LIVE from the Camino Kanga hopping

[Kanga]

We arrived in Irun yesterday afternoon with the intention of staying overnight. But, after a deeply indulgent stay in Dubai to break the long plane trip, and a beautiful hostal in Madrid, we were looking for some action. The weather was perfect so we couldn't resist the lure of the trail. We set off about 3pm and made it to Pasajes just as it was getting dark. As usual we dallied far too long at the one and only bar on the way. The albergue is full but we have pitched our tent out the front - so YES it works! Having lumped it all the way (and having a 9 kilo pack instead of my usual 6 or 7) I am so relieved it has proved itself already. But next time we're definitely pitching it in daylight..... Do Not Pitch Tent for the first time with only the benefit of an iPhone light...
One of the idiosyncratic things about the albergue here is the bell that peels, very loudly, on the hour, every hour. Still did not keep us awake - yesterday's "alpista" route was every bit as challenging as people say. But so, so beautiful.

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, Kanga -- are you keeping a blog? If not, hope you find the time to check in here from time to time. I'm impressed that your tent-ing it. Enjoy!

 

[VNwalking]

Great to read that you're on the road at last, and already in the midst of adventure! Buen Camino, Kanga!!

 

[norelle]

buen camino Kanga!

 

[OzAnnie]

Buen Camino Kanga.
Nice spot isn't it. You made great time starting at 3pm from Irun.
Lovely weather today

 

[natefaith]

Buen Camino, Kanga! If you walk super fast, maybe you'll run into Nate, who's taking it slowly!
Take care and have a great time,
Faith

 

[wayfarer]

Buen Camino Kanga, enjoy every step.

 

[naplesdon]

I think I can see my apartment off in the distance in that picture. Ongi Etorri!

 

[susanawee]

We arrived in Irun yesterday afternoon with the intention of staying overnight. But, after a deeply indulgent stay in Dubai to break the long plane trip, and a beautiful hostal in Madrid, we were looking for some action. The weather was perfect so we couldn't resist the lure of the trail. We set off about 3pm and made it to Pasajes just as it was getting dark. As usual we dallied far too long at the one and only bar on the way. The albergue is full but we have pitched our tent out the front - so YES it works! Having lumped it all the way (and having a 9 kilo pack instead of my usual 6 or 7) I am so relieved it has proved itself already. But next time we're definitely pitching it in daylight..... Do Not Pitch Tent for the first time with only the benefit of an iPhone light...
One of the idiosyncratic things about the albergue here is the bell that peels, very loudly, on the hour, every hour. Still did not keep us awake - yesterday's "alpista" route was every bit as challenging as people say. But so, so beautiful. View attachment 18354

Buen Camino Kanga...safe travels, lots of amazing experiences and keep sharing with us....

 

[JohnMcM]

Buen Camino Kanga. Love the idea of camping it.

 

[Al the optimist]

Lovely pic. Enjoy the walk.

 

[Kanga]

We thought Pasajes was lovely. Could not resist a double serving of café con leche y tostada at the bread shop. After last night's late night "snack" of deep fried fresh prawns and bacalao croquettes serious danger lurks that we might be adding kilos instead of taking them off. I maintained my dignity and did not fall into the sea clambering on the ferry. Enjoyed the short walk to San Sebastian where we are staying tonight.

 

[wayfarer]

San Sebastian is beautiful, enjoy your stay.

 

[Carol06]

I can't wait to read more. Please continue to keep us posted.

 

[m00nman]

Made this journey two years ago with my wife and kids as far as Gernika. We will pick up the Camino del Norte again from there in July while visiting family in Zarautz!
Your walk over the next couple of days will be fantastic, I really hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

Bide On!!!

 

[Kanga]

Day 3 was beautiful - and we finished up in a real camp ground just before Zarautz - before dark. Definite improvement on night time tent adventures. Being Sunday we treated ourselves to the best menu del dia. Whitebait and ribs and some other fish - lots of butter and garlic. Delicious. And then there was dessert... We needed a treat as our bodies were feeling some pain. Sidra may become my favourite narcotic.
Day 4 has been an easy flat walk into Getaria where we are having a little second breakfast.

 

[Al the optimist]

Ah! Sidra! Mi Gusta!

 

[angeliki louk]

Buen Camino!!!!!!!! Smiling with your posts keep us informed!!!!! One month left for me to be there!!!!!!

 

[Kanga]

So, we inch along. Staying tonight at a rather lovely "agri tourism" casa just after Zumaia. According to the guide book we've only done about 12 km today. What slackers. Our excuse is Knees. They are actually fine but, as Pooh says, you can never be too careful. We did not want to push on to Deba which is another 12 kms.

 

[mikevasey]

Hope you enjoy the next days walk which ever way you go, the 10-12km's via the PR coastal route are amongst the hardest I have breathlessly walked and admired at the same time.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Reading your posts is so much fun, rembering why walk throught that area last fall. Isn't it just gorgeous?

 

[ranthr]

Buen camino, Kanga. See on El tiempo that you will have nice and warm weather. Two years ago it was wind and rain most days. Enjoy the sights. I am impressed by your campinglife!

 

[Kanga]

Absolutely lovely day - perfect for walking. But, not to get things out of perspective, coffee at the first bar ...

 

[Kanga]

Starting to meet a few other pilgs which is always one of the joys of being on the road - from so many different places. Enjoyed albergue breakfast with people from Finland, Austria, Italy, Germany and Spain.

 

[Al the optimist]

Is this Mr Kanga? Money on table so not windy then.

 

[mikevasey]

You might have tried it already but the local white wine is Txakoli ( Chacoli), great with sea food.

 

[nc6000]

I'll be following this thread with interest as I'm walking from Irun to Santander in early June.

 

[ebrandt]

Oh...the cafe con leche pic looks so wonderful! I am holding on to it and picturing myself and Tom sitting in Oviedo in less than 30 days! Ultreia!

 

[peregrina2000]

Sidra may become my favourite narcotic.

I´m always impressed when I hear that someone who didn´t grow up with sidra actually LIKES it.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/so-tell-me-do-you-like-sidra.20186/#post-165277

So glad you are having good weather and good luck with the accommodations. As you already know, there´s a group here that always enjoys hearing from you, so keep in touch!! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[epona2011]

Walked this in 2013-fair play to you Kanga and Mr Kanga for making it from Irun to Pasajes before dark-and carrying a tent! Will be tuning in regularly to see how you are getting on.
PS sampled the sidra and the wine and recommend both.

 

[Kanga]

Yes, @Al the optimist that is my long suffering mate. But he brightened up immediately when I told him @mikevasey 's suggestion we try the local wine.
Tonight we are staying at an albergue about 4 km past Deba. We aren't allowed to put up the tent because it is in a national park (even in the albergue grounds) - but we've been offered a bed in a garage as an alternative to bunks in a dorm. All part of the rich tapestry.

 

[Al the optimist]

Would the antipodean equivalent of long suffering mate be a long suffering cobber? mmm... Think this prompts a new thread about English linguistics. Buen Caminos both and tell him he has my permission to have an extra vino on my behalf.

 

[Kanga]

This is the view from the Santa Klara Agri-touristic albergue - just after Zumeria.

 

[norelle]

Beautiful! I guess I'll need to put the Norte on my 'to do' list!

buen camino

 

[SYates]

Damm! Now you do have me convinced that I want to do the Norte one day ... SY *the Frances addict*

 

[NualaOC]

Kanga, the local tourist office should pay you commission! Your photos are fantastic. I had 'parked' my Norte 2016 plan in favour of del Salvador /Primitivo, but now I'm not so sure

 

[mikevasey]

Hi Kanga enjoying your posts, I am vicariously experiencing the Norte through them so hope you don't mind me throwing little suggestions in now and then. The walk to Markina is quite beautiful probably my favourite bit of the Norte, whole stretches on forest paths and the church at the entrance to Markina has this amazing rock/ stone inside of it.

 

[Kanga]

@mikevasey your suggestions are always welcome, especially by my husband when they involve wine - although he would be even more enthusiastic if combined with hiring a motorbike!

 

[OTH86]

Buen Camino, Kanga and Mr! What a great thread - a continuous Camino instead of separate postings.
Terry

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Yes, @Al the optimist that is my long suffering mate. But he brightened up immediately when I told him @mikevasey 's suggestion we try the local wine.
.

Kanga, do try the Txacoli, the local sparkling wine. You must have passed one of the vinayards that makes it yesterday as you went from Santa Klara towards Deba.

 

[Kanga]

A very beautiful but long walk to Markina this morning, with one particularly challenging ascent - my husband says to more than 900 metres. And what goes up, must come down. My ankles and knees were complaining a bit. Am thinking those blow up sleeping mats would work quite nicely as toboggans.

 

[Kanga]

We'll go looking for the church @mikevasey - we've just been picked up and taken to an albergue that is just off the route.

 

[mikevasey]

Get some good ropes on them and maybe with a good wind you could paraglide.

Sleeping mats that is not historic churches.

 

[ebrandt]

@mikevasey your suggestions are always welcome, especially by my husband when they involve wine - although he would be even more enthusiastic if combined with hiring a motorbike!

LOL! I have this extended plan for our future walks and my husband keeps suggesting that we could cycle..... He too can be convinced to walk for wine! Ultreia

 

[Kanga]

We arrived in Markina a bit too late for lunch so, against my better judgement had a "pilgrim menu" for dinner. Not very good food but we were so hungry we ate far too much. And the company of other pilgrims was great - some Luxemburgers with good wit and humour.
Here's today's albergue, view from same, and the garden. We are in our own room again so no camping. Rain forecast tomorrow - the tent may stay in the pack of it is wet (my promise to Ian)

 

[Kanga]

Having trouble uploading photos - and don't want to slow the thread. Will put them up later.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Having trouble uploading photos - and don't want to slow the thread. Will put them up later.

The blue house on the other side of the road, with an albergue and pension? Stayed there last fall and loved it. Just brace yourself tomorrow when you trek down the hill past the monastery. You will be putting you walking poles to very good use.

 

[nc6000]

How is the weather so far? It looks a bit grey in your pictures. I'm having second thoughts about wearing my trail running shoes and thinking of getting a pair of waterproof walking shoes instead.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Kanga, how is the Scrubba washing bag working out?

 

[Kanga]

@nc6000 we are both still in sandals - absolutely delighted with them. Waded through mud and slush and just wash off at the next fountain. Rained today but the gear was good - Altus poncho plus sandals - works for us.
@Anemone del Camino the Scrubba is getting used daily.

 

[Kanga]

Made it to Guernica today. Lovely walk in company of new friends. Rained quite hard at one stage and I was very glad of my gloves when it got cold. It is always a thrill to realise that weather is just weather - and how easy are our lives with good clothes to protect us. We are blessed.

 

[VNwalking]

Kanga, it's a delight to catch up on your journey...thanks!

 

[bryans]

We have enjoyed your blog and photos. We are walking from Irun on Wednesday 20th May going as far as Bilbao. Looking forward to it especially now having seen how lovely it is.

 

[Kanga]

Rain, mud, rain, fog, mud and more rain. But we made it to Lazamo, just before Bilbao. Filthy, drenched and cold, there is nothing, nothing, quite so wonderful a gift to humankind as a hot shower! Up on the mountain the logging trucks had made such a mess of the trail it was a bit like skiing. I abandoned all thought of avoiding mud and just ploughed through. Sealskinz waterproof socks and sandals kept my feet happy but Paris fashion it is not. This photo was on a bit of road - on the trail I was too busy concentrating on keeping upright.

 

[ebrandt]

Well I hope that as I am writing, you are warm and drying out. I am picturing you sipping your vino tinto with a lovely meal in a warm place!

 

[naplesdon]

not to mention the high winds!

 

[VNwalking]

Ah, the joys of the Camino!
Hope you're happily enjoying something tonight that balances out the mud and wet of the day!
Thanks for the pic and all good Wishes, Kanga...

 

[NualaOC]

@Anemone del Camino[/USER] the Scrubba is getting used daily.

I was wondering about this too! I thought it was a great idea when you posted about it a while ago.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Sealskinz waterproof socks and sandals kept my feet happy but Paris fashion it is not. This photo was on a bit of road - on the trail I was too busy concentrating on keeping upright. View attachment 18534

How are these made? I much prefer walking barefoot in sandals, but these days I need to wear orthodics, so shoes it is and I am developping a Camino sock fettish ;0)

 

[Kanga]

The tent is at the bottom of the pack at present - weather is altogether too unfriendly. Although I did have a moment on the trail when I thought "well, if I do slip and break a leg, at least we can put the tent over me while Ian gets help". The mind goes to some weird places on a day like today. I was remembering those por souls who survived the Andes plane crash all those years ago, and how different would have been the outcome if they had had GPS and offline maps. They would have seen they were only a couple of kilometres from a fully stocked ski lodge.

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Kanga -
Everything sounds wonderful on your Camino, despite the challenge of the weather on some of the days. I hope that all continues to go well for you both. How are your ASICS holding up and are you loving those fantastic new poles? Did you pack 'One Luxury Item' and if so, what was it?
Buen Camino!
Cheers - Jenny

 

[Kanga]

@JennyH94 I'm in Ecco sandals and loving them. When it is really wet and cold I don Sealskinz socks with the sandals. No blisters. Will do a gear review later.

 

[JennyH94]

@JennyH94 I'm in Ecco sandals and loving them. When it is really wet and cold I don Sealskinz socks with the sandals. No blisters. Will do a gear review later.

Hi Kanga - I love the Eccos too - they're a fabulous sandal. What a great idea to wear the Sealskinz socks with them and it's terrific to hear that you're blister-free. I look forward to reading your gear review.
'Hoping that you're both having a wonderful Camino -
Cheers - Jenny

 

[newfydog]

Great thread Kanga!

We are finally on the way from
Vezelay

Keep up the posts and pictures!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Awesome thread Kanga! I'm enjoying it very much!
I hope for some nice dry weather for you soon!
Take care of those wee knees!

 

[Kanga]

We started today's walk in light cold rain with an easy 11 km walk to Playa de Arena and Pobeño. Along the way Ian had a conversation with a horse -

 

[Kanga]

We then stopped for cafe con leche and pinchos of goats cheese, tomatoes and croquettes. The afternoon turned into a glorious sunny walk along spectacular coastal cliffs to Castro Urdiales. Arrived after a very satisfactory 33 km day. Ankles and feet enjoyed an icy bath tonight, and we both drank rather a lot of red wine. View of the cliff walk

 

[dougfitz]

We then stopped for cafe con leche and pinchos of goats cheese, tomatoes and croquettes. The afternoon turned into a glorious sunny walk along spectacular coastal cliffs to Castro Urdiales. Arrived after a very satisfactory 33 km day. Ankles and feet enjoyed an icy bath tonight, and we both drank rather a lot of red wine. View of the cliff walk

I can see the road is nice and level, and has a nice tunnel at the end - what is the path like?

 

[JennyH94]

We then stopped for cafe con leche and pinchos of goats cheese, tomatoes and croquettes. The afternoon turned into a glorious sunny walk along spectacular coastal cliffs to Castro Urdiales. Arrived after a very satisfactory 33 km day. Ankles and feet enjoyed an icy bath tonight, and we both drank rather a lot of red wine. View of the cliff walk

Kanga - my mouth is watering! Your lunch sounded fantastic!
Enjoy every moment and I wish you both joy in every step you take -
Cheers - Jenny

 

[VNwalking]

Ahhhh...better weather! I'm happy for you.....

 

[Kanga]

@dougfitz its a bitumen path, hard on the feet.

 

[Kanga]

I was so hungry last night I succumbed to the "Pilgrim Menu" and it was not good. Better to eat tapas at night or eat late, with the locals. We have a room last night but as the weather is better tonight we are heading for a campsite. I've also found a better list of campsites (none of my guides are geared towards camping) so hopefully the tent might get some use. Sleeping in the grounds of the albergues is still on the list but does not often seem easy.

 

[mikevasey]

Santillana Del Mar( (4 or 5 days) has a nice campsite at the far end of town, the camino on leaving passes right next to it, maybe huts there as well for pilgrims if you ask. La Isla might let you pitch, Soto de Luina, Cadevedeo and Sobrado dox Monxes will let you.

The restaurants in Llanes near the bridge in town compete against each other, this is a very good place to look around when you are not hungry and weigh everything up.

 

[Al the optimist]

Castro Urdiales.

Love that place! I have friends who live in Bilbao and we have driven there for many an enjoyable day, pinchos and lunch

 

[Kanga]

Who would not take a photo of this?

 

[Kanga]

Started the day with a wrong turn which, of course, necessitated an extra Bar stop to get directions. Bit of hard road walking, then a lovely soft grass coastal path into Islares where we've stopped for lunch. Most beautiful church so far, without doubt, is Santa Maria in Castro-Urdiales. Sadly not open when we passed.

 

[peregrina2000]

Started the day with a wrong turn which, of course, necessitated an extra Bar stop to get directions. Bit of hard road walking, then a lovely soft grass coastal path into Islares where we've stopped for lunch. Most beautiful church so far, without doubt, is Santa Maria in Castro-Urdiales. Sadly not open when we passed. View attachment 18610

Kanga, that restaurant in the hotel in Islares was one of my best Norte meals. People came from far away to eat there and it was a terrific Sunday menu del dia lunch. Even my sweet-toothed companion did not have room for dessert! All fish based and fresh. Enjoying your trip vicariously, buen camino, Laurie

 

[Kanga]

@peregrina2000 Oh Laurie, I wish I'd known. We had a snack at the cafe next to the camping ground. If anyone has tips for Laredo let me know now, before we get there!
I keep looking at Ivar's app but haven't found any reviews yet

 

[Kanga]

In the tent at Laredo, in a camping ground. It's raining. Dry so far....

 

[Kanga]

After surviving torrential rain and thunder in the tent, we made it a short day to Noja. The climb up and over the headland between Playa La Barria and Playa Trengandin was, for me, very difficult. It is not a long section but surprisingly steep and slippery, with very sharp rocks. One slip and I could imagine bones shattering. The guide book does not make anything of it but older or less athletic pilgrims take heed!
We are treating ourselves to an overnight stay in Hotel Las Olas with a wonderful view of the beach. Lunch, with a fellow pilgrim, was superb.

 

[VNwalking]

What a journey, Kanga! A tent in the rain is not so much fun--or rather it's getting out and packing in the rain that's a drag. So I'm very glad you're more comfortable tonight after that climb!

 

[Kanga]

@Viranani hotel bathrooms work well for drying tents (actually only the fly). It is really a good tent; not the lightest but a very practical choice. Easy to put up, sturdy and comfortable. No condensation inside - it has a netting inner tent with a fly over the top. We particularly like the double access so Ian and I don't have to climb over each other to get out. Our sleeping mats and bags are also proving very good. My only complaint is that the tent is on the ground (oh, ze knees) and the rain. But that's the Camino; and you can't have glorious emerald green fields without rain.

 

[Kanga]

Coming down the hill into Noja

 

[mspath]

Great photo Kanga! Your posts are so enjoyable also. Glad your tent is a dual entry to ease the ins and outs. Keep on hopping!

MM

 

[VNwalking]

Great photo, Kanga, and good thing for poles; it looks steep as can be--the people on the beach look like ants!
That's a funny image, of the tarp in the loo, but dry is good.
Hope you both have a good rest and a good walk tomorrow...thanks for keeping the posts up, loving the vicarious Norte!

 

[angeliki louk]

Coming down the hill into Noja View attachment 18644

Can't wait to be there in a month!!!!! Thank you for sharing!!!!buen Camino!!!

 

[camino07]

Coming down the hill into Noja View attachment 18644

That photo,Kanga brings back memories!
I remember that scarey path from last year. Luckily my taller,stronger buddy gave me a hand on some deep steps. I was happy to get to the beach!
Most of the others went by the road. Enjoying following you.

 

[newfydog]

I love the sound of rain on a good tent. Not so great for sleeping though but a great sound anyway! Hope your trails dry out!

 

[Al the optimist]

Lovely pic again, thanks. Is it OK if I have a twinge of envy?

 

[smj6]

Beautiful! I guess I'll need to put the Norte on my 'to do' list!
buen camino

I agree, and I've not yet done the Frances!!
Buen Camino, Kanga. I'm enjoying your postings as well.
Suzanne

 

[grayland]

Last year, in late August, that beach on the other side was a nudist beach and pretty crowded. We Pilgrims with boots and packs made a strange contrast.

It was hot and dry but the climb up and back down was a challenge.

The guide book said very little...just.. "Climb the hill"

 

[volleyjanice]

Fantastic posts Kanga, but then again I'm a sucker for a scenic photo and a vivid description of tasty food and beverages!

 

[jayree]

After surviving torrential rain and thunder in the tent, we made it a short day to Noja. The climb up and over the headland between Playa La Barria and Playa Trengandin was, for me, very difficult. It is not a long section but surprisingly steep and slippery, with very sharp rocks. One slip and I could imagine bones shattering. The guide book does not make anything of it but older or less athletic pilgrims take heed!

I remember this section well. It had rained the day before and the muddy trail was extremely slippery, downright treacherous. As we were coming down toward Playa de Noja we saw an older French man with running shoes and no walking pole struggling up the hill you show in your picture (walking west to east). We warned him that he should turn around because the downward slope on the other side, which we had just climbed, was even worse. He said thank you but kept going. Later at the beach a German came down the hill, put his pack on the beach and said "we have got to help that man up there, he is in real trouble." Two young strong Germans went up and rescued him. We then learned his name was Daniel and that he had walked from Monaco to SdC and was now walking back to Paris. He appeared to be at least 70. He ultimately decided to detour to bypass this part of the trail.

 

[domigee]

Really enjoying this thread too Kanga, I wish you good weather and buen camino

 

[Saint Mike II]

Who would not take a photo of this? View attachment 18609

WOW - now I am impressed. Its a part of Spain that is often overlooked. It might have to go on the bucket list. Buen Camino. Mike

 

[Kanga]

We had a two night stop at Santander, meeting some friends who have been walking in France. Most amazing collection of "I want, I want, I want" shoe shops! A good thing my pack is already too heavy as I would otherwise be channelling Emelda Marcos. Today we walked to Santillana del Mar; a bit industrial on the way but the village itself is an absolute gem.

 

[Kanga]

And love the cheese we bought from the farm on the way into Santillana - makes a great meal with bread and a gin (slightly flavoured with tonic)

 

[Kanga]

Spent the night in the tent in the camping ground on the way out of Santillana del Mar - it also has cabins for pilgrims at €10 per person, four to a room in bunks, with own bathroom. The auspices looked good for camping, lovely sunny day, warm night, soft grass, good bathrooms very close. If not now, when? Said Ian, who has been carrying the tent. After a very, very good meal and far too much red wine, we put up the tent. Pretty much. That we had not tightened the fly (red wine factor at play) didn't matter as it was going to be a dry, windless night. Ahem. Until about 2am when a cold wind came in under the loose fly and the heavens opened up. But by morning the rain had stopped and we had stayed dry, if a bit cold. Fasten fly next time....
A good breakfast and a jount around this amazingly beautiful place put all to rights. The cloisters are glorious. Sadly the church was not open. The rest of the day was a lovely walk to Cóbreces and a luxury private room tonight!

Just added this edit - another thread has recounted bedbugs in the Santillana del Mar Albergue/cabins. Did not trouble is in the tent but take precautions I suggest.

 

[Kanga]

A lovely walk from Cóbreces to Comillas. Sun mainly out but not too hot, pretty green lanes and quiet country roads. Beautiful countryside.

 

[Kanga]

And some pretty villages