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Levante walked in April, May 2015

nalod

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2011, Finnesterre 2011,Le Puy to SJPDP 2011& 2012,Via de la Plata,Sambrasa 2012, Mozarabe 2013, Portugees 2013.PartNorde 2011, VDPL 2014,St-Guilhem 2014.Espalion-Roncesvalles 2014.Levante2015
#1
Hello I may add to this post over the next few days. Just back, started in Valencia on April 16th got to Zamora on May 14th. Fast train to Ourense on Friday 15 th (morning) started walking straight from the train station in Ourence (no problems this time) arrived in Santiago Monday May 18th.

Overall impressions. Big Skies, hot, loads and loads of Poppies, wild-flowers, ants - never saw as many ants in my entire life. Hit a heatwave for about three days 36 degree in the shade but there was no shade.

Don't leave without Laurie's notes and the Amigos book, I had the English version, tore out pages from Zamora onwards and left the separate maps at home. Then on a daily basis tore out the pages for the day ahead put them in my shorts pocket along with a page of Laurie's notes.

No rain for my trip, got soaked once my an irrigation system. Never used my camel back. A one litre bottle plus half litre bottle fine. Pack weight 9.4 kg without food and water. Generally wherever I had breakfast filled my water bottles with cold water. Favourite breakfast tostadas con tomato with acedo and cafe con leche e 1.60 to 3.60. The best menu del dia's of any Camino I have been on. Not been able to eat till 9 or 8.30 at earliest was a bit of a nuisance, especially if you were staying in Albergue. Watching the Champions League in a Spanish Cafe is a joy to behold.

First few days out of Valencia very urban and industrial, surface very hard on legs and hips, do not do the stages as per amigos book. I broke the first day by staying in Silla, Pension Puerto e18. Take it very easy for the first four days I would have got shin splits if I didn't.

I did stay in the much criticised municipal Albergue in Higueruela, myself and my Danish walking companion found it fine, got the keys in Hostal Posada which was booked out, nice meal there. Looking at comments book in Albergue people were complaining about no toilet paper, any Pilgrim who has walked for more than one day should have toilet paper in a waterproof bag in their back pocket, spare me!!.

The Hostal that Laurie recommended in La Ronda is now closed, I stayed in Hotel Juanuto for 28.30 near the old Hostal but found out afterwards you can stay in local Bull Ring which my friend said was fine.

Careful leaving San Clemente, Laurie warns of bad marking for some reason that was not our problem. Loads of brilliant arrows. This is what happened to us. I stayed in The Albergue but my walking companion stayed in Milan 1. I meet him there in the moring we saw a yellow arrow near Milan 1 and followed it. The walk should have been San Clemente to Las Pedrones but we followed arrows which brought us to Alberca de Zancara which meant road walking to Las Pedrones an extra 8 to 10 km, we abandoned the arrows in Alberca de Zancara, two sides of a triangle instead of one. Did we accidentally go on the Surreste. Any expatiation anyone? DSC_0891 (640x428).jpg

Not impressed with Arevalo. Hostal now e30, after I booked in and paid I asked about food, this was around 2 pm. There was a communion on, Restraunte fully booked they would not even serve me a plate at the bar, as possibly the only resident there I found their attitude terrible. The entire town dispensed with Menu Delario (e10) instead special menu e22-28. I eat better meals for 8 euro. Would not stay in this town again on Weekend. This was Sunday. The bar Victoria is excellent Pilgrim friendly but does not do full meals.

Many great acts of kindness along the way, one place which is fairly new is a must, it is in Toro ,Bar Restraunte La Coleginta, you will probably come across it on the way in. I would eat there again instead of the Pension Zamora I stayed in, which was ok. The Monastery of Sancti Spiritus look good but could not get anyone to answer the bell at 3.30 someone said to come back at 5, but I was too tired.

I had no problem from Toro to Zamora. Turned right at the quarry followed the arrows all the way. There is one blind arrow on a little concrete building, you will only see it if you turn left and go away from the river. I arrived in Zamora at the bridge from the opposite end to the Via de la Plata route.

I don't really speak Spanish, got a bit frustrated now and again(especially when I wanted to give out about something) but overall no problem.

Outstanding meal of any of the Camino I walked was the pilgrim Menu for 9.50 in Milan I in San Clemente.

Tried once to use the off line GPS thing I downloaded to my phone, found it a total waste of time could not even read the screen in the strong sun.

One thing about the Amigo guide book that drove me crazy was the way they have laid out historical information about the towns. You are in the middle of directions for navigating through the town. You are getting lost you have gone down the first two streets they have mentioned then a few paragraphs of history then another street. AlL directions should be grouped together. A separate little section on history etc.

As I said in beginning I may add to this over the next few days.

Also editing my photos and will have a special section on my website in 10 days or less.
 
Last edited:

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KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#2
Hello I may add to this post over the next few days. Just back, Started in Valencia on April 16th got to Zamora on May 14th. Fast train to Ourense on Friday 15 th (morning) started walking straight from the train station in Ourence (no problems this time) arrived in Santiago Monday May 18th.

Overall impressions. Big Skies, hot, loads and loads of Poppies, wild-flowers, ants - never saw as many ants in my entire life. Hit a heatwave for about three days 36 degree in the shade but there was no shade.

Don't leave without Laurie's notes and the Amigos book, I had the English version, tore out pages from Zamora onwards and left the separate maps at home. Then on a daily basis tore out the pages for the day ahead put them in my shorts pocket along with a page of Laurie's notes.

No rain for my trip, got soaked once my an irrigation system. Never used my camel back. A one litre bottle plus half litre bottle fine. Pack weight 9.4 kg without food and water. Generally whenever I had breakfast filled my water bottles with cold water. Favourite breakfast tostadas con tomato with acedo and cafe con leche e 1.60 to 3.60. The best menu del dia's of any Camino I have been on. Not been able to eat till 9 or 8.30 at earliest was a bit of a nuisance, especially if you were staying in Albergue. Watching the Champions League in a Spanish Cafe is a joy to behold.

First few days out of Valencia very urban and industrial, surface very hard on legs and hips, do not do the stages as per amigos book. I broke the first day by staying in Silla, Pension Puerto e18. Take it very easy for the first four days I would have got shin splits if I didn't.

I did stay in the much criticised municipal Albergue in Higueruela, myself and my Danish walking companion found it fine, got the keys in Hostal Posada which was booked out, nice meal there. Looking at comments book in Albergue people were complaining about no toilet paper, any Pilgrim who has walked for more than one day should have toilet paper in a waterproof bag in their back pocket, spare me!!.

The Hostal that Laurie recommended in La Ronda is now closed, I stayed in Hotel Juanuto for 28.30 near the old Hostal but found out afterwards you can stay in local Bull Ring which my friend said was fine.

Careful leaving San Clemente, Laurie warns of bad marking for some reason that was not our problem. Loads of brilliant arrows. This is what happened to us. The walk should have been San Clemente to Las Pedrones but we followed arrows to Alberca de Zancara which meant road walking to Las Pedrones an extra 8 to 10 km, two sides of a triangle instead of one.

Not impressed with Arevalo. Hostal now e 30, after I booked in and paid I asked about food this was around 2 pm. There was a communion on Restraunte fully booked they would not even serve me a plate at the bar, as possibly the only resident there I found their attitude terrible. The entire town dispensed with Menue Delario (e10) instead special menu 22-28. I eat better meals for 8 euro. Would not stay in this town again on Weekend. This was Sunday. The bar Victoria is excellent Pilgrim friendly but does not do full meals.

Many grate acts of kindness along the one, one place which is fairly new is a must. Toro Bar Restraunte La Coleginta, you will probably come across it on the way in. I would eat there again instead of the Pension Zamora I stayed in which was ok. The Monastery of Sancti Spiritus look good but could not get anyone to answer the bell at 3.30 someone said to come back at 5, but I was too tired.

I had no problem from Toro to Zamora. Turned right at the quarry followed the arrows all the way. There is one blind arrow on a little concrete building, you will only see it if you turn left and go away from the river. I arrived in Zamora at the bridge from the opposite end to the Via de la Plata.

I don't really speak Spanish, got a bit frustrated now and again but overall no problem.

Outstanding meal of any of the Camino I walked was the pilgrim Menu for 9.50 in Milan I in San Clemente.

As I said in beginning I may add to this over the next few days.

Also editing my photos and will have a special section on my website in 10 days or less.
Thanks for all this nalod!!!

I particularly liked the mention about Champions League. Each year I was in Spain ('09, '11, '14) I watched it in local bar and every year Spanish club was in finals. Unforgettable :D

I've made some remarks from your recommendations and will report later after finished Levante/Sanabres/Muxia&Fisterra.

But... where's your photo from Tertulia in SdC?????????
 
#3
Thanks, Nalod. And lucky you, Kinky, it looks like the mystery on the cottonwood forest on the way into Zamora is solved.

I agree on the awful paving, it is really hard on your feet starting out. Day after day with no relief, but once you leave Moixent, I think it is, things are fine.

I have had similar meal experiences on weekends in towns in Castilla and surrounding area (not sure if the "custom" extends beyond there, but that's where I've seen it most). In Coca on the Camino de Madrid and Mora on the Levante, weekend menus del dia were double the price of the weekday. Sounds like Arevalo is the same. But in spite of the bad eating, the town itself is a great place to spend an afternoon, IMO. Amazing plazas (the oldest one is totally preserved and uncommercialized) and a nice castle. I also thought, like you, that the people were very nice.

I am waiting for your pictures, you are an amazing photographer!

Buen camino, Laurie
 

trevorcc

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
SJPD to Santiago 2013,2014 planning Camino de Levante Sept. 2016, now planning March 2018
#4
Thanks, Nalod. And lucky you, Kinky, it looks like the mystery on the cottonwood forest on the way into Zamora is solved.

I agree on the awful paving, it is really hard on your feet starting out. Day after day with no relief, but once you leave Moixent, I think it is, things are fine.

I have had similar meal experiences on weekends in towns in Castilla and surrounding area (not sure if the "custom" extends beyond there, but that's where I've seen it most). In Coca on the Camino de Madrid and Mora on the Levante, weekend menus del dia were double the price of the weekday. Sounds like Arevalo is the same. But in spite of the bad eating, the town itself is a great place to spend an afternoon, IMO. Amazing plazas (the oldest one is totally preserved and uncommercialized) and a nice castle. I also thought, like you, that the people were very nice.

I am waiting for your pictures, you are an amazing photographer!

Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Laurie, I loved our photos could you please tell me where I may obtain an English guide book for this Camino as I am now confused with the Catalan way or the De Levante, any thing that may help me choose my third walk would help or do I stay an extra 2 months and keep walking. Thanks Trevor
 
#5
Hi, Trevor,
The only guidebook in English that I know of for the Levante is the translation of the Spanish Amigos guidebook. You can get it on their website. http://www.vieiragrino.com/tienda/tienda.asp

I believe that the English version is still a translation of their older edition frm 2009 or 2010, but you can update it with posts from the forum and other info you find. They send you the latest set of maps, too, so you should be be ok with it.

I just walked the Camino Catalan and will soon be posting a summary with my impressions of that camino. Personally, I think the Levante is more interesting and more beautiful. For me the best part of the Camino Catalan was the 9 or 10 days before getting to Montserrat. You can walk the Cami St. Jaume from the coast near the border (I started at Llanca) and that was amazing. From Montserrat to Huesca, not so much, but from Huesca to the Aragones was once again very beautiful. Buen camino, Laurie
 

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J

Julio Santiago

Guest
#6
Hello I may add to this post over the next few days. Just back, started in Valencia on April 16th got to Zamora on May 14th. Fast train to Ourense on Friday 15 th (morning) started walking straight from the train station in Ourence (no problems this time) arrived in Santiago Monday May 18th.

Overall impressions. Big Skies, hot, loads and loads of Poppies, wild-flowers, ants - never saw as many ants in my entire life. Hit a heatwave for about three days 36 degree in the shade but there was no shade.

Don't leave without Laurie's notes and the Amigos book, I had the English version, tore out pages from Zamora onwards and left the separate maps at home. Then on a daily basis tore out the pages for the day ahead put them in my shorts pocket along with a page of Laurie's notes.

No rain for my trip, got soaked once my an irrigation system. Never used my camel back. A one litre bottle plus half litre bottle fine. Pack weight 9.4 kg without food and water. Generally wherever I had breakfast filled my water bottles with cold water. Favourite breakfast tostadas con tomato with acedo and cafe con leche e 1.60 to 3.60. The best menu del dia's of any Camino I have been on. Not been able to eat till 9 or 8.30 at earliest was a bit of a nuisance, especially if you were staying in Albergue. Watching the Champions League in a Spanish Cafe is a joy to behold.

First few days out of Valencia very urban and industrial, surface very hard on legs and hips, do not do the stages as per amigos book. I broke the first day by staying in Silla, Pension Puerto e18. Take it very easy for the first four days I would have got shin splits if I didn't.

I did stay in the much criticised municipal Albergue in Higueruela, myself and my Danish walking companion found it fine, got the keys in Hostal Posada which was booked out, nice meal there. Looking at comments book in Albergue people were complaining about no toilet paper, any Pilgrim who has walked for more than one day should have toilet paper in a waterproof bag in their back pocket, spare me!!.

The Hostal that Laurie recommended in La Ronda is now closed, I stayed in Hotel Juanuto for 28.30 near the old Hostal but found out afterwards you can stay in local Bull Ring which my friend said was fine.

Careful leaving San Clemente, Laurie warns of bad marking for some reason that was not our problem. Loads of brilliant arrows. This is what happened to us. I stayed in The Albergue but my walking companion stayed in Milan 1. I meet him there in the moring we saw a yellow arrow near Milan 1 and followed it. The walk should have been San Clemente to Las Pedrones but we followed arrows which brought us to Alberca de Zancara which meant road walking to Las Pedrones an extra 8 to 10 km, we abandoned the arrows in Alberca de Zancara, two sides of a triangle instead of one. Did we accidentally go on the Surreste. Any expatiation anyone? View attachment 18854

Not impressed with Arevalo. Hostal now e30, after I booked in and paid I asked about food, this was around 2 pm. There was a communion on, Restraunte fully booked they would not even serve me a plate at the bar, as possibly the only resident there I found their attitude terrible. The entire town dispensed with Menu Delario (e10) instead special menu e22-28. I eat better meals for 8 euro. Would not stay in this town again on Weekend. This was Sunday. The bar Victoria is excellent Pilgrim friendly but does not do full meals.

Many great acts of kindness along the way, one place which is fairly new is a must, it is in Toro ,Bar Restraunte La Coleginta, you will probably come across it on the way in. I would eat there again instead of the Pension Zamora I stayed in, which was ok. The Monastery of Sancti Spiritus look good but could not get anyone to answer the bell at 3.30 someone said to come back at 5, but I was too tired.

I had no problem from Toro to Zamora. Turned right at the quarry followed the arrows all the way. There is one blind arrow on a little concrete building, you will only see it if you turn left and go away from the river. I arrived in Zamora at the bridge from the opposite end to the Via de la Plata route.

I don't really speak Spanish, got a bit frustrated now and again(especially when I wanted to give out about something) but overall no problem.

Outstanding meal of any of the Camino I walked was the pilgrim Menu for 9.50 in Milan I in San Clemente.

Tried once to use the off line GPS thing I downloaded to my phone, found it a total waste of time could not even read the screen in the strong sun.

One thing about the Amigo guide book that drove me crazy was the way they have laid out historical information about the towns. You are in the middle of directions for navigating through the town. You are getting lost you have gone down the first two streets they have mentioned then a few paragraphs of history then another street. AlL directions should be grouped together. A separate little section on history etc.

As I said in beginning I may add to this over the next few days.

Also editing my photos and will have a special section on my website in 10 days or less.
Mi Amigo del Camino, thank you for your story, it reminds my recent 2015 Levante experience. Toro Pension Zamora was great for me as I had to stop one day: a giant blister that made me cry while approaching Toro in the distance ontop the cliff, I get lost walked probably nearly 50 km that day, exhausted by a umber of errands in la Vega del Duero...
San Clemente Mila, I yes I agree, the lady was like a mother for me. And huge room.
Higueruela poor albergue, I agree. More for "transeantes" (the name for the homeless on the road) than pilgrims.
La Roda and Albergue in the Plaza de Toros: my first time in an arena, I am Spanish but do not appreciate bull fighting because it ends up in bull killing.
In the end, I miss those days of hard walk in the Levante desert: I met only 4 Amigos del Camino up until Zamora.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#7
Hi Laurie, I loved our photos could you please tell me where I may obtain an English guide book for this Camino as I am now confused with the Catalan way or the De Levante, any thing that may help me choose my third walk would help or do I stay an extra 2 months and keep walking. Thanks Trevor
Hola, Trevor!

I walked Levante & Sanabres this summer and even met @Julio Santiago just before Chinchilla Monte Aragon :)
I've made my own guide book from:
http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=42
&
http://vieiragrino.com/camino/camino.asp

and I was perfectly OK most of the time. Usually I've checked GPS tracks either on later link or at
http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes/details/levante.html
sometimes they are different but in the end I did managed to get to Muxia & Fisterra :D

Ultreia!

PS (In a few weeks I'll post day-by-day journal of my walk with photos and GPS tracks, here on this forum, if you'll still be interested.)
 

AZgirl

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2012 , via de la Plata 2014
Madrid/frances Sept/Oct 2017
Next : Levante Sept 2019
#9
@KinkyOne I can't wait to read your posts of your journal, looking forward to it.
 

trevorcc

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
SJPD to Santiago 2013,2014 planning Camino de Levante Sept. 2016, now planning March 2018
#11
Hola, Trevor!

I walked Levante & Sanabres this summer and even met @Julio Santiago just before Chinchilla Monte Aragon :)
I've made my own guide book from:
http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=42
&
http://vieiragrino.com/camino/camino.asp

and I was perfectly OK most of the time. Usually I've checked GPS tracks either on later link or at
http://pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk/routes/details/levante.html
sometimes they are different but in the end I did managed to get to Muxia & Fisterra :D

Ultreia!

PS (In a few weeks I'll post day-by-day journal of my walk with photos and GPS tracks, here on this forum, if you'll still be interested.)
Thank you very much for the info as I have learnt in the past its always easier to ask someone will have the answer, again thank you.
 

Kiwi-family

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Past: (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016)
Future (God-willing): Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo (2018)
#12
Laurie commented somewhere that she would walk the Levante again in a heartbeat and so it is a strong contender for us so I am looking at everything I can. Pity gronze and mundicamino and eroski have so little information. I like to look at a guide before going, but it would be much cheaper to pick one up in Valencia. So for now I'm limited to online accounts.
 

nalod

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2011, Finnesterre 2011,Le Puy to SJPDP 2011& 2012,Via de la Plata,Sambrasa 2012, Mozarabe 2013, Portugees 2013.PartNorde 2011, VDPL 2014,St-Guilhem 2014.Espalion-Roncesvalles 2014.Levante2015
#13

Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
09 CFrancés, CFisterra 10 VPodiensis 11 CNorte 12 VPlata 13 VPlata, CSanabrés 14 CLevante, CSanabrés 15 CSureste, CInvierno, CMuxia 16 CMadrid, CSalvador, CPrimitivo (17 RLana, CInterior)
#14

nalod

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2011, Finnesterre 2011,Le Puy to SJPDP 2011& 2012,Via de la Plata,Sambrasa 2012, Mozarabe 2013, Portugees 2013.PartNorde 2011, VDPL 2014,St-Guilhem 2014.Espalion-Roncesvalles 2014.Levante2015
#15
Beautiful pictures. Looks nicer in spring than in the dusty summer months! And I recognized the hospitalero in Ávila...!

/BP
Yes he was a nice man. Thank you for your comments it was a lovely journey.
 

trevorcc

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
SJPD to Santiago 2013,2014 planning Camino de Levante Sept. 2016, now planning March 2018
#16
Thank you all folks as each day I find out more and my level of excitement rises, its only 14 weeks till I leave I must control myself or I will be tired before I start.....
 

digger

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Mozarabe; Almeria to Santiago May & June 2016
#17
Too late for nalod, sorry, but for others following; the albergue in Arevalo is a change room in a polideportivo on ther southern edge of town. I found it perfectly adequate and the policia local were very helpful with key etc
 

Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
09 CFrancés, CFisterra 10 VPodiensis 11 CNorte 12 VPlata 13 VPlata, CSanabrés 14 CLevante, CSanabrés 15 CSureste, CInvierno, CMuxia 16 CMadrid, CSalvador, CPrimitivo (17 RLana, CInterior)
#18
Too late for nalod, sorry, but for others following; the albergue in Arevalo is a change room in a polideportivo on ther southern edge of town. I found it perfectly adequate and the policia local were very helpful with key etc
Okay,

I have heard about the polideportivo but I always stayed in the Hostal... Campo? I think it's called.

/BP
 

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