• For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here.
    (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation)
  • ⚠️ Emergency contact in Spain - Dial 112 and AlertCops app. More on this here.

Search 69,459 Camino Questions

LIVE from the Camino Leaving Seville tomorrow 2 March

tangata hikoi

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Le Puy to Pamploma (April/May 2014)
VDLP March 2019 Sanabres April 2019
Finisterre/Muxia April 2019
Hello All

Finally here and staying in the beautiful old town minutes from the Cathedral. Picked up my Credenciale from the lovely Hotel Simon with my friend (walking with me till Merida before she leaves and I carry on)

Lots of months in the planning to be here including the selling of my house in Liverpool in preparation for resettling back in NZ. However first I'm walking for the next 4 to 5 months starting here on the VDLP before carrying on elsewhere yet to be decided.

Have tried to glean as much info as possible from the many generous postings of others before me - thank you all - but might need a little help from time to time. Having observed this community from afar I know there are many helpful people out there.

Tomorrow is a very short day...just to Santiponce with some time at the ruins.
Temperature here about 20 degrees today but and told will be 24 tomorrow so hotting up already.

Megg
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Wow, you sold your house to be free of worldly possessions on the Camino! Hats off to you. Have a great journey. And …. Jealous on the NZ part as well, was there 12 days in February and loved it.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Guillena today. Hot, although I know it's no where near as hot as it can/will get and being no friend of heat am glad I am here early. Definitely feels like mid summer rather than spring.
Have seen 2 bicigrinos and there are 2 others here at Albergue De Luz. Happy to be starting slowly knowing some long days are ahead.
Notable to me is the friendliness of local people. I speak no Spanish but am getting by because of their helpfulness.
 
Am in Almaden de la Plata tonight in excellent albergue, Casa Del Reloj. Light rain and temperature dropped a lot to about 12/13 Celsius which is quite nice actually. No doubt we'll be back to scorching heat soon.
Not an easy route for vegetarians I think. I'm not, but I like my vegetables and not a lot around from what I can see. Menu very meat heavy although am enjoying the food that I've had.
Local people have been very helpful and I'm enjoying my bumbling interactions and appreciating their patience/forbearance as I try to make myself understood.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Hi there

My wife and I are also going to do the section from Seville to Merida. We start in 10 days. So I would love to know if you are having any problems finding accommodations? Also if there are any you particularly liked or disliked? Any other tips would also be appreciated.
 
Hello Everyone
Today was lovely walking from Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos. Gentle walking with very little uphill - very easy. Am staying at aubergue El Zaguan de la Plata and even though it is $15 so a bit more expensive it is pretty luxurious with towels included.
Yesterday was at Hotel Extremdura - would not stay there again. Adequate but souless and perfunctuary. Had wanted to stay at the albergue with the priest mentioned on here a few times but unfortunately was very ill with a migraine yesterday after sleeping on a too plump pillow the night before and could not manage to find it and just needed to be somewhere and sleep as quick as possible.
Happily woke up without the migraine this morning.
A steady group of us walking along the route and catching up with each other from time to time. Feels like relationships are developing in the gentle process that they do on the Way.
Anybody worrying about this route need not I think. Local people very accommodating and friendly. Most amenities easy to come by, albergues good and the fact the walking is pretty easy to begin with - days not too long and not a lot of uphills - makes it easy to train as you go and build your trail fitness.
I am tweeting if anyone is a Twitterer and wants to follow on @tangatahikoi
 
Hi there

My wife and I are also going to do the section from Seville to Merida. We start in 10 days. So I would love to know if you are having any problems finding accommodations? Also if there are any you particularly liked or disliked? Any other tips would also be appreciated.
Hi There
Accommodation easy to find and some choice also. My favourite albergue so far is Casa Le Reloj in Almaden de Plata. Excellent albergue with everything needed. This one in Fuente de Cantos is also very good. Accommodation has been very good so far.
You will enjoy your trip I'm sure.
Megg
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Perfect walking weather today for the 24kms to Zafra.
Staying in the only Albergue in town (I think?) and find myself challenged somewhat by the amount of rules and signs about rules. However I guess it gets busy and herding us pilgrims into some sort of order becomes difficult with all our competing individual needs and wants.
We are all squeezed into a room downstairs in bunks with the space between bunks less than the width of my shoulders whilst many more beds are upstairs with much more space.
It's interesting to think we have so much space between us while we walk but so little when we sleep.
I feel I'm being a little ungrateful here so will move on. The terrace is lovely, the sun is shining and all is well.
Megg
 
What about the beautiful Albergue San Francisco in the centre? Haven't heard anyone mention it for a while.
It had a great ambience.
 
What about the beautiful Albergue San Francisco in the centre? Haven't heard anyone mention it for a while.
It had a great ambience.
I think that is the Convent?
If so it is apparently closed.
Last night was clean and orderly but strict and we were asked to leave by8am. Ok for most but nice to not rush in mornings when possible and it is still not too hot.
Megg
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Tonight in Albergue El Carmen and very good it is too. Spacious old building with many period features and a smaller numbers of people in each room.
Easy walk into Villafranca de Los Barros.
Another albergue here that is also good with one of our 'Camino Family' lodged there and being well looked after.
Two people have developed knee trouble and are having to stop walking which is very unfortunate.
For those interested in such things I'm keeping an eye on my spending and so far have spent between $21 and $32 euros per day. I have breakfast each morning in a bar (coffee, fresh OJ and tostada), a simple meal out at night (not yet cooked for myself but will start to do so after Merida sometimes) albergue cost and lunch provisions (bread/cheese/tomato etc). Am sure it's possible to do it more cheaply of course by self catering but am enjoying the local food and interactions as I do so.
Megg
 
Megg:

I have a couple of questions regarding the Albergues.

Do you have to call ahead each day or reserve?

Do the Albergues have bedding (sheets of some kind, pillows, blankets?) or are you sleeping in sleeping bag?

Thank you and I wish you well on your journey?

Ultreya,
Joe
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
We have been calling ahead because we are now sort of traveling in convoy...about 8 or more of us seem to be meeting up most nights with our resident Spanish speaker booking for us. Mostly not essential to book yet but here today (inTorremeljia many more people I've not seen previously so perhaps the Way is getting busier?
Most towns have more than one option accommodation wise.

I've needed to use my sleeping bag only once but others are using theirs most night to increase warmth. Most albergues have one blanket per bed but one had none so far. I have a silk sleeping bag liner that I use with the provided blankets and if needed I can break out my sleeping bag too. Think it is a route that needs a sleeping bag.

All beds so far have a bottom sheet. You really need your own bag liner to use on the bed too.

Megg
 
We have been calling ahead because we are now sort of traveling in convoy...about 8 or more of us seem to be meeting up most nights with our resident Spanish speaker booking for us. Mostly not essential to book yet but here today (inTorremeljia many more people I've not seen previously so perhaps the Way is getting busier?
Most towns have more than one option accommodation wise.

I've needed to use my sleeping bag only once but others are using theirs most night to increase warmth. Most albergues have one blanket per bed but one had none so far. I have a silk sleeping bag liner that I use with the provided blankets and if needed I can break out my sleeping bag too. Think it is a route that needs a sleeping bag.

All beds so far have a bottom sheet. You really need your own bag liner to use on the bed too.

Megg


Thank you
 
One of our Camino Family, who is Spanish, rented a large very well appointed house in Merida and 9 of us are shared the cost and pleasure of staying in luxurious surroundings in central Merida. We had paella cooked by our lovely Spanish Camino sibling...feeling very lucky.
Tonight is the second night here. Felt the need of a bit if a rest and my friend who started with me in Seville needs to go back to work tomorrow so I decided to spend the last day here with her.
Tomorrow back on the Via but this time by myself. It already feels different and I'm aware of a sense of sadness as we have had such a lovely time together.
Megg
 
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Very long day for me from Merida to Alcuesar. Am very tired now. Staying in Casa de Misericordia religious albergue - very good, welcoming.
There is a brand new albergue and cafe/bar at El Carracalejo about 35 minutes before Aljucen. Stopped there for breakfast this morning. People here tonight stayed there and said it was very good.
Weather is amazing...
 
Have been feeling very sad and raw today after waking to the horrific news at home. I have family and many friends in Christchurch.
I feel very conflicted to be walking in such splendour and beauty at such a time.

However I am, and so can't help but be nourished in the doing. Lovely walking today from Alcuesar to Valdesalor. Municipal Albergue here quite new, very spacious and seems to have everything a pilgrim could need.
Weather utterly perfect...hot, but even for me not tooooo hot, occasional gentle and much appreciated breeze and not a cloud in the sky.
Megg
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
There is a brand new albergue and cafe/bar at El Carracalejo about 35 minutes before Aljucen. Stopped there for breakfast this morning. People here tonight stayed there and said it was very good.
That's good news that the albergue at El Carrascalejo has finally opened. It has been sitting there for several years, fresh and new and closed!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Hi Megg
Now you’re tantalising my tastebuds because I’m wondering what you chose to eat at El Rincon that was ‘excellent ‘.
Buen Camino
Annie
It was much like a lot of the other menus but just really well made. I had soup that was garlic, ham and egg and then a pork chop with chips - the chips were the best I've had not soggy and oily. The salad was good and we had a little desert of fruit and cream.
Was just better made than many of the meals I've had and enjoyed very much for the care taken.
Megg
 
Hi Megg,
( try again on the right thread!)
Thank you for posting while walking, love your posts.
We don’t start walking till 1 September so enjoy reading your progress so very much.
Hope your family and friends are well in Christchurch,
Take care,
Donna.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Megg, I just caught up with all of your updates. Your descriptions of both the route and your feelings along the Way have been precious. Buen Camino, and please keep us informed. Our weeks on the VdlP have been some of the best, despite many difficulties. We might even attempt a retracing a few stages later this year!
Mike.
 
Ok, bit of a hitch today. Was supposed to stay at aubergue El Cantara by the lake and the Spanish couple who we are walking with apparently tried to book but could not confirm it was open. I got a text from his wife saying she could not contact the 'owner' and so they were going onto Canaveral. So me and my little band of brothers went onto Canaveral too.
Long day 32+Kms but not so hot today and good cool breeze made for good walking.
The first section from Casar de Carceres to the road was wonderful, the road later less so but ok.
Albergue here in Canaveral is excellent. Spacious, great bathroom/showers, bedding provided so no need to unpack sleeping bag - really comfy. The bar 50 metres up the road provided the restorative Una Clara Grande and super tasty bar snacks with it so will eat there tonight on the basis that if the bar snacks are so good the food might also be good.
 
Megg, I have been following your reports, I am a week or more behind you on the route from Huelva, but I join the VDLP tomorrow when I reach Zafra. I had read about a very bad stretch between Cáceres and Casar de Cáceres with a scary bridge and tunnel crossing (due to the train construction project). Did you have to deal with that, or has the Camino been rerouted? Thanks for your help.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Hi Kaufer
No problems there at all. Very straight forward route. A bit of road walking but not too bad and the rest easy and pleasant.
You should have no problems. Definitely no bridge or tunnel.
Today from Casar de Carceres similar. A brand new road looks like it is very near finished and just needs the ribbon cutting but no cars on it at all. Route lovely up to the road round the lake then a bit of road walking but it's ok.
The albergue at El Cantara is another matter but Canaveral is only 10 kms on so not impossible although it does make for a long day.
I didn't actually try the number for El Cantara given in the thread above and am not sure what number the Spanish pilgrims were using so can't actually say it isn't open...but was problematic today so avoided.
Megg
 
Megg, I have been following your reports, I am a week or more behind you on the route from Huelva, but I join the VDLP tomorrow when I reach Zafra. I had read about a very bad stretch between Cáceres and Casar de Cáceres with a scary bridge and tunnel crossing (due to the train construction project). Did you have to deal with that, or has the Camino been rerouted? Thanks for your help.

Hi, Kaufer,
I think the scary bridge and tunnel crossing you are talking about is on the Sanabres before Lubian. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/terrifying-bridge-then-tunnel.60287/

The scary part out of Caceres to Casar de Caceres is that if you walk early in the morning on a weekday, the commuter and truck traffic is extremely heavy and extremely scary. There is a turnoff a few kms before Casar de Caceres that puts you on an agricultural track, but those kms alongside the road are among the worst. Be careful.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Hi, Kaufer,
I think the scary bridge and tunnel crossing you are talking about is on the Sanabres before Lubian. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/terrifying-bridge-then-tunnel.60287/

The scary part out of Caceres to Casar de Caceres is that if you walk early in the morning on a weekday, the commuter and truck traffic is extremely heavy and extremely scary. There is a turnoff a few kms before Casar de Caceres that puts you on an agricultural track, but those kms alongside the road are among the worst. Be careful.
 
Good for me to be aware of that too...thank you!
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Galisteo tonight. Good albergue, everything you need including towels which is always a pleasant extra.
I've left my phone charger at Canaveral so may be out of juice if I can't borrow another pilgrims charger.
Albergue at Oliva Plasencia definitely closed. We will do the 30 to Caparra Arch and then phone Hostel Asturias who will pick it us we are informed.
Walking today again lovely. Windy and cold to start but got hot later on. Called into Grimaldo but nothing open for coffee. Had lunch in Riolobos.
Bit of road walking but otherwise lovely day.
 
@tangata hikoi If I understood your last post correctly, you went through Riolobos in the middle of the day. Normally, a pilgrim would skip Rilobos unless they are spending the night there, because it definitely adds several kilometers and (as you mentioned) it adds a LOT of asphalt walking. I am mostly asking for future pilgrims. Was there a reason to take this detour? Thanks!
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
@tangata hikoi If I understood your last post correctly, you went through Riolobos in the middle of the day. Normally, a pilgrim would skip Rilobos unless they are spending the night there, because it definitely adds several kilometers and (as you mentioned) it adds a LOT of asphalt walking. I am mostly asking for future pilgrims. Was there a reason to take this detour? Thanks!

Maybe she heard that the new route takes you through a livestock farm. ;) I bet I spent at least 45 minutes plastered up against a fence while hundreds and hundreds of big cows and steers came up the hill. Of course the guy on the moto riding up at the rear told me, as they always do, “no hacen nada.” I KNOW that in my head, but I just cannot get comfortable walking forward with hundreds of horned animals walking towards me.
 
@tangata hikoi If I understood your last post correctly, you went through Riolobos in the middle of the day. Normally, a pilgrim would skip Rilobos unless they are spending the night there, because it definitely adds several kilometers and (as you mentioned) it adds a LOT of asphalt walking. I am mostly asking for future pilgrims. Was there a reason to take this detour? Thanks!

Yes, not essential to go there of course, but we had very little food and plenty of time. Nothing open in Canaveral when we left - only one bar in the morning which seemed odd - we even thought we were not going to get breakfast till we saw it on the edge of town. Grimaldo closed so we went in for some food.
Very lovely walk down the ridge into town but much less pleasant getting out again!
 
Today 30kms to Arch Caparra...what a wonderful sight that is...was so looking forward to seeing it and it didn't disappoint.
Walking from Galisteo ( not to be missed!) to Carabosco is all along the road - not great but needs must I guess.
However the next section from Carabosco to the Arch is utterly glorious! So beautiful, very easy walking, a little uphill but not hard and mostly perfect beautiful treed meadows with birdsong and flowers.
I'm really noticing the hills getting closer and closer. For many days they have been what seems like a great distance away but today they are feeling much closer - including the large mountain with snow on it in the far distance which is, I think, north east of us.

Collected from the Arch by Hostel Asturias and very comfortable here with good food and pleasant hosts.
We are choosing to go back to the Arch and walk from there rather than starting 1.5 Kms from here and missing out that 8 to10 kms or so.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Travelled back to the Arch this morning and set off again to Aldeanueva del Camino. Short day of 20kms after some longer days since Merida.
Again gentle lovely countryside with a small amount of road walking.
Staying in the very small albergue here - 4 beds of somewhat dubious quality but a quaint and pleasant little home for the night.
Quite a few other pilgrims in Casa de la Abuela which I visited and us very well appointed with a very helpful and kind host who drove me to a nearby shop to buy a new charger for my phone - and I am not even his customer. So generous!
 
Hi Megg, that is great to know that the Hostal Asturias will pick up and deliver back to the Caparra Arch. Did they charge much for the service? And did you have to wait long for the pickup?
Thanks, Daniel
 
Morning Daniel
No charge for collection from the Arch. And didn't wait too long. It's about 10km to the hotel.
They don't take you back. We got a taxi which cost $20. You don't have to go back to the Arch as the Way is about 1.5/2 km from hotel but we wanted to do the route from the Arch so paid for taxi to return us.
If you don't go back to the Arch you reduce the Way by about 8-10km
Megg
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
In Calzar de Bejar in nice albergue with about 8 or 10 of us.
Walk to Banos is almost all along the road or very close by and so not brilliant but after Banos we are back to much better walking.
We crossed over into Castilla y Leon after Banos and landscape is actually different...trees a bit different, not so many oaks.
 
Last night stayed in Albergue Alba Soraya and dinner was cooked by our lovely host Manuela, delicious nutritious fare for us hungry pilgrims. Very lovely albergue.
We were 11 around the table.

The five women Peregrinos all donned headscarves of some description and we had our photo taken which I tweeted to symbolise our support and love for the families of those massacred, the people of Christchurch NZ and for those of the Muslim faith more widely. Many twitter folk have responded warmly from around the world.

In an email to me one of my close friends has said ' ...alongside the appalling and stunning grief something so beautiful and redemptive I'd unfolding...an unprecedented outpouring of love...' The response to this horror from many ordinary folk fills me with hope.

It's hard to know how to show support but I think it is very important to do so and I'm thankful to my fellow pilgrim women for joining me in this small act of solidarity.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Albergue at Fuenterroble was lovely as so many have said previously. A warm welcome received.
One of the pilgrims made an exceptionally good soup for dinner and that was followed by salad, sardines and some bbq'd meat also. We ate very well.

Walk today very long with quite a bit of road walking too but we made it to Morille and are in the very good and simple Municipal Albergue and very grateful for the comfy beds. It's pretty fabulous this network of simple accommodation that enables us to be here and have what we need as we walk.
Tomorrow Salamanca and the halfway mark to Santiago for me - although I'm carrying on after Santiago.
 
Two nights in Salamanca... lovely city. Staying in a very cheap but very good hotel near the Plaza Mayor. Great value.
Really felt the need of the rest. My body fine but tired and my feet were tired too. Starting to feel refreshed somewhat and ready for the day tomorrow.
Have decided to cheat and will walk the 16 kms to Calzada de Valdunciel and then bus to El Cuba. Just can't face the 20+ Kms beside the highway.
Glad to have stopped an extra day here both for the rest to my body but also having time to see some of the loveliness here.
 
Two nights in Salamanca... lovely city. Staying in a very cheap but very good hotel near the Plaza Mayor. Great value.
Really felt the need of the rest. My body fine but tired and my feet were tired too. Starting to feel refreshed somewhat and ready for the day tomorrow.
Have decided to cheat and will walk the 16 kms to Calzada de Valdunciel and then bus to El Cuba. Just can't face the 20+ Kms beside the highway.
Glad to have stopped an extra day here both for the rest to my body but also having time to see some of the loveliness here.

What is the hotel?
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Hostal Concejo in plaza Libertad
 
Two nights in Salamanca... lovely city. Staying in a very cheap but very good hotel near the Plaza Mayor. Great value.
Really felt the need of the rest. My body fine but tired and my feet were tired too. Starting to feel refreshed somewhat and ready for the day tomorrow.
Have decided to cheat and will walk the 16 kms to Calzada de Valdunciel and then bus to El Cuba. Just can't face the 20+ Kms beside the highway.
Glad to have stopped an extra day here both for the rest to my body but also having time to see some of the loveliness here.
Salamanca is great! Enjoy! I hope the weather is good to you. The Plaza Mayor is said to be the biggest in Spain, even bigger than in Madrid.
 
The weather is superb, just perfect for walking...thank you
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Yes I saw them last September on the start of my walk ( did Mérida to Zamora). There is so much in Mérida to discover, but last September was so hot!!
 
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Full disclosure: I walked the 16kms from Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel and then got the bus to El Cuba...feeling a little guilty but after speaking to some who walked it less so. 20kms along the highway with a punishing cold head wind. Not much fun.

We are staying in Albergue F & Y on the recommendation in Gerald Kelly's guide app which says 'excellent report's' but I think the spark might have gone out of any fire that was here. It's ok but not great, our host is a woman of advanced years but I real 'welcome'. The other hostel in town send to have a meal provided by the host which by reports from others is very good.

A sign on the wall says for sale so perhaps new owners will breathe new life into the Albergue when they come.

Feeling quite sad to not be with 'my boys' today after walking with them since Merida. So enjoyed their company. Will make new friends I know and am here with three lovely people I've been alongside since the beginning.
 
Shame to hear about Albergue F &Y. It was up for sale last Sept when I stayed there. We had a meal in a bar in the square. The food was fine but the bullfighting on the TV wasn't great for me!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Shame to hear about Albergue F &Y. It was up for sale last Sept when I stayed there. We had a meal in a bar in the square. The food was fine but the bullfighting on the TV wasn't great for me!

Yes, I suspect it's been a good place as photos abound but is a bit depleted now. The bar does meals from 8pm but it's too late for us here and we've had some food from the shop which is fine.

It's a curious this TV's in cafe/bar and restaurants here. I've yet to go into a place that doesn't have a TV on. Today 3 murders took place as I tried to drink my cafe con leche. Impossible to avoid as the TV was on really LOUD.

I wonder if it is like this in the houses too?
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
El Cubo to Zamora today, 32 Kms. Pleasant walking. Left at 6am as I was awake and wanted to do some walking in the dark. Was lovely enjoying the sunrise. In Zamora by midday.

I walked into San Marciel which is a slight detour and worth it for the little bar on the main road had a coffee and orange juice there. I was too early for the bar in Villanueva which opens at 10am.

Lots of police and security here in Zamora which is a little disconcerting walking around and feeling watched. It turns out the Prime Minister/President is here and whatever is happening is literally around the corner from the Albergue.

Albergue pleasant with everything needed. We seem to be about 10 people here tonight. Two finishing here and the rest going on.
 
Few days since I posted walked from Zamora to Granja de Moreruela 41kms and was tired but ok when arrived. Just me and one other in Albergue.

Then onto Tarbara yesterday. Easy walking but lots of gravel/metal roads. The best part was around the river Esla...quite lovely there.
Stayed at El Robles but wouldn't recommend. Shower nozzle snapped, bathroom door wouldn't shut/lock and light blew out...decided it was all a bit Heath Robinson! Couple of pretty good bars in the town with good tapas.

However have unfortunately been forced to stop today as a niggling pain in my right foot has become too much to ignore. The top surface of my foot on the outer edge is a inflamed and painful. Has been like it for a while but maybe the 41 km day was just a step too far. Guess it is just overuse but getting hard to walk so time for a rest.

Have taken a bus Mombuey and will rest one, possibly 2 days and see how it feels.

Weather fine but unusually pretty cloudy.
In Tabara last night I think 6 pilgrims. 2 Spanish, 1 Dutch, 1 French, 1 Belgium and me.
 
Few days since I posted walked from Zamora to Granja de Moreruela 41kms and was tired but ok when arrived. Just me and one other in Albergue.

Then onto Tarbara yesterday. Easy walking but lots of gravel/metal roads. The best part was around the river Esla...quite lovely there.
Stayed at El Robles but wouldn't recommend. Shower nozzle snapped, bathroom door wouldn't shut/lock and light blew out...decided it was all a bit Heath Robinson! Couple of pretty good bars in the town with good tapas.

However have unfortunately been forced to stop today as a niggling pain in my right foot has become too much to ignore. The top surface of my foot on the outer edge is a inflamed and painful. Has been like it for a while but maybe the 41 km day was just a step too far. Guess it is just overuse but getting hard to walk so time for a rest.

Have taken a bus Mombuey and will rest one, possibly 2 days and see how it feels.

Weather fine but unusually pretty cloudy.
In Tabara last night I think 6 pilgrims. 2 Spanish, 1 Dutch, 1 French, 1 Belgium and me.
@tangata hikoi, do hope you rest up and your foot heals. Sound like a couple of days rest are essential.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Few days since I posted walked from Zamora to Granja de Moreruela 41kms and was tired but ok when arrived. Just me and one other in Albergue.

Then onto Tarbara yesterday. Easy walking but lots of gravel/metal roads. The best part was around the river Esla...quite lovely there.
Stayed at El Robles but wouldn't recommend. Shower nozzle snapped, bathroom door wouldn't shut/lock and light blew out...decided it was all a bit Heath Robinson! Couple of pretty good bars in the town with good tapas.

However have unfortunately been forced to stop today as a niggling pain in my right foot has become too much to ignore. The top surface of my foot on the outer edge is a inflamed and painful. Has been like it for a while but maybe the 41 km day was just a step too far. Guess it is just overuse but getting hard to walk so time for a rest.

Have taken a bus Mombuey and will rest one, possibly 2 days and see how it feels.

Weather fine but unusually pretty cloudy.
In Tabara last night I think 6 pilgrims. 2 Spanish, 1 Dutch, 1 French, 1 Belgium and me.
Echoing lainey’s good wishes. I hope you find that the rest is just what you need. It is always a hard decision to make, even for us “adults” who know in our brains that we need to stop, but are just pulled by this force that says keep walking. Thinking of you, Laurie
 
Echoing lainey’s good wishes. I hope you find that the rest is just what you need. It is always a hard decision to make, even for us “adults” who know in our brains that we need to stop, but are just pulled by this force that says keep walking. Thinking of you, Laurie

Thank you Laurie and Lainey, much appreciate your kind thoughts. I almost walked this morning but fortunately the 'adult' in my brain took charge!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I am wondering if anyone knows if Casa Anita in Santa Croya is still open, the stage after Tábara? A couple of messages online appear to suggest that it is closed?
 
I am wondering if anyone knows if Casa Anita in Santa Croya is still open, the stage after Tábara? A couple of messages online appear to suggest that it is closed?
Yup, closed. Last time I was there, probably five years ago now, they were trying to broaden their business by also having summer camps for kids to learn English or something like that, so maybe they just couldn’t make a living. The municipal in Santa Marta, a stone’s throw away, must either be new or reformed or enlarged, because it gets reviews that tell me it is a very different place than what was there a few years ago.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Another slightly off camino option is what I did when I walked the Levante, went to a nice 1 or 2 star hotel with my French buddies, in Carmazana de Tera. No short stages for those guys!

Laurie, many thanks for that great suggestion! Looking at Gronze would I be right in thinking that the turn off for Carmazana is about another 10k from Santa Marta? Although your log suggests only 26k from Tábara to Carmazana?
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Laurie, many thanks for that great suggestion! Looking at Gronze would I be right in thinking that the turn off for Carmazana is about another 10k from Santa Marta? Although your log suggests only 26k from Tábara to Carmazana?

Some Spanish chaps told me yesterday they are staying there tonight and highly recommended it. It is a very short detour off the route and easy to see on Google map
 
Thanks both Laurie and @tangata hikoi , it is always so useful to have another option.
Went thru Santa Marta last year,,,, don't forget to see the oldest statue of Santiago at the church,, to get to Carmazana last year, ,stayed in hotel there,,, but then the next day to Rionegro Del Puente,,, and the fantastic " me Gusta comer" just to the left of the Albergue,,, the best food and value on any Camino!!!
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
I’m planning on cycling the VDLP beginning mid-April. Are you seeing many bicigrinos along The Way?
 
I’m planning on cycling the VDLP beginning mid-April. Are you seeing many bicigrinos along The Way?
There are a few, perhaps one or two a day. Have only stayed in two albergues with bicigrinos but they do a lot more miles each day of course
Megg
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Can anyone who has had time to sightsee in Sevilla, tell me if it is worth buying a ticket for El Alcuzar in advance or just turn up ? I have a note in my vdlp file that you can buy a ticket on the day to see the gardens, but maybe I have it wrong? I only have a spare afternoon in Sevilla at the start of my walk and thought about a bit of sightseeing.
 
Can anyone who has had time to sightsee in Sevilla, tell me if it is worth buying a ticket for El Alcuzar in advance or just turn up ? I have a note in my vdlp file that you can buy a ticket on the day to see the gardens, but maybe I have it wrong? I only have a spare afternoon in Sevilla at the start of my walk and thought about a bit of sightseeing.

Hi Lainey
The queue for El Alcuesar was huge. I think if you want to go prepurchase online is the way to go then you don't have wait in the very long line
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Megg more important question, how is your foot?

Foot is not great Lainey. Could walk but is a bit painful and would create more problems in the long run so think I will take a rest possibly for a week and then return to the walk hopefully without the problem.
I was talking with a friend who had what sounds like a very similar difficulty and hers abated quickly once she stopped walking and then laced her shoes in a different way. Am hoping mine might respond to the same action.
Thinking about where to spend a week 'resting' which will be much harder for me than walking everyday!
Megg
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I'm in Mombuey. I think I've worked out that the problem might be my shoe being to tight over the top of my foot. I've spoken to a friend who had the same problem solved with a few days rest and relacing her shoe to reduce the pressure on the top of the foot and another walker here today has said the same thing happened to him.
If that is so I will try changing the lacing on my shoe and doing a short day tomorrow to Asturianas and hope that it improves from there...if not I'll go somewhere for a rest.
Fingers crossed🤞
 
I'm in Mombuey. I think I've worked out that the problem might be my shoe being to tight over the top of my foot. I've spoken to a friend who had the same problem solved with a few days rest and relacing her shoe to reduce the pressure on the top of the foot and another walker here today has said the same thing happened to him.
If that is so I will try changing the lacing on my shoe and doing a short day tomorrow to Asturianas and hope that it improves from there...if not I'll go somewhere for a rest.
Fingers crossed🤞
Hi Megg
Thinking of you with ‘that’pain in your right foot ..
Just to add my 2cents. If the reason for the soreness ‘isn’t’ any of those mentioned above - check between those two toes. IF you’ve developed corns from the pressure of squeezing that section too much - you need to have them taken care of .
The pain you describe finished me on the Le Puy in 2016. I had my pack carried the last 7 days into Sjpdp and decided not to continue. I couldn’t bear anything touching the top of my foot. So I took myself off by bus for a break in San Sebastián and went to a clinic. Feet were in a mess as I’d not known anything about corns and hadn’t used the corn pads correctly. They can burn away your skin as well as the corn if used incorrectly.. after returning home ., my podiatrist advised never using those corn pads ., just get to a ‘feet’ person/specialist/podiatrist or clinic and have then attended to. In between the toes is just too hard to see and work in yourself.
I hope it’s only the lacing that is the culprit for yours. The rest should do the trick.

Buen Camino
Annie
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Hi Megg
Thinking of you with ‘that’pain in your right foot ..
Just to add my 2cents. If the reason for the soreness ‘isn’t’ any of those mentioned above - check between those two toes. IF you’ve developed corns from the pressure of squeezing that section too much - you need to have them taken care of .
The pain you describe finished me on the Le Puy in 2016. I had my pack carried the last 7 days into Sjpdp and decided not to continue. I couldn’t bear anything touching the top of my foot. So I took myself off by bus for a break in San Sebastián and went to a clinic. Feet were in a mess as I’d not known anything about corns and hadn’t used the corn pads correctly. They can burn away your skin as well as the corn if used incorrectly.. after returning home ., my podiatrist advised never using those corn pads ., just get to a ‘feet’ person/specialist/podiatrist or clinic and have then attended to. In between the toes is just too hard to see and work in yourself.
I hope it’s only the lacing that is the culprit for yours. The rest should do the trick.

Buen Camino
Annie
Don’t want to take this too far off topic, since I don’t want to go on about foot problems on such a nice Vdlp thread, and it looks like Megg may have found the answer for her. I have had that problem of too tight lacing across the top, it is one of those “oh duh” kinds of problems, but it is great that the solution is easy! But if what you have are corns between the toes, it means that the toe box of your shoes is too narrow. I know you have figured this out, Annie, but for others, the corns are formed by pressure. I finally listened to reason (meaning DaveBugg) last year, got a pair of Altras (probably the widest toe box ever), and had no corns for the first time in 7 or 8 caminos! Hoping for a repeat in June. Buen camino, Laurie
 
Thanks everyone, it's definitely not corns as I know what they are, I've got one on my little toe that I have to attend to from time to time and so would know a corn if it developed.
Hopefully today will confirm the issue and mean I can sort it...
 
Megg,

I am in Galisteo. Trying to plan tomorrow. How did you arrange to be picked up at the Arch? Did you call day before and when you arrived? How much was the stay? Did it include food? Anything you can tell me will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Last edited:
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Hi joe, Can’t believe you’re that far along already. I’m linking you to Gronze, which shows that actually you can walk to the hostal if you want. There is a very well marked turn off that I saw this year beyond the arch. Gronze also gives the phone number so you can call and reserve. Food is reported to be good. Buen camino!

 
Hi Joe
If you decide to call rather than walk the number is displayed frequently along the route and you can phone when you get to the Arch. There's a bit to see at the Arch so a worthwhile wait.
We coordinated with others and when the van - 6 seater - came there were quite a few of us and they did a couple of trips.

The food was good for us and it felt like a good/comfortable place to stay. Probably doubly good as we were about 12 pilgrims which made for a pleasant evening.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
I'm in Mombuey. I think I've worked out that the problem might be my shoe being to tight over the top of my foot. I've spoken to a friend who had the same problem solved with a few days rest and relacing her shoe to reduce the pressure on the top of the foot and another walker here today has said the same thing happened to him.
If that is so I will try changing the lacing on my shoe and doing a short day tomorrow to Asturianas and hope that it improves from there...if not I'll go somewhere for a rest.
Fingers crossed🤞

Hope you have solved the issue. I have had that problem, particularly with higher hiking shoes. Hoping you have had a good day today without pain and are in ASturianos, where I believe the albergue is in the polideportivo, is that right? Buen camino to you, Laurie
 
Hope you have solved the issue. I have had that problem, particularly with higher hiking shoes. Hoping you have had a good day today without pain and are in ASturianos, where I believe the albergue is in the polideportivo, is that right? Buen camino to you, Laurie
Hi Laurie
My shoes are not boots so it's not the higher ankle bit but the across the foot tightness. I did relace them and I think it has helped. It's still painful but not so much that every step is very difficult.

I got to Asturianas about 12 midday and had a rest and bite to eat and then decided to continue the next 14 kms so am in Pueblo de Sanabria. My foot is pretty sore but am sure overnight with rest will continue to improve.

I did go up to the Polideporttivo and all was locked up including the bar but as I was coming back down the road a man on a moped was coming up and indicated that he would open it - I think that is what he was telling me? - so I guessed the bush telegraph had been in action and the locals had seen me going up and let him know someone might want the Albergue.

The walk today was one of the best yet. The landscape is lovely and again quite different from what we've seen so far; trees seem a bit more stunted, some scrubby sort of areas also with lower shrubs and lots of subtle colour.

The rain(and hail) came down about 3pm for about an hour and made the colours sharper and everything glow wonderfully. The smell of the rain on the hot earth was glorious...so that took my mind off my foot somewhat.

Crossing my fingers that things continue to improve footwise.

Megg
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Walked from Pueblo de Sanabria to Lubian today. After yesterday's lovely walking I found it less than lovely today. The best part is the last few kms into Lubian.

From Requejo de Sanabria it was road walking along the highway for 4 or 5 kms. A local woman at the bar confirmed the need to walk along the road. I'd read various guides and threads about the dreaded tunnel etc and got myself very confused by all the info. However walked up the road - not especially nice but not unsafe as sufficient space in the side and the road was not super busy - and eventually saw up ahead the two parallel roads and the tunnel entrances into which they go into/come from. Before this I'd seen two notices saying in three languages that the route was closed and the arrow pointing up the road so had continued along it. Then, as the roads with the blue side rails were looming up ahead I saw another arrow point left off the highway and I could sort of see it would likely provide a way forward. So, not entirely sure, I took this route and it went under the tunnel roads and was fine.

After that I followed the highway down the other side and it crossed over the main highway via a roadbridge onto a little used road and eventually back under the highway and onto the nicest part of the walking today into Lubian.

It is all a bit if a mess and not really pleasant for the most part. Lots and lots of workmen and trusks/ machinery but I felt safe enough.

The Albergue here in Lubian looks almost full. Lots of new people I've not seen before. Maybe new starters or people who are traveling slower perhaps. Workmen are here too and seem to be putting in a second bathroom perhaps. Only one toilet and one shower - all in the same room - for what looks like 16 to 18 people so morning will be interesting!

Foot ok...still improving but I've definitely slowed up a lot. Probably not a bad thing.
 

Most read last week in this forum

I am posting daily blog style updates on Facebook that anyone can see and follow: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.8095032397178476&type=3 There are also video format stories visible on...
Hello, First time posting but as Google hasn't been helpful I was hoping others here might be able to help with an odd query. I am considering the Via de la Plata from Seville via Sanabres as my...
Hey folks. I started the Mozarabe from Almeria and took time out in Salamanca to do a 3 week Spanish course in USAL. The course was fine. 4 hours a day. For the first week we had an excellent...
Y’all, one week from today I get on the plane to fly to Sevilla. Growing anxiety. I will start El Camino on April 6. I hope to report progress here and continue to look for advice. How does...
Does anybody have any good ideas about secure carparking whilst doing the Vía de la Plata from Sevilla to Merida please?

❓How to ask a question

How to post a new question on the Camino Forum.

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Camino Updates on YouTube

Camino Conversations

Most downloaded Resources

This site is run by Ivar at

in Santiago de Compostela.
This site participates in the Amazon Affiliate program, designed to provide a means for Ivar to earn fees by linking to Amazon
Official Camino Passport (Credential) | 2024 Camino Guides
Back
Top