pat.holland
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- C F 2007-10, Le Puy St. Jean 2011-13, C P 2015 Via F 2016-7
We are just back home from the Camino Frances and the following information may be useful
Firstly numbers: we had expected lots of walkers. However we started this year's atape in Ponferrada and from there to Sarria we met even less walkers than last year. Some nationalities seemed to be missing completely, no south Koreans for example. However all that changed at Sarria as lots of Spanish pilgrims joined and the following morning the track out was crowded with families, groups etc. All very nice people, dont get me wrong and we had some great talks with them but the feeling on the Camino had changed. A few days later they had spaced themselves out along the route and the feeling of being crowded had gone.
There seemed to be a pulse of spanish walkers all trying to get to S de C for Easter Sunday on their four or five days off (some doing very long days) and this meant that albergue space was very hard to get. A sports hall had to be opened in Palace de Rei. We bypassed Portomarin as it looked crowded and got into the small municipal hostel at Gonzar in the early afternoon. From about 4.30 - 6 pm, sitting in the bar there we counted enough pilgrims to fill the hostel twice over being turned away from it. The cyclists went on resignedly while many foot pilgrims got taxis back or forward to find beds elsewhere.
Therefore I would think that there might not be a problem with numbers on the early parts of the C but from Sarria onwards but it might be necessary to book ahead or go upmarket. We had to book into the Casa Benilde hotel in Palas de Rei (very friendly and helpful people, who booked our next stop also. We booked a casa rurale, Casa Vaamonde, which is about 2 k from the bridge alberge at Ribadiso. The farmer came and collected us and dropped us off in the morning and we had a good meal and very hospitable welcome. I recommend the place for those wanting a bit of comfort, phone 981 50 03 64 casavaamonde@terra.es. They speak French or Spanish.
I think that it would still be very possilble to do the whole Camino this year but high season for local pilgrims (holiday times) will mean booking ahead towards the end.
Weather: we were very surprised to find snow underfoot at O Cebreiro and the route along the hill immedialty after could get 'interesting' had a blizzard or rain storm come up. We had rain every day except our first and last and it certainly felt like home (Ireland) in Galacia. I regrettedour decision to leave the ponchos at home and we used our rain gear a lot. All th erain means that the paths are very mucky and gaiters would be very useful. The squadrons of horse pilgrims dont help the paths.
The alberge around the church at Cacabelos was closed when we went past just before Easter. and the one at Paloma y Lena San Mamed just before SArria seems to be being worked on at present.
We had a great time and met some great people and look forward to our next camino stint. WE took a bus to Finisterra and found it seemd to be a much more definite end to our Camino than the Cathedral.
with best wishes to all pilgrims
Pat and Ellen
Firstly numbers: we had expected lots of walkers. However we started this year's atape in Ponferrada and from there to Sarria we met even less walkers than last year. Some nationalities seemed to be missing completely, no south Koreans for example. However all that changed at Sarria as lots of Spanish pilgrims joined and the following morning the track out was crowded with families, groups etc. All very nice people, dont get me wrong and we had some great talks with them but the feeling on the Camino had changed. A few days later they had spaced themselves out along the route and the feeling of being crowded had gone.
There seemed to be a pulse of spanish walkers all trying to get to S de C for Easter Sunday on their four or five days off (some doing very long days) and this meant that albergue space was very hard to get. A sports hall had to be opened in Palace de Rei. We bypassed Portomarin as it looked crowded and got into the small municipal hostel at Gonzar in the early afternoon. From about 4.30 - 6 pm, sitting in the bar there we counted enough pilgrims to fill the hostel twice over being turned away from it. The cyclists went on resignedly while many foot pilgrims got taxis back or forward to find beds elsewhere.
Therefore I would think that there might not be a problem with numbers on the early parts of the C but from Sarria onwards but it might be necessary to book ahead or go upmarket. We had to book into the Casa Benilde hotel in Palas de Rei (very friendly and helpful people, who booked our next stop also. We booked a casa rurale, Casa Vaamonde, which is about 2 k from the bridge alberge at Ribadiso. The farmer came and collected us and dropped us off in the morning and we had a good meal and very hospitable welcome. I recommend the place for those wanting a bit of comfort, phone 981 50 03 64 casavaamonde@terra.es. They speak French or Spanish.
I think that it would still be very possilble to do the whole Camino this year but high season for local pilgrims (holiday times) will mean booking ahead towards the end.
Weather: we were very surprised to find snow underfoot at O Cebreiro and the route along the hill immedialty after could get 'interesting' had a blizzard or rain storm come up. We had rain every day except our first and last and it certainly felt like home (Ireland) in Galacia. I regrettedour decision to leave the ponchos at home and we used our rain gear a lot. All th erain means that the paths are very mucky and gaiters would be very useful. The squadrons of horse pilgrims dont help the paths.
The alberge around the church at Cacabelos was closed when we went past just before Easter. and the one at Paloma y Lena San Mamed just before SArria seems to be being worked on at present.
We had a great time and met some great people and look forward to our next camino stint. WE took a bus to Finisterra and found it seemd to be a much more definite end to our Camino than the Cathedral.
with best wishes to all pilgrims
Pat and Ellen