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Last Bed in the Albergue

BiggBlue

Robin
Time of past OR future Camino
17 Frances 18 Portuguese,
19 Primitivo 22 Norte
As I am setting off tomorrow to finish my original journey begun last September, I was talking with a friend (who always stays in very comfortable hotels) about the albergues. I explained the various benefits as well as the occasional downside when the showers don't have any hot water, - or water for that matter. He said it must be awful when you arrive and they are full. After considering this I said, "not always". Though this posting is light-hearted and not to be taken too seriously there were I felt two potentially worse scenarios, both of which I encountered.

1. You arrive with a fellow pilgrim at the albergue, very tired after a long day and dreaming of lying down, a cold beer a shower and some food. When asking "do you have any beds"? they reply "Yes, we have one left". In that situation, I immediately told the woman I had been walking with that she must take it. Which in truth I was fine with, had she not said: "Are you sure"? Which for a moment allowed me to entertain thoughts of entering into a discussion regards my age, bad knee and my having serious second thoughts, but it was never going to be a problem I felt much better at her having the certainty of a bed. Fortunately a second newly opened and not yet in the guidebook albergue was nearby that quickly filled up with the overspill.

2. You arrive to be told, "there is one bed left". You are delighted, but your joy is short lived when you realize, this is the bed that no one else wanted. I had it once,- by the door - near the shower - top bunk - with the street light lighting up my pillow, it is at such times that silicon ear plugs and silk sleep masks prove their worth in spades.

I am sure at this time of year I am unlikely to encounter albergues being full if I arrive at a half sensible hour.
 
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Things just soft of work out one way or the other, but it's generally ok.

We didn't run into too many full albergues, but we did a couple times. Once was in Carrion de los Condes - fortunate because it is a nice-sized place with plenty of options. We ran into some friends while looking for the next albergue - we hadn't seen them in a while, so that was nice. They had heard of a small hotel with good rates - we got directions and off we went. We got a private room for not much more than 2 beds in a private albergue would cost, the people at the hotel did our laundry for a pittance, and they packed us some snacks for the walk the next day since it is a long stretch. So the next day we headed off after a beautiful sleep, with packs full of clean clothes and snacks. It's wonderful when you find yourself so well cared for.
 
A true story. Several years ago I fell in with three young women pilgrims from Germany just outside of Leon. Their first Camino, my third, they were still uncertain and unsure about many things not happy to be alone butwe walked over several days sometimes together sometimes just meeting for lunch or in the evening at the same albergue. We enjoyed many hours together talking and exchanging experiences, I liked their exurberence they were happy to have one such as I of such advanced years as security. We arrived in Cacabelos to find the albergue not full but shut down for renovation. Back across the bridge to find rooms in one of the many little places we had seen but since the albergue was closed almost all were full. Luckily we did find a place h-o-w-e-v-e-r there were only two double beds...ah...what now? "I can spread my sleeping bag on the floor no problem", chivalrously I said. All of them, in harmony, replied "No No you can sleep with me". And so it was, they, being German pulled out their pajamas, I chose my most presentable unmentionables and we slept like logs until morning. Funny things happen on the Camino!
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Knowing beds were limited in Najera, we had made reservations at one of the albergues there, (the name escapes me now) and when we got there, there were about 6 pilgrims with nowhere to sleep after a particularly long day, about 32kms. The hospitalero at our albergue even called the albergues in the next town which was about 5kms away, and there were no beds there either. So, what did they do?? The called the major of Najera who opened up the community centre so the pilgrims could sleep on the mats there!! Like they always say....the camino provides.

Buen Camino
 
In 2014 my 2 friends and I were planning to stay at the albergue in Villatuerta. When we got there, we noted a definite coolness on the part the the hospitalera who said she would have to open the second floor. Another family group of 4 Americans were told that it was much nicer in Estella- more to see and do, more places to eat etc. She was definitely not wanting more pilgrims. We all decided to take instead to catch taxis
for the 3.5 km to Estella.
 
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I do recall the last week before entering SDC in 2004, a holy year. We were walking to arrive at SDC just in time for the massive festivities that take place on the feast day, the Sunday. So we were walking with half of Spain (or that is how it felt). A moving fiesta, a tidal wave of pilgrims, an avalanche of walkers. Five days out there was no room at the inn, for most of us. The army arrived. Young men in uniforms set up huge tents, with wooden floors, and after we had all flung our packs on the floor to reserve our spots, we lined up at the catering vans dispensing food from massive vats. The next couple of days saw us either in tents or on the floors of school gymnasiums - with hundreds of us sharing very few bathroom facilities. Showering was definitely optional. It was wonderful to arrive at the enormous barracks albergue (all open and operating) at Monte de Gozo.

It was the greatest fun. I loved it.
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
I walked the Frances April/May 2017 with my two sons and daughter in law. We noticed albergues were getting busy along the way, but had yet to reserve ahead. I had told them I wanted to stay in Monjardin as I had enjoyed my experience there in 2015 at the Dutch run albergue and thought my "boys" would enjoy walking up to the castle ruins on the hill after dinner. It was a rather hot day and I am a slow walker, so we were hoping to arrive early enough to get beds. By about 2:30pm we were getting a little nervous and picked up our speed a little. During this time, one, two, three people eventually passed us up a mile or two before our arrival. My son joked that they were going to get three of the four beds we needed....Sure enough, upon our arrival there was only one bed left! The other two places in town were filled up, too. Luckily a new albergue had recently opened in nearby Luquin, located on the alternate route and we were directed there. We had the whole wonderful place to ourselves!
 
We arrived in Los Arcos, and found beds hard to get. In the end we stayed in an albergue on foam mattresses on the floor of their attic, as we didn't want to walk to the next town. You had to crouch the whole time as there wasn't standing room. We were told they were the last beds in town.
There were about 12-15 mattresses. Over the next few hours a few people turned up, a group of women, and some young guys. However the remaining mattresses, which were apparently precooked were never claimed and remained empty all night.
I felt sorry for the pilgrims who missed out and had to walk on as these beds went unused. I don't know if this happens much or not. Whenever I pre-booked I was told to be there by 2pm or phone them to confirm, I presume to give the bed to someone else if I changed my mind.
 
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