- Time of past OR future Camino
- Many in the past and, God willing; more to come
@kirkie, this is for you
It’s alright, this is a one-off; I’m not starting again.
I’ve posted this separately, rather than append my ‘Burgos to Leon’ thread, which has come to a natural close.
I’ve passed through Leon several times, but never taken the opportunity to spend an entire day here; and I have some recommendations.
Firstly as to accommodation. I do appreciate that this may not fit with everyone’s budget; but I chose to lodge at the Hospederia Monastica Pax. Basically a very good hotel integrated in the Benadictine monastery. There is an albergue also. My room, booked as a single, is a very well appointed twin of a high standard at about €52/night including a really good breakfast.
The secular attraction of Leon is the Barrio Húmedo; an extensive collection of bars and restaurants which deserve exploring. el Rincón del Gaucho (have the cangrejo) and Jamón Jamón (have what you’re given, the clues in the name) are personal favourites.
Pick your night and location with care. On Tuesday evening the Barrio Húmedo is the Barrio semi-seco as it’s their day off.
If you’re here at the weekend and you choose not to take my lodging advice, pack earplugs. The Humido is busy, and noisy, very noisy, through to 3 or 4 AM.
If you’re on Camino, pass through Leon and don’t visit the Cathedral, you might be accused of missing the point. The luminescence through the massive stained glass is outstanding and the free audio guide gives an excellent explanation as to how the subjects depicted are specifically aligned with the changing direction of the light from east through to west so as to show spiritual progress towards resurrection and redemption and the north and south walls have deliberately different colours accordingly. Fascinating. And beautiful.
The adjoined museum has a world-class collection of religious carving and clothing. Bear with me; it’s not my thing either, but I was enthralled. I could spot a San Sebastián or San Roque at 100 meters in half-light now.
The museo de San Isidoro has (April 22) got the builders in and they’re clearly on a day-rate as progress is glacial. Unless you’ve a burning desire to see your 20th alleged Holy Grail; not much else is accessible; I’d skip it.
Not entirely prompted by the pubs being shut, I thought I’d give my liver a rest and throw myself into the rare opportunity which the PAX offers.
If you nip up the back passage (steady on there) at the appointed time you can join the monastic community for any or all of the daily liturgy.
I’m not Roman Catholic; but so far as classic services go; if you can play it I can hum along. I’m familiar with my King James and (to the surprise of many) know the Book of Common Prayer Morning Prayer and Evensong by rote. I was well educated before I strayed. Quite a bit.
So I set the alarm for dark o’clock. (My iphone queried the decision repeatedly, artificial intelligence my arse.) [I’m really sorry, I’m trying to be serious, but it’s been a long day and I’ve been standing up every 5 minutes since 0600]
Anyway at 0620 I was stood outside the door of the private chapel for 0630 matins. At 0629 and a bit, the door opened and I was admitted to find that these aren’t monks, they’re lady monks and there are a fair few of them. They did a good job of hiding their surprise that anyone had turned up; and away we went.
They were delightful. Slightly unfamiliar with the somewhat unnecessary use of microphones they did tap them quite a lot (Anyone remember the ‘Wheeltappers’ and Shunters’’? No? Just me then)
I’m sufficiently fluent in Spanish and the Monjas have excellent diction; even without that, the cadence of the creed, Lord’s Prayer, benediction (stop showing off David) will be familiar to many.
Somewhat carried away I’ve kept it up and done the lot: Matins, Lauds, Tercia, Sexta, Nona, Vísperas y Bendición and had the pilgrims blessing. In the singular.
One of the nuns smiled at me at Tercia; at Nona I got a small round of applause and if they’d had a spare wimple in XXL by the time we got to the Pilgrims Blessing I’m fairly sure I’d have got the job.
What a great pleasure and extraordinary experience.
I did manage to slip out for a quick pie and a pint half-way through.
Anyway; clearly you don’t have to do the lot; your debit column might not be so extensive as mine for one thing; but if you make the effort, you’ll be welcomed.
Make a day of it, the Camino’s not just head-down ploughing on to Santiago.
It’s alright, this is a one-off; I’m not starting again.
I’ve posted this separately, rather than append my ‘Burgos to Leon’ thread, which has come to a natural close.
I’ve passed through Leon several times, but never taken the opportunity to spend an entire day here; and I have some recommendations.
Firstly as to accommodation. I do appreciate that this may not fit with everyone’s budget; but I chose to lodge at the Hospederia Monastica Pax. Basically a very good hotel integrated in the Benadictine monastery. There is an albergue also. My room, booked as a single, is a very well appointed twin of a high standard at about €52/night including a really good breakfast.
The secular attraction of Leon is the Barrio Húmedo; an extensive collection of bars and restaurants which deserve exploring. el Rincón del Gaucho (have the cangrejo) and Jamón Jamón (have what you’re given, the clues in the name) are personal favourites.
Pick your night and location with care. On Tuesday evening the Barrio Húmedo is the Barrio semi-seco as it’s their day off.
If you’re here at the weekend and you choose not to take my lodging advice, pack earplugs. The Humido is busy, and noisy, very noisy, through to 3 or 4 AM.
If you’re on Camino, pass through Leon and don’t visit the Cathedral, you might be accused of missing the point. The luminescence through the massive stained glass is outstanding and the free audio guide gives an excellent explanation as to how the subjects depicted are specifically aligned with the changing direction of the light from east through to west so as to show spiritual progress towards resurrection and redemption and the north and south walls have deliberately different colours accordingly. Fascinating. And beautiful.
The adjoined museum has a world-class collection of religious carving and clothing. Bear with me; it’s not my thing either, but I was enthralled. I could spot a San Sebastián or San Roque at 100 meters in half-light now.
The museo de San Isidoro has (April 22) got the builders in and they’re clearly on a day-rate as progress is glacial. Unless you’ve a burning desire to see your 20th alleged Holy Grail; not much else is accessible; I’d skip it.
Not entirely prompted by the pubs being shut, I thought I’d give my liver a rest and throw myself into the rare opportunity which the PAX offers.
If you nip up the back passage (steady on there) at the appointed time you can join the monastic community for any or all of the daily liturgy.
I’m not Roman Catholic; but so far as classic services go; if you can play it I can hum along. I’m familiar with my King James and (to the surprise of many) know the Book of Common Prayer Morning Prayer and Evensong by rote. I was well educated before I strayed. Quite a bit.
So I set the alarm for dark o’clock. (My iphone queried the decision repeatedly, artificial intelligence my arse.) [I’m really sorry, I’m trying to be serious, but it’s been a long day and I’ve been standing up every 5 minutes since 0600]
Anyway at 0620 I was stood outside the door of the private chapel for 0630 matins. At 0629 and a bit, the door opened and I was admitted to find that these aren’t monks, they’re lady monks and there are a fair few of them. They did a good job of hiding their surprise that anyone had turned up; and away we went.
They were delightful. Slightly unfamiliar with the somewhat unnecessary use of microphones they did tap them quite a lot (Anyone remember the ‘Wheeltappers’ and Shunters’’? No? Just me then)
I’m sufficiently fluent in Spanish and the Monjas have excellent diction; even without that, the cadence of the creed, Lord’s Prayer, benediction (stop showing off David) will be familiar to many.
Somewhat carried away I’ve kept it up and done the lot: Matins, Lauds, Tercia, Sexta, Nona, Vísperas y Bendición and had the pilgrims blessing. In the singular.
One of the nuns smiled at me at Tercia; at Nona I got a small round of applause and if they’d had a spare wimple in XXL by the time we got to the Pilgrims Blessing I’m fairly sure I’d have got the job.
What a great pleasure and extraordinary experience.
I did manage to slip out for a quick pie and a pint half-way through.
Anyway; clearly you don’t have to do the lot; your debit column might not be so extensive as mine for one thing; but if you make the effort, you’ll be welcomed.
Make a day of it, the Camino’s not just head-down ploughing on to Santiago.
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