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MichaelC

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
May 2023: Via Francigena, Lucca to Rome
Next July some of my brothers and sisters will be walking part of either the Via Francigena or Via di Francesco. My sister and I will have three weeks; the rest of them only have about one week to walk. I'm excited to share with them at least part of the pilgrim experience, even though I know it will be quite different than the pilgrimages to Santiago.

I've read what I could find online, but still could use a little help in finalizing which section to do. I've narrowed it down to Lucca > Siena > Rome (Francigena) or La Verna > Assisi > Rome (Francesco).

Via Francigena goes through all the iconic towns. I like that we'd see them with different eyes than all the tour groups and day trippers. The guys who can only go for a week could do San Miniato to Radicofani. It goes through Tuscany, and everyone loves Tuscany. This would be a super fun cultural vacation. I'm sure we'd love it.

But I am also worried that the area is too touristy, especially at the height of summer. My memories of San Gimignano is of watching hundreds of visitors line up for whatever gelato Rick Steves told them to line up for. I'd prefer a more intimate experience. Also, July is the only time we can go, and I'm concerned about the lack of shade on the route.

The Via di Francesco appeals to me because it appears to blend the cultural with the spiritual a bit more, given it's focus on Saint Francis. I like that it goes through wilder areas. I like that it goes to less well known areas, which to me suggests we'd have a more direct connection to the local culture. And I'm guessing that Umbria is just as beautiful as Tuscany.

My concern here is timing. Some sites suggest La Verna to Assisi takes seven days, but others eight to nine. And it looks like getting from Assisi to Rome in 14 days would not leave much room for error.

My open questions involve cost (is one more expensive than the other?), pilgrimage infrastructure (I know there's less than in Spain, and I like that ... but I don't want to be in hotels the whole time), popularity (I'd like to meet a few other pilgrims!), and just a general sense of what the vibe is of the two.

(I'll cross-post on the Francigena forum)
 
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Next July some of my brothers and sisters will be walking part of either the Via Francigena or Via di Francesco. My sister and I will have three weeks; the rest of them only have about one week to walk. I'm excited to share with them at least part of the pilgrim experience, even though I know it will be quite different than the pilgrimages to Santiago.

I've read what I could find online, but still could use a little help in finalizing which section to do. I've narrowed it down to Lucca > Siena > Rome (Francigena) or La Verna > Assisi > Rome (Francesco).

Via Francigena goes through all the iconic towns. I like that we'd see them with different eyes than all the tour groups and day trippers. The guys who can only go for a week could do San Miniato to Radicofani. It goes through Tuscany, and everyone loves Tuscany. This would be a super fun cultural vacation. I'm sure we'd love it.

But I am also worried that the area is too touristy, especially at the height of summer. My memories of San Gimignano is of watching hundreds of visitors line up for whatever gelato Rick Steves told them to line up for. I'd prefer a more intimate experience. Also, July is the only time we can go, and I'm concerned about the lack of shade on the route.

The Via di Francesco appeals to me because it appears to blend the cultural with the spiritual a bit more, given it's focus on Saint Francis. I like that it goes through wilder areas. I like that it goes to less well known areas, which to me suggests we'd have a more direct connection to the local culture. And I'm guessing that Umbria is just as beautiful as Tuscany.

My concern here is timing. Some sites suggest La Verna to Assisi takes seven days, but others eight to nine. And it looks like getting from Assisi to Rome in 14 days would not leave much room for error.

My open questions involve cost (is one more expensive than the other?), pilgrimage infrastructure (I know there's less than in Spain, and I like that ... but I don't want to be in hotels the whole time), popularity (I'd like to meet a few other pilgrims!), and just a general sense of what the vibe is of the two.

(I'll cross-post on the Francigena forum)
Maybe this is helpfull : https://caminoways.com/ways/camino-...via-francigena-canterbury-rome-full-walk/book
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Umbria is lovely - and no where near as touristy as Tuscany. There are a few albergues on the Camino Assisi / Francesco, but not as many as on the VF in Tuscany. Though la Verna is definately worth visiting, you could take it more leisurely and begin in Asissi. That would give you plenty of time to cope with the strenuous hill towns of Umbria and you could enjoy it more. There are actually more pilgrim places before la Verna.

If you want wild country, begin in Davadola and finish in Assisi. You do need to regiester on the website with a start date - I am thinking that perhaps they are trying to manage the numbers moving along this route.
http://www.camminodiassisi.it/EN/

I had no idea that this part of the world was so remote and wild. It is spectactular scenery, but hard work - lots of up and down.

There is a very good map available for the VF in Tuscany - available on Book Depository (sorry - I copied and pasted and don't know how to make it smaller on my tablet - I am actually writing this while on the road). Via francigena in Toscana. Carta escursionistica 1 : 50.000
 
Thanks all.

Starting in Davodola sounds amazing, but I don’t think it’s for us this trip.

I’d already seen the Italian websites, and just picked up a copy of Sandy Brown’s guide. Now I’m thinking Assisi to Rieti, or vice versa, might be the best option. It seems to hit more culturally and historically significant sites for those who’d only join us for one week. The rest of us could continue to Roma.
 
There is a very good map available for the VF in Tuscany - available on Book Depository (sorry - I copied and pasted and don't know how to make it smaller on my tablet - I am actually writing this while on the road). Via francigena in Toscana. Carta escursionistica 1 : 50.000
Maybe a dumb question: Where do I find the "Book Depository"?
 
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A friend and I just returned last week from doing the Siena-Rome stages on the Via Francigena. It was an outstanding walk. Other than Siena, it was not touristy at all until we reached Rome. We remarked a few times about how there did not seem to be anyone about. Very few tourists in the streets or hotels, and very few pilgrims on the trail. In fact, we likely met about 10 others walking the VF over the 15 days we were out there. In the next week or two I will be writing up some observations on this section, but we both enjoyed it immensely. Be prepared for lots of ups and downs, as very little of it is flat.
 

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