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I'm taking a rest day in Oviedo today.

Stephen

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Twice walked from St Jean to Estella and once from Sarria to Santiago. Maybe someday I'll find the time to do the entire walk.
I've found the time. Just completed SJPP to Santiago. 25 Aug to 1st Oct, 2016.
And now the Portuguese from Lisbon.
I'll resume my pilgrimage on The Primitivo tomorrow. I've already walked from Irun and was wondering if the hills ahead of me are any worse than the ones I've passed.
Is there anywhere here I could buy a guide book?
 
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Good going, Stephen!
I walked the Primitivo last year and I walked the first week of the Norte in May of this year. Although there are quite a few ups and downs between Oviedo and Lugo, I don't recall the Primitivo being much harder than my little walk on the Norte. And as you've walked from Irun, you'll be well able for those ups and downs!

In a few days time, you'll need to think about whether you want to take the Hospitales route (after Borres). This thread by @peregrina2000 will help you to weigh up the pros and cons. Its a beautiful walk and probably one of my best memories of the Primitivo. However, it's a long one - you need to be able to walk at least 26kms as there are no intermediate stopping points between Borres and Berducedo.

Hope you enjoy the rest day and wishing you well on the Primitivo.
 
Hi Stephen,
Since you have walked from Irun you will be in good condition for the Primitivo. Please enjoy.....one of my favourite ways!
Buen Camino
Aidan
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
The Primitivo, like the first third of the Norte, has a few hills that may get you hiffing and puffing, but they do not go on formever like the day up the Napoleon route. Those that come to mind are the Acebo as you leave Asturias, the one out of La mesa, the one past A lastra, the entrance into A fonsagrada. And then there are all the others in between.

For the Hospitales route, there is always the option of cutting it short by calling a taxi formoick up at the Puerto de la Marta where the road passes right through the Camino about half way in the etapa.

I wrote here on the Forum while I walked in 2015, I think the title of the thread was Primitivo Breathtaking.
 
I'll resume my pilgrimage on The Primitivo tomorrow. I've already walked from Irun and was wondering if the hills ahead of me are any worse than the ones I've passed.
Is there anywhere here I could buy a guide book?
Earlier this year in April / May, my wife and I walked the same trail that you have from Irun. I wouldn't say that the portion after Oviedo was more difficult than before but the day with the Hospitales section will be the biggest challenge before you. We are 60-ish and we don't exactly train extra for our Caminos any longer. Pacing ourselves works for us which makes us two of the slower pilgrims but we fairly easily manage 22-30km every day, even over the mountains. I believe you will do fine. I suggest planning your walk so that you sleep in Campiello before tackling the Hospitales and walk to Berducedo that day. Finally, take the old route up into A Fonsagrada, rather than the new longer, steeper route (see the description of that here: http://memismscaminodelnorte.blogspot.sg/2017/05/day-26-castro-to-fonsagrada-224km-55hrs.html). I wish you good weather and a buen Camino.
 
Earlier this year in April / May, my wife and I walked the same trail that you have from Irun. I wouldn't say that the portion after Oviedo was more difficult than before but the day with the Hospitales section will be the biggest challenge before you. We are 60-ish and we don't exactly train extra for our Caminos any longer. Pacing ourselves works for us which makes us two of the slower pilgrims but we fairly easily manage 22-30km every day, even over the mountains. I believe you will do fine. I suggest planning your walk so that you sleep in Campiello before tackling the Hospitales and walk to Berducedo that day. Finally, take the old route up into A Fonsagrada, rather than the new longer, steeper route (see the description of that here: http://memismscaminodelnorte.blogspot.sg/2017/05/day-26-castro-to-fonsagrada-224km-55hrs.html). I wish you good weather and a buen Camino.
Good advice. Don't take the road up the hill to Fonsagrada. The locals, if they are out on the farm will point you to the right, take the Buron way. It's far easier. That's the way we went and then heard and saw our fellow pilgrims arriving in Fonsagrada after us exhausted and complaining about a steep ascent.

I'm also messaging you privately about another piece of information.
 
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Good going, Stephen!
I walked the Primitivo last year and I walked the first week of the Norte in May of this year. Although there are quite a few ups and downs between Oviedo and Lugo, I don't recall the Primitivo being much harder than my little walk on the Norte. And as you've walked from Irun, you'll be well able for those ups and downs!

In a few days time, you'll need to think about whether you want to take the Hospitales route (after Borres). This thread by @peregrina2000 will help you to weigh up the pros and cons. Its a beautiful walk and probably one of my best memories of the Primitivo. However, it's a long one - you need to be able to walk at least 26kms as there are no intermediate stopping points between Borres and Berducedo.

Hope you enjoy the rest day and wishing you well on the Primitivo.
I too walked the Hospitales route last spring. The day was perfect and we were given the latest weather reports from the albergue we left from that morning. They said "Go, you won't want to miss it." It was stunning. Ironically a man I'd met several times throughout my Camino was a day behind me going up the same route. There was so much heavy fog he couldn't see a thing, could barely find the special signposts placed along the trail to help in inclement weather and he became dissoriented. Kind of like the Napoleon route on the Camino Frances....often very changeable and unpredictable weather!
 
There was so much heavy fog he couldn't see a thing, could barely find the special signposts placed along the trail to help in inclement weather and he became dissoriented. Kind of like the Napoleon route on the Camino Frances....often very changeable and unpredictable weather!
With the cliffs along that route walking in the fog could have ended badly. When I got to the base of the climb I found a local farmer and asked her what she thought of the weather that day and she told me it was as good as it got, so up I went. Would never have chanced it had she been uncertain.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Well, Stephen we are awaiting your arrival.. Anne my Co hospitalera has just finished the route and will be happy to tell you all about it.
 
Well, Stephen we are awaiting your arrival.. Anne my Co hospitalera has just finished the route and will be happy to tell you all about it.
I'm a couple of km away. Keep me a bed, or even a chair to sleep on, if you can.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I do like it. They're lovely people, provided a nice meal at a reasonable price, and its location means I've got a head start of a few hundred metres for the bed race tomorrow. :))
And it was nice to meet, albeit briefly, a fellow member of the forum.
 
I do like it. They're lovely people, provided a nice meal at a reasonable price, and its location means I've got a head start of a few hundred metres for the bed race tomorrow. :))
And it was nice to meet, albeit briefly, a fellow member of the forum.

I bet you're in the Hotel Autobar. We got an apt. across the street that they owned -- 3 bedrooms, nice bath, kitchen, at about 15 or 20.

Don't be alarmed about a bed race, not yet anyway. The Grado albergue always fills up, and it's small. People will be spreading out more, depending on whether they want to walk Hospitales or not. I think the next crunch you'll find will be in Berducedo, where the Hospitales route merges with the Pola de Allande route. But Berducedo now has three private albergues as well as rooms above the bar, all in addition to the municipal albergue. So, sit back and enjoy! Lots of us primitivo fans here who would love to hear how it goes for you and what your impressions are. Buen camino, Stephen!
 
I bet you're in the Hotel Autobar
I walked into Grado when it was raining a bit and stopped at the Autobar for a cafe con leche and a bote to eat. I was considering spending thr night there bit the place did jot look very clean so I wondered about the rooms.

So I packed by backpack, went into the Arbol grocery store (fantastic selection!) and walked up to San Juan de Villapanada. Such a good decision. It really didn't feel as far as I had feared, although there are a couple of steep stretches.

The albergue is still run "the good old way", with a hospy who has been at thos for 20 years, day in and day out. The views are beautiful. Threw my lasagna in the oven, fried some thin slices of pork with peppers and shared the 5€ purchase with two others.

The downside with San Juan is that it is a long trek to David/Alex's albergue, so I stayed in Salas and walked past the albergue around 10 am... Next time I will try to stay in Grado and walk to Bodeyana. It will make for a long day to Tineo but so be it... the next day it will be Pola and not Hospitales, although ... I may just make a short day of it in Tineo and walk Hospitales, weather permitting. It is so beautiful, and I have yet to see the horses and "ponds".
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I walked into Grado when it was raining a bit and stopped at the Autobar for a cafe con leche and a bote to eat. I was considering spending thr night there bit the place did jot look very clean so I wondered about the rooms.

So I packed by backpack, went into the Arbol grocery store (fantastic selection!) and walked up to San Juan de Villapanada. Such a good decision. It really didn't feel as far as I had feared, although there are a couple of steep stretches.

The albergue is still run "the good old way", with a hospy who has been at thos for 20 years, day in and day out. The views are beautiful. Threw my lasagna in the oven, fried some thin slices of pork with peppers and shared the 5€ purchase with two others.

The downside with San Juan is that it is a long trek to David/Alex's albergue, so I stayed in Salas and walked past the albergue around 10 am... Next time I will try to stay in Grado and walk to Bodeyana. It will make for a long day to Tineo but so be it... the next day it will be Pola and not Hospitales, although ... I may just make a short day of it in Tineo and walk Hospitales, weather permitting. It is so beautiful, and I have yet to see the horses and "ponds".

The rooms in the apt. were fine, but I have no idea about the hotel. I think it gets generally good reviews, though. I have also stayed in San Juan and agree that it is a wonderful place. Its one drawback is that it makes staging for Hospitales difficult without a really short stage or a really long one. But as more and more albergues pop up, that problem is likely to disappear.
 
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There was a festival in Grado last night which included a concert which went on well into the early hours. I'm sure there were a few bleary eyes on the Camino this morning.
I had an uneventful, but not stress free walk to Salas today. The stress comes from walking along the edge of a road where cars and lorries are thundering by. To be caught in the slipstream of a juggernaut as it passes isn't conducive to meditative walking.
This isn't a very busy road and when drivers can see there's nothing coming towards them they'll pull out and give you a wide berth. But when there is oncoming traffic they've no choice but to come quite close to you. I can't remember if there was as much road walking on the Camino Frances, apart from the start, but I don't think there was.
There were hills of course. But if you like walking you know it has its ups and downs.
 
There was a festival in Grado last night which included a concert which went on well into the early hours. I'm sure there were a few bleary eyes on the Camino this morning.
I had an uneventful, but not stress free walk to Salas today. The stress comes from walking along the edge of a road where cars and lorries are thundering by. To be caught in the slipstream of a juggernaut as it passes isn't conducive to meditative walking.
This isn't a very busy road and when drivers can see there's nothing coming towards them they'll pull out and give you a wide berth. But when there is oncoming traffic they've no choice but to come quite close to you. I can't remember if there was as much road walking on the Camino Frances, apart from the start, but I don't think there was.
There were hills of course. But if you like walking you know it has its ups and downs.

I wonder if there is still highway construction that has moved the camino. Either that, or my memory is really fading, because I just don't have any memory of long stretches on the side of a highway between Grado and Salas! Hope things get better for you, Stephen, buen camino, Laurie
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I just don't have any memory of long stretches on the side of a highway between Grado and Salas!
Neither do I, but there was lots of important road construction work that had been stopped for a while. It would be good news for the country if it has picked up again.
 
I'll resume my pilgrimage on The Primitivo tomorrow. I've already walked from Irun and was wondering if the hills ahead of me are any worse than the ones I've passed.
Is there anywhere here I could buy a guide book?
Many people walk the Hospitales route after Borres, but the now less used route via Pola de Allende is well worth considering. We have walked that way, stopping in Pola overnight, which made the day to Berducedo so much easier.
The split is well signed and the two variants join again at Puerto de Palo. Having 'back-tracked' part of the Hospitales route I would choose the Pola one again, as being less bleak.
 
I am so grateful for this posting and Stephen it would be great to hear how the rest of your walk goes as I am doing the Salvador and Primitivo as far as Lugo in Sept. It's so reassuring to read the experience of those who have walked the Primitivo. I am more excited about this walk than other walks and also if weather and body allows I want to do the Hospitales route.
Thanks to all posting.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I finished on the 16th last and taking into account the info from peregrina2000 earler post,I walked took the Hospitals route as far as Puerto del Palo ( there is a guy selling drinks there now ) and the returned to Campiello ( new casa,shop,bar good food) then the next day walked the other route via Pola De Allande. Both of are very beautfull in there own way , but for me the Allande one is the best one but also the toughest especially the last stretch to the power station where they join .my advise would be stage this rout from Pola De Allande.

And for interest the best lunch I have ever had in Spain is available in Salas in Casa Romano, on the right side after you go trough the arch at the top of the Town,to describe it would only spoil the experience as I am sure anyone who has dined there will agree.
 
I'll resume my pilgrimage on The Primitivo tomorrow. I've already walked from Irun and was wondering if the hills ahead of me are any worse than the ones I've passed.
Is there anywhere here I could buy a guide book?
You asked about a guide book.
Let me state that do not buy The Northern Caminos by Perazzoli and Whitson. It is worse then useless.
Example according to them there is nowhere to stay after Mont De Gozo
quote ."this is the last possible stopping point before Santiago "
I think there is 10 more.
 
I stayed in a place called Salas two nights ago. The next morning I went into a cafe and had the usual coffee and a slice of tortilla for breakfast. When i was ready to pay the lady behind the bar asked me to wait. She went and got another slice of the tortilla, a bottle of water, and a banana, and wrapped them.
She gave them to me , wishing me: Buen Camino. That was a really nice gesture and I'm sorry I hadn't the language to express my appreciation of her gift. All I could say was, Gracias.
Her behaviour was a living example of Camino spirit. I met it on the Primitivo, I suppose pilgrims on all the different ways to Santiago meet with acts of kindness.
I imagined this walk to be tougher than it's turned out to be. There are hills, but a slow and steady approach will get you over any of them. There are far fewer pilgrims than you'd meet on the Camino Frances, not as many cyclists, and great scenery.
I walked from Tineo to Borres today. There's a reputedly tough climb to be faced tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Let me state that do not buy The Northern Caminos by Perazzoli and Whitson. It is worse then useless.
Example according to them there is nowhere to stay after Mont De Gozo
quote ."this is the last possible stopping point before Santiago "
I think there is 10 more.
I walked with that guidebook, and it was fine, except for a bar on the P. that had closed since publishing and another glitch. But when I got back home I emailed the authors so they could add this info on the website where one can get updates.

Cicerone does not reedit this guide annually, but information is there for us to find.
 
I stayed in a place called Salas two nights ago. The next morning I went into a cafe and had the usual coffee and a slice of tortilla for breakfast. When i was ready to pay the lady behind the bar asked me to wait. She went and got another slice of the tortilla, a bottle of water, and a banana, and wrapped them.
She gave them to me , wishing me: Buen Camino. .
She has been doing this for a long time. A bit like tapas on steroids. Mine was a bocadillo and banana which I ate at the picnic table albergue El Texu has on its front lawn. I asked the hospy there if I could use the washrooms, feeling bad as she was cleaning up for the new wave coming in, and she wouldn't even accept the € I offered her for the service.
 
I stayed in a place called Salas two nights ago. The next morning I went into a cafe and had the usual coffee and a slice of tortilla for breakfast. When i was ready to pay the lady behind the bar asked me to wait. She went and got another slice of the tortilla, a bottle of water, and a banana, and wrapped them.
She gave them to me , wishing me: Buen Camino. That was a really nice gesture and I'm sorry I hadn't the language to express my appreciation of her gift. All I could say was, Gracias.
Her behaviour was a living example of Camino spirit. I met it on the Primitivo, I suppose pilgrims on all the different ways to Santiago meet with acts of kindness.
I imagined this walk to be tougher than it's turned out to be. There are hills, but a slow and steady approach will get you over any of them. There are far fewer pilgrims than you'd meet on the Camino Frances, not as many cyclists, and great scenery.
I walked from Tineo to Borres today. There's a reputedly tough climb to be faced tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.
If you pick Hospitals its a long 15km climb with some sneaky steep bits where you might meet a Bull or Stallion but the down hill after the power station is very rough , you may need to readjust your laces in order not to get Hammer Toe .
Keep an eye out for the Shadow of the Golden Eagle's.
Most of all stop and look around.
Burn Camino.
 
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The Hospitals route certainly is spectacular . In my opinion it's a more difficult walk than SJPP to Roncesvalles.
An App on my phone recorded the distance from Borres to the next accommodation as 36km. Can anyone confirm that?
 
The Hospitals route certainly is spectacular . In my opinion it's a more difficult walk than SJPP to Roncesvalles.
An App on my phone recorded the distance from Borres to the next accommodation as 36km. Can anyone confirm that?
Borres to Berducedo, the next place with accomodations, via Hospitales is 26.5km according to the Consejo de Tineo, the local "county": http://www.tineo.es/el-camino-primitivo-etapas

Mind you, it the sketch of the,route it shows 28.5km. Still not 36, far from it.
http://www.tineo.es/itinerario-mapa-y-distancias-kilometricas
 
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The Hospitals route certainly is spectacular . In my opinion it's a more difficult walk than SJPP to Roncesvalles.
An App on my phone recorded the distance from Borres to the next accommodation as 36km. Can anyone confirm that?
I am starting to think that the difficulty of the walks is 90% in one's mind. I had heard about how difficult the alpine walk from Irun to San Sebastian was as well as the Hospitales route. I really focused on making sure I was mentally ready for those stages and when they came, I thought they were not really difficult at all. If I was told they were easy stages, I probably would have thought they were terrible after doing them. The climb for the Hospitales route is only about 600m, about half of the long climb towards Roncesvalles.

Soooooo.... in summary, I'm sorry that I told you that the Hospitales isn't that bad! Also, I had the distance from Campiello to Beducedo at about 28km. Perhaps you did some additional hills for extra credit? Finally, the rest of the way for you to Santiago will be extremely difficult and I am not sure you can do it. Only fit teenage soldiers should even attempt it. (I hope this helps getting you ready! :D ) I'm glad that you enjoyed the views though. We had stunning scenery even though the freezing rain and wind were whipping sideways for a good portion of our walk there in May. Buen Camino!!
 
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The Hospitals route certainly is spectacular . In my opinion it's a more difficult walk than SJPP to Roncesvalles.
An App on my phone recorded the distance from Borres to the next accommodation as 36km. Can anyone confirm that?
The problem with the app on the phone that you probably have it set to the length of your stride on the flat ground and then you walk up hill and use a much shorter step. So you take more steps on the hill and the app just multiplies the number of steps by the stride distance .
 
Crossed from Asturias into Galicia yesterday. The first two bars we came across were closed, so no celebratory cervezas. We also passed the 160km milestone. Less than 100 miles to go.
The day was one of ups and downs, lots of hills. Fonsagrada our destination for last night was visible from a distance, perched on top of a final hill.
 
Crossed from Asturias into Galicia yesterday. The first two bars we came across were closed, so no celebratory cervezas. We also passed the 160km milestone. Less than 100 miles to go.
The day was one of ups and downs, lots of hills. Fonsagrada our destination for last night was visible from a distance, perched on top of a final hill.
It's too bad the small bar on the side of the busy road just after crossing into Galicia was closed as it is quite the place, filled with knickknavks of all sorts, an owner who is quite a charcater and excellent empanadas. Ah, yes, A Fonsagrada teasing you from a distance, making you wonder if you will ever reach it. I envy you beeing there.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Have just arrived in Melede and already a lot more pilgrims about. I guess it's going to be a lot busier from here on in.
The Norte and then El Primitivo make a great Camino. My thoughts now can be summed up with a pun on a Kurt Weill lyric: And the Ks dwindle down to a precious few.
 

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Can anyone recommend a good snack to buy for the hospitalès route Nothing major just something to keep me going Many thanks

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