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LIVE from the Camino Lisbon to Porto

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Morning Forum,

I'm heading to Lisbon on Saturday and intend to walk along the Caminho from there, depending on the situation with Hostels, Albergues, etc. I've two nights booked in central Lisbon.

It's been such a terrible year ... I'm finding it impossible to recall the last truly "Camino" experience (Fulda to Metz) I had.

A bit of Serendipity occurred yesterday though ... Graham Greene Monsignor Quixote from a "reopened" second hand bookstore which reminded me of Alicante to Salamanca last November/December and reopened my positive feelings.

I've been so dispirited and I know I'm not alone...
 
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jungleboy

Spirit of the Camino (Nick)
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés 2017
Primitivo 2018
Madrid 2019
Kumano Kodo 2019
Português 2020
Good luck! You might need it. Some relevant information regarding the current situation:

- There is a curfew throughout most of Portugal, including Lisbon, from 11pm-5am on weekdays and 1pm-5am on Saturdays and Sundays. This 1pm curfew will also apply next Tuesday (8 Dec), a public holiday.
- On Saturday, measures for the next several weeks will be announced, with restrictions expected to be in place until at least 7 January.
- The Portuguese government website for its coronavirus response, including current restrictions in English, is Estamos On.
- Municipal albergues in Portugal are closed, so early on in your camino this will include Alpriate, Azambuja and Santarém.
- Things have changed since I walked the CP from Lisbon in Sep-Oct (i.e. more restrictions now), but here is my article outlining How a Pandemic Camino is Different.
- If you're interested in general about the Lisbon-Porto section of this camino (highlights and whether it's worth it), it's the subject of Episode 1.3 of our Spirit of the Camino podcast.
 
Last edited:

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Good luck! You might need it. Some relevant information regarding the current situation:

- There is a curfew throughout most of Portugal, including Lisbon, from 11pm-5am on weekdays and 1pm-5am on Saturdays and Sundays. This 1pm curfew will also apply next Tuesday (8 Dec), a public holiday.
- On Saturday, measures for the next several weeks will be announced, with restrictions expected to be in place until at least 7 January.
- The Portuguese government website for its coronavirus response, including current restrictions in English, is Estamos On.
- Municipal albergues in Portugal are closed, so early on in your camino this will include Alpriate, Azambuja and Santarém.
- Things have changed since I walked the CP in Sep-Oct (i.e. more restrictions now), but here is my article outlining How a Pandemic Camino is Different.
- If you're interested in general about the Lisbon-Porto section of this camino (highlights and whether it's worth it), it's the subject of Episode 1.3 of our Spirit of the Camino podcast.
The curfew ... On a Saturday. I'm not arriving in Portugal until 20:15pm. Am I allowed to transit to my accommodation?
 

jungleboy

Spirit of the Camino (Nick)
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés 2017
Primitivo 2018
Madrid 2019
Kumano Kodo 2019
Português 2020
The curfew ... On a Saturday. I'm not arriving in Portugal until 20:15pm. Am I allowed to transit to my accommodation?
I believe so. Returning home is one of the exceptions to the curfew, so that's what you would be doing, in a sense.
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Good luck! You might need it. Some relevant information regarding the current situation:

- There is a curfew throughout most of Portugal, including Lisbon, from 11pm-5am on weekdays and 1pm-5am on Saturdays and Sundays. This 1pm curfew will also apply next Tuesday (8 Dec), a public holiday.
- On Saturday, measures for the next several weeks will be announced, with restrictions expected to be in place until at least 7 January.
- The Portuguese government website for its coronavirus response, including current restrictions in English, is Estamos On.
- Municipal albergues in Portugal are closed, so early on in your camino this will include Alpriate, Azambuja and Santarém.
- Things have changed since I walked the CP from Lisbon in Sep-Oct (i.e. more restrictions now), but here is my article outlining How a Pandemic Camino is Different.
- If you're interested in general about the Lisbon-Porto section of this camino (highlights and whether it's worth it), it's the subject of Episode 1.3 of our Spirit of the Camino podcast.
Alpriate is the first etape. I get a little worried when you said the Municipal Albergues are closed. I see there is a hostel in Vila Franca but is that too far for one etape?
 

natefaith

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
Sarria-Santiago (2009)
León-Ponferrada (2014)
Camino Inglés (2017)
Hi @futurefjp, in fact many albergues are closed now as so few pilgrims are on the trails. Pilgrims in October reported that sometimes it even was hard to find food in the small towns (on the Camino Francés) they passed through - bars and restaurants would be closed so they had to take taxis to larger towns further down the road and then taxi back. It was hard to count on anything (bars and albergues) being open, and in October and November pilgrims who walked with a tent found it easier to continue on.

Are you hoping to make it to Santiago this time or will you stick to Portugal? As an FYI, this holiday weekend the border between Portugal and Spain is closed. This may signal that it will be closed again for the Christmas holiday.

And in Spain, the Spanish government is restricting movement between autonomous regions between Dec 23 and Jan 6 (without saying anything about closing borders between Spain and neighboring countries):


"Despite the appeal to avoid travel, the plan will allow movement across regional lines between December 23 and January 6, as long as these trips are made to visit relatives or close friends. Illa said that this definition includes not only direct family members but also people with whom “strong bonds of affection” exist. Outside of these exceptions, borders are to remain sealed according to the plan."

However, it seems closing borders between the autonomous regions within Spain may be hard to enforce. The restrictions are aimed at having people avoid gathering and avoiding mixing together, but I'm not sure what it will mean for the Camino if they really do seal the borders.

I say all this not to scare you off :) but to give you the reality of the Camino right now. National and local restrictions, regional border closings, and business openings have been constantly changing for a few months now, which has made undertaking the Camino difficult for some of the pilgrims we met this fall. I guess flexibility is the key! And being able to pivot and adjust in case a town doesn't have what you need.

Take care and hope it goes well for you!
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Hi @futurefjp, in fact many albergues are closed now as so few pilgrims are on the trails. Pilgrims in October reported that sometimes it even was hard to find food in the small towns (on the Camino Francés) they passed through - bars and restaurants would be closed so they had to take taxis to larger towns further down the road and then taxi back. It was hard to count on anything (bars and albergues) being open, and in October and November pilgrims who walked with a tent found it easier to continue on.

Are you hoping to make it to Santiago this time or will you stick to Portugal? As an FYI, this holiday weekend the border between Portugal and Spain is closed. This may signal that it will be closed again for the Christmas holiday.

And in Spain, the Spanish government is restricting movement between autonomous regions between Dec 23 and Jan 6 (without saying anything about closing borders between Spain and neighboring countries):


"Despite the appeal to avoid travel, the plan will allow movement across regional lines between December 23 and January 6, as long as these trips are made to visit relatives or close friends. Illa said that this definition includes not only direct family members but also people with whom “strong bonds of affection” exist. Outside of these exceptions, borders are to remain sealed according to the plan."

However, it seems closing borders between the autonomous regions within Spain may be hard to enforce. The restrictions are aimed at having people avoid gathering and avoiding mixing together, but I'm not sure what it will mean for the Camino if they really do seal the borders.

I say all this not to scare you off :) but to give you the reality of the Camino right now. National and local restrictions, regional border closings, and business openings have been constantly changing for a few months now, which has made undertaking the Camino difficult for some of the pilgrims we met this fall. I guess flexibility is the key! And being able to pivot and adjust in case a town doesn't have what you need.

Take care and hope it goes well for you!
Hi natefaith,

I wasn't considering crossing into Spain. I don't think I have the time or funds to go the whole way, but Porto was my original hope... I've been looking at Youth Hostel locations along the way too...
 

jungleboy

Spirit of the Camino (Nick)
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés 2017
Primitivo 2018
Madrid 2019
Kumano Kodo 2019
Português 2020
Alpriate is the first etape. I get a little worried when you said the Municipal Albergues are closed. I see there is a hostel in Vila Franca but is that too far for one etape?
VFX is 40+km from Lisbon. An option between Alpriate and VFX is Alverca do Ribatejo. See my live thread for accommodation info from September.
 

natefaith

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
Sarria-Santiago (2009)
León-Ponferrada (2014)
Camino Inglés (2017)
Hi natefaith,

I wasn't considering crossing into Spain. I don't think I have the time or funds to go the whole way, but Porto was my original hope... I've been looking at Youth Hostel locations along the way too...

Good thought about youth hostels! Keep us posted on what you find and on your experience (when you get the chance).
 
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Camino de Santiago pendent that has a shell on the front, and "Camino de Santiago" engraved on the back. Comes with a black cord. Pendent is slightly larger than a 50 euro cent coin, about 25mm.
Camino Way Markers
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Good thought about youth hostels! Keep us posted on what you find and on your experience (when you get the chance).
In January I walked from Cascais to Santa Cruz along the coast perhaps I might be best continuing along the coast as there are more Hostels, Backpackers and Campsites...Peniche looks interesting too
 

hughb

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Norte June 2013 plus Finisterre
Norrte 2015
Ingles 2016
Portuguese 2018 and 2019
Fatima routes
Morning Forum,

I'm heading to Lisbon on Saturday and intend to walk along the Caminho from there, depending on the situation with Hostels, Albergues, etc. I've two nights booked in central Lisbon.

It's been such a terrible year ... I'm finding it impossible to recall the last truly "Camino" experience (Fulda to Metz) I had.

A bit of Serendipity occurred yesterday though ... Graham Greene Monsignor Quixote from a "reopened" second hand bookstore which reminded me of Alicante to Salamanca last November/December and reopened my positive feelings.

I've been so dispirited and I know I'm not alone...
I hope that you realise that it is illegal to walk between municipalities for the next two weekends from Friday midnight to Tuesday morning at 6.00a.m. Bom caminho
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
I hope that you realise that it is illegal to walk between municipalities for the next two weekends from Friday midnight to Tuesday morning at 6.00a.m. Bom caminho
A policeman I just spoke to said I'm OK to walk. Also I'm technically in "transit" the entire time until I reach Santiago? Just because the modern world takes transit to mean train, bus or car forgets we were born with thighs, legs and plates of meat(feet)... But we shall see.
 
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jungleboy

Spirit of the Camino (Nick)
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés 2017
Primitivo 2018
Madrid 2019
Kumano Kodo 2019
Português 2020

Make sure you check the weather because it doesn’t look good on the coast in the coming days. I’m getting notifications about potential disruptions in Lisbon due to a ‘coastal event’ - looks like big waves and rain. Stay safe and bom caminho.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Make sure you check the weather because it doesn’t look good on the coast in the coming days. I’m getting notifications about potential disruptions in Lisbon due to a ‘coastal event’ - looks like big waves and rain. Stay safe and bom caminho.
The weather never looks good... What am I to do with all of these negative vibes!

OK it's December, but the weather in Portugal isn't "traditionally" Northern European so I can cope.

Oh dear, I forgot a pair of Waterproof trousers... Perhaps it was subconscious as I hate wearing them when it gets dry...
 

lovingkindness

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
.
Hi there @futurefjp, if you chance upon other pilgrims along the way, consider renting an apartment together each day eg Air b&B or asking the locals.This worked well in Spain for a friend of mine this summer. He said it was super-inexpensive.

Buen Camino!
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Hi there @futurefjp, if you chance upon other pilgrims along the way, consider renting an apartment together each day eg Air b&B or asking the locals.This worked well in Spain for a friend of mine this summer. He said it was super-inexpensive.

Buen Camino!
I have one question ... Is there somewhere I can get a credential in Lisbon as my last one is on its final page...
 

lovingkindness

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
.
I have one question ... Is there somewhere I can get a credential in Lisbon as my last one is on its final page...
... I carry a stash of copied blank credential pages in my pack plus celotape to stick them on to the last page of credential just in case the journey lasts longer than the number of blank squares for stamps or I haven't found an extra credential mid journey. I print off pages from the scan attached below....

Cheers
 

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jungleboy

Spirit of the Camino (Nick)
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés 2017
Primitivo 2018
Madrid 2019
Kumano Kodo 2019
Português 2020
Sé cathedral?
Yes. Sé is short for the Portuguese sede, meaning headquarters (i.e. the seat of the bishop), so that’s why a cathedral in Portugal is called a Sé. There’s a shop on the left as you go in that sells credentials.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
... I carry a stash of copied blank credential pages in my pack plus celotape to stick them on to the last page of credential just in case the journey lasts longer than the number of blank squares for stamps or I haven't found an extra credential mid journey. I print off pages from the scan attached below....

Cheers
I do this too, but feel hideous afterwards... Joke
Yes. Sé is short for the Portuguese sede, meaning headquarters (i.e. the seat of the bishop), so that’s why a cathedral in Portugal is called a Sé. There’s a shop on the left as you go in that sells credentials.
I got my credentials
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Stopped for "repase" @ Restaurante Candizé in Parede and hope to reach Caiscas before curfew at 1500hrs
 
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hughb

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Norte June 2013 plus Finisterre
Norrte 2015
Ingles 2016
Portuguese 2018 and 2019
Fatima routes
A policeman I just spoke to said I'm OK to walk. Also I'm technically in "transit" the entire time until I reach Santiago? Just because the modern world takes transit to mean train, bus or car forgets we were born with thighs, legs and plates of meat(feet)... But we shall see.
Thank you for your kind support of the country that you are visiting. Thank you for trying to bend the rules. Thank you for your support to the local population. It is people like you that are really welcome.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Thank you for your kind support of the country that you are visiting. Thank you for trying to bend the rules. Thank you for your support to the local population. It is people like you that are really welcome.
If you read the rules you'd realise Non-residents are exempt - '- movements of non-resident citizens to places of proven stay.'

In the past two days I've spoken to at least 4 police - whenever I was near one (and socially distanced) - and not one has objected to my walking the Caminho.

But aside from this you must understand "no" peregrino goes out of his way to upset people, but it happens.

...

I got wound up in this conflict when all I meant to say was Feliz Natal!
 
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Terry Callery

Chi Walker
Year of past OR future Camino
"Portuguese Camino"
"Slow Camino"
"The First Pilgrim"
All on Amazon
We pilgrims get a lot of slack from others.
Both locals and other pilgrims.

They give us discounts at their hotels.
Sometimes they do our laundry for free.
Pilgrims help others lug their stuff.
They (locals) put out water for us.
Other walkers-- kindly listen to our problems.
They share food - on the trail.
Locals might give a pilgrim a ride-- when they would never pick up a local hitchhiker.
They-- fellow pilgrims -encouge us --when we need support.
They become instant friends -
The Camino is more human - more connected - more soulful than anywhere you ever go in your life.

It is so much different to the "us and them" world we all live in.
Kindness is a quinessential part of the Camino experience.
It is like a another world - another reality.

I wish I was walking with you!

Have a great voyage!
 

Terry Callery

Chi Walker
Year of past OR future Camino
"Portuguese Camino"
"Slow Camino"
"The First Pilgrim"
All on Amazon
Yes. Sé is short for the Portuguese sede, meaning headquarters (i.e. the seat of the bishop), so that’s why a cathedral in Portugal is called a Sé. There’s a shop on the left as you go in that sells credentials.
The word “Sé” refers to the governing center, or “seat,” of the district where the church is located. The Vatican is therefore located at the Holy See in Rome, or the “holy chair,” designating an ecclesiastical jurisdiction.

The Sé Cathedral’s construction began in the twelfth century, and the cathedral was built in the prevailing Romanesque style; however, after many centuries of renovations and additions, it is a mix of architectural styles.

The façade of the Sé do Porto is flanked by two monumental square towers—crowned with Baroque cupolas—they command the space below and give the structure the look of a fortified castle. I saw a stone stairway leading to the entrance--- which affords a panoramic view of the city below.

Looking up at the façade, my eyes were drawn to the mandala-like Romanesque rose window seemed like a giant Cyclops.

I is an amazing church! Must visit when in Porto
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
We pilgrims get a lot of slack from others.
Both locals and other pilgrims.

They give us discounts at their hotels.
Sometimes they do our laundry for free.
Pilgrims help others lug their stuff.
They (locals) put out water for us.
Other walkers-- kindly listen to our problems.
They share food - on the trail.
Locals might give a pilgrim a ride-- when they would never pick up a local hitchhiker.
They-- fellow pilgrims -encouge us --when we need support.
They become instant friends -
The Camino is more human - more connected - more soulful than anywhere you ever go in your life.

It is so much different to the "us and them" world we all live in.
Kindness is a quinessential part of the Camino experience.
It is like a another world - another reality.

I wish I was walking with you!

Have a great voyage!
Terry,

I've so many years experience of the charm of fellow pilgrims and by those we encounter who aren't but happen to be in our "way" precisely when needed. There is kindnesses in buckets full!

Of course I am a little nervous this time out, with the situation regards Covid, and expect at any moment to be dragged away by the "Polícia Municipal" for being a peregrino.

Yesterday was a lot of walking in urban surrounding with its tedium and the pain attach to those cobbles! Hopefully today is more rural up to Sintra. Curfew today is at 1pm so I think I must be there by then too... Trust me to set off on the weekend of a national holiday (feast of the immaculate conception).
 
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Terry Callery

Chi Walker
Year of past OR future Camino
"Portuguese Camino"
"Slow Camino"
"The First Pilgrim"
All on Amazon
The trick to walking on the cobbled roads in Portugal -- is to walk at the extreem edge of the road.
Were the Cobbles are covered with sand and dirt - way less irregular pressure on the feet. Flatter there.
Go to the sides of the roads/ do not walk up the middle.

It is not a sin--- to take a taxi or a train to skip conjested urban areas -or to cut your 30 km route down - I called a taxi from a bar several times - when I was done (63 years old) to bring me to the next town--after 20 km when I had had enough. Did not cared to walk another 10km.
It is not supposed to be the Baatan Death March - SLOW is better.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
The trick to walking on the cobbled roads in Portugal -- is to walk at the extreem edge of the road.
Were the Cobbles are covered with sand and dirt - way less irregular pressure on the feet. Flatter there.
Go to the sides of the roads/ do not walk up the middle.

It is not a sin--- to take a taxi or a train to skip conjested urban areas -or to cut your 30 km route down - I called a taxi from a bar several times - when I was done (63 years old) to bring me to the next town--after 20 km when I had had enough. Did not cared to walk another 10km.
It is not supposed to be the Baatan Death March - SLOW is better.
I am mainly walking on the road when I'm in urban settings
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
The trick to walking on the cobbled roads in Portugal -- is to walk at the extreem edge of the road.
Were the Cobbles are covered with sand and dirt - way less irregular pressure on the feet. Flatter there.
Go to the sides of the roads/ do not walk up the middle.

It is not a sin--- to take a taxi or a train to skip conjested urban areas -or to cut your 30 km route down - I called a taxi from a bar several times - when I was done (63 years old) to bring me to the next town--after 20 km when I had had enough. Did not cared to walk another 10km.
It is not supposed to be the Baatan Death March - SLOW is better.
I've taken buses or hitched, but not yet a taxi as that really is an absolute drain on valuable funds.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Don't try to walk Caiscas to Sintra before Curfew. It's a tough slog anyhow up to the Serra de Sintra and I wouldn't recommend the entire distance without a definite repase.
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Don't try to walk Caiscas to Sintra before Curfew. It's a tough slog anyhow up to the Serra de Sintra and I wouldn't recommend the entire distance without a definite repase.
So what did you do, @futurefjp? Are you in Sintra? Looking forward to hearing more.

Are you planning to take the caminho do mar or what some would call the “real” coastal route (because of the fact that the Caminho do Mar is really not much along the coast at all — I think they call this one Trilhas do Mar, but I am not sure).

Stay safe, peregrino.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
So what did you do, @futurefjp? Are you in Sintra? Looking forward to hearing more.

Are you planning to take the caminho do mar or what some would call the “real” coastal route (because of the fact that the Caminho do Mar is really not much along the coast at all — I think they call this one Trilhas do Mar, but I am not sure).

Stay safe, peregrino.
I'm in Sintra and I am in a foul mood! The curfew today absolutely wiped my happiness as I struggled to reach here before 1pm(and failed), but I'm sure it's a blip?

Good question about the direction... I sure want to go to Mafra from Sintra, as in January I walked up the coast from Cascais to Santa Cruz, but I don't want to fall foul of accommodation gripes if I stray away from the coast.

If I can find a place to sleep in Mafra I will, otherwise I'll head to Ericeira, again. Any help with a place to sleep on a tight budget in Mafra ... Another post mentioned the Casa de Misericordia offering a bed?
 

Terry Callery

Chi Walker
Year of past OR future Camino
"Portuguese Camino"
"Slow Camino"
"The First Pilgrim"
All on Amazon
Those winter Caminos are tough - but you are tougher----
I did three in Febuary -

Caminos were deserted in the winter - very lonely.
Eventually=== you will conect to others and they will lift you up.
Call ahead to Booking.com - Take a taxi and skip a section if no accomdations.
Go to Gronze to find potential places.

Maybe a bit out of your price range - nice to stay at good hotel - once in a while

Vila Mafra​


3-star hotel
R. Domingos Dias Machado 11C, 2640-534 Mafra, Portugal•+351 927 557 594


Website



Directions
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Those winter Caminos are tough - but you are tougher----
I did three in Febuary -

Caminos were deserted in the winter - very lonely.
Eventually=== you will conect to others and they will lift you up.
Call ahead to Booking.com - Take a taxi and skip a section if no accomdations.
Go to Gronze to find potential places.

Maybe a bit out of your price range - nice to stay at good hotel - once in a while

Vila Mafra​


3-star hotel
R. Domingos Dias Machado 11C, 2640-534 Mafra, Portugal•+351 927 557 594
Website
Directions
Probably out of my price range. But once in a while I do "upgrade". I'm not sure after only 2 days I should upgrade. I was seriously hoping for 14 whole days of walking so spending more than strictly necessary on accommodation restricts that dream...

I rarely struggle with loneliness as I like peace and solitude on Camino; what I actually am struggling with is the three Backpacker hostels I've stayed in. I'm just too old to appreciate loud monotonous music now and I like silence from the time it's dark outside - but I know these are dreams.
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Oh those barriers to a good night's sleep ... Prices! I'm on the bus from Mafra to Ericeira to sleep @ Boa Vista Selina for €10 (much better that €50).

The lady from the local association says I should be OK in Caldas da Rainha for an Albergue.

Gosh it was tough going this morning ... Muddy!
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
My heart says yes, but my head says no. As the rain pours outside my window I feel a pause is in order ... But whether I stay put for another night or head to Caldas da Rainha or Òbidos on a bus to set off again on Friday? And I've Saturday and Sunday Curfew to deal with too. This really isn't a rational pilgrimage time!
 
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Wendy Werneth

Pilgrim
Year of past OR future Camino
2020
@futurefjp Good choice! Óbidos is a beautiful little town, and there's more to do there than you might think. Even on a rainy day, it's got several small museums and a huge number of bookstores for such a small place.

Be sure not to miss the bookstore inside the deconsecrated chapel to the left of the castle. It looks just like a typical church from the outside, but on the inside, it's full of books. You can find some more suggestions on sights and activities in Óbidos in this article from my travel blog.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
@futurefjp Good choice! Óbidos is a beautiful little town, and there's more to do there than you might think. Even on a rainy day, it's got several small museums and a huge number of bookstores for such a small place.

Be sure not to miss the bookstore inside the deconsecrated chapel to the left of the castle. It looks just like a typical church from the outside, but on the inside, it's full of books. You can find some more suggestions on sights and activities in Óbidos in this article from my travel blog.
I've decided to have a break here as I've struggled, like a maniac, to find a bed for the night ... Since Lisbon.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
CF 2014, CF 2018, CP 2019 from Coimbra
Wishing you well. I had to stay in Caldas da Rainha last year for medical reasons after I finished my pilgrimage. You are seeing similarly wet conditions to those I had almost all the way. If you can get to Caldas da Rainha, it struck me last year as a town with much to offer even though I saw only the OESTE hospital and the market nearby. I recall wishing that I could return under better circumstances.
Are you heading for the coast? Or will you stay inland?
I walked from Coimbra up, and while I had intended to be on the coastal route, weather pushed all of us inward (there were about 12-15 out there by the time I made it up to Barcelos, and all had turned inland...
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Today's rain was perpetual. But I was brought dripping and miserable to The Hostel Argonauta: back to normal and away from the "surfer hostels" along the coast. So I've decided to have a few days here.

Hopefully the heavy and relentless downpour will clear to give me a crystal clear day tomorrow as I walk to Caldas da Rainha for groceries: on this Camino I distinctly told myself "you must find a retreat" and, low, it found me - as Javier let me in from the rain - and then Marcelo gave me a pleasing rate until Monday (when curfew is over again) and I can continue in some fashion towards Porto?

This morning I felt utter fatigue from the long heavy muddy wet tiring walk Wednesday - the descending into Carvalhal was one of the most difficult I've ever experienced in 7 years of Camino - and the absence of adequate accommodation between Lisboa and Mafra was really playing on my fragile state of mind...

My feet crossed the threshold hesitantly into The Argonauta fearing another anticlimax, but these real "home from home" hostel do still exist in a world of commercial non-entities...

Ulterïa indeed...
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Saturday morning is the same as Friday morning and Thursday morning...

Rain like this takes away my spirit and leaves me dulled and fatigued. We retreat inside to "caves" to watch the water pour off the sullen lip. All I can do is hope Monday morning isn't such a wash out for my Camino dreams ...
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Watching with interest! Thinking about doing Lisbon to Porto in Jan.
Beware that all the usual accommodation isn't possible. I would recommend having a couple of days in Òbidos at Hostel Argonauta, as it's directly on the path.

I'm off again tomorrow as there is a blue window until Monday. I feel three nights in Òbidos is too many.
 
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Chef66

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Now
Thank you very much!! Yes I only decided this morning on a whim so no real plans yet. I did Porto to SDC section in June/July and the Camino Frances in July /Aug, and they were very straight forward, but know this will be a total different proposition!! Thanks again!
 

Chef66

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Now
Ah no! I’d didn’t. Thank you very much for pointing out! I will check back through threads! Thanks again!
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Ah no! I’d didn’t. Thank you very much for pointing out! I will check back through threads! Thanks again!
Yes I am on the Caminho do Mar not the usual one which goes north from Lisbon. This way is from Estoril. I did from Sè Cathedral to Mafra, before the absence of accommodation and the rain stopped me in my tracks.

The weather is meant to be better today so I'm leaving Òbidos for Nazare (the way goes near it so it might be a place to find a cheap hostel) or Alcobaça which is generally the etape suggestions on the Caminho do Mar website.
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Definitely heading to Nazaré as there is definitely an interesting ring to its name?

Later I'll decide of I stick with the Caminho do Mar or hop onto the Trilho das Areias.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
From Nazaré there is a two day Caminho to Fatima. Which may make sense tomorrow. Two days 50kms. Should be a sensible short couple of etapes.

Today from Òbidos followed the A8 in the drizzle until, after I ditched the Caminho do Mar and used rural tracks to the bridge crossing point below Casal Mota, the sun shone!

37kms. Exhausted, but I've a double bed in the Hostel Nazaré for €15 - boon?
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Some French pilgrim heading from Fatima down to Sintra etc tell me that finding accommodation between Nazaré and Fatima wasn't easy: they had to leave the path. If I stick to the coast the Senda Litoral has a campsite recommended in São Pedro de Model...
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
I awoke with a start... I thought someone was having a very heavy shower... But no! It's the rain. Coming down heavy. Not the drizzle of the previous few days, no!

I was dreaming of the sun rising over my shoulder as I headed north - closer to Porto. Now? I really don't know.
 
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mai

Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF
Pamplona-S 4/18
SJPP-S-F/M 4/19
SJPP-S. (4/21)
@futurefjp, thank you for sharing your special Portuguese camino with us.
Having visited Lisboa, Sintra, Fatima, Leira, Coimbra and Porto, all beautiful. Will go Portuguese camino in the future, your sharing is helpful.

best wishes and keep safe.

Fatima day & night....amazing
IMAG4578.jpg fullsizeoutput_c80.jpeg
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
I am heading there on January! How is the situation in Portugal?
I'm having to build my own Camino as the Albergues are closed.

Tonight I am in the Orbitur in São Pedro de Moel.

The weather is foul. In January I walked a lot of the same way, but wasn't on a Camino and the weather was much better.

I had sun for an hour this afternoon and I forgot how wonderful walking along the coast is!
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Those winter Caminos are tough - but you are tougher----
I did three in Febuary -

Caminos were deserted in the winter - very lonely.
Eventually=== you will conect to others and they will lift you up.
Call ahead to Booking.com - Take a taxi and skip a section if no accomdations.
Go to Gronze to find potential places.

Maybe a bit out of your price range - nice to stay at good hotel - once in a while

Vila Mafra​


3-star hotel
R. Domingos Dias Machado 11C, 2640-534 Mafra, Portugal•+351 927 557 594
Website
Directions
€80 even without customers...
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Self catering is the way forward. I don't mind solitary existence when the food is so honest and made with love!

The waves last night lulled me to sleep then woke me predawn. The Atlantic Ocean really is immense.

Porridge oats this morning and strong Sical coffee to wash it down.

I wish the rain would move along! Just for one day on this Camino!
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
I have a blister! This is not happening! I knew I brought the wrong boots ... Why didn't I pick the long distance HanWags over the shorter distance, casual-er, Dolomites...

Even after seven years there are some things I always overlook on the Camino - I guess it wouldn't be a Camino without blisters and blinkered stupidity?
 

natefaith

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
Sarria-Santiago (2009)
León-Ponferrada (2014)
Camino Inglés (2017)
You're doing it! Sounds difficult with so much lodging closed down but it's good to hear what you're finding every day.
Buen Camino!
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Logic, and the weather (horrendous), would suggest my final day this trip will be today. As long as I reach Figueira de Foz I reached somewhere ...

Even with those lost 3 days sat in Òbidos, waiting for the storm to pass - which it never did until yesterday (yesterday only!) - and the thunderous clatter of rain on my "teepee" most of the night(which has decided I put on Gaiters (which I loathe!)) to attempt the wetter Way this morning, I would not have reached Porto in 14 days straight.

It is what it is ...

I'm planning on returning to Puy-en-Velay in April, if the Covid situation has dramatically improved, to do the Chemin Saint Jacques to SJPDP...

Must get to Porto on Thursday really to appreciate it? Fly back to the UK, and the Domesday of Brexit, early on Saturday.
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
The trick to walking on the cobbled roads in Portugal -- is to walk at the extreem edge of the road.
Were the Cobbles are covered with sand and dirt - way less irregular pressure on the feet. Flatter there.
Go to the sides of the roads/ do not walk up the middle.

It is not a sin--- to take a taxi or a train to skip conjested urban areas -or to cut your 30 km route down - I called a taxi from a bar several times - when I was done (63 years old) to bring me to the next town--after 20 km when I had had enough. Did not cared to walk another 10km.
It is not supposed to be the Baatan Death March - SLOW is better.
There is no sin
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Screenshot_20201216_184549_com.google.android.apps.fitness.jpg

The very straw which cracked the camel's spine! 42kms in too much rain. Followed by a never-ending bridge crossing at Figueira de Foz!
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Yesterday was a long one, but not unenjoyable. When I reached the Orbitur in Gala, and found it was closed during the week (and even to Peregrinos (a gentleman leaving the premises at the same time as I arrived called his boss who said "no room at this Inn")), I carried on the next 10 kilometres quite happily; knowing this was the final few steps I would be taking.

Somehow I had a spring in my step so I didn't mind the inconvenience of putting more pressure on my toes, feet, ankles, calves, etc, as the sun set in the West and I crossed that monster of a bridge...

***

Yes, that's all folks! For a moment I considered moving my flight back to the 22nd, but really I can't afford the few extra days (and would like to see my Lola now too)!

Figueira de Foz is the largest place I've passed since leaving Lisbon on the 7th, so it certainly needs more than a late night visit to see its "charms".

But I've certainly enjoyed this experience, with its considerable st'rain' and will return in the future to continue towards Santiago. Walking alongside the cliffs is a majestic vista ,always pushing me onwards, and I am in love with the verges along each road side, where the ever present Portuguese clover nods towards the sun.
 
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natefaith

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
Sarria-Santiago (2009)
León-Ponferrada (2014)
Camino Inglés (2017)
What a journey! Your informative posts and updates gave us a really good taste of what it's like to walk now. Glad you made/had a lot of good moments even in the midst of bad weather and closures.
Safe journey home!
 
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Stephen Nicholls

Steve Nicholls, Suffolk, U.K.
Year of past OR future Camino
Too many caminos to list in the permitted 100 characters!!
There is no sin
On my 1st camino I considered it cheating to do anything but walk. On the next six caminos I asked myself .... "If, in medieval times, a pilgrim was offered a lift on the cart of a passing farmer, would he refuse it?" Of course not!
My final camino will hopefully be the short Baix Maestrat over the mountains, where public transport will be impossible. But that isn't until 2022!!!
 

David Tallan

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2018
On my 1st camino I considered it cheating to do anything but walk. On the next six caminos I asked myself .... "If, in medieval times, a pilgrim was offered a lift on the cart of a passing farmer, would he refuse it?" Of course not!
My final camino will hopefully be the short Baix Maestrat over the mountains, where public transport will be impossible. But that isn't until 2022!!!
It was exactly the opposite for me. On my first camino, I was happy to accept just about any and all offers of lifts (and, in fact, regularly sought them out). For my second camino I wanted to try it walking the whole way. But memories of that first camino will always protect me from being too judgemental.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
It was exactly the opposite for me. On my first camino, I was happy to accept just about any and all offers of lifts (and, in fact, regularly sought them out). For my second camino I wanted to try it walking the whole way. But memories of that first camino will always protect me from being too judgemental.
My first Camino was such a haphazard affair. I failed on so many levels, but I persevered and reached Cahors broken, yet excited - it was also the coldest snowiest wettest May ever in the Aubrac. There was an anticyclonic depression directly on me as I fought to St Chely, Aubrac and I got a lift from a baggage guy to Espalion then walked to Estaing Aveyron, but the depression followed me everywhere and I was soaked, lonely and forsaken ...
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
It's great to tuck into a Trappist Rochefort 10 after those crazy days since I left Lisbon on the 7th. If you're ever in Figueira de Foz please pop into/onto the Forte Sta. Catarina as the view of the bay, mouth(Foz) of the river and the sunset push this beautiful Trappist brew into my glowing cheeks, to the tips of my bristles and make me feel worthy.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
Stay @ Hostel 402 in Figueira de Foz. The Host - Luís - made sure I had a room to myself and he also made a sello for passing pilgrims. The kitchen is fantastic and the sunrise put a smile upon my face!

Oh and considering its on the main road, it's quiet ... I slept in! Finally I woke up late! IMG_20201218_075949.jpg Hostel 402
 
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Stephen Nicholls

Steve Nicholls, Suffolk, U.K.
Year of past OR future Camino
Too many caminos to list in the permitted 100 characters!!
Well done! An amazing journey, followed on this site by so many peregrinos. Come back next year in the Spring/summer when the sun is shining!
May God bless each traveller on the camino, keep them safe, and keep their spirits high.
Steve - East Anglia, UK.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Year of past OR future Camino
2013
One too many beers yesterday in Porto - I don't function at all well in big cities when I am not walking through on the Camino.

Oh well, nothing strong black coffee can't resolve...

Heading to the Airport for my 10am flight back to Brexit land. And looking forward to seeing my family and friends over the festive season... Mainly I'm looking forward to a meaningful cuddle with Lola!
 
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