Late fall weather on El Camino

[smallcat]

I've just completed the Le Puy Route to St Jean Pied-de-Port and then went on to Logrono. However, I had to break my trip and will return to complete my journey in late October. I'll be walking most of the last 26 days alone (I will have a companion from Logrono - Burgos and from Sarria to Santiago). All the weather information is so vague - I understand it will be cool and that rain is probable for about half the time (more in Galicia). However, I just did the St Jean - Roncevalles crossing in the snow, cold and mud and was very glad to have 2 hiking companions - very foggy and it would have been easy to become disoriented without a few sets of eyes looking for waymarks. I see that there are even higher summits between Astorga and O Cebreio, and I will be walking this stretch in the second week of November. Has anyone done this at this time of year? I want to make sure I'm prepared with appropriate gear. Also, I most likely will be doing this stretch alone, with few other pilgrims around given the time of year. Is that a silly thing to do? How many other pilgrims might I expect to see?
Thanks.

 

[whariwharangi]

I walked last fall. I arrived in Fisterra mid December.

It never got cold. Temperatures even during periods of snow never dipped far below freezing. Even though it didn't get warm enough to take the jacket off it was never 'winter conditions'. Caveat: I'm from Canada so my definition of 'cold' might be different than yours.

It started getting cool enough in mid November that the scarf and the gloves did not come off all day. Sun glasses were no longer needed. There was usually frost in the mornings.

You are right to seriously consider the passes from Astorga and O'Cebreiro. However, the big deal with route Napoleon is its distance to shelter. There is less distance between stops on the other two passes.

I encountered snow in O'Cebreiro. I walked on the road because the trail was obscured and was thinking it would have been nice to have something fluorescent to make myself more visible.

Route finding was never an issue. If the trails are obscured by snow then walk on the road even if it means you are walking further. Just step off whenever there is traffic (and there is not much).

The squalls in Galacia were of note. I saw squalls just after I finished where the streets got filled with rain water in about 5 minutes. Apparently the rains arrived late last year ...

The later in the season the fewer the pilgrims. However, the closer you get to Santiago, the more pilgrims ... so it balances out. I had several nights where there were only 3 or 4 other pilgrims sharing the Albergue.

Many of the Albergues were closed. That meant planning ahead to make sure I got to a larger town where the Xunta Albergues were usually open.

There is nothing silly about walking in late season. I enjoyed my walk immensely.

 

[smallcat]

Thanks very much for your perspective!! I'm from Minnesota, so I'm pretty hardy, too. Glad to hear you enjoyed your walk despite the weather! I hadn't thought about the increase in number of pilgrims as you get closer to Santiago - that's good to know.

Like you, when I crossed from SJPD to Roncevalles in snowy conditions, I followed the road to keep out of trouble. I would definitely do that if walking the high country around O Cebreio, especially if walking alone.

Thanks for the tip on the fluorescent clothes idea -- I may add some to my rain jacket and pack.

Did you use a guide to find out which albergues and hostels were open? If so, was it fairly accurate or did you have any issues finding a place to stay?

 

[mspath]

smallcat,

I too have often walked the camino in late autumn and winter.

Not all albergues will be open after mid October but the hospitaleros usually know who is open on the next stage. Since the throngs of summer have passed you will find the welcome at those albergues which are open to be most sincere; generally they will either be heated or have blankets, but not all. In some places I was THE only pilgrim.

The best advice is to BE PREPARED for extreme and varied weather. Nights could be bitter cold with freezing rain or snow; it is important to read the sky for possible storms. Regarding the state of the path and weather forecasts be sure to ask the locals and watch TV reports.

In bad weather many steep descents on the camino would be treacherous and following smaller parallel roads might be necessary. As you may know this past spring the Napoleon route from SJPdP to Roncevalles was blocked with several meters of snow and in effect closed to pilgrims thus necessitating the use of the Valcarlos alternate. You can read about this situation in the Forum topic. >> el-camino-frances/topic16961.html Of course you plan to continue from Logrono.

Nevertheless other difficult stretches west of Logrono after future storms might be from Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada or across the Montes de Oca from Villafranca as well as Monte irago and, of course, O Cebriero.

Even last November 29 the climb up to O Cebriero was packed with snow. You can see the snow and read my blog account of this memorable storm at >> http://mermore.blogspot.fr/2011/04/aavmo.html. Luckily the open albergue offered welcoming shelter, heat and companionship.

My kit has evolved to be warm and cozy but still a lightweight 6.5 kilos. During eight caminos it has been comfortable in 'difficult' weather conditions including deep mud, heavy wind, lashing rain, freezing albergues and three true blizzards as well as walking in glorious golden sunshine. Like many veteran pilgrims do I layer basic items when necessary. One important change made over time is now the jacket is bright reflective yellow and for my next camino the poncho will be day-glo orange for maximum safety as mentioned by whariwharangi. Here is my kit list >> http://mermore.blogspot.fr/p/kit-and-tips.html

Whatever you plan to take be sure to test wearing and carrying it. Tried and true is better than new and never worn for all your camino gear.

Happy planning and Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[Priscillian]

Here in Galicia we have missed out on spring completely! The local joke is that we are in a financial crisis and couldn´t afford it. Last year we had almost no rain from January to May. This year it barely ever stopped.
Having said that, I think you can see that predicting the weather now is a lost cause.
Get a good poncho!

 

[smallcat]

Thanks to all for the information and advice! You are right about missing Spring! My rain gear was tested (and passed with flying colors) during my recent rainy, muddy, windy and sometimes snowy walk from SJPD to Logrono. But I will heed the advice on layers for more warmth and bright or neon for safety!

 

[whariwharangi]

The staff at the Pilgrim Office in SJPdP gave me a list of public and association Albergues. Some of the private Albergues are not on it. The list included dates that the Albergues were open.

It wasn't 100% accurate but I never ended up walking further than planned due to a closed Albergue.

I don't know where else you would obtain a copy of said list.

I used Brierley's guide. It did not indicate which Albergues are open in shoulder and off season.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Thanks to all for the information and advice! You are right about missing Spring! My rain gear was tested (and passed with flying colors) during my recent rainy, muddy, windy and sometimes snowy walk from SJPD to Logrono. But I will heed the advice on layers for more warmth and bright or neon for safety!

what raingear did you use?

 

[whariwharangi]

what raingear did you use?

I wore shorts with gaiters always. If it rained I wore a poncho that also went over my pack. This was sufficient for most of the rainy weather where it couldn't make up its mind if it was going to rain or not.

If it was windy and raining hard my rain jacket (North Face Nylon) went on underneath the poncho.

I wore thermal long johns under the shorts during my day through the snow. I could have done without.

The secret to staying dry is don't get wet. Put your rain gear on and if possible find shelter when it starts raining.

Its not so much about staying dry as it is about staying warm. That often means keep moving.

The rain jacket also saw service as a wind break when the cold wind swept down from the mountains.

All of my gear gets packed in waterproof stuff sacks. OR has light weight bags.

I carried a pair of rain pants from SJPdP to Santiago and never wore them once. I mailed the rain pants and the long johns home before going on to Fisterra.

 

[smallcat]

Kiwi-Family:

Guess Whariwharangi answered for me....

My raingear is a Gortex jacket by Outdoor Research and North Face rain pants (which I DID wear everyday). Backpack with raincover and 4 coats of waterproofing spray on my hiking boots. Gortex gloves. I don't care for ponchos, especially in windy conditions. I do carry one for times when it looks like it may be a passing shower and putting on all the gear is too much work.