Le Puy Route or Camino Portugues?

[Rossco]

I walked the Camino from SJPDP last October with my wife and now I am trying to decide between Camino Portugues and Le Puy Route hopefully in March next year. This time I am going alone and meeting up with my wife when I finish. I would appreciate any information from people who have walked either of these routes at that time of the year re weather and availability of accommodation. I understand that Portugal would be considerably less expensive than France but I really like France. I've never been to Portugal but I imagine France would be more scenic. Looking forward to any info.

 

[Kanga]

Probably best advice would come from those who have done both, and can make a comparison.

I've done the Le Puy twice - which goes to show I loved it - but have not done the Portuguese. The Le Puy is certainly very beautiful, with varied landscape, pretty villages and river towns. In March the section across the Aubrac Plateaux could be cold, muddy, and possibly with snow.

The Le Puy is about 800km to SJPDP, so about the same length as the Francés, whereas the Portuguese is usually done from Porto and is under 250km. It can be done from Lisbon but much of that seems to be by bus. Please correct me, those who have done it, if that is not the case.

Have a look at Gronze to compare route distances, elevations and details for accomodation, costs and availability (open the individual stages to see the elevations and accommodation).

Whatever you decide, I am sure you will enjoy!

 

[Rossco]

Probably best advice would come from those who have done both, and can make a comparison.

I've done the Le Puy twice - which goes to show I loved it - but have not done the Portuguese. The Le Puy is certainly very beautiful, with varied landscape, pretty villages and river towns. In March the section across the Aubrac Plateaux could be cold, muddy, and possibly with snow.

The Le Puy is about 800km to SJPDP, so about the same length as the Francés, whereas the Portuguese is usually done from Porto and is under 250km. It can be done from Lisbon but much of that seems to be by bus. Please correct me, those who have done it, if that is not the case.

Have a look at Gronze to compare route distances, elevations and details for accomodation, costs and availability (open the individual stages to see the elevations and accommodation).

Whatever you decide, I am sure you will enjoy!

Thanks Kanga.

 

[jsalt]

It can be done from Lisbon but much of that seems to be by bus. Please correct me, those who have done it, if that is not the case.

I walked every step of the way from Lisbon on my first camino in 2012. I have been back several times (because I love the Portuguese people), and took a bus or train on stretches that I didn’t want to walk again because a) I was short on time, or b) it was well over 30 degrees celsius. Jill

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

In May I walked from Le Puy to Conques (and then took local buses for sightseeing down the track). The scenery and the walking were lovely. My only problem was that in most of the accommodation the other pilgrims were almost enirely French. If you cant speak French you are out of it! I have"cherry-picked" parts of the Portugues. The other pilgrims were a mixed bag of nationalities and English was widely spoken by the locals, because nobody speaks Portuguese!!

 

[Kanga]

Yes, English language seems a big positive about the Portuguese routes.

 

[Marion-SantiagoInLove]

I have not done the Portuguese, but I feel from your post that Le Puy route attracts you more (?). Regarding that, I'd say go for this one! Here's some tips about this route:
October in France tends to have a nicer and nicer weather. It would be definitely colder than Portugal, but still nice. There might be rain too, although it's quite unpredictable these years... I was in Cahors in the end of October this year and the weather was nice! Only 2 days of rain in 2 weeks.

Accommodations are more expensive in France. There are some donativos, lots of public/private albergues between 10-15€, lots of private albergue between 15-...€. Most are opened until the end of October and some are open all year long, but some may also have closed already. I think the best option here would be to get the Miam Miam Dodo guidebook, that details all about accommodations. It's in French, but a quite basic/practical French: relatively easy/quick to understand.

Most people are French and speak French, but there are more and more people from elsewhere, most speaking English. I think doing the Camino and not understanding the main language is kind of a regular experience (ie many people walk the Francés and don't speak English...) This is a more accurate experience of travel and international gathering It may feel more "adventurous" and so "bolder" to go, but imo it enhances the qualities found in traveling.
Whatsoever, it's always possible to communicate! One of the most talkative person I ever met on the Camino only spoke his own language and was talking all the time to everyone... and everyone was understanding and talking back to him! It also makes some amazing memories. Don't hesitate to talk to people!

Whatever your choice, Bon Caminho, Bon Chemin!

 

[karenhypes]

You will enjoy either route. We thought the Le Puy route was absolutely beautiful. Of course, the Portuguese route is beautiful as well, in a different sort of way. If you have the time I suggest doing the Portuguese route from Lisbon, not quite as long as from Le Puy to SJPP, but very doable. That way you have more opportunity to experience the culture......and food. Food is great on both routes but we found the small gites in France had the best ever. Costs are comparable, of course that depends on what your preferences are, ie. Gites/albergues/hotels etc. We did both routes in Apr/May. Language isn't really a problem on either route.......the people are nice, and finding accommodation isn't really an issue either. Bottom line, just go....either choice will be great.

Dayton and Karen

 

[Anemone del Camino]

When I walked the Frances a Spaniard said he thought that I would enjoy the Portuguese. Also, when walking the Frances I heard many French people complain about the Frances, saying how it didn't hold a candle to French routes. But who has not experience French chauvinism? What do I think now?

I did not like the Portuguese (walked from Porto onward): blah scenery, blah food, but yes a few beautiful points such as Valenca, Tui, Pontevedra and the Variante Espiritual.

If € are no object I would head to the French routes, although with headphones to buffer some of the chauvinists.

 

[luvtraveling]

I have not walked either route, but would like to say that I will be starting in Lisbon on March 7, 2017. Maybe we'll see each other, if you walk the Portugues.

 

[Doogman]

Hi: I have walked the Le Puy route and both the Portuguese central and Portuguese coastal routes from Porto. They are all good routes, and I would not hesitate to do any of them again. But if I was forced to choose between them, I would likely go with the Le Puy route. After I had completed my first section of the Le Puy (Le Puy to Conques) I decided that I would return and complete the rest of the route another time (which I did over a couple of trips a few years later). I found that there were more people on the Le Puy route, if you like that, especially on the earlier sections, and perhaps my rudimentary French helped out a bit. But there is nothing wrong with the Portuguese routes - I thoroughly enjoyed both. The coastal way was particularly nice IMO, but that was in July, not March. Unfortunately, I cannot help with your actual question regarding the month of March, as I walked all of these routes in the summer months.

 

[Bloubird]

I have not walked either route, but would like to say that I will be starting in Lisbon on March 7, 2017. Maybe we'll see each other, if you walk the Portugues.

I'll be walking from Lisbon in 2017 but will start the middle of September. I'll be watching your posts and gathering information. I'm very excited for you!

 

[Rossco]

Probably best advice would come from those who have done both, and can make a comparison.

I've done the Le Puy twice - which goes to show I loved it - but have not done the Portuguese. The Le Puy is certainly very beautiful, with varied landscape, pretty villages and river towns. In March the section across the Aubrac Plateaux could be cold, muddy, and possibly with snow.

The Le Puy is about 800km to SJPDP, so about the same length as the Francés, whereas the Portuguese is usually done from Porto and is under 250km. It can be done from Lisbon but much of that seems to be by bus. Please correct me, those who have done it, if that is not the case.

Have a look at Gronze to compare route distances, elevations and details for accomodation, costs and availability (open the individual stages to see the elevations and accommodation).

Whatever you decide, I am sure you will enjoy!

Hi Kanga. In your opinion would Le Puy Route be more physically challenging than the Camino de Santiago. I found some of the mountain stages of the Camino quite brutal. I'm fit enough for these climbs, I'd like to know what I'm in for.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

would Le Puy Route be more physically challenging than the Camino de Santiago

Both are toughest in the first days. Part is terrain, part is the pilgrim becoming conditioned. I found them fairly equivalent.

 

[HenkSlb]

The Le Puy is about 800km to SJPDP, so about the same length as the Francés, whereas the Portuguese is usually done from Porto and is under 250km. It can be done from Lisbon but much of that seems to be by bus. Please correct me, those who have done it, if that is not the case!

I walked from Lisbon to SdC in April 2016. No bus, just my feet. It would be a pity to miss places like Tomar and Coimbra. Just try it!

 

[Kanga]

@Rossco nothing on the Le Puy is as difficult as the Route Napoleon. The first section to Conques is up and down, and I found the descent into and ascent out of Monistrol d'Allier quite challenging - but not near as difficult as the walk out of SJPDP.

 

[backpack45]

We have done both and much preferred the LePuy route. Did the LePuy route over a three-year period (2004-2006) due to time limitations. Loved it--especially the first part going through the market towns. You are very likely to have snow in March on the Aubrac (early section). We did that section at the end of April of our first year. However, when we got through the higher portions, we found incredible fields of narcissus (daffodils). We were glad to have good raingear, long underwear, sleeping bags (one woman got lost because the markings were unclear due to the weather), etc. We did the Portuguese from Porto in 2007. LePuy is much more difficult (and more expensive). You don't need to speak French to get by (though it is great if you can). Get the Miam Miam Dodo guidebook--it's in French but easily understood.

 

[Marion-SantiagoInLove]

But who has not experience French chauvinism?

Yeah, I did too! And what to say of their everlasting discontentment and complaining? I agree, earplugs is a must!
Bloody French people!!!

(Just to say, I'm French myself)
(and sometimes, I really wish I had earplugs close at hand! Better smile and laugh...)
(Lovely French people!)

 

[kelleymac]

I was thinking of the walk from Porto, but now am looking at the LePuy route. -- I am concerned about cost. Are there cheap places with kitchens to use? Camping? -- Another concern, my French is very very rusty. I studied French in University, and at the Institut Catholique in 1985. I know enough still to read, and enough so that French words come to mind when I'm trying like crazy to speak Spanish after walking for 9 hours. ---My German is better, having lived in Heidelberg, and meeting with a 90 year old Austrian woman every week to chat (and take her grocery shopping). But is knowing German a good thing in southwestern France?

 

[Marion-SantiagoInLove]

Are there cheap places with kitchens to use? Camping?

Yes, there are The cheapest places are ~10€/12€, many have kitchens. You'll find camping grounds too (note that some may be just as expensive as the nearest pilgrim's gite...) Many accommodations allow campers in their garden, for a cheaper price than the beds inside (~6€, with access to the bathroom/kitchen). There are also a fair number of shelters along the way. Of course, no kitchen/bathrooms there. Finally, look for donativos!
And the best way to know about all your options is to get a Miam Miam Dodo guidebook...

my French is very very rusty ... But is knowing German a good thing in southwestern France?

Rusty is good already! In any country (or regions), trying to speak the local language will soften people, make them happy, make them want to help you and open unexpected doors. I think it's especially true in France, where I've heard "in France, one must speak French" way too many times... (these bloody French again! ) So, I think you'll be just fine
Then, sorry to say this, but knowing German will be as helpful as if you knew Chinese instead... Unless you meet a German, in which case you'll make his-her day!

Bon Chemin!

 

[Thornley]

I walked the Camino from SJPDP last October with my wife and now I am trying to decide between Camino Portugues and Le Puy Route hopefully in March next year. This time I am going alone and meeting up with my wife when I finish. I would appreciate any information from people who have walked either of these routes at that time of the year re weather and availability of accommodation. I understand that Portugal would be considerably less expensive than France but I really like France. I've never been to Portugal but I imagine France would be more scenic. Looking forward to any info.

The part Monistrol Rossco is better attempted in the morning . It is also short compared to the first day on Frances .....similar to the climb to La Faba .
Everyone i know and we included think 15 km's [ give or take 2km] for the first 3 days on Le Puy . It works and is very enjoyable.
The scenery is seriously beautiful and the walk enjoyable.

As mentioned previously the towns of Coimbra [ oldest university city in Europe?] and later in Spain Pontevedra are special.
The later has a Parador and in March it might be your day to rest , enjoy and spoil .
Then again Conques , Estaing and Espallion we really loved . Maybe it was the market atmosphere .
Portuguese will be cheaper with accommodation but once the food is added there will not be a great variance.
The Portuguese people are kind and considerate everywhere , coastal or inland .
The country gites in France are something we adore, we have been back 3 times to the GR65 .
Once after Mont St Michel which we departed at Bordeaux getting the train to Figeac and went as far as Santo Domingo de la C.
March "could" be lonely on both , the GR will be hard on The Aubrac but the accommodation , open fires and great dinner will more than cover for the sharp weather.
If HRH was going i would say GR with confidence as the accommodation with private rooms appeals to my RH
I would get MMDD and select where english is spoken for a bed if the language is a worry .It should not be and they will also book a few days ahead for you if required.
If the weather turns to crap don't be afraid to use Claudine's to get the bags ahead, its very , very good.


As my son keeps saying about our feet/ legs and flexibility............use them or loose them Dad.
Toss the coin and do both in the coming years.
Safe journey regardless

 

[kelleymac]

Yes, there are The cheapest places are ~10€/12€, many have kitchens. You'll find camping grounds too (note that some may be just as expensive as the nearest pilgrim's gite...) Many accommodations allow campers in their garden, for a cheaper price than the beds inside (~6€, with access to the bathroom/kitchen). There are also a fair number of shelters along the way. Of course, no kitchen/bathrooms there. Finally, look for donativos!
And the best way to know about all your options is to get a Miam Miam Dodo guidebook...


Rusty is good already! In any country (or regions), trying to speak the local language will soften people, make them happy, make them want to help you and open unexpected doors. I think it's especially true in France, where I've heard "in France, one must speak French" way too many times... (these bloody French again! ) So, I think you'll be just fine
Then, sorry to say this, but knowing German will be as helpful as if you knew Chinese instead... Unless you meet a German, in which case you'll make his-her day!

Bon Chemin!

I just ordered Miam Miam Dodo Guidebook, as a Christmas present for me.
I think I may take a course, or hire a tutor for my French. Or at least listen to some French television. Merci bien!

 

[Marion-SantiagoInLove]

a Christmas present for me.

Merry Christmas to you!