Le Puy or del Norte?

[Suki]

I walked the Camino Frances in 2015 and am trying to decide on whether to walk the Le Puy route or the Camino del Norte this year. I would like to start in early May. I am a woman who will be walking alone. Are both routes well marked? Also I have read that a lot of the CdN is on the road. Is that also the case for the Le Puy route? Thanks!

 

[Former member 35551]

I did Le Puy to Santiago in May 2014. Of the three camino sections I have done (Lisbon to Portugal is the 3rd), Le Puy to St Jean is my favorite. While not as extensive as Francis, it is very well marked with the white and red stripes. It is very beautiful. The food and people are great. There aren't as many pilgrims and it is not as commercialized as Francis. I don't recall it being any more on roads than Francis. Actually, think it was less on roads. Definitely not like Portuguese (internal), especially Lisbon to Porto, which is practically 90% on roads.

I never felt threatened or in danger (but am a guy). But there were many woman of various ages walking the Le Puy route and I never heard from anyone about anything threatening or dangerous. It does have more ups and downs than Francis, especially in the beginning and most people I met, who had done both, said that Le Puy took more time to complete.

Most everyone else walking will be French, doing a week or two week section. While there aren't as many people, there are enough to join a camino family if you want. You also want to be very aware of national holidays (I think there are two in the first week of May). You'll want to make reservations for popular towns like Conques.

I'm planning on mid-May start for the Del Norte, next year. Based on my knowledge of Le Puy and what I have read about Del Norte, I would recommend Le Puy.

 

[Suki]

Thank you! How many days did it take you to Santiago? And how was the weather?

 

[Former member 35551]

I like to walk fast and don't take many zeros. I did Le Puy to St Jean in 25 days which included no zeros and St Jean to Santiago in 25 days also and included two half days of walking.

It was cold, especially at night and the first two weeks. It snowed one day in the Aubrac (I think it was May 2nd or 3rd). It was also pretty wet thru the Aubrac and the next region over Aveyron(? not positive about name).

The non-municipal gites are much nicer and more expensive. The municipal gites are about the same in cost and quality. The big difference is the food, which is significantly better but much more expensive also. By food I mean dinner but you can always cook, which many people did.

 

[Suki]

Thanks that is very helpful. Were there other pilgrims on the trail?

 

[Former member 35551]

There are other pilgrims and there are many hikers also. The hikers are all French and they are doing anywhere from a weekend to two weeks, with very few going past St Jean. Note that the Le Puy route is part of the GR trails and, in addition to Chemin St Jacques, is commonly referred to as GR 65.

You will not have any trouble finding someone to walk with.

If you don't know French, it helps to know some basic phrases. I found Google Translate on my phone very useful. I would highly recommend Miam Miam Dodo as the guidebook. It's in French but easy to figure out. In addition to being an excellent guide, it forces you to learn some basic phrases/words that you should know if you're going to walk in France.

 

[kayagee66]

I walked alone in September 2016. Most walkers were French, very friendly. Quite a lot of solo walkers, a mixture of men and women. Felt very safe.
Lovely route. Average €30 for a bed in a gite, with breakfast and a superb evening meal. Almost all meals were communal and great. Very informal, very friendly. I recommend taking the bed and meal option (Demi-Pension) as often the villages are very small and there could be nowhere else to eat (especially breakfast). Most beds were not the bunk bed type which was nice after all the bunks in Spain.
My French is next to non existent. I managed fine. I can do the pleasantries and knew how to book a bed. I booked the day before for a bed, sometimes on the day. Best to book ahead for Fridays and weekends as many French walk at weekends.
It is well marked. I used the book 'Lightfoot guide to the Via Podiensis' very good accommodation guide/reviews, always spot on for me. In English with phone numbers.
I also downloaded the Miam Miam App and bought the app guide for it. Very good for route and phone numbers, in French.
If you see an accommodation called 'Ferme' it will be on a farm, and every one i stayed on was great, with brilliant cooking and produce from that farm.

 

[Thornley]

I walked the Camino Frances in 2015 and am trying to decide on whether to walk the Le Puy route or the Camino del Norte this year. I would like to start in early May. I am a woman who will be walking alone. Are both routes well marked? Also I have read that a lot of the CdN is on the road. Is that also the case for the Le Puy route? Thanks!

We've done both
Le Puy hands down ,
You will be well looked after by beautiful country people

 

[Suki]

Thank you!!! Do you think starting early May is a god time?

 

[Kanga]

I've done both. I don't agree with Thornley that Le Puy wins. You can't lose whichever you choose, they are both beautiful. If walking in France you will be paying more and spending time with many French walkers; there are not nearly as many international walkers. The infrastructure is not as good in France, many of the small villages no longer have shops so you are more dependant on the accommodation providers for meals, and you have less choice. On the Norte there is more choice of food and accommodation - a good albergue infrastructure, as well as plenty of private options because it is a holiday area. I would always elect to stay in albergues if walking alone, because that is the best way to meet people who are also walking.

I loved walking the Le Puy by myself, but I was often alone. I did not find the "community" of walkers in France that I always find in Spain.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

May is a good time for the weather on the Le Puy route. May has a lot of French holidays, so the French will be out in force. That means you will need to call ahead just as they do. Your host will help with the calling if you need help. Let the telephone substitute for walking around at the end of the day. You should not need to reserve more than a day ahead, so you can be spontaneous. You will love the food, the people, and the scenery on the route. Bon chemin.

 

[Kitsambler]

May is so popular with the French - holidays for May Day, V-E Day, and Whitsun (all of which are made into long weekends) - that I have a hard time imagining you'd be alone. Maybe if you leave especially early or late in the mornings, or after Cahors (the halfway point), you might have a few hours of solitude. Based on the town lodging capacity, you'll have 40-50 other walkers in your daily cohort.

 

[backpack45]

These are my two favorite routes and I would have an extremely hard time choosing between them. The French women are great walkers--out for the day, week, or fort-night in little groups and I think you would feel very welcome there. On the Norte, you would not find that many people out walking on your route unless they are pilgrims. Both are extremely beautiful trails in different ways--the Aubrac and the market towns of the LePuy route, the coastal cities with gorgeous beaches, and mountains for contrast, of the Norte.

 

[Kanga]

Oh @backpack45 I could not agree more! I loved the Le Puy (walked it twice) but I just wanted to give some balance to the Norte.

 

[Thornley]

ost everyone else walking will be French, doing a week or two week section. While there aren't as many people, there are enough to join a camino family if you want

One thousand percent correct

You will not have any trouble finding someone to walk with.

Agree as they are going at a lovely pace , no one is in a rush

The big difference is the food, which is significantly better but much more expensive also. By food I mean dinner but you can always cook, which many people did.

Agree completely, cooking was very popular in the market towns .
The average meal in all gites is around 11-13 euros.
There will be no ice cream in a cup for desert
The main meal will be home cooked , chips will be missing , and
The soup will be made with love.
You will be given cheese, wine etc in a lovely family , communal environment with 15 plus people

On the Norte there is more choice of food and accommodation

The Norte will have more variety with food but the rooms on Le Puy will normally be for 2 , 4 or 6 people or if you wish as many as you want.

I would always elect to stay in albergues if walking alone, because that is the best way to meet people who are also walking.

Because of the beautiful towns normally used for stopovers , especially up until Cahors , Suki will never be alone and the amount of people walking in May will always ensure that the gite has plenty of people.

the "community" of walkers in France that I always find in Spain

Is the OP seeking a community???
or
Did the OP hear like we did in 2007 [ amongst a less crowded path compared to now] how beautiful Le Puy was or how these crowds have not hit the Norte ?

Based on the town lodging capacity, you'll have 40-50 other walkers in your daily cohort

And if seeking a community thats enough for a round of drinks

 

[Suki]

Thanks everyone! It seems that whichever route I pick is a winner. My biggest concern is getting lost. And deciding whether to do a crash course in Spanish or French! Does 30 days to SJPP form Le Puy seem reasonable?

 

[Kitsambler]

Does 30 days to SJPP form Le Puy seem reasonable?

Not really -- unless you are doing 30 km days. In the 18 km range, it's more like 6 weeks, inclusive of rest days.

 

[Thornley]

Thanks everyone! It seems that whichever route I pick is a winner. My biggest concern is getting lost. And deciding whether to do a crash course in Spanish or French! Does 30 days to SJPP form Le Puy seem reasonable?

Kits is close but 5 weeks if you allow 22-23km a day.

 

[LeiaLane]

I read from other posts about the unleashed dog issue on Le Puy route.
What if, oh dear God, what if the situation happened, barking or worse....., what should I do? Running?

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I read from other posts about the unleashed dog issue on Le Puy route.
What if, oh dear God, what if the situation happened, barking or worse....., what should I do? Running?

Dogs are not a problem.

 

[LeiaLane]

Thank you !

 

[mla1]

Dogs were all behind fences.

 

[expmrw]

I walked the Camino Frances in 2015 and am trying to decide on whether to walk the Le Puy route or the Camino del Norte this year. I would like to start in early May. I am a woman who will be walking alone. Are both routes well marked? Also I have read that a lot of the CdN is on the road. Is that also the case for the Le Puy route? Thanks!

I have walked from Le Puy to SJPdP twice and it is a wonderful way to start any camino. The scenery is stunning, there are planty of good gites d'etape and you could manage most of it without a map as it is well signposted. We always take a map incase there os a nedd to go ''off piste'' but the Topo guides are very good. Hope this helps

 

[nalod]

I have done both and they are superb. I have never found "the road sections" on the Del Norte to be a problem as they are very quiet and very scenic. You can't go wrong with either but the Le Puy route will cost more and very little English spoken. The French on the Le Puy route tend to book the Gites in advance. I have a photographic blog you might like to view. I will give you both links http://dermotdolan.blogspot.ie/2014/10/the-le-puy-route-gr65-chemin-st-jacques.html http://dermotdolan.blogspot.ie/2015/10/camino-del-norte-september-october-2015.html

 

[ChloeRose]

I walked the Le Puy route alone and genuinely never felt uncomfortable or in danger. Locals (mostly women) would sometimes express concern for my safety ("don't you feel scared!"), but never my fellow hikers or hosts. Of course, you're never really alone on the Camino, I was never further than a couple km from the next pilgrim.

I speak French, which helped a lot, but it had been a long time and my French was pretty terrible. All the locals I met were extremely friendly and patient with me! Most of the guide books for this section are in French, but the Miam Miam Dodo (the most popular guide) has all of its listings marked with symbols for easy understanding.

The signage is a bit mixed, as each district along the route maintains its own markings. They all use the red and white stripes, some towns paint them on trees, other towns have more permanent metal signs.

BUT! I found Le Puy to have better markings than the Camino Frances (No one is going around with a spray can to reroute lost pilgrims towards their business, for example.)

 

[LeiaLane]

Thank you !
I feel more confident now about walking solo on Le Puy route.
Just need to shed some more weight.........

 

[Suki]

I have done both and they are superb. I have never found "the road sections" on the Del Norte to be a problem as they are very quiet and very scenic. You can't go wrong with either but the Le Puy route will cost more and very little English spoken. The French on the Le Puy route tend to book the Gites in advance. I have a photographic blog you might like to view. I will give you both links http://dermotdolan.blogspot.ie/2014/10/the-le-puy-route-gr65-chemin-st-jacques.html http://dermotdolan.blogspot.ie/2015/10/camino-del-norte-september-october-2015.html

Thank you! The photos are beautiful. Which month did you walk the Le Puy route?

 

[Suki]

I walked the Le Puy route alone and genuinely never felt uncomfortable or in danger. Locals (mostly women) would sometimes express concern for my safety ("don't you feel scared!"), but never my fellow hikers or hosts. Of course, you're never really alone on the Camino, I was never further than a couple km from the next pilgrim.

I speak French, which helped a lot, but it had been a long time and my French was pretty terrible. All the locals I met were extremely friendly and patient with me! Most of the guide books for this section are in French, but the Miam Miam Dodo (the most popular guide) has all of its listings marked with symbols for easy understanding.

The signage is a bit mixed, as each district along the route maintains its own markings. They all use the red and white stripes, some towns paint them on trees, other towns have more permanent metal signs.

BUT! I found Le Puy to have better markings than the Camino Frances (No one is going around with a spray can to reroute lost pilgrims towards their business, for example.)

Thanks! If the Le Puy route has better signage than the Camino Frances then one has nothing to worry about!

 

[nalod]

Thank you! The photos are beautiful. Which month did you walk the Le Puy route?

Those Photographs are from mid September 2014, but I have also hiked the route in early April 2012 where I encountered a bit of snow on the Aubrac but it was very beautiful then also. I believe the Wildflowers are magic in May. I believe the route can be busy from mid July to mid AUGUST as this is when a lot the French take holidays and you can get a lot of French hikers doing part of the route, not necessarily as Pilgrims but doing it as a GR (It is also known as the GR 65 which is a long distance hiking route that is also the Pilgrim route) Hope this is helpful. Regards Dermot

 

[NavyBlue]

I believe the route can be busy from mid July to mid AUGUST as this is when a lot the French take holidays and you can get a lot of French hikers doing part of the route, not necessarily as Pilgrims but doing it as a GR

Hi,

I read in the Miam-Miam-Dodo (2014), for the Le Puy way : Contrary to the common beliefs, the busiest months are April-May-September. Accommodation will be less busy in July-August-October.

Many explanations can be found : pilgrims wanting to walk in France or to arrive in Spain before the hottest monthes, long french week-ends in May, retirees released from grand-parents duties in September...

 

[BlackRocker57]

wonderful, insightful contributions on this question from everyone ... I have walked the LePuy/GR65 route in two steps: solo in Spring 2016 and with friends in Autumn 2014 ... heading back there again this year in the northern autumn with a group from my local U3A [and/or with my brother] for another crack at it ... all the way through this time from Le Puy to StJPP ... with rest days included I am counting on at least 6 weeks; likely closer to 45 days as we will be taking all the recommended deviations, incl. Célé Valley, day trip to Rocamadour, etc.

30 days seems a touch short to me ...

On both previous editions I/we mixed up the stages, some days longer, some days shorter and included rest days, especially as there are so many impossibly-beautiful and impossibly-interesting towns that are worthy of a longer stay [other than just a few hours] ... rest days also allow you time to pause and take-in the whole experience, «to stop and smell the roses», and for built-in recovery time for feet, legs and body.

On the other matters raised here re Le Puy route, I have not found dogs to be a problem, nor personal safety, nor loneliness OR getting lost ... I would [now] not leave home without the brilliant iPhiGéNie app on my phone.

 

[Thornley]

recovery time for feet, legs and body.

Normally in one of those extremely expensive hotels if i am correct.
Make sure you leave a quid / $$$ for the wake

 

[long trails]

I read an account of someone who camped a lot of Le Puy because they were on a budget. They would often camp at the Gites and pay for the evening meal and breakfast. Seems quite doable as 30 Eur a day would soon add up.

 

[Camino Chris]

These are my two favorite routes and I would have an extremely hard time choosing between them. The French women are great walkers--out for the day, week, or fort-night in little groups and I think you would feel very welcome there. On the Norte, you would not find that many people out walking on your route unless they are pilgrims. Both are extremely beautiful trails in different ways--the Aubrac and the market towns of the LePuy route, the coastal cities with gorgeous beaches, and mountains for contrast, of the Norte.

I've done the Del Norte/Primitivo route last year and would love to consider the Le Puy, but have been reluctant as I've felt insecure about walking in France. You (and the previous comments by others) are helping me become excited about the possibility of doing this route in 2018.

 

[Davey Boyd]

I've done the Del Norte/Primitivo route last year and would love to consider the Le Puy, but have been reluctant as I've felt insecure about walking in France. You (and the previous comments by others) are helping me become excited about the possibility of doing this route in 2018.

No need to feel insecure walking in France, I was as well looked after by the locals in France as I was is Spain. I have been asked many times if I prefer walking in Spain or France, but that is impossible to answer, because both are totally different, but both very beautiful. I cant wait to walk in France again! You will not be disappointed!

Davey

 

[Camino Chris]

No need to feel insecure walking in France, I was as well looked after by the locals in France as I was is Spain. I have been asked many times if I prefer walking in Spain or France, but that is impossible to answer, because both are totally different, but both very beautiful. I cant wait to walk in France again! You will not be disappointed!

Davey

Thank you, Davey, for the encouraging words! I won't close the door on considering that route after all!

 

[bjorgts]

As you may have seen, I am posting videos from these two caminos just now. I have walked them both, and I can not compare and not choose one or the other. They are too different. You have got good arguments for both here. But ... I have walked some caminos, and I have said that Camino Norte is the most beautiful of them all... because of the coastline ...
[URL='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Grhl7XaCujE']Camino del Norte, Camino de Santiago, Irun - Santander, Part 6/9 , Camino del Norte, Camino de Santiago, Santander - Luarca, Part 7/9[/URL] , Camino del Norte, Camino de Santiago, Luarca - Santiago, Part 8/9 . GR65, Camino de Santiago, Chemin de Saint Jacques, Le Puy - Conques Part 2/9. Two more will foolow soon.
Bjorg