Is the Camino Primitivo more physically challenging than other routes?

[Susan B Johnson]

I've walked Camino Ingles and on to Finsterre twice. I'd like to try a new route. I've read that the Camino Primitivo is more physically challenging than other routes. Is there any truth to this? If this assessment is correct, what specifically makes it more challenging? Thanks!

 

[dick bird]

Having done all three, I don't think there is a lot of difference, remember that the terrain is the same although some stages on the Primitivo are longer. If you managed the Inglés and the walk to Finisterra, the Primitivo should be well within your ability. It is also a great walk. Buen Camino.

 

[LTfit]

Having done all three, I don't think there is a lot of difference, remember that the terrain is the same although some stages on the Primitivo are longer. If you managed the Inglés and the walk to Finisterra, the Primitivo should be well within your ability. It is also a great walk. Buen Camino.

Having done all three too (the Primitivo twice and the walk to Finisterre on three occasions) I would disagree on your assessment. IMHO the Primitivo is definitely more challenging than the Inglés which I found to be the easiest of all the routes I've walked. This is due to the continuous elevation changes on the Primitivo, every day! It's also my favorite, along with the San Salvador

 

[Tom Hagger]

the Primitivo is definitely more challenging than the Inglés

I would certainly agree with this. It is also somewhat more demanding than the Finisterre/Muxia Camino from Santiago in that there are a greater number and more extensive elevations. Nevertheless, it is a fantastic Camino with spectacular views and fascinating villages and towns. If you plan carefully and are aware of your limitations as far as daily distances are concerned, you will find it marginally more taxing than the Finisterre route but probably even more satisfying. Buen Camino!

 

[claireu]

I found it the most challenging of the Caminos due to the terrain but also the distance between stages. But don’t let that put you off. It is a beautiful walk.

 

[green_spork]

I walked the Primitivo in October, it was my second Camino having previously completed the Portuguese Central route!
I would say the Primitivo has some stages that some people may find more challenging! The inclines can feel tough, if you’re not used to them!
I really enjoy it though, I personally didn’t find it overly difficult and it was definitely worth it for some of the scenery!
During my initial research I remember watching a pilgrims video diary of his Camino Primitivo, which gave me a good idea of what to expect!

 

[josephmcclain]

My impression of the Primitivo was that one was basically always making major climbs or descending and whenever one was one finished the other was beginning. I did love it. But it is pretty much constantly mountainous in a way the Frances is not. Memorable in an entirely different way from the Frances.

 

[david46]

Agree with all of the above. Have a look at some photos we took. Some of them are included in our book 'Walking the Caminos: a User's Guide' (Amazon)

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree with those who say it’s more challenging than the Inglés/Finisterre combo. And by a good margin. I think most people who are in shape can walk the Inglés/Finisterre without much in the way of preparation, but for the Primitivo, I would suggest some relatively serious leg muscle strengthening (both quads and hamstrings) to avoid knee problems and other ailments. There aren’t many hugely steep ascents, but they are sustained and substantial.

And if you look at the pictures linked above, you will see someone walking with a knee bandage. I’ve been there, too, but have not had a problem since I have a fixed stretching routine every morning before an ascent with a strengthening routine before leaving. I love mountainous caminos, and it makes things so much more wonderful to walk one without knee pain.

Have a look at some photos we took.

Nice pictures — I see you stayed at Ponte Ferreira, which I love. It looked to me like people were soaking their feet in the troughs behind you. The last time I was there, those troughs were dry because of the lack of rain. I was disappointed because I had a pleasant memory of sitting there and dangling my feet in icy water a few years earlier. When were you there?

 

[david46]

Nice pictures — I see you stayed at Ponte Ferreira, which I love. It looked to me like people were soaking their feet in the troughs behind you. The last time I was there, those troughs were dry because of the lack of rain. I was disappointed because I had a pleasant memory of sitting there and dangling my feet in icy water a few years earlier. When were you there?

Thanks Peregrina. May 2018 if I remember correctly.

 

[david marquez]

I walked the Primitivo in April/May of 2018. The weather over the top of the Hospitales stage (I think that was the killer section) was really bad! High winds, heavy fog ( a strange combo for sure) and temps around 5C. Glad I bought gloves and a hat in Oviedo! Also there are a couple of long downhills that will make your knees howl if you have issues with them
that being said, I loved the Primitivo from Oviedo to Berducedo and plan to walk it again this april/may

 

[Peter J Martin]

Agree with all of the above. Have a look at some photos we took. Some of them are included in our book 'Walking the Caminos: a User's Guide' (Amazon)

Great set of photos, I will be doing it in June.

 

[Dean Morgenthal]

My first Camino was the Primitivo in winter. Second Ingles. Third Frances 4th Portuguese from Lisboa internal then crossing along coastal and final Camino to this date Le Puy de Valey to St.Jean then crossed onto Gr11to join El Norte. I think Primitivo was the most difficult due to elevations IMHO

 

[Dean Morgenthal]

Agree with all of the above. Have a look at some photos we took. Some of them are included in our book 'Walking the Caminos: a User's Guide' (Amazon)

So that’s what it looks like without snow Nice

 

[david46]

Great set of photos, I will be doing it in June.

Enjoy!

 

[BrianLCrabtree]

I've walked Camino Ingles and on to Finsterre twice. I'd like to try a new route. I've read that the Camino Primativo is more physically challenging than other routes. Is there any truth to this? If this assessment is correct, what specifically makes it more challenging? Thanks!

I walked the Primitivo in late May to early June 2022, continued to Muxia, then down to Finisterre. I found the SdC to Muxia to Finisterre route to be much less vertical than the Villaviciosa to Oviedo to SdC route. There was also more paved road walking on the SdC to Muxia to Finisterre route. There are definitely some challenging climbs and descents on the Primitivo, but it is such a beautiful Way and a wonderful experience. Some degree of fitness training will make the experience safer and more enjoyable. At age 66 with a couple of well controlled but chronic health conditions, it was important to me to be trained. My general fitness program is mostly brisk walking near my home and hiking on remote mountain trails with a backpack. I'm fortunate to live near the Appalachian Trail and similar trails in north Georgia. Fitness walking around town on pavement and trail hiking in the mountains on the A.T. were both excellent training for the Primitivo.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Agree with almost all above. Challenging and beautiful. Look at this Camino on Google Earth and you will see that the first half is perpendicular to the folds of the mountain ridges. Up and down, up and down. Repeat. Buen Camino

 

[John Holland]

David Marquez's comments are very true and a good warning. If the weather is really bad, the Hospitales section can be extremely demanding. I walked the Primitivo in 2017. Like him, I struck a full scale gale: very heavy rain, low clouds (fog), unbelievably strong wind which literally stopped us in our tracks several times forcing us to turn our backs into the wind and wait until the blast had passed over, and very very cold. Did not see anything of the views. It was the toughest conditions I have walked in on any camino (or elsewhere for that matter). And that was after several days in a row of bad weather (primarily cold and rain). Fortunately the Hospitales route was (is still?) extremely well marked with plenty of large yellow arrows. Without them we would definitely have been lost. If conditions are like this I would advise taking the low route on that day.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked the Primitivo in mid-May and had delightful weather, including on the Hospitales route.Two days later we shared a room with a man who had total white-out fog going over it the very next day after us and he could barely see to keep on the trail.
It is a rather difficult Camino, but offers a real sense of accomplishment, and is beautiful indeed!

 

[Former member 92300]

The Primitivo is definitely physically challenging with its mountains and longer distances to accommodations. How challenging depends on your physical fitness. For me - I started on the Norte in Hendaye and switched to the Primitivo at Oviedo - so I had my trail legs built up already and was fine on the Primitivo. Those that started in Oviedo struggled the first several days. But it isn't "rock climbing" or technically challenging in that sort of way. It is a hike through mountains - so it is doable for most people. But by no means is it an easy hike. It is beautiful! And full of Camino Spirit. Less crowded than some other routes, but you can still get to know other pilgrims if you want to (or walk alone if you want to).

It is definitely more challenging than Finisterre. I haven't walked the Ingles - but from what I read and researched, I would consider the Primitivo more challenging.

 

[Tincatinker]

Oviedo to Lugo involves a total elevation gain of 8,300 metres, slightly less than Everest from sea-level (8,848). How much of a challenge that might be will depend on the efficiency of your Sherpa

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Oviedo to Lugo involves a total elevation gain of 8,300 metres, slightly less than Everest from sea-level (8,848). How much of a challenge that might be will depend on the efficiency of your Sherpa

Wow, that's an interesting fact and news to me, if true. I'm going to start telling people I almost made it to the top of Mt. Everest before I collapsed from exhaustion.

 

[peregrino_tom]

Susan, I'd say it depends what stages you walked to Finisterre. Back in the day, when Brierley's guide was more or less the bible, most folk followed his stages including 34km Negreira to Olveiroa, then 32km to Finisterre, with most folk walking on that evening to lighthouse, another 3+ km. If you did that, then there's nothing on the standard Primitivo stages to be concerned about at all. If you divided the Finisterre route into more stages then yes, parts of the Primitivo will feel a bit more demanding, but most folk grow some hill strength after a few days and then it's just business as usual.

 

[green_spork]

My view of the Hospitalas route, end of September 2022!
Torrential rain/dense fog, howling winds!

Was in a bar in Borres the night before, the locals told me to,
"Stay on the road and keep off the moors"

 

[Dean Morgenthal]

2014 January Primitivo

 

[Tincatinker]

Wow, that's an interesting fact and news to me, if true. I'm going to start telling people I almost made it to the top of Mt. Everest before I collapsed from exhaustion.

Chrissy, if you've walked the Camino Frances from St Jean you've over-topped Everest. 8961 metres!

 

[Judy's Way]

My husband and I walked the Camino Primitivo in 2019 and managed it well even though my husband was 80 years old at the time. It took us 19 days - three days longer than many other pilgrims. We went via the Pola de Allende instead of the Hospitales route. We loved it.

 

[David Bedlow]

I walked the Primitivo in 2016. Here is my account of it

 

[Mycroft]

My view of the Hospitalas route, end of September 2022!
Torrential rain/dense fog, howling winds!

Was in a bar in Borres the night before, the locals told me to,
"Stay on the road and keep off the moors"

Isn't that a quote from Hound of the Baskervilles???

 

[green_spork]

Isn't that a quote from Hound of the Baskervilles???

So close, but no gold star am afraid!
The conditions on the Hospitales that day reminded me of certain movie!!
Hence, the quote!
Think 80’s

 

[Jyrki Wahlstedt]

I did Primitivo as my first Camino in 2018, and some of the fellow travellers asked me "Why did you choose this to be your first?" indicating the level of the challenge
Well, my decision was based on the fact that it was the first one walked in 9th century, and I as a simple person wanted to do this first.

 

[Patricia A W]

I walked the Primitivo in 2016. Here is my account of it

Thanks for sharing your memoir David. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it and feel it will be very helpful if I decide to walk the Primitivo one day. I like the way you write.

 

[David Bedlow]

Thanks for your kind comments, Patricia.

 

[Dean Morgenthal]

So close, but no gold star am afraid!
The conditions on the Hospitales that day reminded me of certain movie!!
Hence, the quote!
Think 80’s

American werewolf in London.

 

[green_spork]

American werewolf in London.

Bingo! We have a winner!
Thanks for playing!

 

[PProffitt]

Isn't that a quote from Hound of the Baskervilles???

Was on the Camino Ingles at the end of September 2022.....Weather was absolutely, beautiful....Sunny skies, no wind, no rain....
Considering the Primitivo....How many routes are on the Primitivo?

 

[Orujo]

So close, but no gold star am afraid!
The conditions on the Hospitales that day reminded me of certain movie!!
Hence, the quote!
Think 80’s

American Werewolf in London methinks....

 

[green_spork]

American Werewolf in London methinks....

10/10

 

[peregrina2000]

How many routes are on the Primitivo?

What do you mean? The Primitivo goes from Oviedo to Santiago, but you can walk León to Oviedo on the Salvador, or if you’re on the Norte, dip down to Oviedo after Villaviciosa. But I’m not sure that answers your question.

 

[David Tallan]

Considering the Primitivo....How many routes are on the Primitivo?

What do you mean? The Primitivo goes from Oviedo to Santiago, but you can walk León to Oviedo on the Salvador, or if you’re on the Norte, dip down to Oviedo after Villaviciosa. But I’m not sure that answers your question.

Perhaps the question is about alternatives? We know that many Camino routes have a number of variations. For example, there are three routes out of Villafranca del Bierzo on the Frances. For the Primitivo, we often hear about the Hospitales route as just one option. So the question might be "How many variations are there of the Primitivo route?".

 

[peregrina2000]

Perhaps the question is about alternatives?

Ok I’ll go with that, thanks.

The obvious one is the decision between going through Hospitales or Pola de Allande. Lots of information onthis thread. Both routes meet at the high point, Puerto de Palo, but the ascent through Hospitales is more gradual and less steep. The thread I linked to gives a lot of opinions and comparisons.

The other major choice would be the Camiño Verde from Lugo. It gets a lot of good press, and I walked it a few years ago. I thought it was pleasant, but I don’t share the effusive praise of it that others lavish, but that may be because I got mixed up on my first day out of Lugo. I didn’t think Friol was a particularly interesting place, and that’s about the only place to spend the night on the day from Lugo. The main attraction of the Camiño Verde is that it avoids joining the Francés at Melide, but instead takes you to Sobrado dos Monxes on the Norte for the last few days into Santiago. The Sobrado monastery has recently been cleaned, and its new look is pretty beautiful compared to the dirty stone look of theh past. In terms of scenery and natural beauty, it is pretty similar, IMHO, to what you will find on the “main“ Primitivo.

There are at least three other little alternatives I can think of. By little I mean just a km or two to take you to some nice places.

One is to the monastery of Obona. It’s a well marked little turnoff before Campiello and takes you to an abandoned monastery where you can tramp around. Some pictures. It doesn’t add more than a km or two to the day, so especially if people are only walking from Tineo to Campiello, this is a way to add a bit more.

Another, which I really recommend if you like ancient churches is to Soutomerille. Well marked on the day into Lugo. It has a window from pre-Roman times, and takes you on a beautiful path past chestnuts whose information panels told me they were more than 400 years old.

And finally, the Roman spa/worship spot/temple in Santa Eulalia. This is definitely not to be missed, with the same caveat that it’s for those who love ancient architecture. This one is Roman. . It is about 14 km or so from Lugo, and you can visit it whether you take the Camiño Verde or have decided to stick with the Primitivo. (From Santa Eulalia, to get back to the Primitivo, you will pass very close to the 12C church of San Miguel de Bacurín - I have never found it open, but it has a beautiful doorway and is located in a peaceful spot).

I may be forgetting some others, but if my memory gets jogged, I’ll be back!

 

[frasert]

Bingo! We have a winner!
Thanks for playing!

"oh David what is it?"

 

[AK2112]

I've walked Camino Ingles and on to Finsterre twice. I'd like to try a new route. I've read that the Camino Primitivo is more physically challenging than other routes. Is there any truth to this? If this assessment is correct, what specifically makes it more challenging? Thanks!

I finished the Primitivo from Oviedo to SdC on April 27th. In 2018 I walked SJPdP-Finesterre. The Primitivo is a much more challenging route. Especially the first 5-6 days. But it is beautiful. It is worth it! Pictures are from the Hospitales-route and Berducedo-Grandas de Salime.

 

[Orujo]

I finished the Primitivo from Oviedo to SdC on April 27th. In 2018 I walked SJPdP-Finesterre. The Primitivo is a much more challenging route. Especially the first 5-6 days. But it is beautiful. It is worth it! Pictures are from the Hospitales-route and Berducedo-Grandas de Salime.

View attachment 146216View attachment 146217

Thanks for your update and lovely pictures. May I ask how much training you think is necessary for this, and on those early difficult days, how many hours were you walking for?

 

[AK2112]

Thanks for your update and lovely pictures. May I ask how much training you think is necessary for this, and on those early difficult days, how many hours were you walking for?

Thanks. It is difficult for me to say how much training is needed. On average I walk in the woods 3 days every week, some often around 10 km. The last 4 weeks before the primitivo I walked 4-5 times a week. But I did not practice anything with a backpack like the one on the Camino (9 kg). And I did send my main backpack with Caminotaxi some days, but I still carried 3-4 kg.
I walked about 8++ hours every day on the Primitivo, thats including all the breaks/lunch etc. I believe I am an average walker when it comes to speed.

 

[LTfit]

Thanks for your update and lovely pictures. May I ask how much training you think is necessary for this, and on those early difficult days, how many hours were you walking for?

I also didn't train for the Primitivo but I walk everyday 13-15 km with my dog, albeit on flat terrain (The Netherlands, you can't get much flatter). No training with a pack either but I carry about 5 kg.

I've no idea how many hours I walk, depends on the stage I'm walking but I'd guess 6 to 8 hours but I walk 30 km stages.

 

[Kathygd]

My husband and I walked the Camino Primitivo in 2019 and managed it well even though my husband was 80 years old at the time. It took us 19 days - three days longer than many other pilgrims. We went via the Pola de Allende instead of the Hospitales route. We loved it.

What month did you walk? I'm planning to hike the Primitivo either the end of April or beginning of May, 2024. I'll be 67 and plan to take it easy, though I am doing more hiking with a backpack to get prepared. Did you carry your packs and how much did they weigh? About how far did you travel each day?

 

[hunsta]

Agree with all of the above. Have a look at some photos we took. Some of them are included in our book 'Walking the Caminos: a User's Guide' (Amazon)

Absolutely fantastic photo`s. You seem to have gotten great weather. What time of year did you go?

 

[paulanuran]

I walked the Primitivo in April/May of 2018. The weather over the top of the Hospitales stage (I think that was the killer section) was really bad! High winds, heavy fog ( a strange combo for sure) and temps around 5C. Glad I bought gloves and a hat in Oviedo! Also there are a couple of long downhills that will make your knees howl if you have issues with them
that being said, I loved the Primitivo from Oviedo to Berducedo and plan to walk it again this april/may

How much rain days did you experience?

 

[AK2112]

How much rain days did you experience?

Why are you interested in the weather five years ago ;-)

 

[Kathygd]

How much rain days did you experience?

I also will be hiking the primitivo April to May this year. Are you taking a sleeping bag?

 

[paulanuran]

I also will be hiking the primitivo April to May this year. Are you taking a sleeping bag?

No I am not planning to take a sleeping bag. I messaged every albergue that I’m planning to stay at, and they all provide blankets. Don’t want to add extra weight. How about you?

 

[Kathygd]

No I am not planning to take a sleeping bag. I messaged every albergue that I’m planning to stay at, and they all provide blankets. Don’t want to add extra weight. How about you?

I haven’t wanted to bring a sleeping bag because of the weight but was afraid I may end up cold. I haven’t made a plan of where I will stay other than planning to stay at albergues. So, hearing that the albergues you are staying at are providing them gives me some sense of relief. Are they private or municipal?
I have changed my mind about bringing or not several times already. But I will have layers of clothing and feel I could just wear every single thing I bring if I am cold at night

I am bringing a sleep sack

 

[paulanuran]

I haven’t wanted to bring a sleeping bag because of the weight but was afraid I may end up cold. I haven’t made a plan of where I will stay other than planning to stay at albergues. So, hearing that the albergues you are staying at are providing them gives me some sense of relief. Are they private or municipal?
I have changed my mind about bringing or not several times already. But I will have layers of clothing and feel I could just wear every single thing I bring if I am cold at night

I am bringing a sleep sack

I checked with private albergues. For my visa purposes I had to show bookings and they’re the only ones accepting bookings. I’m walking from April 10 to 28, and I have lot of fat layers on my body

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@Kathygd ,not all Albergues have blankets- I can think of a couple on the Primitivo that didn’t : The donativo in Grado, the Xunta I stayed in once I hit Galicia for example.
I’m doing my Hospitalero course as I type - waiting for breakfast- the association has over 20 Albergues , we are told we do NOT offer blankets. Some have them from times gone by, they are held for emergencies.
An emergency is a snowstorm in summer, (it happens) you not bringing one doesn’t qualify……

Try sleeping with your windows open a home when it’s 3 degrees outside - typical temperature overnight in spring . Are you comfortable? If not, bring a sleeping bag, or be prepared to book private Albergues.

 

[Kathygd]

@Kathygd ,not all Albergues have blankets- I can think of a couple on the Primitivo that didn’t : The donativo in Grado, the Xunta I stayed in once I hit Galicia for example.
I’m doing my Hospitalero course as I type - waiting for breakfast- the association has over 20 Albergues , we are told we do NOT offer blankets. Some have them from times gone by, they are held for emergencies.
An emergency is a snowstorm in summer, (it happens) you not bringing one doesn’t qualify……

Try sleeping with your windows open a home when it’s 3 degrees outside - typical temperature overnight in spring . Are you comfortable? If not, bring a sleeping bag, or be prepared to book private Albergues.

Can you list ones that DO have blankets so I can attempt to stay at those?
Thanks for this info. It’s definitely helping me rethink this issue
Enjoy the hospitalero. I plan to walk that way weather and many other factors depending
Are you talking 3C or 3F? I’m in the US and it’s cooler than 3F today

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Can you list ones that DO have blankets so I can attempt to stay at those?
Thanks for this info. It’s definitely helping me rethink this issue
Enjoy the hospitalero. I plan to walk that way weather and many other factors depending
Are you talking 3C or 3F? I’m in the US and it’s cooler than 3F today

1/ sorry not really, I didn't take note of it because I never needed them. I do remember that Pascual had blankets. Somebody mentioned above that they stayed at private Albergues and they all had them, you could always PM them for a list.
One point for you to consider: many people have made the comment that blankets are seldom cleaned..... .
A lightweight bag can weigh as little as half a kilogram.

2) I'm a Kiwi, living in Germany - Celcius. Which incidentally is how all of Europe measures temperature, too - a point to consider when you're looking at a weather forecast!
In fact, Google says:
All the countries in the world with the exception of the United States, Myanmar and Liberia use the Celsius temperature scale.

3) Thanks the Hospitalero's training course was great, I'm now home once more.
The really neat thing was that a Jakobsweg (Camino) runs through the middle of the little town we were in so I got to walk a couple of k's before heading home! Felt great!!

 

[Kathygd]

I checked with private albergues. For my visa purposes I had to show bookings and they’re the only ones accepting bookings. I’m walking from April 10 to 28, and I have lot of fat layers on my body

Thank you for your reply. Buen camino!

 

[David Tallan]

I’m doing my Hospitalero course as I type - waiting for breakfast- the association has over 20 Albergues , we are told we do NOT offer blankets. Some have them from times gone by, they are held for emergencies.

Interesting. I don't think that was mentioned in my HOSVOL training in January.

 

[paulanuran]

I plan to spend a day at Oveido before starting. Any tips on what to do at Oviedo? I plan to take a walking tour if available. Any other restaurant, food suggestions? I also plan to visit the naranjo monuments