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LIVE from the Camino Life as a hospitalero: Salamanca

David Tallan

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Hello from Salamanca!

I'm posting this from the pilgrim albergue in Salamanca. I'm posting it in the VDLP forum because that is the route that the vast majority of our pilgrims are walking, even though Salamanca is on a few routes (including the Torres, which I will walk when I am done here). I haven't officially taken over as hospitalero yet. I'm still in overlap and transition with Shannon, the previous hospitalera, also from Canada. It's about 6 in the morning, Spain time. I arrived yesterday afternoon from Madrid by BlaBlaCar.

It is a nice little albergue, right by the cathedrals and connected to the lovely Huerto de Calixta y Melibea park. Upstairs, the albergue has two dorms with 4 bunk beds each. A small room with one bunk bed usually reserved for ill pilgrims (which I used last night) and a small from for thr hospitalero. Downstairs is the main room (entry/common area/reception/dining room/kitchen/laundry) and washrooms. The kitchen is small, with just a microwave for cooking. There isn't a communal supper here but Shannon has been keeping the pantry stocked with a few basics to enable pilgrims to put together their own suppers and has been providing a basic breakfast out of her own pocket.

There is generally only one hospitalero here at a time but there are a few locals who are ready to support the hospitalero, one our official point of contact with the municipality and a couple of friends, one of whom is a retired physician who speaks English.

When I arrived I told Shannon that I didn't have my credencial yet but would acquire it over then next couple of weeks while staying at the albergue. That took her aback a bit until I explained that I was her replacement. Apparently the previous hospitalero hadn't done much of a knowledge transfer, so Shannon was prepared to be a but more thorough with me. She took me on a tour of the albergue and of the neighborhood.

The albergue is open from 3pm to 10pm. Pilgrims are expected to be out by 8 (although some leave much earlier). From 9:00am to 9:30 a cleaner comes on weekdays. I'm told that she cleans the washrooms and as much else as she has time for, so Shannon has been doing some of the easier cleaning to leave her some time fir the rest. Weekends it is up to us to clean. Shannon has been getting up at 6 for the breakfast crowd and to put the coffee on. We'll see what my patterns are and what the day has in store.
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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I look forward to your updates! Do they still have a routine with leaving backpacks downstairs, transfering things to plastic bags, etc?
Pilgrims are asked to leave their backpack in a large yellow plastic bag in the cabinets downstairs. I'm not sure how much the plastic bags help in the battle against bedbugs. They can carry what they need upstairs in large plastic pails. A fringe benefit is that this reduces noise in the dorms in the morning.
 
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Great David! Our friend, Tom Friesen several years ago arranged to go to Spanish classes while serving there since he didn't have to clean much. Don't know if that is of interest to you.
Tom Friesen was the fellow who provided my HosVol training. He also gave me (and Shannon) an orientation to the albergue and town. I expect I'll be using my free time mostly sightseeing, doing chores, and hopefully reconnecting with some friends I made on the San Salvador last year.
 
Pilgrims are asked to leave their backpack in a large yellow plastic bag in the cabinets downstairs. I'm not sure how much the plastic bags help in the battle against bedbugs. They can carry what they need upstairs in large plastic pails. A fringe benefit is that this reduces noise in the dorms in the morning.
I had to do this same thing quite a few times at the gites on the Via Podiensis in 2018. I didn't mind.
 
What an interesting posting, I think you will make an ace Hospitalero, you come across as a nice guy.

I am now looking for my next adventure, and am considering an immersive month learning in Spain, and have been considering doing some volunteering somewhere, and reading this thread is like seeing stars align. Therefore could I ask some questions please.
Is is usual to be thrown in at the deep end as a solo Hospitalero for your first one
This "HosVol training" is it a Canadian thing? ( I am UK based).
How much Spanish can you speak and how much is necessary?
Do you get to chose the Albergue?
Should I have searched the forums for a thread on how to be a Hospitalero and how to spell it;-)
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
What an interesting posting, I think you will make an ace Hospitalero, you come across as a nice guy.

I am now looking for my next adventure, and am considering an immersive month learning in Spain, and have been considering doing some volunteering somewhere, and reading this thread is like seeing stars align. Therefore could I ask some questions please.
Is is usual to be thrown in at the deep end as a solo Hospitalero for your first one
This "HosVol training" is it a Canadian thing? ( I am UK based).
How much Spanish can you speak and how much is necessary?
Do you get to chose the Albergue?
Should I have searched the forums for a thread on how to be a Hospitalero and how to spell it;-)
HosVol is a Spanish group that provides trained volunteers hospitaleros (hospitaleros voluntarios) to donativo albergues. There are thirty something albergues they provide hospitaleros to. Hospitaleros come from around the world, if they have taken the HosVol training (which, in my case, was conducted over a weekend). Various volunteers around the world do the training. In my experience, you fill in a form for your first stint, answering some basic questions about what you may or may not be up for (organizing a communal meal or evening service, for example) and tell them when you will be available and they assign a location. I think most of them are not solo, but most have a lot more work than this one.

My Spanish is probably intermediate. My understanding is a lot better than my speaking, not only because it always is but because I get much, much more practice listening than speaking. My predecessor has less Spanish than me. It isn't a requirement and you can probably get by with Google Translate, if push comes to shove.

I have heard of more experienced hospitaleros who have a track record with the organization asking for particular albergues, but I expect that would also require some flexibility about when they serve.
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
HosVol does not have training in the UK. The Confraternity of St James in the UK does staff two albergues though and you can volunteer through them.

We volunteer annually. My husband who speaks very little Spanish has done one solo albergue in a town of no English speakers. Once you get the hang of the duties it isn't that hard. Normally we staff an albergue together, but he also worked with a Spanish hospitalero teammate one summer and they got along with hand signals and Google Translate.

You can also volunteer at the pilgrim office in St Jean and in Santiago.

In the US now and I think also in Canada, we are required to go through our country organization to get assignments. The hospitalero organizers know your skills and can help the HosVol coordinator select a good posting. We usually just go where we are needed, but have occasionally asked for a specific posting.

Another organization that takes volunteers is FICS. They don't require the training. They have 3 albergues. You can reach out to Rebekah Scott who is a member of this forum if you are interested.
 
I am now looking for my next adventure, and am considering an immersive month learning in Spain, and have been considering doing some volunteering somewhere, and reading this thread is like seeing stars align. Therefore could I ask some questions please.
Is is usual to be thrown in at the deep end as a solo Hospitalero for your first one
This "HosVol training" is it a Canadian thing? ( I am UK based).
How much Spanish can you speak and how much is necessary?
Do you get to chose the Albergue?
Should I have searched the forums for a thread on how to be a Hospitalero and how to spell it;-)
As David advised training is conducted in several countries around the world, including England. I did mine here in Germany.
I contacted HosVol at manuelhosvol@caminosantiago.org
at somebody's suggestion to the same question. He emailed me the appropriate contacts over here, and I went from there. Mine was a residential weekend course - Friday evening through to Sunday lunchtime.
I have no idea of the cost structure for the training in England, whilst you don't pay for the training itself you do need to pay for accommodation and meals. Plus travel to the venue of course.

Manuel tries to pair inexperienced with experienced Hospitaleros whenever possible. A placement is normally for two weeks, either the first two weeks or the last of any given month. You do not have to speak Spanish but it most definitely helps. If you don't they will try and put you with somebody that does.

Whilst a few only require one Hospitalero many Albergues are run by pairs, there's at least one that has more volunteers. @J Willhaus knows far more than I, as she and her husband volunteer frequently. Hopefully Janet will be along soon to correct any errors I've made and fill in any gaps.

Good luck, and enjoy!
 
Tuesday 15 October.
It's about 4:00 pm and we've been open around an hour. So far we have 4 pilgrims, all Spanish men, all on the VDLP (one in reverse), one bicigrino.

This morning, after we said goodbye to the pilgrims and got the place in order for the cleaner, and I had my shower and did my laundry, I headed out to see a bit of Salamanca. I started with the Clerecía building, which has incredible views of the town from the bell towers at the top of the "Scala Coeli" (stairway to heaven), and then walked across the street to the public library, located in the Casa de las Conchas (house of shells).

I headed back to the albergue at about noon and rested until 1:30 or so when I went to the local recommended bar to see if they had anything for comida. Their dining room opened at 1:45, so I hung around for the few minutes until it did. While waiting, I checked my email only to see an email from Víctor, my municipal contact, asking if I was coming to eat with them at Niza. I had never heard of Niza. Apparently, it looks like a message might not have been passed along by Víctor's friends yesterday. Oh well, tomorrow. So I had a nice little plato combinado and headed back to the albergue for opening.

It's been pretty quiet. I'm manning the desk while Shannon sits nearby to ensure I don't screw things up too badly. She'll head out on her Camino tomorrow morning.
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
A lovely location in which to volunteer! Thanks for reminding me of the albergue — and the bin liners! There was no communal meal as such, but the genial hospitalero put out some sharing plates of whatever he had in store. I remember spending the evening in the beautiful garden, a real haven of tranquillity.
 
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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
I was lucky to be assigned to the albergue in Salamanca last spring over Easter. It was busy due to the Easter celebrations. I must admit this seemed a bit of a holiday … no meals, a cleaner 5 days. What luxury. Gave time to deep clean the fridge, the cupboards … the areas that get neglected when busy. And some time to see Salamanca…beautiful !

But what great pilgrims…so diverse, so interesting. Sitting and learning about their camino’s was the best part of my stay there. And after more than 7 albergues … my very limited Spanish gets me by. Smiling opens the door!

As I get older, my Camino’s have become shorter but my love of the way can be expressed as a hospitalero 🩷. 2025 will bring a new challenge at a new albergue or 2. Looking forward to spring
 
Congratulations on the Posting! I wish you all the best! The people I have stayed with have been great both times and I hope you're still about in a year or two when I walk back through.

One of the previous hospitalero's made Camino wrist bands, for a donation you could have one. Do you have any plans to do something similar? Camino memento's are the best!
 
Well done David!
Make sure to contact the lovely professor Luis Quintales (father of the Torres camino) at University of Salamanca. He can direct you to the bust of professor Diego de Torres & provide all the latest Torres route info.
I did this in 2016 when the Torres was really an unknown. Tough days...Great times!
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Congratulations on the Posting! I wish you all the best! The people I have stayed with have been great both times and I hope you're still about in a year or two when I walk back through.

One of the previous hospitalero's made Camino wrist bands, for a donation you could have one. Do you have any plans to do something similar? Camino memento's are the best!
I made Camino buttons but I am gifting them to pilgrims rather than asking for a donation.
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Well done David!
Make sure to contact the lovely professor Luis Quintales (father of the Torres camino) at University of Salamanca. He can direct you to the bust of professor Diego de Torres & provide all the latest Torres route info.
I did this in 2016 when the Torres was really an unknown. Tough days...Great times!
Thanks for the tip! Do you have contact info for him?
 
I think Salamanca is one of my favourite Camino towns.
The Plaza Mayor I could sit in all day!
Though the final 12 kms walk in from the South seems never ending :)

We must have sat outside a cafe slurping wine listening to these guys for ages...... topping up their tin every now and again to keep them going. I wonder if they are still around? Just up the hill from you.

They were just here. https://maps.app.goo.gl/YAQjEwHqVX87yk646


View attachment Day 25 - Salamanca.mp4
 
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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
I think Salamanca is one of my favourite Camino towns.
The Plaza Mayor I could sit in all day!
Though the final 12 kms walk in from the South seems never ending :)

We must have sat outside a cafe slurping wine listening to these guys for ages...... topping up their tin every now and again to keep them going. I wonder if they are still around? Just up the hill from you.

They were just here. https://maps.app.goo.gl/YAQjEwHqVX87yk646


View attachment 179213
Sure makes me want to walk into Salamanca for the 3rd time... :cool:
But I agree: The walk in from south seems never-ending...
 
Sure makes me want to walk into Salamanca for the 3rd time... :cool:
But I agree: The walk in from south seems never-ending...

We were actually thinking of buying a place there. I love it.
And you have 2 weeks there @David Tallan :)

I think this was about 12 kms out.

"Are we there yet" :oops:

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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Wednesday 16 October 2024

It's about 4:15 and we've been open for an hour and a quarter and no pilgrima yet. That's not quite true. I just had one pilgrim wander in who was just looking for a stamp. He was finishing here for this year and will return next year. Yesterday, the four pilgrims we got in the first hour were all the pilgrims we had stay. We had another couple show up looking for stamps, and a couple of pilgrims with questions (where to get credencials in Salamanca) but none of them were looking for a place to stay, either.

It is pouring out there. I'm not really expecting any pilgrims until the rain let's up. I know if I were a pilgrim arrived in Salamanca now, I'd be holed up in a bar with a hot or cold drink waiting for a pause in the rain before walking the town seeking accommodations. It's been a mixed weather day. It was drizzly this morning, and there was both sun and rain alternating in the afternoon.

After setting out the breakfast this morning, saying goodbye to yesterday's pilgrims (and Shannon, off to continue her own pilgrimage), tidying the place, and doing some chores I set off for a bit of sightseeing. I had found a copy of the Michelin Green Guide to Spain in my Kindle library so I followed their walking tour of Salamanca (although I didn't really go into the cathedrals, university buildings, or museums - I will save them for other days). My goal was to get the lay of the land and see the interesting buildings from the outside and where they were located. I walked the town for about 2.5 hours, did a but of grocery shopping, and got back to the albergue shortly after noon.

After a bit of a rest, I checked my email shortly after 12:30, only to see an email from Victor that he had sent at 12:15 telling me they would meet me at Casa de las Conchas at 12:30! I replied that I had just received the email and would head right over. When I got there, I sent him another email letting him know I was in the patio (see previous photos).

Victor proceeded to take me on another little walking tour of downtown Salamanca ending at a little eatery called Niza, where they had arranged for subsidized  comidas for me. I could order the menu del dia and, as hospitalero, I would only be charged €5. The previous hospitalera had disparage it a bit, calling it a "greasy spoon" but from what I could see put in front of Victor, myself, and the other patrons, it was a decent enough place serving the mainstays of traditional Spanish cuisine. Victor had lentejas con chorizo followed by a fish main course (I think it was  merluza). I had a traditional cocido completo, with the first course of broth and noodles and the second of all the things that had been cooked in the broth. We had tarta de helado and  natillas for dessert. I definitely will be returning.

Then it was back to the albergue so I could wait for some pilgrims. I'm still waiting. Although at least the sun has come out now.

Photos: House of Death; Colegio Arzobispo Fonseca (note the conchas and the medallion above of St. James at the Battle of Clavijo); facade of the University (you have to really zoom in to find the frog); facade at the cathedral (find the astronaut and monster eating an ice cream cone); Palacio de la Salina, where the city's salt was once kept; Huerto de Calixto y Melibe, right next to the albergue (we have our own private entrance to the gardens so we can visit when the gardens are closed to the public).

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David, I hope it will not take you long to visit the incredible San Marcos. A bit of a long walk though, but just up your alley.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
David, it sounds like you're going to need that Kindle library. Either that or a friendly local to drop by to keep you company from time to time.
I love time to myself but I also need something to do - as you've served before, how did you cope? (Other than the time you spent here on the forum of course!).
 
David, it sounds like you're going to need that Kindle library. Either that or a friendly local to drop by to keep you company from time to time.
I love time to myself but I also need something to do - as you've served before, how did you cope? (Other than the time you spent here on the forum of course!).
This is my first time as hospitalero. So far I've been keeping up here and on other social media and listening to Spanish learning resources. Hopefully, most days won't be so pilgrim-free. It sounded like Shannon got a reasonable number most days, and I would think that October would be one of the more popular times of the year fir the VDLP, after the heat of the summer has subsided.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
It does look right up my alley! The trick is figuring out when it is open.
San Marcos, yes yes yes!!!! I remember that I wondered at the time whether there were other round Romanesque churches in Spain. I knew of a few octagonal ones but I can’t remember seeing any that were round. But I never did follow up to research my curiosity. I was lucky to get in during a mass, which may be your best bet.
 
Thursday 16 October 2024

It's about 6 pm and we seem to have 4 pilgrims again: Croatian, Irish, American, and Spanish. At least that is better than the none we had yesterday.

I met the Croatian pilgrim when I was heading out for lunch. I was just pausing to take a photo of the old Roman bridge and I saw her, looking very much the pilgrim. I wished her a "buen camino" and told her I was the hospitalero. She asked if there would be room for two pilgrims and I told her I was very confident there would be. I told her the albergue would be open at 3 and she asked me how to get there. After a moment's thought, I said I would walk her there and she could leave her backpack there to give herself a bit more freedom in the couple of hours she had to kill. She was very grateful. She later told me that she often loses focus after a long day's walk and that can cause difficulties navigating to her accommodations.

But I am getting ahead of myself. With no pilgrims here last night, I allowed myself a nice sleep in and got up after 7 am. I hung around until the cleaner arrived do that I could tell her that the dormitories were untouched (thinking she could divert her efforts to other areas). Upon heading out of the albergue, I decided first to walk up to the San Marcos church, a Romanesque church that had been recommended to me, to see when the masses were (i.e. when it would be open). I thought that the sign said 11 and 12:30 Monday to Friday, which would leave me with a half hour to kill. So I looked around on Google Maps to see what was nearby and it pointed me to the church of San Juan of Sahagun. I got there and it was closed, but there was a supermarket nearby, so I did a but of shopping. When I left the store at 10:45, the church bells at San Juan of Sahagun were ringing and it was open. I took a quick look around. It didn't take me long when I got back to San Marcos to realize I had misunderstood the sign. An 11:00 mass at San Juan and a 12:30 mass at San Marcos. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.

From there I went back to Casa Lis, an Modernista mansion from 1905 that houses a museum dedicated to Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Today was their free day. I spent a fair amount of time there but unfortunately they have a strict "no photographs" policy. One would think that with a policy like that they would at least sell their own photographs, perhaps in a book in the gift shop. But no such luck. I did buy a small glass animal for my daughter, though, who collects such things.

That took me right until time for  comida, which left me with just enough time for a little rest and tidy before opening up the albergue. (Edited to add: oh, and on the way back from comida the streets were filled with costumed students, culminating in a disorganized parade. It seems it was a fiesta for the medical students.)

The first pilgrims to arrive were the Croatian and her Irish friend. Not too long after them was a Spanish pilgrim who just paused to drop off his backpack before heading out to find a pharmacy and do some shopping. While he was away, an American bicigrino arrived, who said he recognized me from the Forum.

When the Spanish pilgrim came back, along with letting me know that he was also a HosVol hospitalero, he also made clear that he didn't have a lot of respect for albergue rules. He protested leaving his backpack downstairs (but eventually acceded when I insisted. And when I finally got him to check in and he saw the albergue hours, he was having none of that. He said I could expect him at 11 (the albergue closes at 10). I told him that he could also expect a locked door.

I didn't give an inch on that, although I kept a smile as I responded to his repeated assertions that he could not live with a 10:00 curfew, but I expect I will be up until 11. If he isn't back by then, tough, he can expect to sleep outside.

Photos: sculpture near San Marcos, church of San Juan of Sahagun, Roman bridge, Salamanca street scene, costumed students.
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I spent a fair amount of time there but unfortunately they have a strict "no photographs" policy.

I didn't get that memo and there were other visitors who didn't either. It is a wonderful building though.
 

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When the Spanish pilgrim came back, along with letting me know that he was also a HosVol hospitalero, he also made clear that he didn't have a lot of respect for albergue rules. He protested leaving his backpack downstairs (but eventually acceded when I insisted. And when I finally got him to check in and he saw the albergue hours, he was having none of that. He said I could expect him at 11 (the albergue closes at 10). I told him that he could also expect a locked door.
Good for you! I'll be interested to find out how this plays out.
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
I didn't get that memo and there were other visitors who didn't either. It is a wonderful building though.
I didn't get the memo either. I stepped in that awesome museum and was immediately mesmerized by that beautiful stained glass ceiling, so grabbed a quick picture of it, and was quickly and embarrassingly chastised by a guard who made me feel like a criminal. My ignorance didn't feel like bliss, but my photo was still worth it.🙂
I thought the collections of Art Nouveau were outstanding and quite varied.

P.S. The backside behind the museum was quite attractive, as well.
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
A Hospitalero (Spanish, employed by the Ayumiento) in Castro Urdiales advised a group Of Pilgrims it was ok to watch a Euro Soccer match, come back at 11, he locked them and their bags out, It was vert traumatic for those of us who went to bed early. The Hospitalero was removed from his post (he was breaking lots of rules etc) But to our horror we met him again in Sobrado Monastery, he had been sent to the Monks to dry out and was not allowed handle any monies. The group locked out were mostly Spanish and a young Portugese man friends with us, he was able to tell us later what they did that night. Thanks for posting.
 
David, you're a lot nicer than I.
I would simply have said "it's a shame that you feel unable to abide by the rules. Do you need help with finding alternative accommodation?"

But then I have run both a pub and a backpackers hostel. I've generally found it possible to reason with backpackers, reasoning with drunks is definitely more problematic ..... .
 
Salamanca is my absolutely favourite city in Spain. I have stayed at the albergue there twice and at other interesting accommodation, including the Parador, a couple of times. I would return to Spain to spend more time in that city: its churches, albergues and architecture are so much what I experience as the beauty of historical Spain. My challenge is always with my reluctance to move on.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
San Marcos, yes yes yes!!!! I remember that I wondered at the time whether there were other round Romanesque churches in Spain. I knew of a few octagonal ones but I can’t remember seeing any that were round. But I never did follow up to research my curiosity. I was lucky to get in during a mass, which may be your best bet.
I have mentioned recently on another thread how I now research my lodging before I leave home, but don't always research all the gems a larger village or city has to offer. I later find out things I missed from forum members, and I unknowingly and unfortunately failed to seek them out.
This past spring I spent two days in Salamanca and had no idea about the round San Marcos church although I enjoyed many other sights. I just googled images and it looks simple, yet very unique with its perfectly round structure; one of my "two little, too lates".
 
I didn't give an inch on that, although I kept a smile as I responded to his repeated assertions that he could not live with a 10:00 curfew, but I expect I will be up until 11. If he isn't back by then, tough, he can expect to sleep outside.

We eagerly await the next update ! :oops:
 
This past spring I spent two days in Salamanca and had no idea about the round San Marcos church although I enjoyed many other sights. I just googled images and it looks simple, yet very unique with its perfectly round structure; one of my "two little, too lates".
One of the amazing things about it is that when you see the inside there are three apses with hemi-dome ceilings, but they are actually built into the thickness of the circular wall.
San Marcos Salamanca 21-6-12 (2).webp
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
One of the amazing things about it is that when you see the inside there are three apses with hemi-dome ceilings, but they are actually built into the thickness of the circular wall.
View attachment 179288
That is a very fascinating and unusual interior, Paul; each side being totally unequal. Thanks for the photo. There is nothing "simple" about its design.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Hello from Salamanca!

I'm posting this from the pilgrim albergue in Salamanca. I'm posting it in the VDLP forum because that is the route that the vast majority of our pilgrims are walking, even though Salamanca is on a few routes (including the Torres, which I will walk when I am done here). I haven't officially taken over as hospitalero yet. I'm still in overlap and transition with Shannon, the previous hospitalera, also from Canada. It's about 6 in the morning, Spain time. I arrived yesterday afternoon from Madrid by BlaBlaCar.

It is a nice little albergue, right by the cathedrals and connected to the lovely Huerto de Calixta y Melibea park. Upstairs, the albergue has two dorms with 4 bunk beds each. A small room with one bunk bed usually reserved for ill pilgrims (which I used last night) and a small from for thr hospitalero. Downstairs is the main room (entry/common area/reception/dining room/kitchen/laundry) and washrooms. The kitchen is small, with just a microwave for cooking. There isn't a communal supper here but Shannon has been keeping the pantry stocked with a few basics to enable pilgrims to put together their own suppers and has been providing a basic breakfast out of her own pocket.

There is generally only one hospitalero here at a time but there are a few locals who are ready to support the hospitalero, one our official point of contact with the municipality and a couple of friends, one of whom is a retired physician who speaks English.

When I arrived I told Shannon that I didn't have my credencial yet but would acquire it over then next couple of weeks while staying at the albergue. That took her aback a bit until I explained that I was her replacement. Apparently the previous hospitalero hadn't done much of a knowledge transfer, so Shannon was prepared to be a but more thorough with me. She took me on a tour of the albergue and of the neighborhood.

The albergue is open from 3pm to 10pm. Pilgrims are expected to be out by 8 (although some leave much earlier). From 9:00am to 9:30 a cleaner comes on weekdays. I'm told that she cleans the washrooms and as much else as she has time for, so Shannon has been doing some of the easier cleaning to leave her some time fir the rest. Weekends it is up to us to clean. Shannon has been getting up at 6 for the breakfast crowd and to put the coffee on. We'll see what my patterns are and what the day has in store.
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Great report and the photos bring back wonderful memories. Thanks for your service to pilgrims. They and the local volunteers really appreciate it.
 
Friday 18 October 2024

It is shortly after 4:00 pm. So far, one pilgrim, a peregrina from Hong Kong. Yesterday we got a fifth pilgrim wander in at about 9:30ish, from Panama. He had just finished walking the Salvador and had a few days before his flight home and so decided to walk the Via de la Plata from Salamanca to Zamora over three days. By the time he was settled in, it was 10:00 and our Croatian peregrina asked if she could step out for a smoke before heading to bed and I said okay. It was a longer smoke than I expected.

Our Spanish pilgrim showed up just before 10:30. When he got back, insistent that in all of his many Caminos only one had had a curfew as early as ten (run by monks, of course, and the other monasteries had 11:00pm curfews) because 10:00pm was a most unreasonable time for a curfew that noone in a social community could be expected to adhere to. Then he wanted to step out for a smoke. I showed him how he could step into the area between the door and the gate, which I locked. He wanted to stay up for a while before going to bed and I just didn't have the energy to argue with him or, more to the point, try to enforce otherwise. So I went to bed while he chatted with the Panamanian pilgrim. I decided not to leave the breakfast things out before going to bed because I wasn't sure how much of them would make it to breakfast time. In the end, at one point in the middle of the night when I had woken up while everyone was asleep, I got up and laid them out.

I got up at 6:00am and finished setting up the breakfast (made the coffee, put out the milk and yogurt, etc.) before everyone came down. When people emerged, they brought with them a mystery. What had happened to our bicigrino? His bed was made up for him to sleep in. His bicycle was still here. But he had never showed up in the room with the Spanish and Panamanian pilgrims. And his pillow was nowhere to be found. The Mystery of the Disappearing Pilgrim. It turned out he had been made uncomfortable by his dormitory mates and decided to move to the small room reserved for ill pilgrims, snagging himself a private room, which was only discovered when he emerged in the morning. He had taken his pillow with him. He ended up being the last to leave but by 8:30 or 8:45 I was by myself and able to finish tidying up before the cleaner arrived.

Today was an ecclesiastical day. First I saw the Dominican monastery of San Esteban and the Dominican convent of Las Dueñas across the road, both known for their cloisters. Then I timed things to arrive at San Marco about 20 minutes before mass, figuring it would give me some time to look around before mass started. The best laid plans, as they say. When I arrived there was a Spanish woman on the podium leading the congregation through repetitive prayers of what seemed a rosary. When she was done after 20 minutes, the priest came up to start mass. So it was about 50 minutes before I got to see more of the church than I could see from the vantage of my seat. It was a nice Romanesque church (judging by the size of the windows, I might have thought pre-Romanesque, but on the other hand, some of those arches almost look early Gothic - an enigms) with nice medieval paintings on the walls but very unusual for a Romanesque church in two ways: its round shape and the complete lack of architectural sculpture.

From there I went to my €5 menu del dia and back to the albergue. After a bit of a rest, I opened it up about ten or fifteen minutes early. My first pilgrim showed up at about 2:55, very happy I had opened early. Which brings us to where we are now.

It is just after 6:00 and we've had two more pilgrims. One is a Spanish bicigrino and the other a walker from the UK. The latter started in Almeria but has taken a circuitous route to get here, with a pause due to post-Brexit Schengen restrictions and a diversion to the Portugues for a while.

I'm going to send this off now. Anything else today will be included in tomorrow's report.

Photos:
San Esteban facade; San Esteban cloister; De Soto's Staircase, San Esteban; Las Dueñas cloister; capital detail, Las Dueñas cloister; San Marcos (x2)

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I'm actually enjoying it, despite requiring patience. You get to stay in one place a bit longer and get to know it a bit deeper (beyond "this is Thursday so it must be Sahagún"). It is inexpensive, not too much work (at least in this posting!), with plenty of time to see things between 8 and 3 most days. And you get to meet lots of pilgrims (if only for a day or two) and possibly be of real assistance.
 
I'm actually enjoying it, despite requiring patience. You get to stay in one place a bit longer and get to know it a bit deeper (beyond "this is Thursday so it must be Sahagún"). It is inexpensive, not too much work (at least in this posting!), with plenty of time to see things between 8 and 3 most days. And you get to meet lots of pilgrims (if only for a day or two) and possibly be of real assistance.
You are too soft on your pilgrims: Rules are rules, and you need a good night's sleep. Other than that: I love your reports on your service. I have (not yet) served as a hospitalero (I was expected this May in Najera for @Rebekah 's organisation) but my health came in the way.

I was however a volunteer in the PO in SdC in 2019, and it was very rewarding for me.

You are serving the Camino in a very beautiful place. Admirable. Sending envy. Salamanca has a special place with me. The VdlP (2012-2013 and visiting by train with my better half in 2018) has a very special place in my Spanish experience. Sleep well, and enjoy your service to this big community.
 
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Tom Friesen was the fellow who provided my HosVol training. He also gave me (and Shannon) an orientation to the albergue and town. I expect I'll be using my free time mostly sightseeing, doing chores, and hopefully reconnecting with some friends I made on the San Salvador last year.
Tom Friesen was also my HosVol trainer in Toronto several years ago and I did a two-week hospitalero stint in Salamanca...on my own, but the albergue was not very busy. It was a great experience and a wonderful albergue and town.
Thanks for sharing your experience there - it brings back good memories!
 
I look forward to staying at this albergue in a few weeks time. Should be there about the 9th Nov.

Can you provide any info about how the weather is looking?
 
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Hola David, as a two time pilgrim I am in total agreement with the enforcement of closing AND opening time rules. I recall an albergue where the lights (via a master switch) did not operate before 6.30 am. Fortunately for me I slept through those noisy 5.45/6.15 am departures. I totally support your stance on insisting that the front door will be locked at 10.00 PM/22.00. Although this did backfire on me in Casar de Caceres when two French and one Dutch pilgrim decided to stay out after the now absent hospitalero had closed the front door. Around 10.30/1045 I was awoken by the three of them calling out for the Australian pilgrim to open the door. As you might expect I was not too pleased. But they all repaid the favour the next day when I arrived at Embalse de Alcantara with a major foot injury. They informed me that the next day had zero mobile phone contact and if I found myself unable to walk I would be in real trouble. The result was that my camino finished at this point and the hospitalera's boyfriend arrive at 9.30 am and drove me to the train station at Canaveral. As the say goes "the camino will provide". Cheers
 
Saturday 19 October 2024

It's about 5 pm and so far we have three pilgrims today: from Spain, France, and Montenegro. It's been a quiet day, so this will be a shorter report.

Yesterday, folks were mostly back by 10 pm ... ish. The Chinese peregrina who had been the first to arrive just before 3:00 was actually the last to return, about ten minutes late. I was still up, in the midst of a long and deep conversation with the British pilgrim. He was traveling without a phone and without much Spanish, which brings with it some challenges. He wasn't sure if he wanted to press on tomorrow (Saturday) or take a rest day and eventually asked if I could help him call a place in Salamanca and reserve for tomorrow. Since we have been so far from being full, I told him it was okay for him to take his rest day here. He was very grateful. (Of course, as so often happens on the Camino, a night's rest proves very restorative, and in the morning he didn't think he'd need a rest day and preferred to keep his walking rhythm.)

When I went to bed last night, the British pilgrim was still up and asked if it was okay if he sat quietly at the table for a few minutes more before going to bed. I said "Okay, just make sure to turn out these lights before you head to bed." Of course, when I got up at 2:30 am to use the rest rooms, I noticed he had forgotten to turn out the lights. But I noticed that I also had forgotten to lay out the breakfast. So I did.

I was woken up again at 6:00 by my alarm and finished with the breakfast, putting the coffee on and laying out the refrigerated items. The Chinese pilgrim was the first up and out, leaving with a hug at about 7:30. The other two took a but longer, finally departing at about 8:30. Then the day was my own.

But I had cleaning to do (no cleaner on the weekend) and rest to catch up on so there was no sightseeing this morning, just chores. After chores, I took a bit of a rest, interrupted a couple of times by pilgrims ringing the doorbell to ask if they could leave their bags here while visiting the town (something I hadn't experienced other days, probably because I hadn't been here to hear it).

I couldn't leave you without anything, though, so I did stop in one place on the way to comida. Salamanca being a university town, I stopped by a classroom, specifically the reputed site of Salamanca's School of Necromancy, allegedly taught by the Devil himself. Just around the corner from the albergue is the Cave of Salamanca, the crypt of the former Church of San Cebrian (demolished in the 14th century). Legend has it that Satan would teach classes of seven students for seven years, after which he would take one of the students to serve him for life. One of the students taken was Enrique of Aragon (1384-1434), the Marquis of Villena, who managed to escape, losing his shadow in the process. The cave has appeared in tales written by Cervantes, Calderón de la Barca, Walter Scott, and many others.

After lunch, I did a bit of shopping restocking some breakfast items before heading back to the albergue. One of the many complaints from the Spanish pilgrim yesterday morning (the one who could not conceive of a 10pm curfew in civilized society) was that Cola Cao had not been put out with the coffee and teas in the morning. How could it possibly not be there? Actually, I think Cola Cao is a decent option to include, so I picked some up while I was restocking the magdalenas and croissants.

Then I opened us up for business, 15 minutes early after another little rest and checked in our three pilgrims. After which I just sat around. Which brings us to now.

Edited to add: we got a fourth peregrina from Argentina arriving at about 6:00 pm.

Photos. I don't have much, just a couple of photos of the "cave" (crypt), so I will add in a few I took last night from the garden.
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Hello from Salamanca!

I'm posting this from the pilgrim albergue in Salamanca. I'm posting it in the VDLP forum because that is the route that the vast majority of our pilgrims are walking, even though Salamanca is on a few routes (including the Torres, which I will walk when I am done here). I haven't officially taken over as hospitalero yet. I'm still in overlap and transition with Shannon, the previous hospitalera, also from Canada. It's about 6 in the morning, Spain time. I arrived yesterday afternoon from Madrid by BlaBlaCar.

It is a nice little albergue, right by the cathedrals and connected to the lovely Huerto de Calixta y Melibea park. Upstairs, the albergue has two dorms with 4 bunk beds each. A small room with one bunk bed usually reserved for ill pilgrims (which I used last night) and a small from for thr hospitalero. Downstairs is the main room (entry/common area/reception/dining room/kitchen/laundry) and washrooms. The kitchen is small, with just a microwave for cooking. There isn't a communal supper here but Shannon has been keeping the pantry stocked with a few basics to enable pilgrims to put together their own suppers and has been providing a basic breakfast out of her own pocket.

There is generally only one hospitalero here at a time but there are a few locals who are ready to support the hospitalero, one our official point of contact with the municipality and a couple of friends, one of whom is a retired physician who speaks English.

When I arrived I told Shannon that I didn't have my credencial yet but would acquire it over then next couple of weeks while staying at the albergue. That took her aback a bit until I explained that I was her replacement. Apparently the previous hospitalero hadn't done much of a knowledge transfer, so Shannon was prepared to be a but more thorough with me. She took me on a tour of the albergue and of the neighborhood.

The albergue is open from 3pm to 10pm. Pilgrims are expected to be out by 8 (although some leave much earlier). From 9:00am to 9:30 a cleaner comes on weekdays. I'm told that she cleans the washrooms and as much else as she has time for, so Shannon has been doing some of the easier cleaning to leave her some time fir the rest. Weekends it is up to us to clean. Shannon has been getting up at 6 for the breakfast crowd and to put the coffee on. We'll see what my patterns are and what the day has in store.
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I have also served in Salamanca in this Albergue a few years back and then continued the Sanabres to Santiago....it was a great experience.We bought the plastic buckets so the pilgrims could carry up to the dorms a few belongjngs....i wonder if they still exist....Wishing you a great experience...
 
I have also served in Salamanca in this Albergue a few years back and then continued the Sanabres to Santiago....it was a great experience.We bought the plastic buckets so the pilgrims could carry up to the dorms a few belongjngs....i wonder if they still exist....Wishing you a great experience...
They are still in use! 😀
 
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I remember the plastic buckets in Conques in France. I immediately thought how wonderful it was being immaculately clean.
 
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What an interesting posting, I think you will make an ace Hospitalero, you come across as a nice guy.

I am now looking for my next adventure, and am considering an immersive month learning in Spain, and have been considering doing some volunteering somewhere, and reading this thread is like seeing stars align. Therefore could I ask some questions please.
Is is usual to be thrown in at the deep end as a solo Hospitalero for your first one
This "HosVol training" is it a Canadian thing? ( I am UK based).
How much Spanish can you speak and how much is necessary?
Do you get to chose the Albergue?
Should I have searched the forums for a thread on how to be a Hospitalero and how to spell it;-)
CSJ, Confraternity of Saint James: https://www.csj.org.uk/ is based in the UK. They run two albergues in Spain at Rabanal on the Francés and Miraz on the Norte. You can apply to volunteer as a hospitalero at either of those places, but demand is high so apply as soon as you can. They will give you training in situ if they accept you. Hosvol training is provided in several countries including Australia, Canada, US, Netherlands, France (and others) usually through the national friends of the camino association, but not in the UK. Speaking Spanish is an advantage, but not essential.

Incidentally, Salamanca is something of a centre for teaching Spanish.
 
David, what do you give them for breakfast?
I make coffee and put on the kettle. There are little packets with magdalenas and croissants, yogurts, and clementines. There is tea and Cola Cao, jam, honey, sugar, and milk on the table. And instant coffee if people want to get up and leave before six (less common as we get deeper into fall). But if they get up before 6, the milk and yogurt is not on the table.
 
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Have any of the pilgrims mentioned how busy the VDLP is at the moment or how many other pilgrims they have met en route?
 
Have any of the pilgrims mentioned how busy the VDLP is at the moment or how many other pilgrims they have met en route?
Some have said it is not busy, but they have previously walked more popular routes, so it is hard to say how that compares to the norm for the VDLP. We have had a half dozen ir less pilgrims each night here, but there are plenty of accommodation options in Salamanca and people wanting to enjoy the nightlife in this university town may be sleeping in private accommodation elsewhere.
 
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...fortunately I'm on the west coast and you're 'only' 6 hours ahead of me. (Pretty weird when you think about it.)
 
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I make coffee and put on the kettle. There are little packets with magdalenas and croissants, yogurts, and clementines. There is tea and Cola Cao, jam, honey, sugar, and milk on the table. And instant coffee if people want to get up and leave before six (less common as we get deeper into fall). But if they get up before 6, the milk and yogurt is not on the table.
Hi David, I’m impressed with the breakfast spread you provide … well done. I’ve previously served there as Voluntary Hispitalero and we didn’t have the budget to do so. Are you financing this yourself or do you get budget?
 
Yes this is definitely a very interesting thread, thank you @David Tallan

I was planning to stay in the Salamanca albergue when I started my Camino in September and was looking forward to it. However I developed a nasty cold so had a single room in Hotel Condal instead.

After 5 days walking I had developed a bursitis at the base of my Achilles and chose to quit. It felt like my name just wasn't on this path at this time.

Salamanca is certainly a great place to be stationed. Your photos show me all the places I missed seeing ;)
 
I will add in a few I took last night from the garden.
Beautiful night time pictures! You have the view without the cost.
Here is mine this past spring in Salamanca from my hotel room at about 11pm. In the spring I rarely stay up late enough to get night time pictures of ancient prominent buildings.
Screenshot_20241020-040549~2.webp
 
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Hi David, I’m impressed with the breakfast spread you provide … well done. I’ve previously served there as Voluntary Hispitalero and we didn’t have the budget to do so. Are you financing this yourself or do you get budget?
We didn't get the budget. I am financing this myself with a head start from the previous hospitalero who was doing the same thing and left some supplies. I just added the Cola Cao and topped up what she left.
 
I didn't get that memo and there were other visitors who didn't either. It is a wonderful building though.
The Café used to be great… but not so when there recently.

Pilgrims may not get a discount but ‘jubilados’ do!

I did notIMG_0124.webpIMG_0120.webpIMG_0118.webp get the photo veto notice either…

Ps the vintage car Museum further down by the river is also great fun!
 
Sunday 20 October 2024

Today is French day here in Salamanca. So far (it is about 5:00 pm) we have 6 pilgrims, all from France. One who is staying over from yesterday, a French woman who has been walking the Mozarabe but seems to have jumped ahead from Cordoba to Salamanca, and a family of four (with 4 year old twins) who are starting their bicycle pilgrimage here and heading towards Ourense. But once again I am getting ahead of myself.

I went to bed at about 10:30 last night, leaving the Argentinian pilgrim reading downstairs. This time I set the breakfast up before going to bed and she turned out the lights before she headed to bed.

After seeing the pilgrims off this morning and cleaning the albergue, I set off for a lunch time appointment with a couple of friends whom I had made last year while walking the Camino de San Salvador. When I knew I was coming to Salamanca, where they live, I let them know by WhatsApp. He made a very nice tortilla while she made a nice ensalada mixta. I was keeping a close eye on his technique. They were served with a variety of cheeses, some jamon (of course), and breads. Afterwards, we visited the Botanical Gardens and the Urban Gardens, where they have a small plot to grow some fruits and vegetables (including the tomatoes that went into the sandwich). We took a nice little walk by the river and then the brought me back to the albergue. It has been quiet since then, except for the arrival of the 5 new pilgrims mentioned above. One thing that happened, though, is I had a nice visit and chat with someone who had read my posts in the Camino de Santiago sub-reddit and was passing through Salamanca.

Photos: the river (taken from the Roman bridge, a nice tortilla, the Botanical Gardens (×2), the Urban Gardens, me pointing the way to the albergue).
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Sunday 20 October 2024

Today is French day here in Salamanca. So far (it is about 5:00 pm) we have 6 pilgrims, all from France.
When I was on the VdlP on my first camino in June 2012, I rarely had more than one companion in an albergue, the exception being El Real de la Jara where 5 others showed up, all French. I remember the experience being rather stressful at our shared dinner (cooked by two of the ladies) because none of the group spoke English, and I had to desperately resurrect my almost-forgotten French, learned 60 years previously. How are you faring in this context? Maybe being from Canada helps.
 
The Café used to be great… but not so when there recently.

Pilgrims may not get a discount but ‘jubilados’ do!

I did notView attachment 179401View attachment 179402View attachment 179403 get the photo veto notice either…

Ps the vintage car Museum further down by the river is also great fun!
.. and here are a few ‘authorised’ shots of ‘old timers’ as they call them fondly in Germany! The Automobile Museum is closed on Mondays - unlike the Museo Lis.

The Albergue in Salamanca is a favourite. Perfect location and that elevated adjoining refuge of a garden: ideal as one awaits opening time! Thank you David for your devotion and input..

IMG_8682.webpIMG_8689.webpIMG_8688.webpIMG_8677.webpIMG_8686.webpIMG_8685.webp
 
When I was on the VdlP on my first camino in June 2012, I rarely had more than one companion in an albergue, the exception being El Real de la Jara where 5 others showed up, all French. I remember the experience being rather stressful at our shared dinner (cooked by two of the ladies) because none of the group spoke English, and I had to desperately resurrect my almost-forgotten French, learned 60 years previously. How are you faring in this context? Maybe being from Canada helps.
My French is not nearly as good as it was before starting to learn Spanish. Now, whenever I seek a word or expression in French my Spanish (un)fortunately appears and says "Oh, you seem to be looking for a foreign language. Here I am!".
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
As I describe it, my brain seems to have only one foreign language channel.
I like to hope that at some point, years from now, I will be fluent enough in Spanish that it will no longer self-identify as a foreign language and then I can start learning French like a good Canadian.
 
@David Tallan

You are very patient!

That Spanish man and his self-centred lack of respect illustrate the reasons for rules within albergues.
Hopefully one day he’ll come across a hospitalero/a who’ll give him directions to the nearest hotel. As a supposed ex-hospitalero himself, you’d imagine he’d realise that his disregard for the well-being of others might mean a short night’s sleep for you and the other pilgrims.
I wouldn’t like to be a pilgrim in any albergue where he was the host!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
My French is not nearly as good as it was before starting to learn Spanish. Now, whenever I seek a word or expression in French my Spanish (un)fortunately appears and says "Oh, you seem to be looking for a foreign language. Here I am!".
I am having exactly this problem learning Portuguese. Because I had basic Spanish from years of travelling in Mexico, my Spanish pops up. Very disconcerting for the Portuguese person I'm talking with. High-school French, on the other hand, is a help rather than a hindrance. I think because the grammatical structures "pounded" in over 6 years--verb structures, number and gender agreement with nouns, etc. are really useful with learning proper Portuguese, whereas the Spanish I learned was basically nouns and a few adjectives--nothing grammatical.

Interesting how these things work, for non-Romance-language speakers.
 
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Each time I’ve tackled a new foreign language, it always ‘cements’ the previous one.
It’s weird 🤔

I can’t get to grips with Dutch or German, no matter how hard I try.

Romance languages are always easier - thank you, high school Latin!!

I can make a good attempt at understanding an academic treatise on the Gospel of St. John (in Spanish) but I can’t ‘hear’ Spanish, nor can I speak it, apart from a few basics.
If I put enough effort into learning it, my Welsh might improve … who knows?
 

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