[Gail Dickson]

Did the Portugese from Lisbon and on to Muxia in April/May this year. Loved every day although there was a bit of rain. Found the section particularly from Lisbon to Porto very inexpensive. Food much more interesting than the CF. Would not hesitate to do it again. I

I don't recall it being exceptionally flat at all.

 

[jimmyc]

I walked the Portuguese from Lisbon in 2016 and loved it. I cannot understand why anyone would want to miss this section. Some may have time constraints but if this is not a problem for you, go for the longer walk.

 

[HeidiL]

Re questions upstream, I really don't remember - I don't take notes and tend to just go with the flow. About three and five days out from Lisbon, I think?

 

[jsalt]

Re questions upstream, I really don't remember - I don't take notes and tend to just go with the flow. About three and five days out from Lisbon, I think?

Hi Heidi, it's just that there are no stretches by the sea, and no sand dunes, between Lisbon and Porto, so I'm confused about where you mean .
Jill

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

I don't recall it being exceptionally flat at all.

Gail - many thanks for your advice. I am keen to do the whole route so you have definitely tilted me towards that.

All the best. Cooee

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

I walked the Portuguese from Lisbon in 2016 and loved it. I cannot understand why anyone would want to miss this section. Some may have time constraints but if this is not a problem for you, go for the longer walk.

Thanks jimmyc - I am definitely leaning towards the whole route now.

Good luck to you. Cooee

 

[alexwalker]

I have caught the bug - not just the gastro bug which lurked somewhere between Carrión and León, I caught that too - I mean the ‘Camino Bug’.

Welcome to the club.

Specifically: 1. Is the section Lisbon to Porto worth doing?

I
No. It was hard walking on asphalt and poor pilgrim infrastructure. Stay away.

From Porto it is a nice and peaceful walk. But most of it is on cobblestones, so it will take its toll on your feet. But it is a very nice Camino, and I will do it again,\. But from Porto, not Lisboa...

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

Welcome to the club.

I
No. It was hard walking on asphalt and poor pilgrim infrastructure. Stay away.

From Porto it is a nice and peaceful walk. But most of it is on cobblestones, so it will take its toll on your feet. But it is a very nice Camino, and I will do it again,\. But from Porto, not Lisboa...

Thanks alexwalker for the input. I am of 2 minds now. Maybe the Porto -SdC then the Muxia Fisterra triangle will be enough. That would be 450-500km and day 3 weeks. Good luck to you. Cooee

 

[Susan Peacock]

Walked from Porto to Santiago in September and then on to Finisterre and Muxia. The pilgrims we met along the way who had walked from Lisbon were not very complimentary of that section and I felt we had probably made the right decision. We left Porto and walked along the Duro river until it meets the sea and then walked up to Vila de Conde before cutting back to the central route. At Pontevedra we left the central route for 3 days and walked the Espiritual Variant which was our favorite. We then joined back with the central route after taking the boat to Padron. I will say that if you haven’t walked to Finisterre/Muxia you should definitely do it.... it is a wonderful walk. I have awesome weather and ended up hanging in Finisterre for four days. Relaxed does not begin to describe how I felt at the end of my Camino. Admittedly, the beautiful weather contributed to this experience and is not something I have had a previous Camino’s.

 

[Elle Bieling]

@geoff Sheperd, I loved the entire way from Lisbon to Porto. The cities of Santarem, Tomar and Coimbra are fascinating. Yes, there is pavement and cobblestone, but for me, it was worth it. We did it in April and while in the south it was quite warm, it gets cooler as you head north to the mountains. It is quite hilly in Portugal, so don't be fooled! My only regret is not adding the day from Tomar to Fatima (30 km). Wish I had done that too! Here is my blog with loads of pictures so you can see and judge for yourself. Some love this section, others hate it. I was one that loved it and hope to do it again one day! The Many Ways on the Camino Portugues.

 

[DkPond]

For me, the walk from Lisbon to Porto (2016) was the only Camino I did not profoundly enjoy and would not recommend. There is a lot of road walking and many Portuguese drivers are not mindful of pedestrians.

That said, I have walked from Porto to SdC twice more (different routes) and found all three wonderful.
JRMc

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

Welcome to a new Camino Junkie, Shep!!!

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

For me, the walk from Lisbon to Porto (2016) was the only Camino I did not profoundly enjoy and would not recommend. There is a lot of road walking and many Portuguese drivers are not mindful of pedestrians.

That said, I have walked from Porto to SdC twice more (different routes) and found all three wonderful.
JRMc

Thanks for the feedback DkPond. All the best. Cooee

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

@geoff Sheperd, I loved the entire way from Lisbon to Porto. The cities of Santarem, Tomar and Coimbra are fascinating. Yes, there is pavement and cobblestone, but for me, it was worth it. We did it in April and while in the south it was quite warm, it gets cooler as you head north to the mountains. It is quite hilly in Portugal, so don't be fooled! My only regret is not adding the day from Tomar to Fatima (30 km). Wish I had done that too! Here is my blog with loads of pictures so you can see and judge for yourself. Some love this section, others hate it. I was one that loved it and hope to do it again one day! The Many Ways on the Camino Portugues.

Elle - I will defer to your very extensive Camino experience and re-consider the Lisbon - Porto leg. Thanks and good luck to you.

Cooee Shep

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

Walked from Porto to Santiago in September and then on to Finisterre and Muxia. The pilgrims we met along the way who had walked from Lisbon were not very complimentary of that section and I felt we had probably made the right decision. We left Porto and walked along the Duro river until it meets the sea and then walked up to Vila de Conde before cutting back to the central route. At Pontevedra we left the central route for 3 days and walked the Espiritual Variant which was our favorite. We then joined back with the central route after taking the boat to Padron. I will say that if you haven’t walked to Finisterre/Muxia you should definitely do it.... it is a wonderful walk. I have awesome weather and ended up hanging in Finisterre for four days. Relaxed does not begin to describe how I felt at the end of my Camino. Admittedly, the beautiful weather contributed to this experience and is not something I have had a previous Camino’s.

Susan - I keep wavering between yes or no re Lisbon-Porto, but your advice might just swing it for me in favour of the route you have proposed. Many thanks and all the best. Cooee Shep

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

Welcome to a new Camino Junkie, Shep!!!

Michelle - Yes I am afraid I have definitely become addicted. But, I will confess that it took me a few weeks on my recent (and first) CF to fully understand the emotional pull that the Camino exerts. It all started to 'come together' just before Galacia - up until then it was 'just' a great experience and a 'nice' long walk. As big Arnie said - 'I'll be back'. Cooee Shep

 

[Keyes]

Definitely worth the walk! I walked Lisbon to Santiago this past July. Boardwalks, sand and marshland along the river between LIsbon and Santarem; interesting towns and people all the way to Porto; great food. Forget trains and planes - there is no better way to enter Porto than crossing that magnificent bridge after a days walk on the Camino. The next time from Lisbon I'll detour through Fatima.

 

[Geoff Shepherd]

Definitely worth the walk! I walked Lisbon to Santiago this past July. Boardwalks, sand and marshland along the river between LIsbon and Santarem; interesting towns and people all the way to Porto; great food. Forget trains and planes - there is no better way to enter Porto than crossing that magnificent bridge after a days walk on the Camino. The next time from Lisbon I'll detour through Fatima.

Thanks for the feedback Keyes. Much appreciated. Cooee