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If you don’t want to walk 38 km from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva del Camino

peregrina2000

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This issue came up on another thread, but I thought it deserved its own thread since it is an issue for many on the Vdlp. As you can see on Gronze, the distance from Carcaboso to Aldeanueva is 38 km, which is too long for many. The most common work-around, I think, is to walk to the Arco de Cáparra and wait for the hotel owners to come pick you up (varied reports on timeliness, but on balance most people think it works well). If you don’t like taking a ride, you can see on Gronze that it is easy to walk the extra 10 km from the arch to the hostal. 8 km continuing on the Vdlp, then a well-marked turn-off for a two km detour to get to Hostal Asturias. The next day there is, I think, a marked route that takes you back to the camino without totally backtracking. Hostal Asturias is a highway road stop, clean, has a restaurant, so really all you need. So that’s one option.

The other is a nice one for people who do not want to walk on asphalt, who want to visit the site at Cáparra, and who have the time to add some kms to their walk. This involves a day from Carcaboso to Oliva de Plasencia and then another day from Oliva de Plasencia to either Aldeanueva del Camino (about 24 km) or Baños de Montemayor (about 33 km). I am pasting in “Isabelle’s map” from years ago, which differs from Gronze in that you do not take the road from Vente Quemada to Oliva de Plasencia. Rather you continue on the off-road camino from Vente Quemada to the Arch at Cáparra. Since that is a total of 19 km from Carcaboso, you should get there with plenty of time to visit the ruins and the museum. Then you have a very pleasant (I remember it being off road and past bull farms) 6 km walk into Oliva de Plasencia, where there is a casa rural and an albergue — both of them, I believe, take reservations, so you don’t have to worry about rushing through your visit at Cáparra. The albergue is an albergue turístico, and is quite nice. I haven’t stayed in the Casa Rural, but others have liked it. Gronze says that pilgrims can use the municipal pool at no cost, and there is a small grocery in the village. The next morning, you retrace your steps from Oliva back to the Arch at Cáparra, where if you are lucky, you will be treated to the glow of the morning sun on the arch. It was really beautiful when I went. But since you have already visited the site, you can continue on without having to wait till its opening later in the morning. Anyway, just something for Vdlp folks to consider. Buen camino, Laurie



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Is the albergue in Oliva de Plasencia open? I remember discussion last year about it being closed for an uncertain time.

I don’t know from first hand experience, but I do remember that there has been a lot of back and forth on this. It was open when I went through, later closed, then I thought it had reopened, but I may have missed a closure or two. The Albergue in Oliva is one of those “albergues turísticos” like others on the Vdlp — Baños de Montemayor, Fuente de Cantos, Torremegia, Zafra, and surely others that aren’t coming to mind right now. They are, I think, owned by the government, and then licensed out to an operator. But when political parties change, licenses may be used as plums to give out to the victors in local elections, according to what I have been told. Gronze shows that the albergue is open and that it is run by the owners of the Casa Rural. That suggests some ongoing stability, but who knows.

Anyone with first hand info — we would love to hear from you! Buen camino, Laurie
 
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Back in 2015 the albergue turistico in Baños was owned by the chap from Rio Lobos who also owns Galisteo. He at one point also owned the Fishing Lodge at the Embalse. We on purpose decided to avoid the albergue in Baños to spread the economic love around rather than feed the monopoly.
 
Earlier this month I did this section by staying overnight in Galisteo, and then walking via Carcaboso as far as the Finca Ventaquemada. There I arranged for a taxi to pick us up and take us off Camino to Plasencia, and then to take us back the next day. Not a cheap arrangement but Plasencia is worth the visit, and a night off the Camino was a welcome respite. Then we walked Ventaquemada to Aldeanueva the next day.
 
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By the way, someone should make an offer to the owner of the Finca Ventaquemada, which would make an awesome pilgrim centre and albergue
I agree with you it would make a great albergue - we did the same as you and it was a great call - buen camino!!
 

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