LIVE from the Camino Jakobsweg Rothenburg ob der Tauber nach Rottenburg am Neckar

[sugargypsy]

Like many members of this forum I had planned walking a Camino for this year. I was planning to do either the Inglés and/or Portugués in September/October 2020.

I've already mentally said goodbye to those plans. Even if travel restrictions might be loosened by then I won't walk, because having asthma, I (might) have a higher risk for severe illness from COVID-19 should I catch it. I will only start travelling again, as soon as a vaccine is available.

Because of this decision, I got problems to motivate myself to keep up walking regularly, doing my exercises. But, two days ago I had an idea which was actually triggered by a thread in this forum about the Jakobsweg in Germany. This in turn made me remember the fact that not far from my apartment (15-20 km) the Jakobsweg crosses .

I immediately ordered the guide for the route from Rothenburg ob der Tauber to Rottenburg am Neckar, which arrived today!



I’ve chosen 6 stages to start with which are just about 120 km of walking– one way. I'm not starting in Rothenburg o.T., that's too far away for daily walks, I'll start right in the middle of this Jakobsweg which is split into 12 stages, covering about 220 km. The first half of the stages I will walk whenever it will be possible again.

I will have to drive to the individual starting points - each day I’ll be walking - by car, because I currently avoid using public transport. The daily stages are going to be quite short too, because I will have to walk back every way, since the Camino is not a circular route. **

It certainly won't be a camino like the last one in May / June 2019; I won't be able to walk every day, probably only once or twice a week. I will only be able to walk short stages at the beginning, as my foot injury has almost healed, but not yet completely. I probably won't meet any other pilgrims.

But: I don’t care at all . I’m grateful that I’ve found a way to walk a spring camino. I’ll start walking Thursday or Friday next week. I'd like to share my experiences and photos which I will surely be taking, if this is not considered as rubbing salt into the wounds of those who cannot walk right now .



** Just as an information: Since the rules concerning activities outside ones appartement / house etc. are very different in european countries, Bundesländer/departements and counties, in my area walking alone or with one other person is so far allowed.

 

[Becky 59]

I take it you live in Germany! I for one would welcome seeing your photos . We are all walking virtual Caminos wherever we can these days, even if only in our back yards

 

[Delphinoula]

Hi glad you are getting out. I walked parts of it last year. If you look at my postings it may assist you. The markings can be different especially the sections that were taken care by the Alpenverein the shells point up to heavens. I walk same time last year. unless you drive back and forth like I did the hotels are all closed, but I see you already planned this. I walked from Kronach to Nürnberg to Rothenburg to Jagsthausen.
Take provisions with you there are no coffees where you need them. Bon Caminho.

 

[Mike Blackard]

Great idea. I had booked a cruise to Rotterdam leaving Ft Lauderdale, Florida on April 5th. 2 week cruise on Holland America- should have been in the Azores today, From Rotterdam we had also booked a 2 week tour of Eastern Europe starting in Prague on April 24th. And then we were going to rent a car in Nuremberg on May 13 and drive to Rothenburg on our way west to Trier, Bacharach, Koln, then train to Paris and fly back to US on May 20. So much for those best laid plans!

So that was all going to be with my wife. But then I was thinking it might be nice to go back to Spain for a third Camino Frances later on in summer or fall. I did my first Sept. 2018, 2nd Aug. 2019, finishing both in October. Third camino is also probably not going to happen (unless they get a vaccine this year).

In the meantime, I am reading the early drafts of a Forum Friend's (Terence Callery) work in progress about King Alfonso II in 800 AD making the first pilgrimage to the grave site of Saint James. "The First Pilgrim" has been very fun and interesting reading. Terry emails me a new chapter almost every day. It's a little different if you are a king with a growing entourage and a father confessor, and pack mules, and horses (Alfonso walked).

No albergues, but each town's mayor, or Monastery or church, or nobleman or rich person would arrange for lodging and meals. I might have to splurge next time (I'm 70 -don't I deserve it?) and skip the Donativos and Municipal 5 euro Albergues and menu de peregrino, and go for the private hotels, hostels, pensions, paradors, casa rural etc., I'm not rich, but you can't take it with you. But I have to admit, sharing communal meals, meeting pilgrims (mostly younger) from all over the world, and a couple of nights of mats on the floor, and most nights in bunk beds in dormitory rooms was really a great and fun experience, at times even spiritual.

 

[Delphinoula]

In case you not from Rothenburg.
Parking is quite expensive there. You could park outside the city ring, where a small shopping center is I remember a bakery. You kind of park in the inner court of it. Then cut across the town to the Church. If you have your pilgrim’ s pass the entry is free for you. Have a look at the famous altar on top and pray for us. Then you leave over that beautiful bridge.
The next stretch is a bit bleak and you need to take provisions. So until you get to knight of Berlichingens birth place. You can get a stamp at the gas station.

 

[mla1]

Hello sugargypsy -- I was supposed to start walking this jakobsweg yesterday. I had planned to start from Wurzburg and to walk via Rothenburg and Roggenburg to Strasbourg in France. Needless to say I am very disappointed to still be at home in my house in Canada! I will look forward to hearing about your walk. I am interested to know more what the landscape is like -- and how easy it is to get a coffee!

I hope to get a chance to do this route in the future. I have put the guidebooks on a shelf where I can see them every day!

Buen camino, einen guten Weg!

 

[Delphinoula]

Hi Mia when you start your Camino I can supply some hints having lived in Würzburg for many years. But I think Gypsy is walking a different route. If you walk along the Main it’s wine country south hills vineyards after vineyards.

 

[mla1]

Hi Delphinoula - That would be great! I have never been to that part of Germany. I will look for your earlier posts!

Gypsy is walking section of the longer route I had chosen.

Here is a link to the Rother guidebook: https://www.rother.de/rother%20wanderf%FChrer-jakobswege-4363.htm

The book has a number of options in the region. The route I wanted to follow takes 3 days from Wurzburg to Rothenburg, then 18 more days -- via Rottenburg and then the Kinzigtäler Jakobsweg to Strasbourg.

I also have the same little guidebook that Gypsy has. That section is about 9 days -- and it looks like it goes through some great little towns.

cheers,
ML

 

[Delphinoula]

Hi Mia great In case you have no friends in Würzburg the least expensive overnight possibility is the Jugendherberge right next to the former prison for females, now a youth center. It is remarkable because it is one of the view French Revolutionary architectures that where built there a two more in this City. In order to overnight there you need to be a member see here https://www.jugendherberge.de/mitgliedschaft/infos/
if you are male there are three and more working monasteries in the town area, they all have visitors quarters, but that is more meant for familiy members of the monks.
Here you may ask if they take pilgrims: E-Mail: karmelitinnenkloster@bistum-wuerzburg.de.
the city is worth a stop for the ancient vineries Bürgerspital or Juliusspital for the Residenz and the Käppele. for the antiquities in the pottery museum equal in rank with the Louvre and the Met. Or have a glass of wine in the oldest continues Zum Stachel exciting inn from 1413 of the town. Early up go to the Marktkafee that’s serving the market stalls since forever from 0500 in the Morning.
So you see plenty. Just sent me you possible stops and I see what I can come up with.

 

[Nekai]

Like many members of this forum I had planned walking a Camino for this year. I was planning to do either the Inglés and/or Portugués in September/October 2020.

I've already mentally said goodbye to those plans. Even if travel restrictions might be loosened by then I won't walk, because having asthma, I (might) have a higher risk for severe illness from COVID-19 should I catch it. I will only start travelling again, as soon as a vaccine is available.

Because of this decision, I got problems to motivate myself to keep up walking regularly, doing my exercises. But, two days ago I had an idea which was actually triggered by a thread in this forum about the Jakobsweg in Germany. This in turn made me remember the fact that not far from my apartment (15-20 km) the Jakobsweg crosses .

I immediately ordered the guide for the route from Rothenburg ob der Tauber to Rottenburg am Neckar, which arrived today!

View attachment 73000

I’ve chosen 6 stages to start with which are just about 120 km of walking– one way. I'm not starting in Rothenburg o.T., that's too far away for daily walks, I'll start right in the middle of this Jakobsweg which is split into 12 stages, covering about 220 km. The first half of the stages I will walk whenever it will be possible again.

I will have to drive to the individual starting points - each day I’ll be walking - by car, because I currently avoid using public transport. The daily stages are going to be quite short too, because I will have to walk back every way, since the Camino is not a circular route. **

It certainly won't be a camino like the last one in May / June 2019; I won't be able to walk every day, probably only once or twice a week. I will only be able to walk short stages at the beginning, as my foot injury has almost healed, but not yet completely. I probably won't meet any other pilgrims.

But: I don’t care at all . I’m grateful that I’ve found a way to walk a spring camino. I’ll start walking Thursday or Friday next week. I'd like to share my experiences and photos which I will surely be taking, if this is not considered as rubbing salt into the wounds of those who cannot walk right now .



** Just as an information: Since the rules concerning activities outside ones appartement / house etc. are very different in european countries, Bundesländer/departements and counties, in my area walking alone or with one other person is so far allowed.

Hallo, Sugargypsy@!
It's 3 years later so I'm not sure you will see this message, but I'm American, living in California, about to go visit many friends in Germany and France (where I used to live) in July-August.
For years I have thought about the Camino, but am now in training to do it in 2024. But I'll be staying nearly in Rottenburg am Neckar, and want to spend a week or so trying it out. So many options from there, and as a newbie, I need information about places to stay along the way which aren't available online, from what I've seen, and so much more. Also, a silly question, but I know nothing! Does the guidebook work if you start at the opposite end and walk toward Rothenburg?
I'll see if the book you show is available in the US (or have it sent to my friend in Germany) but do you know of others that describe the other stretches from Rottenburg, towards Bodensee, or Freiburg?
Anything you can tell me about where to find information like that would be wonderfully helpful.
I am fluent in German so it can be either in English or German.
Thank you!
Nekai

 

[MinaKamina]

Hallo, Sugargypsy@!
It's 3 years later so I'm not sure you will see this message, but I'm American, living in California, about to go visit many friends in Germany and France (where I used to live) in July-August.
For years I have thought about the Camino, but am now in training to do it in 2024. But I'll be staying nearly in Rottenburg am Neckar, and want to spend a week or so trying it out. So many options from there, and as a newbie, I need information about places to stay along the way which aren't available online, from what I've seen, and so much more. Also, a silly question, but I know nothing! Does the guidebook work if you start at the opposite end and walk toward Rothenburg?
I'll see if the book you show is available in the US (or have it sent to my friend in Germany) but do you know of others that describe the other stretches from Rottenburg, towards Bodensee, or Freiburg?
Anything you can tell me about where to find information like that would be wonderfully helpful.
I am fluent in German so it can be either in English or German.
Thank you!
Nekai

Hi Nekai,

No need to go back, there are other options. For instance:

From Rothenburg am Neckar you can continue southwards to Thann in the Elzass region

https://www.jakobswege-nach-burgund.de/wege/rottenburg-thann.htm

From Thann on you can continue to Cluny or Vezelay (France)

https://www.jakobswege-nach-burgund.de/wege/thann-cluny-vezelay.htm