Indecisive about my next (5th)and my husband's first Camino in late June.

[JCarpenter]

I must confess, I would be the worst fellow pilgrim to a new pilgrim. "Oh, I remember this place!" So, I must rule out the French, the Portuguese (inland from Porto). It will be late June, and from three weeks including travel time. Any suggestions would be welcome. Considering San Salvador, then the Primitivo, but is the Primitivo as beautiful and varied in its scenery as others? We also will appreciate private rooms. Very excited to go again after 5 years.

 

[Former member 99290]

You will likely get lots of opinions and suggestions - and probably more informative than mine - about the many options. But in answer to your question -

In short, I don’t think the Salvador is an ideal first Camino (and you will find it v different to the Frances and Portuguese)

I think the Primitivo is an excellent choice - bookended by Oviedo and SdeC, with Lugo along the way and scenery is beautiful and wonderful. Typically 12-14 days, and you could add Camino Finisterre / Muxia.

Happy trails.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

I must confess, I would be the worst fellow pilgrim to a new pilgrim. "Oh, I remember this place!" So, I must rule out the French, the Portuguese (inland from Porto). It will be late June, and from three weeks including travel time. Any suggestions would be welcome. Considering San Salvador, then the Primitivo, but is the Primitivo as beautiful and varied in its scenery as others? We also will appreciate private rooms. Very excited to go again after 5 years.

Of the 8 caminos we have walked, the Primitivo, as repeatedly predicted to us, was the most beautiful. But they are all wonderful. As a Coordinator of the Mid-Atlantic Chapter of Americans Pilgrims on the Camino and a trainer of many first-time walkers, I always recommend that they should do at least part of the Frances. There must be some towns you blew through, as we did that we simply must go back to and experience. Consider this in your planning. The Salvador is so special: Leon to Oviedo. And you walk through Asturias, our favorite province in all of Spain. If you do this, watch Anthony Burdain's special on Asturias as Chef Jose Andres takes him to his home province. We so enjoyed his home town Mieres and the amazing cider and its unique pourers. Hope I piqued your interest.

 

[rogersoncharles1951]

Of the 8 caminos we have walked, the Primitivo, as repeatedly predicted to us, was the most beautiful. But they are all wonderful. As a Coordinator of the Mid-Atlantic Chapter of Americans Pilgrims on the Camino and a trainer of many first-time walkers, I always recommend that they should do at least part of the Frances. There must be some towns you blew through, as we did that we simply must go back to and experience. Consider this in your planning. The Salvador is so special: Leon to Oviedo. And you walk through Asturias, our favorite province in all of Spain. If you do this, watch Anthony Burdain's special on Asturias as Chef Jose Andres takes him to his home province. We so enjoyed his home town Mieres and the amazing cider and its unique pourers. Hope I piqued your interest.

I also think San Salvador then primitive great Camino's to do jointly but be aware you really need to be fairly fit to achieve this but both have beautiful scenic views

 

[JerryStroebele]

Agree, the scenery and remote charm of the Primitivo will not disappoint. But get fit, carry a very light pack and also read yesterday's thread on the Primitivo. Three weeks including flights and return Covid tests will likely leave you time to walk -- or bus -- to Finnestere. Buen Camino

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Just read this review of Bourdain's Part Unknown episode on Asturias.

“Asturias” (Season 12, Episode 2)​

"Famed Spanish American chef José Andrés adores Bourdain, and it’s quite obvious as he guides him in Spain. After a grueling hike in Bulnes, a region in Asturias, they stuff their faces at Bar Guillermina with mountain fabada — an Asturian pork-and-beans stew. Andrés laughs hysterically at Bourdain’s jokes throughout but later is almost brought to tears when he tells the camera he’s proud to call him a friend.

Later, Andrés is thrilled to surprise Bourdain with one of the expensive, highly prized first salmon of the season. Bourdain remarks, “You bite into it, just a flood of flavor explodes.” Andrés points at him excitedly and mimes throwing dollar bills like a hype man, exclaiming, “Keep going, keep going!” Some of the best parts of the series are moments like this, when Bourdain is unquestionably loved."

Now I can't wait to go back. Looking at my journal, two consecutive nights featured two of the most memorable albergues: the municipal one in Pajares with its spectacular view and the following evening in Benduenos, my all-time favorite albergue. Ah...memories.

 

[Former member 99290]

Another cheer for Benduenos albergue if you find yourselves on the Salvador! A detour from The Way and well worth the climb. Great memories - here's some of what I wrote at the time. The descriptions that had lured us there were well warranted. Our stay there was a highlight of the Salvador (in 2018).

Day 4 – Pajares to Benduenos, 15 kms plus an extra 1.5 up a steep road to the albergue. Another tough day of climbing, at times through rough bushland. But a great adventure. Tricky descents on narrow rocky paths made for slow going. We didn’t see anyone else – though they could have been ahead or behind. We chose to add another 1.5 kms to the end of our day (and following morning) to stay at the Benduenos albergue that we’d read about – described as a sanctuary set in a peaceful spot alongside a beautiful church and managed for the past two years by Sandra, with rave reviews of her kindness, hospitality and cooking.

I'd add that if you decide to take the Salvador, be mindful of distances. We typically walk around 25-30 kms per day and that's a comfortable distance. On the Salvador, we walked a couple of 'short' days of around15 kms and it seemed to take almost the same amount of time and effort as our typically longer days.

PS Just noticed you mentioned you'd appreciate private rooms. From what we saw in 2018, private rooms could be a challenge on the Salvador. Others may have more up to date information. It shouldn't be a problem on the Primitivo, depending on your stops. When I was last there (Oct 2019) some of the albergues had both private rooms and dorms - and in some towns there were private hotels/casas. Gronze is a good source of info on options for stages and accommodation.

 

[trecile]

I'd add that if you decide to take the Salvador, be mindful of distances. We typically walk around 25-30 kms per day and that's a comfortable distance. On the Salvador, we walked a couple of 'short' days of around15 kms and it seemed to take almost the same amount of time and effort as our typically longer days.

The longest day (time-wise) that I've walked on any Camino was the 30 km from Poladura to Campomanes. Every uphill was followed by a more difficult down hill! I decided to push on instead of staying in Pajares because rain was in the forecast for the next day, and I wanted to do that section in good weather. Unfortunately, I was too exhausted to go the extra distance to the Benduenos albergue, but I stayed in a very nice pensión where my laundry was done for free!

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Another cheer for Benduenos albergue if you find yourselves on the Salvador! A detour from The Way and well worth the climb. Great memories - here's some of what I wrote at the time. The descriptions that had lured us there were well warranted. Our stay there was a highlight of the Salvador (in 2018).

Day 4 – Pajares to Benduenos, 15 kms plus an extra 1.5 up a steep road to the albergue. Another tough day of climbing, at times through rough bushland. But a great adventure. Tricky descents on narrow rocky paths made for slow going. We didn’t see anyone else – though they could have been ahead or behind. We chose to add another 1.5 kms to the end of our day (and following morning) to stay at the Benduenos albergue that we’d read about – described as a sanctuary set in a peaceful spot alongside a beautiful church and managed for the past two years by Sandra, with rave reviews of her kindness, hospitality and cooking.

I'd add that if you decide to take the Salvador, be mindful of distances. We typically walk around 25-30 kms per day and that's a comfortable distance. On the Salvador, we walked a couple of 'short' days of around15 kms and it seemed to take almost the same amount of time and effort as our typically longer days.

PS Just noticed you mentioned you'd appreciate private rooms. From what we saw in 2018, private rooms could be a challenge on the Salvador. Others may have more up to date information. It shouldn't be a problem on the Primitivo, depending on your stops. When I was last there (Oct 2019) some of the albergues had both private rooms and dorms - and in some towns there were private hotels/casas. Gronze is a good source of info on options for stages and accommodation.

The day we walked from Pajares it was pouring rain. As you note, I don't recall any days on Salvador that were short. They were all challenging. Forget the distances. Among the many reasons we stopped in Benduenos was that we had made instant friends with a fascinating couple, he 87 years young from California, she a loving 65 year old partner from Holland. They told us they walked caminos three times a year, each time for six weeks! They were soooo much fun. He would scamper ahead up the hills as we kept telling ourselves...one foot in front of the other, one foot in front of the other.

On the Primitivo, we found that as a couple, rooms in a small hotel were not much more than paying for two at an albergue. We had been following the journey of the delightful Elle who constantly chose a hotel over an albergue. Even so, there are some excellent don't miss albergues on the Primitivo.

 

[JCarpenter]

Thank you all! Much to mull over. (Not a pun about the cider). And kindly no one commented on my tendency to divulge the very next thing coming up, but I do think a trip over the Pyrenees, and travelling for a few days more, then going ahead to Oviedo is a possibility. I will watch the Bourdain episode.

 

[Mycroft]

If you went on the Portugues Central, there's always the Portugues Costal, which allows you to explore more of Porto before you start, and then do Muxia and Fisterra after Santiago. The Costal is not a difficult path, and has many places to stay, unless COVID has other ideas.