Marc S.
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Some in Spain, Portugal, Germany and Netherlands
I have just walked The Nordrheinische Jakobsweg from Nijmegen to Koln and liked to share this little report with the forum.
I actually attempted to walk this Jakobsweg two years ago, but ended up doing nice walks near the river Rhine, watching the boats float by.. Now I tried again, as I had an urgent desire to follow shells.
Nijmegen is an interesting town but - as I have visited it many times before - I decided to start in Emmerich/Elten and join the Jakosbweg in Kleve (this stretchis actually also waymarked).
I walked app 120 km in the following stages: Emmerich/Elten – Kleve – Appeldorn (just behind Kalkar) – Vinjen (just before Xanten) - Rheinberg/Ossenberg – Orsoy – Moers – Krefeld, From there it is another 70 km to Koln (via Neuss and Dormagen), but I did not have enough time for this. Koln, of course though, is very much worth visiting.
The Jakobsweg more or less follows the course of the old Roman road (no traces of it are visible though). The city of Xanten may be particularly of interest for those interested in Roman history, as it hosts the Archaeological Park, one of the largest archaelogical open air museums in the world, built at the site of the Roman settlements Colonia Ulpia Traiana.
It was a pleasant walk. The landscape may not be spectacular, but I was mainly walking through forests and open lands, without any serious elevatons, and some little old towns with a nice laidback feel such Kalkar, Xanten, Rheinberg and Orsoy. The industrial Ruhr area is nearby, particularly once you have passed Rheinberg. For me it gave an interesting contrast of walking on quiet paths – but sometimes seeing chimneys and factories on the other ( east) side of the river Rhine.
As expected, there were no other pilgrims, at least I did not see them. I was invited in for a coffee by someone who was actually really pleased to see someone walking this Jakobsweg. He said there were more people walking in the past – I do not know if and why this is the case. However, this area of Germany is mostly very popular for cycling.
Waymarking
Waymarking is excellent. There is no shortage of stickers with a yellow shell on a blue blackground.
In addition, I used the German guide book – which is excellent on providing background information, but rather outdated on the practicalities (it is from 2009). https://www.amazon.nl/dp/3761621914/
Another Invaluable source of information (also providing GPS tracks) is of course: http://www.jakobswege-europa.de/wege/nordrhein.htm
Accomodation
Pilgrim infrastructure is virtually non-existing. Although there actually is a pilgrim Herberg (three beds) in Emmerich. http://jakobus-camino-emmerich.de/ (for some reason, it is not mentioned in any listings)
For the first time ever I completely pre-booked my accomocation. I stayed in hotels and Gasthofe in the 50-60 euro range (including breakfast). I noticed no significant increase in prices as compared to pre-covid times two years ago. It is possible to find cheaper accomodation, when staying in hostels, Pensionen and private rooms.
My general advice when walking in Germany (and aiming to keep costs down) is not to rely solely on booking.com, but also check local tourist information offices: they often have more (and cheaper) options – listings are usually available on their websites. When visiting them, I have found the local tourist information offices to be very friendly and helpfull.
I actually attempted to walk this Jakobsweg two years ago, but ended up doing nice walks near the river Rhine, watching the boats float by.. Now I tried again, as I had an urgent desire to follow shells.
Nijmegen is an interesting town but - as I have visited it many times before - I decided to start in Emmerich/Elten and join the Jakosbweg in Kleve (this stretchis actually also waymarked).
I walked app 120 km in the following stages: Emmerich/Elten – Kleve – Appeldorn (just behind Kalkar) – Vinjen (just before Xanten) - Rheinberg/Ossenberg – Orsoy – Moers – Krefeld, From there it is another 70 km to Koln (via Neuss and Dormagen), but I did not have enough time for this. Koln, of course though, is very much worth visiting.
The Jakobsweg more or less follows the course of the old Roman road (no traces of it are visible though). The city of Xanten may be particularly of interest for those interested in Roman history, as it hosts the Archaeological Park, one of the largest archaelogical open air museums in the world, built at the site of the Roman settlements Colonia Ulpia Traiana.
It was a pleasant walk. The landscape may not be spectacular, but I was mainly walking through forests and open lands, without any serious elevatons, and some little old towns with a nice laidback feel such Kalkar, Xanten, Rheinberg and Orsoy. The industrial Ruhr area is nearby, particularly once you have passed Rheinberg. For me it gave an interesting contrast of walking on quiet paths – but sometimes seeing chimneys and factories on the other ( east) side of the river Rhine.
As expected, there were no other pilgrims, at least I did not see them. I was invited in for a coffee by someone who was actually really pleased to see someone walking this Jakobsweg. He said there were more people walking in the past – I do not know if and why this is the case. However, this area of Germany is mostly very popular for cycling.
Waymarking
Waymarking is excellent. There is no shortage of stickers with a yellow shell on a blue blackground.
In addition, I used the German guide book – which is excellent on providing background information, but rather outdated on the practicalities (it is from 2009). https://www.amazon.nl/dp/3761621914/
Another Invaluable source of information (also providing GPS tracks) is of course: http://www.jakobswege-europa.de/wege/nordrhein.htm
Accomodation
Pilgrim infrastructure is virtually non-existing. Although there actually is a pilgrim Herberg (three beds) in Emmerich. http://jakobus-camino-emmerich.de/ (for some reason, it is not mentioned in any listings)
For the first time ever I completely pre-booked my accomocation. I stayed in hotels and Gasthofe in the 50-60 euro range (including breakfast). I noticed no significant increase in prices as compared to pre-covid times two years ago. It is possible to find cheaper accomodation, when staying in hostels, Pensionen and private rooms.
My general advice when walking in Germany (and aiming to keep costs down) is not to rely solely on booking.com, but also check local tourist information offices: they often have more (and cheaper) options – listings are usually available on their websites. When visiting them, I have found the local tourist information offices to be very friendly and helpfull.
