If you want solitude, don't walk the Camino Frances

[sillydoll]

I don't want to be controversial, but over and over again I read posts from people who are seeking solitude or who want to avoid crowds on their pilgrimage, but they plan on walking the Camino Frances. Why? Don't they realise that by choosing this route, they are adding to the growing numbers - becoming a part of the crowd?

There is enough evidence that this Jacobean route par-excellence is the most crowded of all the Camino routes. It is the most popular, the one that everyone talks about, writes about, documentaries have been made about, and the one that calls to everyone (including you), so it stands to reason that this is also the most over populated route.

If you really, really, really have to walk the Camino Frances, then accept it as it comes, a plethora of pilgrims and all. Think of this as your challenge. This is the cross you have to bear for choosing this route. This is what will test you. Walk it without complaint.

If you really want a solitary pilgrimage experience then choose a different route.
Choose a route in a different country.
Choose a different pilgrimage!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Sillydoll I'm finding my long distance walking legs on Spanish Camino routes, but I have dreams that will take me further afield - nothing controversial about your observations at all.

 

[tyrrek]

I think it‘s all relative. Compared with some ‘wilderness‘ type trekking none of the Camino routes will give solitude. Also the word may be misused or interpretted differently; does it just mean time away from job, family etc and time for reflection? Does the presence of other pilgrims diminish our ‘solitude‘ while the presence of locals does not? I totally agree that routes and timings should be well chosen if someone has a particular kind of experience in mind, balanced with their walking/cycling experience and ability.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Well, it _is_ actually possible to combine the two -- by walking ONLY on the secondary (non-yellow-arrowed) paths of the Francès itself. I've only a little experience of doing this, and you really DO get that solitary experience, at least while you're walking, and this strategy would let you interact with the Francès and with the crowds there in whichever way you liked, in whichever limits or dosage you preferred.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

I stumbled on another way it was quieter as well. From Pamplona I only walked as far as Uterga- then walked a sequence of days staying at smaller, intermediate places. I seemed to start a little later in the mornings than most at the albergues, as the others all seemed to be walking 30km days... So I would start out each morning in solitary splendour mostly, enjoying the sunrises... I was actually even a bit lonely! I had experienced some very lonely days and nights from Cluny, but hadn't been expecting it at all on the CF!
Margaret

 

[Chris Gentry]

Sillydoll, I don't think there's anything controversial about your opinion. I chose this route for personal reasons as I'm sure all do, none of mine which factors a social element. Yes, it is part of the route but, for me, nothing to avoid nor embrace. If your saying that my pilgrimage is somehow in jeopardy of being unfruitful because of this route, then maybe I should consider another route or country. I however don't feel that's necessary. Solitude has a significant and specific meaning to myself, as does this route, which I'm sure holds an altogether different significance to another.

I do sense you're a bit irritated by those seeking solitude in a commercialized trail as if it is unattainable. Walking in company for me doesn't mean I shouldn't find solitude nor does it mean it's asured if I walk completely alone. Avoiding peak season and high temperatures is my preference but if there is some defacto rule/expectation that this route is one of socialization then maybe there was error in my choice. In my Solitude, I hope to reveal the truth in self, the heart of the human condition and my path to them in my journey towards my creator.

I am guilty but only because I think I know what's best for me. Hopefully, at the end, I will.

Peace of Passage,

Chris

 

[thehappyhermit]

If you really want a solitary pilgrimage experience then choose a different route.
Choose a route in a different country.
Choose a different pilgrimage!

This was all good and the last part was very helpful to my thinking. Thank you
HH

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I read posts from people who are seeking solitude or who want to avoid crowds on their pilgrimage, but they plan on walking the Camino Frances.

C'mon. Isn't it mostly a neediness? A "look at me, Daddy"? An effort to be unique? "I am an artiste, not like the rest of the crowd; a tortured soul"? After all, they can sit in their darkened living room and be as alone as they want. They don't have to travel thousands of miles and tell us all about it.

It is a reaching out to connect with others, the antithesis of being alone. I think lending a sympathetic ear is the best approach. It helps them work it out, then they can join the crowd and have a lot of fun.

Those who really want to be alone do not even bring it up. They just be alone...

 

[MichaelB10398]

Silly Doll, I always enjoy your posts and thoughtfulness. Complaining about most things is not helpful. Life simply is; there are ups and downs; piercing pain and overwhelming joys; our wants and wishes really are meaningless because life will bring what it will regardless.

If a pilgrim finds the trail they are on is not enjoyable it is easy to change to another and they should. We all have read comments about the dissatisfaction of some pilgrim about the Way at times. What I understand about those individuals is that they are still finding their way in life. Peace is there and open to all, but we have to seek after it and hold onto it.

 

[Chris Gentry]

Pilgrim sites all around the world are always crowded. Solitude is found elsewhere.

Ondo Ibili !

Of which state do you make this assertion? To inject that it is something strictly bound to a physicality is rather presumptuous. Solitude is the reflection of self truth, in silence, wherever you may seek it.

“Do you have the patience to wait until your mud settles and the water is clear?”
― Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

 

[dougfitz]

Pilgrim sites all around the world are always crowded. Solitude is found elsewhere.

I can recommend St Olav's Way as one pilgrimage where you are unlikely to meet large numbers of pilgrims. I planned my walk to arrive just before the
start of Olavsfestdagene - the St Olav Festival. For the first ten days, I met just two other pilgrims. The largest number I met was an organised group of about 20, and they were about to have a rest day. I didn't see them again until they arrived in Trondheim. Other than that, there were normally only one or two other pilgrims where I stayed, and other than half a day walking with a woman from Alaska, and an hour or so with two other pilgrims, I walked alone.

When I was preparing for this walk, it was clear that it would be a relatively solitary endeavour, and I was concerned that I would not make a good hermit. But I saw other people on most days even in otherwise fairly remote places.

If you are contemplating a more solitary pilgrimage, I can recommend @lovingkindness' record of her walk from Trondhiem to Santiago for some insight into what it might entail. She was a far more dedicated recorder of her experiences than I will ever be.

 

[Chris Gentry]

Experience.

Ondo Ibili !

Your "Experience" is that Solitude is only Physical? You've never been alone in your mind, silent, reflecting of your life in the proximity of others?

It is said that those who shun Solitude, shun self truth. You think there is any truth in that assertion?

"Solitude can actually be stressful at first, he warns. We become 'afraid to confront who we are when stripped of our `doing' nature. We feel a need to be surrounded by people, by activity."

Read more: http://www.utne.com/community/thesecretofsolitude.aspx#ixzz2mERXSBqf

 

[Tia Valeria]

This is why we have chosen over the years to walk other routes. The Way convinced me that the group atmosphere of the Francés would not suit either Terry or myself. We prefer the road less travelled and are quite happy to see those who want crowds carry on along the more busy routes.
Buen Camino to all, whether walking alone or with a Camino family

 

[thehappyhermit]

C'mon. Isn't it mostly a neediness? A "look at me, Daddy"? An effort to be unique? "I am an artiste, not like the rest of the crowd; a tortured soul"? After all, they can sit in their darkened living room and be as alone as they want. They don't have to travel thousands of miles and tell us all about it.

It is a reaching out to connect with others, the antithesis of being alone. I think lending a sympathetic ear is the best approach. It helps them work it out, then they can join the crowd and have a lot of fun.

Those who really want to be alone do not even bring it up. They just be alone...

This does not seem very kind. It makes me think that one has to join in the 'party', I think I will walk elsewhere.
I'll still read the forum though and may walk 'alone' one day.
HH

 

[stevenjarvis]

This does not seem very kind. It makes me think that one has to join in the 'party', I think I will walk elsewhere.
I'll still read the forum though and may walk 'alone' one day.
HH

I agree with your observation , but remember, that's only that members opinion.

 

[Phillypilgrim]

I found the CF an interesting and well balanced (for me) combination of solitary introspection while I walked (as I went alone) and socializing/connecting in the late afternoon and evenings. An opportunity to practice both.

 

[peregrina2000]

I don't want to be controversial, but over and over again I read posts from people who are seeking solitude or who want to avoid crowds on their pilgrimage, but they plan on walking the Camino Frances. Why? Don't they realise that by choosing this route, they are adding to the growing numbers - becoming a part of the crowd?

I haven't walked the Camino Frances since 2005, I believe, but almost every year the Camino I walk intersects with the Frances for at least a few days. It is true that it takes a while to get adjusted to the huge crowds when you have been walking for three weeks in total solitude and then BAM you arrive in Leon or some other place on the Frances. But it is also true that I find that tight groups have formed by then, and that if I want to continue to walk "in solitude", it's easy to do. A couple of years ago, I joined the Frances in Melide and walked on to Boente, where there are beds for about 40 pilgrims or so. The day to Arca was calm and uncrowded, because we were ahead of those who slept in Arzua. From Arca into Santiago, you simply cannot be physically alone unless you walk at the very lowest times of the year (or in the middle of the night, perhaps), but you are likely to be so wrapped up in the arrival into Santiago and what it means for you that even the steady streams won't interfere with that process.

But back to Sil's main point, there are many wonderful uncrowded options. In fact, there are so many Caminos in Spain that you can pick your Camino based on what number of people is "just right" for you. For being totally alone, try the Vadiniense, the Portugues from Lisbon to Porto, or the Invierno. For one or two other people on the trail with you, try the Levante, the Salvador, or the Madrid. For a chunk of pilgrims, try the Portugues from Porto. For crowds similar to those that I experienced on the Frances in 2000, try the Norte, the Via de la Plata or the Primitivo. Of course, nothing is static -- in my two walks on the Vdlp, two years apart, the crowds had increased a bit, so it's just a matter of trying to stay ahead of the crowds!

 

[Chris Gentry]

I found the CF an interesting and well balanced (for me) combination of solitary introspection while I walked (as I went alone) and socializing/connecting in the late afternoon and evenings. An opportunity to practice both.

I couldn't agree more Phillypilgrim. I hope that to be my experience in my Journey. While the social aspect was not in my decision process, fellowship and learning to master others is a reflection of one's inner peace.

“Knowing others is intelligence; knowing yourself is true wisdom. Mastering others is strength; mastering yourself is true power. If you realize that you have enough, you are truly rich.”
― Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

Peace of Passage,

Chris

 

[karenfromcali]

There are many people looking for time to reflect solitude on this walk. Aren't most of usthere to reflect in some way? But I think there are just as many of 'those' who have never done anything like the camino in their lives! Walking 500 miles, and in a country that for many is foreign to them, is no small undertaking. I think the Frances may be chosen by many, as it offers the security of knowing that even though some of us may choose to walk alone, there is the reassurance of someone close by if needed.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

it offers the security of knowing that even though some of us may choose to walk alone, there is the reassurance of someone close by if needed

Amen.

 

[jpflavin1]

Sil:

Solitude is a state of seclusion or isolation. That said, if one truly wants solitude, no Camino fits that bill.

The Camino's represent some of the many walks and Pilgrimages that exist around the world. These routes are traveled for many reasons (Religious, physical challenge, social, transitional time in ones life or just because they are there).

Many forum members use this venue to share our satisfaction (discovered something about ourselves, made new friends, accomplished something, tried new foods, drinks etc. etc.)/dissatisfaction (bed bugs, crowds, blisters, tendonitis, lack of solitude etc. etc.) with certain aspects of the journey.

We, as individuals, can choose to take away from each of these posting what we find of value. I would not want to discourage any opinions.

I remember my school days and a Pyramid called Mazlov's Hierarchy of needs. The base line of that Pyramid was safety/security. The Pinnacle was self actualization. The Camino Frances provides that safe environment to walk and, imo, is a positive step on the journey to the Pinnacle.

Ultreya,
Joe

I also agree with Phillypilgrim. The Camino is a solitary/introspective walk during the day and very communal in the evenings. Why not enjoy the best of both.

 

[alansykes]

I sometimes wonder if my winter caminos are too deliberately, perhaps self-indulgently, solitary, and that I should try starting the Francés in June, as a form of self-mortification. But I know I would hate the heat, crowds give me claustrophobia, I suspect my Spanish would not be forced to improve as it has done on the roads less travelled, and anyway I don't want to and don't see why I should. And as has been pointed out, even the most "solitary" camino is not always that solitary - even if you have the albergue to yourself, you will probably find somebody to chat to in the bar.

 

[Olivares]

"If you want solitude, don't walk the Camino Frances" --- not quite correct. I would say instead "If you want solitude on the Camino Frances, plan for it". I remember walking Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun on Oct 9, 2013 and saw 4 other pilgrims..... I left Calzadilla at 7am. Solitude in the Frances? Yes, it is posible. Should you count on it?...if you plan well you can. Winter months, anybody?

 

[indyinmaine]

If you want to be alone just be the last to get up and take time with breakfast! All the 5:30 people will have already gone. I was, or could have been, alone for well over 3/4 of the time this past fall. It was wonderful.

 

[bulwurth]

Silly Doll, I had an incredible experience in September walking the CF. I sought solitude based on what I thought it meant. I did not find that. Initially, I became involved in the pace. I made Pamplona in two days. On day 7, I sat in Villambistia with shin splints. I took the autobus to Burgos where I rested for four days. It was there that I found what I was looking for.

From Burgos, I began to understand the term solitude. I would wake up later and start just before dawn. I found this time to be valuable. It put me in a frame of mind where I began to deal with issues I had suppressed for most of my life. There is something that occurs with a person when faced with a 20-30k plus day. You are forced to work through things. Most of those early mornings allowed me to witness the Creator's sun rise over the horizon. There is a recognition of the significance of one's problems/issues at that moment. The solitude is found in the experience of small moments. Actually, they become large moments if you are honest with yourself. The fact is, I was never alone.

Personally, I found my experiences to be powerful. From the mountaintops to the cafes, I could not have asked for more. I am a fast walker but learned to stop often just to share in the human experience. What I hoped would be about separation from people became a longing for communion.

There were two major moments along the Way. One was the initial entry into the Cathedral as the Pilgrim's Mass was ending. At its conclusion, I sat in a pew and sobbed. I have not totally reconciled those emotions, but in my moment I felt hands on my shoulders. It was the hands of those I walked with. I will never forget the comfort and the sentiment of an unspoken reassurance. They understood. The second was my arrival into Finisterre. It was not emotional. I walked with two lovely people which I will never see again. The goaded me onward as my feet began to fail on a long second day. They waited on me, walked with me, asked questions of home and had a cold beer waiting on me at the stop. We walked through driving rain and 100+ km winds as we walked toward Cee. Alone, there would have been fear. Together, we accomplished something special. I was privileged to share the view from the rocks with these folks. These are experiences I never would have had if my original plan had come to fruition.

Everyone finds something different. For me, the Camino revealed nothing. It just allowed what was within to emerge.

Ondo Ibili,
Tim C

 

[Harington]

Silly Doll, I had an incredible experience in September walking the CF. I sought solitude based on what I thought it meant. I did not find that. Initially, I became involved in the pace. I made Pamplona in two days. On day 7, I sat in Villambistia with shin splints. I took the autobus to Burgos where I rested for four days. It was there that I found what I was looking for.

From Burgos, I began to understand the term solitude. I would wake up later and start just before dawn. I found this time to be valuable. It put me in a frame of mind where I began to deal with issues I had suppressed for most of my life. There is something that occurs with a person when faced with a 20-30k plus day. You are forced to work through things. Most of those early mornings allowed me to witness the Creator's sun rise over the horizon. There is a recognition of the significance of one's problems/issues at that moment. The solitude is found in the experience of small moments. Actually, they become large moments if you are honest with yourself. The fact is, I was never alone.

Personally, I found my experiences to be powerful. From the mountaintops to the cafes, I could not have asked for more. I am a fast walker but learned to stop often just to share in the human experience. What I hoped would be about separation from people became a longing for communion.

There were two major moments along the Way. One was the initial entry into the Cathedral as the Pilgrim's Mass was ending. At its conclusion, I sat in a pew and sobbed. I have not totally reconciled those emotions, but in my moment I felt hands on my shoulders. It was the hands of those I walked with. I will never forget the comfort and the sentiment of an unspoken reassurance. They understood. The second was my arrival into Finisterre. It was not emotional. I walked with two lovely people which I will never see again. The goaded me onward as my feet began to fail on a long second day. They waited on me, walked with me, asked questions of home and had a cold beer waiting on me at the stop. We walked through driving rain and 100+ km winds as we walked toward Cee. Alone, there would have been fear. Together, we accomplished something special. I was privileged to share the view from the rocks with these folks. These are experiences I never would have had if my original plan had come to fruition.

Everyone finds something different. For me, the Camino revealed nothing. It just allowed what was within to emerge.

Ondo Ibili,
Tim C

Can anyone tell my WHY people think the Francés is "the" Camino (apart from the popularity of that stupid film)? I simply cannot understand why it is thought to be the "main" or THE Camino. Can anyone enlighten me?

 

[Deleted member 3000]

About 75% of the pilgrims arrive in Santiago on the Camino Frances. I am not sure that there is a single "why" for all of them, but they agree that it is the principal camino. The Spanish often start at their home, so for them, any camino will do. The Camino Frances has World Heritage recognition, so that gives it status as "the" camino. It is the location for all of the camino films so far, and is the one walked by Shirley MacLaine and Hape Kerkeling. It is the subject of Paul Coelho's popular book, and the Codex Calixtinus addresses it rather than some other route. Those are some of the reasons for 150,000 pilgrims annually.

 

[GunnarW]

If you walk your first camino, it's better to walk the camino Frances.
It's like learning to drive. You better choose to learn it in a car rather then in a truck, a van, mobile home or in car with a caravan attached.
The camino Frances is good documented in guides and in all kind of languages. You need to do more home work if you would choose a different camino. And as a first time pilgrim, you already have a lot of home work to do.

And the pilgrims who are doing the camino Frances year after year.
Maybe it's the same like in a Chinese Restaurant. You have customers who always order number 23: porc with sweat and sour sauce, because they like it and it's their only association with the Chinese food. And others who will try all the numbers.

 

[dougfitz]

Can anyone tell my WHY people think the Francés is "the" Camino (apart from the popularity of that stupid film)? I simply cannot understand why it is thought to be the "main" or THE Camino. Can anyone enlighten me?

In addition to other responses, if you are travelling from elsewhere in Europe then it is a more direct route to Santiago, even from southern France, to use the Somport pass across the Pyrenees in the north or Route Napoleon or Route Valcarlos from SJPP. It might be a matter of geography that made it the 'main' route.

Regards,

 

[Tia Valeria]

Can anyone tell my WHY people think the Francés is "the" Camino (apart from the popularity of that stupid film)? I simply cannot understand why it is thought to be the "main" or THE Camino. Can anyone enlighten me?

I suspect it is because it has been the most publicised in recent years. Also as Doug says there is some geographical advantage for those travelling from other parts of Europe. Having said that, this is the reason why the Camino Inglés exists as it was the northern ports which gave entry to Spain from England. (England and France being often at war with each other during the Middle Ages.)
Historically the Camino Primitivo would be 'the' Camino being the First Camino, later accessed via the Norte and Covadonga..........but the easier accessed routes gained precedence once the Reconquista took hold in Spain.
I love history and I don't mind which Camino folk hold is most important, so long as they acknowledge that the other Caminos may hold more importance for others.

 

[FatmaG]

Since my camino "driving licence", I drove on marvellous (more or less) lost camino roads - sometimes even without navigation system...
(Gunnar, I just LOVE your images!)
And I can add to Peregrina2000's list the Tunnel Road (for those looking for absolute isolation, please opt for the alternative via the mountains, not the valley) and the Camino Baztan.
In France, you might consider the Piémont Route or the camino leading from Aachen (Aix la Chapelle, Germany) towards Belgium to Vézelay - you should not have to run for a bed (at least, if there are beds); but you might have some difficulties to find food...

As to the lunch and supper proposals, I am just trying to imagine every single camino day Chinese sweet-sour porc...

 

[shefollowsshells]

If you want to be alone just be the last to get up and take time with breakfast! All the 5:30 people will have already gone. I was, or could have been, alone for well over 3/4 of the time this past fall. It was wonderful.

This was my situation as well, I walked by myself many times however when I remember my Frances I typically remember the wonderful relationships that I made. There were many days that I was the last one out, staying behind to get a little extra sleep and enjoy a coffee. This was not intentional but in the end I would meet up with friends and enjoy their company. There were about nine days of my Camino that I got up early to walk with a crew that I enjoyed the company of so much that I wanted to walk with them. Getting up and walking in the dark was not my norm and honestly I didn't enjoy it much BUT the sacrifice for the great company was worth it on these occasions. Many people told me they wished they had done what I was doing, I felt I had the best of both worlds. My last ten days was spent with a mother and son who walked exactly like I did...and we took our time and many times were the last ones in at night, we also enjoyed longer days in the end so walked longer than the typical pilgrim walked during the day.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Can anyone tell my WHY people think the Francés is "the" Camino (apart from the popularity of that stupid film)? I simply cannot understand why it is thought to be the "main" or THE Camino. Can anyone enlighten me?

Because historically it's the road most travelled.

The underlying reason why is that for a very long time, the SJPP > Roncesvalles pass was the only completely reliable way from France to Spain. Yes, there was also the coastal road, as well as passage through Andorra, and South through Catalunya, but the coastal road used to be far more difficult because much of the French Landes was difficult marshland, and all you have to do is look at a map of Europe to see that the more southerly Passes into Spain would involve lengthy detours for most European pilgrims.

Furthermore, the Camino originally followed the original pilgrim's path from Northern Spain to Rome, which went up past SJPP to Lourdes and onwards, though the Camino quickly detached itself from this route that was less convenient for those going the other way, especially those coming from more northerly lands.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I was lonley most of the time during my time at camino Francés so it is possible. I saw people in the morning, passed some during the day and met people at the albergue in the afternoon. I would say that I spent about 90 % of the time without seeing other pilgrims. I started early, passed a lot of pilgrims that started about the same time as me and then I was alone if the towns wasn't to close then I usually passed pilgrims that have started form one town ahead as well. It's about timing and walking speed

Why I walked Camino Francés, well for my first camino I wanted to know that if something happens to me there will be other people coming behind me and I found good info about the infrastructure with food, albergues etc. I wanted "security" the first time. I did Camino Inglés as well much less people but also less infrastructure.