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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

I'm back home...again!

Time of past OR future Camino
Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
Hello all!

I've been home for a week after being in Portugal and Spain for a full month with my son and thought I'd give a shortish recap of my experience. We started out with a couple of tourist days in Lisbon and beautiful Sintra before starting our walk on the Rota Vicentina's Fisherman's Way. A three hour bus ride south to Porto Covo was the beginning of our ten day walk along the coast southward. We had warm, mostly sunny weather and gorgeous non-stop ocean views of coves with huge boulders strewn about. We stopped often to take them all in with the vantage point of a bird looking down from the high cliffs above; one cove after the other as we walked along. The rather deep sand was quite difficult on several of the early days starting out. Twenty kilometers of watching each step I took in the sand was hard work and my hiking poles seemed to do little to help so I gave up using them after a few days. The low growing succulent plants and flowers were in abundance and beautiful, following our steps most of the way. Lovely ocean breezes often refreshed us as we walked. Once in awhile the terrain would change, walking through a pine forest with some nice shade and was appreciated. Our lodgings were a combination of mostly reasonably priced guest houses and occasional hotels, all comfortable with good experiences. The villages were almost exclusively whitewashed stucco buildings, trimmed in bright blue around the windows and doorways, and although I liked them I eventually came to miss the stone structures of Spain's Caminos.

About a week in I developed a bad cold, complete with a sinus infection and stopped often at farmacias for meds to help lessen the symptoms. In addition, while exploring a park after we had dropped off our backpacks for the remainder of the day, low and behold I tripped over an embedded rock and slammed forward on a hard dirt and stone surface. I scraped both knees pretty good and felt pain in my left chest area. I rallied and persevered through the rest of the planned journey, but each time I coughed I noticed pain on my left side where I had fallen.

After about ten days we finished in Sagres, and took a long, but comfortable 7 hour bus ride up to Porto, a city I love, spending two nights there before starting the Portuguese Camino. We walked along the river and ocean out of Porto on our first day to Matosinhos, then on to Vila do Conde, finally turning inland to join the Central route. I shortened a couple of the longest stretches, taking taxis twice as my cold seemed to deplete my energy. I loved many of the views of big hills that were sprinkled with clay roof villages in the distance. Vineyards were everywhere and always fascinate me. We saw very few farm animals on this route and wildlife consisted only of one rabbit and many small lizards.

I especially loved the exceptional beauty of the large towns of Ponte de Lima and Pontevedra, although Barcelos and Tui were nice, as well.

We eventually turned onto the Espiritual Variant and stayed overnight in the stunning oceanside stone village of Combarro in order to have more time there, and to make the next day's hill climb shorter. We loved the nearly two hour boat ride from Vilanova de Arousa to Padron. In Santiago we stayed for two nights enjoying the city and meeting up with a few forum friends before our flight home. I made a special point of stopping in to meet Ivar, our forum CEO, so to speak. He was so kind and made me feel welcome in his little office. I also met Faith and Nate at Pilgrim House, the lovely facility they envisioned which provides a place of rest and connection to weary pilgrims.

The food was always excellent and quite reasonablly priced. We decided to mainly enjoy seafood on this trip and the many variations of squid became a highlight. Occasionally I ordered fish, but they usually had many bones to deal with, at least in the price range we were looking at; the squid and pulpo have none!

After returning home I went for a chest x-ray and discovered I have two fractured ribs on the left side of my chest. They have not shifted so no worries of punctured organs and I should be good as new in another month!

I love this forum and had presented several questions early on to members which helped me with my planning and I would not have changed anything. A big thank you to everyone who took the time to answer my questions with their helpful advise and opinions! You're all "the best"!
 
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Thanks, Tinky, for your kind words. I could probably write pages of compliments for all the tasks you Mods and Ivar must do to keep this forum running smoothly, informational, and with advise and healthy entertainment provided by many members for the rest of us to enjoy!
 
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Hi, Chris,
Wow, good thing you got yourself checked out -- do you think you broke the ribs when you fell?

BTW, fish in Portugal is always, no matter how expensive the place, served whole with the bones and head right there. The only difference is that in the fancy restaurants, there will likely be someone there to "despinhar" (de-bone or de-spine) the fish for you. I have gotten pretty good at it over the years, because I love robalo too much to forego it because of the bones! You will just have to learn; if little Portuguese kids can do it, so can we.
Welcome home! I'm leaving in about 10 days so Illinois will once again be represented on the camino.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Glad to hear from you post Camino. So few of us do short debriefs.
I am headed to Le Puy in less than 2 weeks and my foot issue is totally unresolved. I have planned short days and read a few peoples' "freak outs" about the lack of accommodations. So I spent the day lining up places, that leaves me shaking my head about how for the first time in 9 years I have come around to micro-managing my Camino.
 
Hi, Chris,
Wow, good thing you got yourself checked out -- do you think you broke the ribs when you fell?

BTW, fish in Portugal is always, no matter how expensive the place, served whole with the bones and head right there. The only difference is that in the fancy restaurants, there will likely be someone there to "despinhar" (de-bone or de-spine) the fish for you. I have gotten pretty good at it over the years, because I love robalo too much to forego it because of the bones! You will just have to learn; if little Portuguese kids can do it, so can we.
Welcome home! I'm leaving in about 10 days so Illinois will once again be represented on the camino.
Hi Laurie, Nice to hear from you. Yes, I should not be so worried about dealing with those fish bones....maybe next time!
Yes, I definately fractured the ribs when I fell. I remember that special pain on the left side, but at first assumed it was muscle related.
Good for you, heading out again soon! I will help hold down the Illinois fort while you are away!😉
 
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Glad to hear from you post Camino. So few of us do short debriefs.
Hi Don, I try to do the recaps after I return because I do not post "live from the camino" as many forum members do, nor have a blog. I do send out daily updates to family and friends and it serves as my own journal which I print out.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Hi Laurie, Nice to hear from you. Yes, I should not be so worried about dealing with those bones....maybe next time!
Yes, I definately fractured the ribs when I fell. I remember that special pain on the left side, but at first assumed it was muscle related.
Good for you, heading out again soon! I will help hold down the Illinois fort while you are away!😉
Well, there are now 8 downstate lawmakers who are sponsoring a bill to throw Chicago out of the State, I hope we are all still Illinoisans on my return. o_O https://www.foxnews.com/politics/illinois-republicans-push-to-turn-chicago-into-its-own-state Fortunately, I can make a comment about this because it isn't politics, it is idiocy. ;)
 
Glad to hear from you post Camino. So few of us do short debriefs.
I am headed to Le Puy in less than 2 weeks and my foot issue is totally unresolved. I have planned short days and read a few peoples' "freak outs" about the lack of accommodations. So I spent the day lining up places, that leaves me shaking my head about how for the first time in 9 years I have come around to micro-managing my Camino.
I know. Every year now seems to put more anxiety about finding a bed as we walk. I walked the Le Puy route as far as Auvillar last June and absolutely loved it. We booked ahead the first 3 nights to keep those days short to begin and our final two nights before flying home. Other then that, we only called ahead one day at a time and it still worked out well. I wish you good feet for your walk, and if not the beautiful scenery will hopefully help you forget your ailment!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Hello all!

I've been home for a week after being in Portugal and Spain for a full month with my son and thought I'd give a shortish recap of my experience. We started out with a couple of tourist days in Lisbon and beautiful Sintra before starting our walk on the Rota Vicentina's Fisherman's Way. A three hour bus ride south to Porto Covo was the beginning of our ten day walk along the coast southward. We had warm, mostly sunny weather and gorgeous non-stop ocean views of coves with huge boulders strewn about. We stopped often to take them all in with the vantage point of a bird looking down from the high cliffs above; one cove after the other as we walked along. The rather deep sand was quite difficult on several of the early days starting out. Twenty kilometers of watching each step I took in the sand was hard work and my hiking poles seemed to do little to help so I gave up using them after a few days. The low growing succulent plants and flowers were in abundance and beautiful, following our steps most of the way. Lovely ocean breezes often refreshed us as we walked. Once in awhile the terrain would change, walking through a pine forest with some nice shade and was appreciated. Our lodgings were a combination of mostly reasonably priced guest houses and occasional hotels, all comfortable with good experiences. The villages were almost exclusively whitewashed stucco buildings, trimmed in bright blue around the windows and doorways, and although I liked them I eventually came to miss the stone structures of Spain's Caminos.

About a week in I developed a bad cold, complete with a sinus infection and stopped often at farmacias for meds to help lessen the symptoms. In addition, while exploring a park after we had dropped off our backpacks for the remainder of the day, low and behold I tripped over an embedded rock and slammed forward on a hard dirt and stone surface. I scraped both knees pretty good and felt pain in my left chest area. I rallied and persevered through the rest of the planned journey, but each time I coughed I noticed pain on my left side where I had fallen.

After about ten days we finished in Sagres, and took a long, but comfortable 7 hour bus ride up to Porto, a city I love, spending two nights there before starting the Portuguese Camino. We walked along the river and ocean out of Porto on our first day to Matosinhos, then on to Vila do Conde, finally turning inland to join the Central route. I shortened a couple of the longest stretches, taking taxis twice as my cold seemed to deplete my energy. I loved many of the views of big hills that were sprinkled with clay roof villages in the distance. Vineyards were everywhere and always fascinate me. We saw very few farm animals on this route and wildlife consisted only of one rabbit and many small lizards.

I especially loved the exceptional beauty of the large towns of Ponte de Lima and Pontevedra, although Barcelos and Tui were nice, as well.

We eventually turned onto the Espiritual Variant and stayed overnight in the stunning oceanside stone village of Combarro in order to have more time there, and to make the next day's hill climb shorter. We loved the nearly two hour boat ride from Vilanova de Arousa to Padron. In Santiago we stayed for two nights enjoying the city and meeting up with a few forum friends before our flight home. I made a special point of stopping in to meet Ivar, our forum CEO, so to speak. He was so kind and made me feel welcome in his little office. I also met Faith and Nate at Pilgrim House, the lovely facility they envisioned which provides a place of rest and connection to weary pilgrims.

The food was always excellent and quite reasonablly priced. We decided to mainly enjoy seafood on this trip and the many variations of squid became a highlight. Occasionally I ordered fish, but they usually had many bones to deal with, at least in the price range we were looking at; the squid and pulpo have none!

After returning home I went for a chest x-ray and discovered I have two fractured ribs on the left side of my chest. They have not shifted so no worries of punctured organs and I should be good as new in another month!

I love this forum and had presented several questions early on to members which helped me with my planning and I would not have changed anything. A big thank you to everyone who took the time to answer my questions with their helpful advise and opinions! You're all "the best"!
An excellent recap, Chris. Fractured ribs! You certainly know how to make light of pain... try not to laugh too much till they are sorted!
 
An excellent recap, Chris. Fractured ribs! You certainly know how to make light of pain... try not to laugh too much till they are sorted!
Hi Kirkie, Thank you for the compliment. If I try not to laugh too much I'll definately need to stay off the Not serious thread, but doubt I'm willing to do that! 😉
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Hello all!

I've been home for a week after being in Portugal and Spain for a full month with my son and thought I'd give a shortish recap of my experience. We started out with a couple of tourist days in Lisbon and beautiful Sintra before starting our walk on the Rota Vicentina's Fisherman's Way. A three hour bus ride south to Porto Covo was the beginning of our ten day walk along the coast southward. We had warm, mostly sunny weather and gorgeous non-stop ocean views of coves with huge boulders strewn about. We stopped often to take them all in with the vantage point of a bird looking down from the high cliffs above; one cove after the other as we walked along. The rather deep sand was quite difficult on several of the early days starting out. Twenty kilometers of watching each step I took in the sand was hard work and my hiking poles seemed to do little to help so I gave up using them after a few days. The low growing succulent plants and flowers were in abundance and beautiful, following our steps most of the way. Lovely ocean breezes often refreshed us as we walked. Once in awhile the terrain would change, walking through a pine forest with some nice shade and was appreciated. Our lodgings were a combination of mostly reasonably priced guest houses and occasional hotels, all comfortable with good experiences. The villages were almost exclusively whitewashed stucco buildings, trimmed in bright blue around the windows and doorways, and although I liked them I eventually came to miss the stone structures of Spain's Caminos.

About a week in I developed a bad cold, complete with a sinus infection and stopped often at farmacias for meds to help lessen the symptoms. In addition, while exploring a park after we had dropped off our backpacks for the remainder of the day, low and behold I tripped over an embedded rock and slammed forward on a hard dirt and stone surface. I scraped both knees pretty good and felt pain in my left chest area. I rallied and persevered through the rest of the planned journey, but each time I coughed I noticed pain on my left side where I had fallen.

After about ten days we finished in Sagres, and took a long, but comfortable 7 hour bus ride up to Porto, a city I love, spending two nights there before starting the Portuguese Camino. We walked along the river and ocean out of Porto on our first day to Matosinhos, then on to Vila do Conde, finally turning inland to join the Central route. I shortened a couple of the longest stretches, taking taxis twice as my cold seemed to deplete my energy. I loved many of the views of big hills that were sprinkled with clay roof villages in the distance. Vineyards were everywhere and always fascinate me. We saw very few farm animals on this route and wildlife consisted only of one rabbit and many small lizards.

I especially loved the exceptional beauty of the large towns of Ponte de Lima and Pontevedra, although Barcelos and Tui were nice, as well.

We eventually turned onto the Espiritual Variant and stayed overnight in the stunning oceanside stone village of Combarro in order to have more time there, and to make the next day's hill climb shorter. We loved the nearly two hour boat ride from Vilanova de Arousa to Padron. In Santiago we stayed for two nights enjoying the city and meeting up with a few forum friends before our flight home. I made a special point of stopping in to meet Ivar, our forum CEO, so to speak. He was so kind and made me feel welcome in his little office. I also met Faith and Nate at Pilgrim House, the lovely facility they envisioned which provides a place of rest and connection to weary pilgrims.

The food was always excellent and quite reasonablly priced. We decided to mainly enjoy seafood on this trip and the many variations of squid became a highlight. Occasionally I ordered fish, but they usually had many bones to deal with, at least in the price range we were looking at; the squid and pulpo have none!

After returning home I went for a chest x-ray and discovered I have two fractured ribs on the left side of my chest. They have not shifted so no worries of punctured organs and I should be good as new in another month!

I love this forum and had presented several questions early on to members which helped me with my planning and I would not have changed anything. A big thank you to everyone who took the time to answer my questions with their helpful advise and opinions! You're all "the best"!


Thank you for your post. I leave for CP in a couple weeks and some of your points will help me.

On your first day out of Porto, did you stop in Matosinhos for the night? I did not want to walk all the way to VdC on my first day, so I was looking for a good way to split up that day.
Thanks -
Lynne
 
Thank you for your post. I leave for CP in a couple weeks and some of your points will help me.

On your first day out of Porto, did you stop in Matosinhos for the night? I did not want to walk all the way to VdC on my first day, so I was looking for a good way to split up that day.
Thanks -
Lynne
I sure did stop in Matosinhos for the night there, and so glad I did! We stayed at Fishtail Sea House. A really great place...loved it! Highly recommend! Enjoy your walk!
 
Hi Chris, thank you for the lovely recap of your Portuguese camino. I am walking it, with my niece, starting in Porto on 7 August. I appreciate you mentioning all the places you visited. We would also like to start out on the coastal route and then link up with the internal route, later doing the Spiritual route (all on advice on this forum!!!). We are not booking ahead, only our first night in Porto at the albergue, so heres hoping we can get two beds every night further on.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Hello all!

I've been home for a week after being in Portugal and Spain for a full month with my son and thought I'd give a shortish recap of my experience. We started out with a couple of tourist days in Lisbon and beautiful Sintra before starting our walk on the Rota Vicentina's Fisherman's Way. A three hour bus ride south to Porto Covo was the beginning of our ten day walk along the coast southward. We had warm, mostly sunny weather and gorgeous non-stop ocean views of coves with huge boulders strewn about. We stopped often to take them all in with the vantage point of a bird looking down from the high cliffs above; one cove after the other as we walked along. The rather deep sand was quite difficult on several of the early days starting out. Twenty kilometers of watching each step I took in the sand was hard work and my hiking poles seemed to do little to help so I gave up using them after a few days. The low growing succulent plants and flowers were in abundance and beautiful, following our steps most of the way. Lovely ocean breezes often refreshed us as we walked. Once in awhile the terrain would change, walking through a pine forest with some nice shade and was appreciated. Our lodgings were a combination of mostly reasonably priced guest houses and occasional hotels, all comfortable with good experiences. The villages were almost exclusively whitewashed stucco buildings, trimmed in bright blue around the windows and doorways, and although I liked them I eventually came to miss the stone structures of Spain's Caminos.

About a week in I developed a bad cold, complete with a sinus infection and stopped often at farmacias for meds to help lessen the symptoms. In addition, while exploring a park after we had dropped off our backpacks for the remainder of the day, low and behold I tripped over an embedded rock and slammed forward on a hard dirt and stone surface. I scraped both knees pretty good and felt pain in my left chest area. I rallied and persevered through the rest of the planned journey, but each time I coughed I noticed pain on my left side where I had fallen.

After about ten days we finished in Sagres, and took a long, but comfortable 7 hour bus ride up to Porto, a city I love, spending two nights there before starting the Portuguese Camino. We walked along the river and ocean out of Porto on our first day to Matosinhos, then on to Vila do Conde, finally turning inland to join the Central route. I shortened a couple of the longest stretches, taking taxis twice as my cold seemed to deplete my energy. I loved many of the views of big hills that were sprinkled with clay roof villages in the distance. Vineyards were everywhere and always fascinate me. We saw very few farm animals on this route and wildlife consisted only of one rabbit and many small lizards.

I especially loved the exceptional beauty of the large towns of Ponte de Lima and Pontevedra, although Barcelos and Tui were nice, as well.

We eventually turned onto the Espiritual Variant and stayed overnight in the stunning oceanside stone village of Combarro in order to have more time there, and to make the next day's hill climb shorter. We loved the nearly two hour boat ride from Vilanova de Arousa to Padron. In Santiago we stayed for two nights enjoying the city and meeting up with a few forum friends before our flight home. I made a special point of stopping in to meet Ivar, our forum CEO, so to speak. He was so kind and made me feel welcome in his little office. I also met Faith and Nate at Pilgrim House, the lovely facility they envisioned which provides a place of rest and connection to weary pilgrims.

The food was always excellent and quite reasonablly priced. We decided to mainly enjoy seafood on this trip and the many variations of squid became a highlight. Occasionally I ordered fish, but they usually had many bones to deal with, at least in the price range we were looking at; the squid and pulpo have none!

After returning home I went for a chest x-ray and discovered I have two fractured ribs on the left side of my chest. They have not shifted so no worries of punctured organs and I should be good as new in another month!

I love this forum and had presented several questions early on to members which helped me with my planning and I would not have changed anything. A big thank you to everyone who took the time to answer my questions with their helpful advise and opinions! You're all "the best"!
Hi Chris! Congratulations on finishing your journey, albeit with a few unexpected complications. We never did meet up, but I kept looking for your turquoise backpack. I remained a day behind you. I went to the Anglican service at Sybille’s (Egeria House- still can’t pronounce it) in Santiago and she told me you were there the day before. Someone at Pilgrim House said the same thing. Aren’t both of those places with those wonderful people a gift! I kept running into Tom and Alan in Santiago. I guess I’m drawn to some really good people! Heal quickly! Andrea
 
I must add that I find the Wise Pilgrim guide very confusing, can't make out distances between towns.
Is Matosinhos on the coastal or internal route? I think we are going to wing it for most of the time on the CP.
 
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I must add that I find the Wise Pilgrim guide very confusing, can't make out distances between towns.
Is Matosinhos on the coastal or internal route? I think we are going to wing it for most of the time on the CP.
It is on the coast, but actually part of the Senda Litoral according to the Brierley guide. You just follow the river out of Porto, which eventually meets up with the ocean, then keep on walking on to Matosinhos. The total kilometers for that first day is only 12k, an easy distance for starting out.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
It is on the coast, but actually part of the Senda Litoral according to the Brierley guide. You just follow the river out of Porto, which eventually meets up with the ocean, then keep on walking on to Matosinhos. The total kilometers for that first day is only 12k, an easy distance for starting out.
Thank you Chris, at last a bit of clarity on starting our Camino, really appreciate your information.
 
Hi, Chris,
Wow, good thing you got yourself checked out -- do you think you broke the ribs when you fell?

BTW, fish in Portugal is always, no matter how expensive the place, served whole with the bones and head right there. The only difference is that in the fancy restaurants, there will likely be someone there to "despinhar" (de-bone or de-spine) the fish for you. I have gotten pretty good at it over the years, because I love robalo too much to forego it because of the bones! You will just have to learn; if little Portuguese kids can do it, so can we.
Welcome home! I'm leaving in about 10 days so Illinois will once again be represented on the camino.
Bomn Caminho Laurie! (Not sure if I’ve spelt it correctly) I starting from Lisbon the first week in June so hope the feet hold out!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Thank you for the reprisal! Hope you are on the mend, and happy that you could complete your wonderful-sounding Camino, despite it all!
Thanks, Elle. Yes, I am on the mend, just no jumping jacks in my exercise class for awhile.
Your blog helped me in my planning stages early on and was an enjoyable read, including the photos.☺
 
Hi Chris! Congratulations on finishing your journey, albeit with a few unexpected complications. We never did meet up, but I kept looking for your turquoise backpack. I remained a day behind you. I went to the Anglican service at Sybille’s (Egeria House- still can’t pronounce it) in Santiago and she told me you were there the day before. Someone at Pilgrim House said the same thing. Aren’t both of those places with those wonderful people a gift! I kept running into Tom and Alan in Santiago. I guess I’m drawn to some really good people! Heal quickly! Andrea
Hi Andrea, Such a shame that we were "so close and yet so far". Thank you for watching out for my turquoise pack. I hope you enjoyed the Portuguese route as much as I did!
 
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Wow, Chris. What a trooper you are, walking with broken ribs. I hope they heal soon.
Wonderful recap! Thank yiu! 😊
I'm not doing too bad really.
Thanks for the compliment, but I plowed through quickly with just a few highlights. Your writing skills are far superior and I am enjoying following you two daily!
 
Hi Chris, thank you for the insights. Can you tell me if the coastal route out of Porto is well marked until you get to the central route ? We are planning CP for 2021 and would love to enjoy those views along the ocean. We did the Camino Frances in 2017 and found it to be easily navigable but read some posts saying Coastal Portuguese could be confusing. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Cheers !!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Hi Chris, thank you for the insights. Can you tell me if the coastal route out of Porto is well marked until you get to the central route ? We are planning CP for 2021 and would love to enjoy those views along the ocean. We did the Camino Frances in 2017 and found it to be easily navigable but read some posts saying Coastal Portuguese could be confusing. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Cheers !!
Yes, it is well marked. If you follow the river out of Porto it will be on your left, keep walking and eventually the ocean takes over, but is still on your left. I took it as far as Vila do Conde over two shorter days. This section is actually part of the Senda Litoral, not the coastal route on this portion. I then turned eastward towards Rates and the Central route.
Elle Biieling has an excellent blog and usually adds some maps. Take a look! I used Brierley's guide.
 
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Yes, it is well marked. If you follow the river out of Porto it will be on your left, keep walking and eventually the ocean takes over. But still on your left. I took it as far as Vila do Conde over two shorter days. This section is actually part of the Senda Litoral, not the coastal route on this portion. I then turned eastward towards Rates and the Central route.
Elle Biieling has an excellent blog and usually adds some maps. Take a look! I used Brierley"s guide.
Thank you so much Chris, sometimes it feels like such a daunting task when there are so many unknowns ! But you've given me a great head start. It is much appreciated :)
 

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