LIVE from the Camino In Bilbao

[AJGuillaume]

We're in Bilbao, having spent a rest day after walking 89 days and 1444km from Switzerland (Via Gebennensis, Via Podiensis, Voie Nive Bidassoa).
Since starting the Norte on 2 September, it has been a beautiful experience to date, with only a couple of incidents.
We're following the Camino signage with the coastal alternatives explained by @peregrina2000 (Thanks Laurie!!!).
The "Ruta Alpinista" up to Jaizkibel was fantastic, and as we had plenty of training on the Gebennensis and the Podiensis, we didn't find it hard at all. If you're going to start in Irun, I suggest you do a bit of training beforehand. That will ensure you enjoy the stage even more, as the views are exhilarating!
The GR121 from Pasajes to San Sebastian is really worth it. Again, fantastic views, and a beautiful path along the coast.
We had 2 days rain by the time we took the Ruta del Flysch, so after the first 'beach', going back up the slope was very slippery. And that's where the first incident happened, I slid down the slope to my wife's horror ( she thought I was going over the cliff). In hindsight, we could have tried taking the beach all the way, but I didn't know the state of the tide. On a dry day, the Ruta del Flysch is a must, but after a few rainy days, I would say be very careful.
On that same day, I had a second incident. The path between the Deba water treatment station and the footbridge over the N634 is very steep, and again it was very slippery. There are a couple of cables/ropes that were installed to help climb that rise, but they were useless, as they were on the ground.
The rest of the stages have been great.
We have been pondering the Castro Urdiales to Laredo stage. We were going to break it into two stages, no matter what, and the idea was to take the cliff route from Oriñon done by @Luka and which @trecile attempted, but we might have a few days rain before we get there, so I think we'll give it a miss and work on a plan B. It would be very slippery, and a fall here could be fatal.
We have enjoyed meeting lots of other pilgrims: contrary to comments made elsewhere, the Norte is not a lonely route, or at least it hasn't been lonely for us.
The Basque Country is beautiful, and if you try to learn a few Basque words, the people open up and are extremely friendly.
Buen Camino !

 

[peregrina2000]

I was just able to look at all your beautiful pictures on the polarsteps site! You and your wife are so lucky to have the time and ability to do this amazing walk, but then you know that!

I think I stayed in the same place in Lezama years and years ago. At that point it was out in nowhere’s ville, looks like some industrial development has followed, at least if I´m remembering correctly. Does this establishment have two different buildings, one a hotel and one a casa rural right next to each other? Ah, the memories!

I think I remember that you were planning to take @Kosmos’ route after Luarca, is that right? I will wait for your report and see if I have to make a return visit!

Buen camino to you, AJ, Laurie

 

[AJGuillaume]

I was just able to look at all your beautiful pictures on the polarsteps site! You and your wife are so lucky to have the time and ability to do this amazing walk, but then you know that!

I think I stayed in the same place in Lezama years and years ago. At that point it was out in nowhere’s ville, looks like some industrial development has followed, at least if I´m remembering correctly. Does this establishment have two different buildings, one a hotel and one a casa rural right next to each other? Ah, the memories!

I think I remember that you were planning to take @Kosmos’ route after Luarca, is that right? I will wait for your report and see if I have to make a return visit!

Buen camino to you, AJ, Laurie

Thanks Laurie!
Yes, it's the same establishment. Industry has encroached, and the Amazon building is brand new, just behind the hotel.
We are indeed planning to take @Kosmos route, with some adjustments to keep our stages within our limits between Navia and La Caridad (I am not walking alone )
Buen Camino !

 

[laineylainey]

I have a favour to ask of you please ( @peregrina2000 and @AJGuillaume ). Two camino friends of mine are taking 3 weeks to do some of the Norte. I have never walked it, but it is on my "to walk" list.
They are keen to stop an extra day in some towns/cities along the route that would be worth an extra day to stay and explore as they like to combine walking and exploring. In your experience if you had chosen or wanted to, what places along El Norte would you recommend an extra day?
Thanks

 

[AJGuillaume]

I have a favour to ask of you please ( @peregrina2000 and @AJGuillaume ). Two camino friends of mine are taking 3 weeks to do some of the Norte. I have never walked it, but it is on my "to walk" list.
They are keen to stop an extra day in some towns/cities along the route that would be worth an extra day to stay and explore as they like to combine walking and exploring. In your experience if you had chosen or wanted to, what places along El Norte would you recommend an extra day?
Thanks

@laineylainey , we're in Pobeña, so based on our experience to date:
I would have liked to spend an extra day in San Sebastian. We had a short stage from Pasajes to San Sebastian, so we had time to explore a bit, but an extra day would have been great.
Gernika: we were there on a Monday, all museums were closed. Even if they had been open, I could have filled an extra day.
We stayed an extra day in Bilbao and did not regret it. We could have added an extra day.
We had a short walk to Portugalete, and I would have liked an extra day to explore the Getxo side.
For our future stages, we have planned an extra day in Santander, and one in Santillana del Mar to see Altamira.
We're also doing a detour to Oviedo before resuming the Norte, and we have an extra day in Oviedo.
Hope this helps.
Buen Camino !

 

[laineylainey]

Thank you so much!
I have stayed in Bilbao en Camino route and agree it's a great city. I really recommend Oviedo, one of my favourite Spanish cities and well worth a detour.
I hope you enjoy the rest of your Camino and thank you so much for your help and advice.
Buen Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, there are so many places! If they like small coastal touristy places with churches, monasteries, fishing ports, etc., I’d start with Luarca, Castro Urdiales, Llanes,Cudillero, in no particular order. A detour to the Playa de las Catedrales from Ribadeo is well worth it, it’s amazing. For cities, I agree that San Sebastián and Bilbao are great. Walking to Oviedo as from Villaviciosa is well marked and would give them the chance to visit Valdediós, a pre-romanesque Asturian church that is in a beautiful pastoral setting and quite amazing itself (but then I love romanesque and realize that not everyone does). Oviedo also has some show stopper romanesque sites, up at Naranco and Oviedo is one of the most beautiful small cities in Spain, IMO. That’s good for starters, Lainey, do you know what part of the Norte they are on?

 

[laineylainey]

Again Laurie thank you so much for all the information. I will pass it on and try to find out what part they intend doing. I only know they have 3 weeks.p

 

[laineylainey]

All of this will be going into my own El Norte file for future walking!