It's very hot on the VdlP

[Anna-Marie]

Hi from Monesterio!

I've been walking for five days now, and it's extremely hot--the weather is crazy, as an hospitalera told me. It's been at least high 20s (Celsius)--maybe low 30s, I'm not sure. It's quite cool in the early morning, but by afternoon it's very hot walking, though it's still nice in the shade.

I don't have time to write more now, but I've written a lot more details in my blog (in my signature) if you're interested in up-to-date information on the first few stages.

Hope this helps.

Anna-Marie

 

[Sagalouts]

Hi Anna-Marie
loving the blog.thanks for posting-
two days left before I drive down to Merida and Salamanca for Easter,so keep the sun shining
buen Camino
Ian

 

[andy.d]

Go well Anna-Marie - that brings back lots of heat memories for me. Keep going, keep enjoying,

Andy

 

[peregrina2000]

You're on your way, Anna-Marie. Thanks for posting on your blog. I wonder if you enjoyed any of that famous jamon iberico while in Monesterio. As an aside for you health conscious folks, a guy who produces it told me a few weeks ago that the fat of the jamon iberico is high in omega-3. Hard to believe, I know, but a quick google search seems to back it up. Turns out it's the acorn diet that is responsible, at least if you can believe what they say.

But back to the weather. Last year, I arrived in Sevilla on May 1. They had just experienced a week long heat wave. On May 2, when I started to walk, it was cold, and the cold lasted almost to Caceres. You are unlikely to have sweltering weather the whole time, so hang in there and keep in touch. Buen camino, there are tons of us here in cyber land who would trade places with you, heat and all, in a nano-second. Laurie

 

[handzondeck2]

Thanks for the update Anne Marie
i follow in your footsteps next week around Tuesday. Hopefully the weather will remain nice and warm

Buen camino
safe journey
Sharon

 

[ranthr]

Buen camino Anna- Marie.
Enjoyed reading your blog. Hope the nice weather dries up the arroyos along the via.
I am starting from Sevilla in two weeks and your blog give us a perfect updating on the route.
Have a wonderful time!
Randi

 

[mmm042]

Hi.

I don't think a previous message I wrote to VDLP'ers got posted, so since lots of you are headed over there soon (and Anna-Marie is there now!), I'll write it again. Be aware that there's crucial missing signage before Galisteo. Everyone walking around the same time I did (mid-March) walked an extra 10k that day!

Here's how to avoid it:

When you leave the highway to Riolobos, you'll start along a trail that will soon following a winding concrete canal. There are hitos marking the path (those metal boxes with the Caparra arch on top). About three miles from the road, you'll see Galisteo to your left in the distance.

Look for a slightly-arched gate marked with a sign that says No Trespassing (“Prohibo El Paso Camino Particular”). This is the gate you need to pass through. A Spaniard said the owner got mad and painted over the arrows and removed the hito that were there. Once you get to the gate, you'll see a tiny "Peregrinos O.K." scratched into the sign.

You only walk a short stretch on this land, then come through another gate and then you'll see markers everywhere.

Good luck!
Melanie

 

[ria]

hello anna-marie,
your blog is sooo nice: brings back good memories of my plata last year. keep on walking & writing!
ria

 

[peregrina2000]

Just heard from a friend who is a few days behind Anna Marie -- the heat has broken -- highs are now in the mid-20s celsius (which I think is around high 70s). Enjoy, peregrinos. Laurie

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Considering it will be over 100 in August, Sevilla is relatively cool now with a daily high just above 80 degrees.

2011 Temp. (°F)
Apr high avg low
1 84 70 57
2 77 67 57
3 64 60 57 Rain
4 77 64 51
5 75 66 57
6 86 74 62
7 87 71 55
8 87 70 53
9 77 65 53
10 80 66 53
11 82 68 55
12 80 68 55
13 86 72 57
14 86 68 51
15 80 68 57
16 82 70 57
17 78 68 57

 

[Anna-Marie]

Thanks for the good wishes, everyone!

It's definitely cooler--it even looks seriously like rain, just outside Villafranca de los Barros.

Ian - If you're going to Salamanca first, maybe I'll see you in Merida!

Andy - I can hardly imagine the heat you had to deal with! I was walking a bit with my eyes closed on the 30km day, and thought of you. Wasn't quite sleeping, though.

Laurie - I'm a vegetarian, but I did enjoy a lot of pig-watching.

Sharon and Randi - Buen camino to you both, too!

Melanie - Thanks for the info!

Falcon - It was hotter. I know summer is horrifically hot--that's why we all came now! Everyone (locals, too) has been talking about the unseasonable heat.

I really am glad to be here no matter what the weather, but it's so much nicer now that it's not so hot in the afternoons. It's physically a lot easier and I can slow down and enjoy the walk in the mornings without worrying that I'm going to pay for it later. And I don't have to worry about how far I've walked at any given time since I'm not worried about rationing water.

If anyone who's about to walk has questions, please post them or PM me and I'll answer next time I get on the Internet. I try to post all the practical information I can think of on my blog, but I'm sure I've left out important details.

Anna-Marie

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Anna-Marie,
Glad the weather has cooperated a bit. Sounds much more enjoyable for you now.

I stopped last spring for a coffee at the albergue at Almanzara, and it was VERY good coffee, some of the best I had on the Vdlp. The woman in charge told us that she and her husband had recently received the license from the Junta de Extremadura to run this albergue (this is one of those albergues turisticos, like the one in Fuente de Cantos, Banos de Montemayor, Torremegia, the Embalse de Alcantara, etc -- owned by the government, and operated by a private party).

The family also owns a very popular restaurant in Villafranca de los Barros, and sthe woman was at that time getting the restaurant side of the albergue in Almanzara up and ready to go. I assume it's functioning now, did you eat there? It seemed kind of fancy for the average peregrino -- white linen tablecloths, fine china, and nice glassware, but maybe there's a special pilgrim deal!

Onward, ultreya to you, peregrina! Laurie

 

[andy.d]

Hi Anna-Marie,

I found that for the eyes completely to close I had to be in hotter temperatures, to be walking along a long and straight and quiet section, and to be nearing 40km's. It's an interesting experience!

I'm glad the weather is treating you better.

go well,

Andy

 

[LTfit]

Hi Anna-Marie,

Many thanks for posting and your informative blog!
Whatever updates you can post will be must appreciated. I am already taking notes (also tks to Melanie) for my upcoming trip.

A bit off-topic but I experienced the eye-closure/sleep-walking a few times last summer along the Camino Francés - must have been a combination of sleep deprivation (snorers...), heat and exhaustion!

Wishing you well!

Cheer,
LT

 

[Anna-Marie]

I stopped last spring for a coffee at the albergue at Almanzara, and it was VERY good coffee, some of the best I had on the Vdlp. The woman in charge told us that she and her husband had recently received the license from the Junta de Extremadura to run this albergue (this is one of those albergues turisticos, like the one in Fuente de Cantos, Banos de Montemayor, Torremegia, the Embalse de Alcantara, etc -- owned by the government, and operated by a private party).

The family also owns a very popular restaurant in Villafranca de los Barros, and sthe woman was at that time getting the restaurant side of the albergue in Almanzara up and ready to go. I assume it's functioning now, did you eat there? It seemed kind of fancy for the average peregrino -- white linen tablecloths, fine china, and nice glassware, but maybe there's a special pilgrim deal!

Yes, the restaurant is up and running, and the food is very good. The pilgrim's menu was 9.50 euros--just a little bit more than I've paid other places. There seems to be a really nice part in the back with linen etc (the rooms are beautiful, and show off the olive press)--but most people were eating in the less-nice, presumably cheaper, part by the bar.

Weather-wise, I guess this is a case of be careful what you wish for. The temperature's been great the last two days, but it's intermittently drizzly and definitely muddy, with the occasional downpour. Oh, well, still beautiful. I'm taking a rest day here in Merida tomorrow to admire the ruins.

Take care,
Anna-Marie

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Anna-Marie,
So good to hear from you. In Merida already, wow! I think all of Spain is having crazy weather, so hang in there, you'll get your spring back I bet.

Hope you enjoy your day in Merida. I visited the Alcazar, which I hadn't done on previous visits, and it was very nice. There are some visigothic carved slabs that are pretty darn beautiful. Nice spot for walking around and enjoying ruins and a view of the bridge. But of course those Roman ruins are attraction #1. (in fact, if you are using internet at the public library, you'll see the ground floor is an excavation site with the library on top -- creative engineering, that's for sure)

Buen camino to you peregrina. Laurie

 

[SueH]

It is raining today in Seville and the pasos (parades) are not happening. It is cold too, 18C or less. Forecast is for rain until Monday. When I start walking. Lots of ladies in mantillas.
Hope all is going well Sharon.
Sue

 

[Alan Pearce]

It was very cold this morning in Salamanca. I noticed it particularly because I had put most of my clothes in the laundry and was left with only short trousers and a shirt and jumper to wear. I got very cold watching the Easter procession but would not have missed it for anything. It was very dramatic and came to a conclusion when they manouvered the giant floats in through the doors of the cathedral, to much applause from the large crowd that was watching.

Tomorrow I walk 36 km to El Cubo del Vino. Rain is forecast for then, but Sunday and Monday are looking good at this stage,

Cheers to SueH and to Sharon following behind, and Lynne soon to begin from Huelva. May you enjoy yourselves as much as I have been.

Buen camino

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.

 

[handzondeck2]

Hi to all the Aussies
Rain for three days looks like it is. Clearing up. On to Monesterio tomorrow.
Sharon

 

[Alan Pearce]

In Zamora today after a lovely walk through gently undulating country. Booked in to the great albergue. Spent last night in the albergue at El Cubo Del Vino, where Philipe was our lively host and where there were only 2 beds vacant. The walk to there from Salamanca is not much fun, but made up for by the walk today. The rain has held off with only light scuds on and off during the day. Even so the road in places was a bit slippery and would have been very difficult going some days ago after the rain, especially the red clay areas
It is about 17 degrees at 5 in the afternoon so is warmer than it has been. Hopefully the luck with the rain will hold. Buen camino to all.
Alan

 

[Alan Pearce]

Little did I know that as I sent my last post from Zamora that it was raining heavily outside. I was horrified to find that as I tried to leave the internet cafe it was raining so heavily that I could not get back to the albergue to get my washing off the line. I eventually arrived back there only to find that Jaimie the hospitalero had taken every ones washing inside as it started to rain, and that most of my stuff was virtually dry. Thank you, thank you Jaimie|
I walked from Zamora to Riego del Camino the next day in cool to cold weather. The albergue is at 32 Calle Espana and the key is at 3 Calle Espana, which is a bit different to what my guide book saya. Another late afternoon storm caught some late arrivals, and it was a cold night.
The 36 km walk to Tabara the next day made it 4 days in a row of more than 30km. Again the weather was cool to cold and the bit where you cross Rio Esla and turn sharp lelt to follow the river bank was nearly as tough as some of the difficult sections of the del Norte. Signage was not easy to follow on this part but I made my way withiut getting lost. The albergue in Tabara was good, just a long way from anywhere else in town, My guide book said to get the sello at a tabaco shop but he directed me to the Bar Scriptorium. They are on your left immediately before you enter the Plaza Mayor and also have the key for the albergue if you are the first to arrive. The albergue is donativo and there was no hospialero in sight all evening, so we just made our donation and left in the morning without having been registered, There were 16 beds there and 11 were occupied. There was no toilet paper there when I arrived so as part of my donation I left 2 rolls.
A cold morning again for the 22 km doddle to Santa Ctoya where we are booked in to Casa Anita. So far it is living up to its great reputation, the only problem being that it is miles from the nearest bar| Seriously though we have been made very welcome and are looking forward to the communal meal tonight, It is a beautiful sunny day outside now and tomorrow is set to be the same, but Sabardo and Domingo are looking decidedly dodgy. Fingers crossed|
Buen camino to all peregrinos out there, and to the Aussies in particular.
Alan
Be brave. Life is joyous.

 

[CaroleH]

It does seem a bit ironic reading about the heat on Vdlp a ffew weeks ago...... it sure has been changeable. We were so cold in Aracena, a couple of days ago, on the way to Zafra (camino sur) and the rain so heavy, we were huddling around a heater in a hotel room. Now in Villafranca de Barros, and the thunder is rumbling and rain falling. Hope it will clear by tomorrow.

Buen camin o everyone. Carole

 

[alexwalker]

Alan:

I am starting from Seville on Thursday.

 

[lynnejohn]

We are holed up here in Zafra right now after enduring blistering (literally) heat for the first couple of days out of Huelva, then huge thunder and lightening storms and heavy rain for several days. Our boots have been totally soaked, and my husband has open blisters. A bright spot - we met up with CaroleH and her husband and spent a lovely time with them in Aracena and Zafra. We must wait a couple more days for the foot to heal and then we´ll be on our way. Hopefully the rain will have abated and the Way will be drier. We are so happy to finally be here and have nothing but positive thoughts for the rest of the journey.

Buen camino a todos!

lynne

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Lynne and Carole

I suppose the silver lining here is that you two have met face to face and have shared some nice time together. Glad to hear your spirits are high and that you look forward to continuing along this way with gusto! So much beauty ahead of you. Sending lots of strong cyber-vibes your way, and a hearty Buen Camino. Laurie

 

[Alan Pearce]

A quick update on my trip. I finished the last post by mentioning Casa Anita in Santa Croya Anita is no longer the front person, that role is filled my Ana her daughter. She was a delight, and the stay there an absolute highlight of our journey.
From there we walked to Rio Negro where there is a new albergue which was great. Clean, spacious and right on the way into town. We all shared a meal at Bar Palacio opposite, and everyone enjoyed themselves. The walk to Rio Negro was filled with sunlight, flowers and birdsong, a day to treasure.
More tomottow from Orense
Alan
Be brave. Life is joyous

 

[Anna-Marie]

It's great to hear from all of you on other parts of the route! I've had a bit more rain, but it's now perfect spring weather here in Salamanca--even a bit chilly in the shade.

Buen Camino to everyone!

Anna-Marie

 

[Alan Pearce]

It is 20 degrees here in SdC here today and 25bforecast for tomorrow. I will post some more then, Can someone confirm that the new albergue is up and running the tourist oddice here knows nothing about it

 

[Alan Pearce]

The question I tried to pose yesterday was about the new albergue in Dumbria! Apologies. I have been carrying a chest infection for 2 weeks now and I will blame my mistake on that. It leaves me short of breath on any hills, which is not the ideal thing to have when walking in Galicia. I am heartily sick of coughing most of the time, as are my companions. I will not post anything more on my trip until I get back to Australia and start to feel well again. One thing I would comment on though is that I found it sad last night when talking to Jean-Pierre from France. We saw a lot of each other over the past 1000 km, and he was saying yesterday how dejected he was that the camino had finished. I am not sad that my camino is nearly over. On the other hand, I am joyous that it began.

buen camino

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.