Itinerary for first Camino 2015

[michello]

Hola!

I am planning to walk Camino Frances starting from St Jean Pied de Port around Sept 1st. I will be solo and hoping to stay at pilgrim and private albergues. I am mid 40s and have done some multiday walks eg Annapurna Circuit, Milford Track but never one this long. I am planning on walking 25-30km a day. Other factors influencing my choice of where to stop each night are if it sounds like an interesting/atmospheric town that I would like to sightsee in or if there's a fantastic albergue that justifies one town over another. Bearing in mind that plans may change depending on unforeseen circumstances, lack of accommodation, physical exhaustion etc, I plotted out the following as a rough itinerary - I've based it on the Brierley stages but adjusted it a bit to suit me. I would be grateful for any tips/comments/,especially where I can't decide (marked by [??])! Many thanks to you all.

Day 1: St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Day 2: To Zubiri or Larrasoana
Day 3: To Pamplona
Day 4: To Puenta La Reina
Day 5: To Estella
Day 6: To Los Arcos
Day 7: To Logrono
Day 8: Rest day in Logrono
Day 9: To Najera
Day 10: To Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Day 11: To Belorado
Day 12: To Ages or Atapuerca
Day 13: To Burgos
Day 14: Rest day in Burgos
Day 15: [??] To Hontanas. Stopping at Hornillos del Camino seems too short for a day's walk (20km) unless there's loads to do there.
Day 16: [??] To Boadilla del Camino. Would like to see Castrojerez but only 9km from Hontanas so too early to stop there for the night; might have brunch there then push onto Boadilla del Camino (really want to stop at Fromista but too far to get there today)
Day 17: [??] To Carrion de los Condes. Maybe have breakfast in Fromista and look around (will an hour or so be long enough?) then visit Templar church and have lunch at Villalcazar de Sirga. Will be late getting into Carrion de los Condes I think with all my sight seeing en route - hope will still be able to get a bed for the night!
Day 18: To Terradillos de los Templarios
Day 19: [??] These next few days are my biggest question marks. I've heard most people stop in Sahagun, but seems like too short (13km) for a day's walk unless there's loads to see in Sahagun (is there?). So I thought push on. Which route to take - via Romana to Hermanillos sounds quieter and more traditional (but I've heard very remote and deserted) or road route to El Burgo Ranero. Both towns sound OK but seems like more accommodation in EBR. Not sure.
Day 20: To Mansilla de las Mulas. [??] via Romana or road route
Day 21: To Leon
Day 22: Rest day in Leon
Day 23: [??] Country roads to Villar de Mazariffe OR along train line to Villadangos del Paramo OR along road toVilladangos
Day 24: To Astorga
Day 25: Rest day in Astorga
Day 26: To Foncebadon
Day 27: To Ponferrada
Day 28: To Villafranca del Bierzo
Day 29: To O'Cebriero
Day 30: [??] To Samos (longer walk 31km but then shorter 15km to Sarria next day so can spend more time sightseeing in Sarria. Worth doing guided tour of Samos monastery (do they do tours in English?) OR To Tricastela (seems like more accommodation here. Nice town?)
Day 31: To Sarria
Day 32: [??] To Gonzar (30km, instead of 23km to Portmarin, so that tomorrow's walk to Palas de Rei is shorter to give more time to detour to Vilar de Donas enroute)
Day 33: To Ribadiso
Day 34: To Arcos do Pino
Day 35: To Santiago de Compostela

Phew!

Gracias, Michello

 

[naplesdon]

Rest days in larger towns can be problematic, an extra night's stay in a hostal or casa rurale could be $$$. I've found a rest day in a place off the track more relaxing and I plan my rest days as ones when I walk less than 10km. The Samos monastery tours are in Spanish, but not impossible to understand. Don't tie yourself to a rigid agenda, it does rain from now and then and slow down your pace, so do blisters and shin splints.

 

[fraluchi]

I am planning to walk Camino Frances starting from St Jean Pied de Port around Sept 1st. [...]
Phew!

On paper it looks very feasible. However...
You may want to be conditioned by fellow pilgrims, weather, and all sorts of encounters which make this Camino so special. Keep your list as a broad outline but don't try to rely on it.
Ultreya!

 

[Walli Walker]

Michello, don't overthink it, just go with the flow, it'll all work out. There are far too many variables to plot every nights stop on a walk of this length.
Enjoy and buen camino.
Jacki.

 

[SYates]

I think the best two tips I can give you are not to follow the Brierley stages and not to overplan your whole Camino in advance.
Buen Camino, SY

 

[scruffy1]

Far too much to sum up will give a short overview take it and run. Burgos, Leon, and Astorga, all deserve a rest day since there is much to see in each - however - you may find yourself walking almost as much as a regular day on the Camino only in cities with sidewalks and asphalt! Beyond the obvious, Monasterio de las Huelgas in Burgos and San Isodoro (take the tour!!!) in Leon should be visited. Hontanas, Castrojerez, and yes Sarria not much to see or do Samos is a lovely place-stay in one of the private albergues, Carrion de los Condes would be a lovely place to look around and maybe spend a day-just before CdlC is the village of Villalcazar don't miss Santa Maria la Blanca church 5 minutes off the Camino. Boadilla del Camino is the village to stay, En El Camino is a family run albergue grandbabies to Grandpa running the place, Fromista has a church/museum if you enjoy Romanesque sculpture (I do) if you don't Keep on Trucking. Sahagun has an incredible brick church if you enjoy churches if not KoT. Concerning O'Cebriero opinion differs, I don't like the place others do, if you are brave the inn there is the place to try pulpo, octopus, just beyond in Hospital de la Condesa is a small clean and warm albergue-the village has a Byzantine looking church. Vilar de Donas is again a church/museum an easy 5 kilometers round trip from the Camino I loved it. Avoid Os Chacotes the so-called pilgrims pavillion go on into Palas de Rei. Arca o Pina is a better choice then Monte del Gozo, a barracks-like structure despite tradition. That will do for now, Buen Camino

 

[wayfarer]

Welcome Michello,
Day 2: Zubiri
Day 4: Uterga, lovely albergue and is a short day after the Alto de Perdon.
The rest looks fine but let circumstances guide your stops too.
Buen Camino.

 

[Al the optimist]

For our first Camino we are all nervous, we all over purchase, over pack, and over plan. Once on the way the nerves subside, we ditch weight and eventually stop planning so much. We start to go with our flow and that of those we have collected along the way. Then we near Santiago and planning starts up again. Hands up all here who planned the last couple of days and then changed those plans while walking them? How many ended up in SDC a day earlier? Enjoy this time Michello, enjoy the excitement, ask all the stupid questions you can think of, embrace the companionship of this forum which reflects that which you will encounter on your Camino. AND Buen Camino!!!

 

[dougfitz]

I did similar planning, which made me comfortable that I could achieve what I wanted to do. Once on the Camino, don't expect the plan to hold for more than the first week, if that. You will learn what you can achieve, press on to stay with friends, stop short because you are tired from being blown around by cross winds or just want a short day. Brierley's stages are a convenient way for him to organize his guide, but only you know the best way to organize your walk, and you need to be prepared to change that as you learn more from doing it.

 

[Walter1407]

Book your first night on the Camino in advance. The rest book at short notice, or not at all. Weather and the people you might join up with, as well as blisters (or maybe a hang-over) will set your pace. It's a good idea to have some days to play with, but if nothing delays you 35 days should be enough for an experienced hiker. If you have managed the Milford Track, you won't have problems on the Camino.

 

[Scott Sweeney]

Several of these places at days end I would pass by if I was ever to do that again (lets say in about 2 months). I think they would fall into that category of been there, seen that. Just saying, for us Zubiri won't be hosting us and our backpacks overnight again. But then that is just us.

 

[kmrice]

Rest days in larger towns can be problematic, an extra night's stay in a hostal or casa rurale could be $$$.

That's very true, but for us, the cathedrals in Burgos and Leon really required a extra day to see and were worth the cost.

When we walked SJPdP to Santiago in 2013, I meticulously planned out every day's walk, months in advance, and each night's stay, with mathematical precision. Got to Orisson on day 1 and Rancevaux on day 2 as planned, but after that we got off our schedule and never got back on. As the others have said, don't over plan. Either you'll go off plan pretty quick, or the plan will interfere with enjoying your camino.

Karl

 

[WldWil]

I had to read twice. It almost looked like one my very early posts when I was trying to squeeze a trip down into so many days. Unless someone has the ability or the extra days or free life style to do so, I can really relate in the planning. I do hope there will be a time available -sometime- where I can do the Camino in this way. For now, strict start and stop dates dictate if I want to go now instead of waiting 15 years. Also be thankful if you are not traveling 7,000+ km to get there.

I agree with the earlier plan to have a guide, but make sure you run your trip and not the plan.

 

[Kathy F.]

You're overthinking.Overplanning.

1. Take a good guidebook (I like the Brierly).
2. Walk.
3. Use the guidebook to figure out where the upcoming albergues are.
4. Pay attention to your physical condition and be comfortable with stopping when your body tells you it is done for the day. Pay special attention to your feet.
5. Especially, take it easy the first week of your Camino.
6. Pay no attention to plans you may have prepared in advance (your original post) nor to Brierley's "stages." He offers them as a guideline, not as a "must do."
7. Stop and smell the roses, take sidetrips, and have adventures.

Buen Camino

Kathy

 

[david g]

As noted before, plans always have a way of changing. Don't be surprised if you give up rest days in exchange for continuing on to Finisterre. And if you do take rest days and split your time between albergues and private accommodations in the same town, go to the private one first. That way you have the option to sleep in the next day, if that's something you're after.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi @michello,

Your itinerary looks fine and it's a good basis for planning the 'parameters' of your Camino - i.e. flights etc. As others have said, you'll probably make changes as you go along, but you're already open to that.

I second @scruffy1's recommendation for En el Camino in Boadilla. It is a real oasis and is run by the loveliest people you could meet. If you fancy a little bit of luxury, they recently opened a Casa with private rooms. You still get the albergue experience (great communal meal, gardens, bar) but with a comfy bed and a nice bathroom. However, the albergue itself is also really good.

Re. day 23: the off-road walk to Villar de Mazarif is a very refreshing break from all the concrete on the way in and out of Leon. I also loved the walk out of Mazarif the next day.

Also - I agree with @SYates re not sticking with the Brierley stages. Some of the 'in between' places are fantastic. One of my happiest Camino memories is of the small Dutch albergue (Hogar?) in Villamayor de Monjardin.

I hope you have a wonderful Camino!

Nuala

 

[clearskiescamino]

There's alot of good advice here @michello
Try not to plan where you are staying and let the Camino guide you.

I would recommend staying in Rabanal rather than Foncebadon, I enjoyed my time in the albergue there.
En el Camino in Boadilla is great, and hopefully I can stop by again this May myself.

What ever you decide to do, Buen Camino!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

.

 

[4329barbara]

I am starting my Camino on May 8th, booked Orisson the first night then freelancing the rest. I originally had it planned out to the day, but was concerned that I wouldn't have time off for enjoyment or injury, then I found out my daughter has breast cancer so a big diversion to Edinburgh is going to happen. Instead of going like a race horse I am going to walk for four weeks as slow and enjoyable as I can then go and see my baby girl and come back to the Camino in a couple of years with her. Guess this has taught me, already, enjoy the moment, relax, smell the flowers and make the most of family, friends, health and new adventures. Buen Camino to everyone.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I am starting my Camino on May 8th, booked Orisson the first night then freelancing the rest. I originally had it planned out to the day, but was concerned that I wouldn't have time off for enjoyment or injury, then I found out my daughter has breast cancer so a big diversion to Edinburgh is going to happen. Instead of going like a race horse I am going to walk for four weeks as slow and enjoyable as I can then go and see my baby girl and come back to the Camino in a couple of years with her. Guess this has taught me, already, enjoy the moment, relax, smell the flowers and make the most of family, friends, health and new adventures. Buen Camino to everyone.

So sorry to hear about the difficult news you have received. By walking your Camino the way you describe it, you will have something wonderful to bring and share with her as she goes through the difficult months ahead of her.

 

[Al the optimist]

My heart goes out to you Barbara. I had a scare recently when it was thought that my daughter might have a cancer. Fortunately she hasn't but a few near and dear ones have had this terrible curse so I empathise with your predicament. I applaud your reaction. May you enjoy your Camino and get strength from it to deal with this difficult time. My prayers are with you and your daughter.

 

[Kathy F.]

I am starting my Camino on May 8th, booked Orisson the first night then freelancing the rest. I originally had it planned out to the day, but was concerned that I wouldn't have time off for enjoyment or injury, then I found out my daughter has breast cancer so a big diversion to Edinburgh is going to happen. Instead of going like a race horse I am going to walk for four weeks as slow and enjoyable as I can then go and see my baby girl and come back to the Camino in a couple of years with her. Guess this has taught me, already, enjoy the moment, relax, smell the flowers and make the most of family, friends, health and new adventures. Buen Camino to everyone.

Barbara, what sad news. But you and your daughter are going to do well. Please have faith and let us know how things go for you and for her.

 

[michello]

Far too much to sum up will give a short overview take it and run. Burgos, Leon, and Astorga, all deserve a rest day since there is much to see in each - however - you may find yourself walking almost as much as a regular day on the Camino only in cities with sidewalks and asphalt! Beyond the obvious, Monasterio de las Huelgas in Burgos and San Isodoro (take the tour!!!) in Leon should be visited. Hontanas, Castrojerez, and yes Sarria not much to see or do Samos is a lovely place-stay in one of the private albergues, Carrion de los Condes would be a lovely place to look around and maybe spend a day-just before CdlC is the village of Villalcazar don't miss Santa Maria la Blanca church 5 minutes off the Camino. Boadilla del Camino is the village to stay, En El Camino is a family run albergue grandbabies to Grandpa running the place, Fromista has a church/museum if you enjoy Romanesque sculpture (I do) if you don't Keep on Trucking. Sahagun has an incredible brick church if you enjoy churches if not KoT. Concerning O'Cebriero opinion differs, I don't like the place others do, if you are brave the inn there is the place to try pulpo, octopus, just beyond in Hospital de la Condesa is a small clean and warm albergue-the village has a Byzantine looking church. Vilar de Donas is again a church/museum an easy 5 kilometers round trip from the Camino I loved it. Avoid Os Chacotes the so-called pilgrims pavillion go on into Palas de Rei. Arca o Pina is a better choice then Monte del Gozo, a barracks-like structure despite tradition. That will do for now, Buen Camino

Wow, what a fantastic response! Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and suggestions. Totally agree that I am overthinking and overplanning and things will change and my plan will go out the window - but I can't help myself! But seriously, one of the things I hope to gain from my Camino is the ability to be more flexible and roll with the punches. Almost lost my nerve yesterday though - I'd heard September was a good time of the year to Camino, but I saw a report that said that in 2013 and 2014 there were heatwaves at that time with peak temperatures in the mid-high 30s (degrees Celsius) until mid September! Would not be much fun walking in that. Was anyone on Camino at that time and can you confirm whether those reports were true?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Was anyone on Camino at that time and can you confirm whether those reports were true?

Absolutely true. I was on the Camino del Norte, and it got up to 34degrees on some days. I think I have a picture of the "clock" of the Santillana del Mar farmacy showing 34degrees. But the upside was that in 3 weeks I only got 1 day of rain. It was torrential, and record setting in some places, but I was expecting many many more rainy days than that. So I would not make a decision based on the past couple of years - look at what the norm is, and then plan for something vastly different, like Mayt 2013 and record cold temps.

 

[michello]

Absolutely true. I was on the Camino del Norte, and it got up to 34degrees on some days. I think I have a picture of the "clock" of the Santillana del Mar farmacy showing 34degrees. But the upside was that in 3 weeks I only got 1 day of rain. It was torrential, and record setting in some places, but I was expecting many many more rainy days than that. So I would not make a decision based on the past couple of years - look at what the norm is, and then plan for something vastly different, like Mayt 2013 and record cold temps.

I was afraid you'd say that! Would be much easier with a crystal ball! Just chatted to a friend who was there in September 2013 and he said it was up to 30degrees but can't recall it being dreadful as was reported in the UK newspapers I read online. Maybe it's all a matter of perspective (we are from Australia)...

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Rest days in larger towns can be problematic, an extra night's stay in a hostal or casa rurale could be $$$. I've found a rest day in a place off the track more relaxing and I plan my rest days as ones when I walk less than 10km. The Samos monastery tours are in Spanish, but not impossible to understand. Don't tie yourself to a rigid agenda, it does rain from now and then and slow down your pace, so do blisters and shin splints.

We got the tour in English.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Wow, what a fantastic response! Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and suggestions. Totally agree that I am overthinking and overplanning and things will change and my plan will go out the window - but I can't help myself! But seriously, one of the things I hope to gain from my Camino is the ability to be more flexible and roll with the punches. Almost lost my nerve yesterday though - I'd heard September was a good time of the year to Camino, but I saw a report that said that in 2013 and 2014 there were heatwaves at that time with peak temperatures in the mid-high 30s (degrees Celsius) until mid September! Would not be much fun walking in that. Was anyone on Camino at that time and can you confirm whether those reports were true?

I walked CF in August-September 2013 and loved the weather. The warmer days I just had to carry more water or walk earlier

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Your preferred stops are so different from what I did so I can't really comment on the selected cities/villages but some input regarding route.
Roncevalles was nice.
I came to Pamplona quite late so I could find a bed in an albergue, had to stay at a pension. Nice town to walk in in the evening. Buy some salami.
Puenta La Reina had a lovely churchm stayed at the albergue with the pool in the end of the town, got one of the last beds.
Carrion de los Condes was also I town I liked but a lot of people got sick by drinking the water there. I loved to sit at one of the cafés and watching pilgrims passing by.
Agés looked nice when I passed, stopped in Atapuerca, was ok but quite dead place.
I did stop in Sahagún and I really liked that town. Had my best tortilla there
I loved the remote and quiet road to Hermanillos and Hermanillos was nice as well, I was there during the tomato festival.
I took the Romana road, if i could avoid roads I did so. Nice walk.
The country road to Villar de Mazariffe also a nice walk.
I liked Samos, a camino friend took the other way and liked it as well. I think the tour at Samos monastery was good. Good history lesson.
Just walked through Sarria, didn't like the atmosphere there at all. I stopped in Vilacha 2 km before Portomarin in a superb albergue.

Buen Camino!

 

[michello]

Your preferred stops are so different from what I did so I can't really comment on the selected cities/villages but some input regarding route.
Roncevalles was nice.
I came to Pamplona quite late so I could find a bed in an albergue, had to stay at a pension. Nice town to walk in in the evening. Buy some salami.
Puenta La Reina had a lovely churchm stayed at the albergue with the pool in the end of the town, got one of the last beds.
Carrion de los Condes was also I town I liked but a lot of people got sick by drinking the water there. I loved to sit at one of the cafés and watching pilgrims passing by.
Agés looked nice when I passed, stopped in Atapuerca, was ok but quite dead place.
I did stop in Sahagún and I really liked that town. Had my best tortilla there
I loved the remote and quiet road to Hermanillos and Hermanillos was nice as well, I was there during the tomato festival.
I took the Romana road, if i could avoid roads I did so. Nice walk.
The country road to Villar de Mazariffe also a nice walk.
I liked Samos, a camino friend took the other way and liked it as well. I think the tour at Samos monastery was good. Good history lesson.
Just walked through Sarria, didn't like the atmosphere there at all. I stopped in Vilacha 2 km before Portomarin in a superb albergue.

Buen Camino!

Thank you for your thoughts, so many good options...I'm starting to understand why so many people return to do this walk again. Can't wait!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Have a plan. Without one, you will have a hard time gauging if you are ahead or behind meeting your flight home! However, do not be rigid in following it. If you are a day ahead, you can stop in a town longer, walk shorter days to avoid the heat, or take side trips. If you are behind, you will know to think about actions to move ahead. Having a plan does not stop you from being spontaneous. It just means you have thought it through.

 

[Mikel Olivares]

Hi Michello
My advice. Don't make plans for the entire Camino.
Let the Camino be surprised every day.
Buen Camino.