Le Puy Way in winter (February) - or Arles Way or Frances?

[proteus9]

Merry Christmas everyone!

It is today, that I decided to walk part of the camino from the 28th of January 2013 to the 6th of March 2013. (that's when I could take time off work).

I would love to start out from Le Puy, and I am aware that weather conditions may be difficult, and that I may have to interrupt my walk for one or a few days or that I may have to take a bus to bridge difficult/snowed-in sections.

Before you all feel compelled to say: ''Don't! It is too dangerous!'', consider this:

There ARE obviously people doing the le Puy way in winter, as statistics, kindly provided by the acceuil in St. Jean Pied de Port, speak of ~55 pilgrims that arrived in SJPDP from Le Puy during the three and a half winter months, mid November to end of February for the year 2011:
http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/spip/IMG/pdf/Article_STAT_2011_pour_le_site-2.pdf
(''605 pèlerins ont été accueillis: 82 % commencent le Chemin à Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port et près de la moitié de ceux qui arrivent par l’un des Chemins viennent de celui du Puy.'')

I also found a wonderful German blog of someone who started his pilgrimage from Konstanz in Germany, via Geneva, Le Puy to SJDC. He started his journey on the 25th of January and arrived in Le Puy 18 days later. The blog is written in German and provides great photos. Unfortunately the blog dates from 2006, and any informations given regarding accommodation is probably out of date.
http://spengler.li/camino_jakobsweg/

I speak French well and love speaking it, but don't speak Spanish, hence my preference for walking in France.

I also would like to consider walking the Chemin d'Arles in February, but this might be even more deserted than the Le Puy way?

The Camino Frances is certainly another option I want to consider! 496 pilgrims left during the 3.5 months of winter period 2011 from SJPDP, that's about 5 per day, which makes is a hell of a lot more crowded, promises more companionship, but also makes it safer, in case one ends up in a ditch with a sprained ankle! I also read that book by Wilna Wilkinson about her February Camino Frances.

Now, I haven't really asked any question yet, but what I would like to know is if anybody has walked any of the French ways in winter, or if anybody KNOWS if there will be enough opportunities to find a bed every night!
Or do you recommend the Frances?

Any information is greatly appreciated!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Re: Le Puy Way in February - or Arles Way or Frances?

5 per day, which makes is a hell of a lot more crowded

Compared to 1,000 per day during the high season, that is not many! Also, your numbers for the Le Puy route mean there is one pilgrim per day; YOU in this case! I have found that walking in France is more about being with the French, while the Camino Frances is about walking with other pilgrims. Since you speak French, you will have a great time by yourself during the day, and will be able to enjoy the French hospitality at night.

Bon chemin!

 

[newfydog]

Re: Le Puy Way in February - or Arles Way or Frances?

We have done all those routes.......hmmm

The Arles route is partly in the warm sunny south, then moves into some remote mountains, with long stages

The LePuy route is wonderful, but could get snowed out. More rooms available than the Arles

The weather would be nicer in Spain, but I too prefer France

They all would be great, if you are prepared for some winter

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Re: Le Puy Way in February - or Arles Way or Frances?

Even in early April sometimes people find it hard to start walking from Le Puy. Several of the early sections of the walk are at high altitude and are likely to be covered in snow, especially on the Aubrac Plateau.
With respect to your arrival stats in SJPP, many French people walk routes in 1-2 week stages. They may have arrived in SJPP in winter, and may have stated they began in Le Puy, but that doesn't necessarily mean they started in winter of that same year. My friends who have a gite in the southern part of the route have very few walkers stay with them from November until March.
Margaret

 

[Jubilado]

Re: Le Puy Way in February - or Arles Way or Frances?

Hi Proteus

 

[Kitsambler]

Personally, I think you are an excellent candidate for this winter Le Puy adventure. You have a realistic appreciation of the conditions you may encounter, you are flexible and willing to adapt as necessary, and ... perhaps most useful of all, you speak French. If anyone could succeed at this, you stand an excellent probability.

So your next steps involve improving your chances even more:
1) Make sure your kit includes a base layer, mid-weight layer, and weatherproof shell outer layer
2) Extra socks, since clothes drying may not be as effective as in warm months
3) Consider an Esbit stove and a metal cup, so you can boil up a cup of hot tea during the walking day
4) Consider micro-spikes (http://www.rei.com/product/774966/kahtoola-microspikes-traction-system) to safely cross icy patches
5) Carry a cell phone for sure!
6) Get a MMD copy, plan your itinerary and contact every gite by email (in French) to confirm they will be open on the desired date. Inquire about availability of open food stores/restaurants on the desired date. Reconfirm one week before you leave home. Call two days in advance of your arrival. It may well be the case that you are the only walker, and the only guest.

Be sure to take pictures and blog your trip, so we can follow your adventure.
Bon Chemin!

 

[newfydog]

Check out the route on Google Earth. A number of the photos in the Haute Aubrac region are winter shots. The Aubrac is high and wild, and would not be a good place in a storm, but could be wonderful on a clear winter day.

 

[Jubilado]

The Aub

 

[backpack45scb]

we have walked both the Le Puy and Arles routes, though in sections, about 3 weeks at a time. In 2004 we started the Le Puy route on April 30. Initially we had rain, but when we got to the Aubrac, there was 6 to 10 inches of fresh snow. Even though we had the topo-guide, and the Miam Miam Dodo, route finding was an issue. There are multiple trails and trail junctions, and the signs and markers can be completely covered with snow. At one junction there were a half dozen of us, casting about in different directions, trying to find where the trail continued. Eventually one person spotted a marker. However, for one person, that search would have been exhausting. Most of the remaining route through the snow covered region was on small roads, so route finding was not a problem. With the topo-guide, you could bypass trails on stay on the small roads when required. In full winter when the entire area is snow covered, keep in mind that in France there are few "comfort" trail markers. If the trail continues for three miles with no junctions, don't expect to see another marker until the next junction. If you miss that next marker you are in trouble.

The Arles route has much fewer pilgrims. Even during June and Sept. we would go multiple days without seeing any other pilgrims. That route has sections more remote and rugged than the Le Puy route. As far as accommodations, you can get the appropriate Miam Miam Dodo guide, and that will list their normal open season. You can telephone to double check.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

I would agree that the Aubrac Plateau should never be underestimated. I have walked it twice now, once late in April, and the second time in early May. Conditions could not have been more different.

The first time I walked, on day one, it became very wet and I was drenched and very cold. I was glad to reach the yurts at Rieutort-d'Aubrac so I could change and shower, as I was possibly close to hypothermia. On day two, it was suggested that I take the road rather than the chemin, since the chemin would be very muddy and wet. After a few kilometres of walking, the mist came down, and I saw nothing. As I arrived in Aubrac, suddenly a couple of 'round' towers loomed vaguely out of the mist. It was an incredibly medieval moment, when I felt like the monks were still around, providing a safe haven for pilgrims in the storm. I met some other walkers further on who had walked this section the day after me, when it had snowed. They had not seen any towers looming in Aubrac, as visibility was so poor they could barely see their hands in front of their noses.

This year I also walked the Aubrac Plateau, and the temperature was up around 30C. The views and the wildflowers were absolutely magnificent. And I discovered that the 'round' towers were actually square when I could see them properly. I was surprised to learn when I descended, that just a week previously, snow had lain 60cm deep in St Chely d-Aubrac- so it must have been very thick then up on the plateau itself.
Margaret