Lisbon to Santiago... What not to miss?

[LesBrass]

I've been feeling a little low for a few weeks. I had a simple operation on my leg when I returned from the Via and it has taken weeks to feel right again... and I think the transition from walking the majestic VdlP to laying on the sofa doing nothing took it's toll.

But... sorting through my photos and the approaching New Year... and returning to full fitness has encouraged me to make some plans... and I've decided that my next camino will be the Portuguese from Lisbon (starting at the end of September). Next year is difficult as we have a lot of other commitments to fit around. I thought I could only take 2 weeks but I believe I can squeeze in the time and my husband can join me from Porto.

I'm now reading all that I can but I'm realising that there are so many options?!

So... as I start my plans which places should I not miss between Lisbon and Santiago? Any must-visit places? Best Albergues? Breath-taking views?

Thanks in advance

 

[peregrina2000]

I may have already pointed you in the direction of the forum guides, but if not, check them out in Resources. One from Lisbon to Porto, one from Porto to Santiago.

There is a new albergue about 20 km from the Cathedral in Lisbon, just opened this year by the Via Lusitana (the Lisbon amigos group) in Alpriate. Very highly recommended. And the other most highly rated albergue, this one north of Porto, is surely Casa Fernanda. You'll see lots and lots of praise heaped on her in this forum.

As far as towns, I will start the list of some not to be missed places

-- Tomar -- monastery perched above town on a hill. Really great.
-- Rabacal's Roman villa, if it is not closed due to budget cuts. There is a little museum in town right next to the albergue, and then there used to be a visit out to the site, where there are some beautiful mosaics.
-- Conimbriga's Roman ruins
-- Coimbra -- ancient university town.
-- Porto -- absolutely beautiful city, do not miss the chance to walk across the river on the pedestrian part along the high rail crossing. The view back over the city is beaugtiful (my avatar shows it in miniature, it is really stunning)
-- Ponte de LIma -- beautiful little town.
-- Valenca/Tui (on either side of the river leaving Portugal and entering Spain
-- Pontevedra -- very nice old town

I'm sure I've forgotten some places, so others can chime in.

 

[LesBrass]

Thanks @peregrina2000 - I will start making a list. There seem to be so many varients that if I can decide on the must-visit places I feel this will guide me to the best route combinations.

(I might also be following you on the Baztan too... we think we can take a week in August and this route seemed the perfect choice... I'm keeping my fingers crossed!)

 

[AcrossTheWater3008]

Hi @LesBrass

Hope you feel better soon..I love the walk from Porto to Santiago.... and I do like Lisbon too. Porto is beautiful, ... and, if you have never been there, it deserves at least 48 hours of attention. I do like walking along the Atlantic coast.... it's beautiful and quite tranquil. I stayed at Angeiras campsite .. has good facilities wt comfortable bungalows for pilgrims - I paid 13€ which I understand its pilgrims rates. I thought Vila de Conde was interesting and I like the albergue... I think I paid 7€ with a€ each for washing and drying, plus the hospi are lovely too. Parvoa de Varzim had great seafood, and the market was lovely. Barcelos is a pretty city (lovely foods too!), but I arrived late ish and left early. I really like Padron with its beautiful convent and history. The hospi at albergue Rossol was a lovely and kind man (he machine washed all my clothes and declined payment! I even went up to Monte Santiaguino where St James preached (featured as the cover of Brierleys book). Ponte de Lima was lovely, so was Pontevedra and Caldas de Reys had lovely thermal spring water and the local church is dedicated to Thomas Beckett... I stayed at Valenca and I thought the walk across to Tui over River Minho was quite profound. The only steep walk was into Rubiaes, otherwise I thought Porto to Santiago was quite flat compared to the Frances.

I apologize that I have jumbled up both Spanish and Portuguese towns together as am writing this without my notes....

This Camino is beautiful, with lots of gorgeous woodlands. I think anybody who has walked this Camino has only had praises for it...

Bom Cominho!

 

[Levi]

Hi LesBrass
Snap! I have my flight to Lisbon booked for 25 March. Looking forward to walking again so much. Hope you're fully recovered soon. Levi (Ruth)

 

[gerardcarey]

And me! Into Lisbon 31st March. As I missed out on Caminoing in 2016 I can't wait. And I figure it's probably one of the warmest places to start a Camino in Spring.
Soft, I am.
Regards and good travelling to all,
Gerard

 

[Camembert]

Anyway whatever you do and if you choose the central route (Porto-São Pedro de Rates, Barcelos etc. don't forget to stay at CASA DA FERNANDA in Vitorino dos Piães. 18 kms from Barcelos directly at the waymarked path to Ponte de Lima.
If you haven't been at Fernanda's, you haven't been on the Caminho Português!
Para tudos do fórum Camino de Santiago.me feliz ano novo 2017

 

[jsalt]

Conimbriga's Roman ruins

This is well worth a visit. Most pilgrims just walk on by, not realising what they are missing. The mosaic floors are fabulous, and there are lots of them. Jill

 

[Deleted member 12253]

I've been feeling a little low for a few weeks. I had a simple operation on my leg when I returned from the Via and it has taken weeks to feel right again... and I think the transition from walking the majestic VdlP to laying on the sofa doing nothing took it's toll.

But... sorting through my photos and the approaching New Year... and returning to full fitness has encouraged me to make some plans... and I've decided that my next camino will be the Portuguese from Lisbon (starting at the end of September). Next year is difficult as we have a lot of other commitments to fit around. I thought I could only take 2 weeks but I believe I can squeeze in the time and my husband can join me from Porto.

I'm now reading all that I can but I'm realising that there are so many options?!

So... as I start my plans which places should I not miss between Lisbon and Santiago? Any must-visit places? Best Albergues? Breath-taking views?

Thanks in advance

Fatima. 100 years anniversary. 3 days out of Lisbon. Follow blue arrows

 

[brickthomas]

June/July 2016 my wife and I hiked and trained between Lisbon and Porto. From Porto we walked to Muxia. My favorite towns were Tomar, Coimbra, Pointe de Lima. The stretch from Porto northward we found more enjoyable to hike than the Lisbon to Porto segment. I hope you healthy and strong soon. I am currently writing about the hike at https://brickthomasblog.wordpress.com.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Town highlights are well covered.
Pasteis de Nata is a food highlight.
And two accommodations we loved - Quinta Estrada Romana (about 11km shy of Tui - beautiful farmhouse, delicious meal, interesting host) and the monastery at Herbon (monastery tour, evening service, humble meal).

(Edited to override silly autocorrect!)

 

[Anemone del Camino]

In Barcelos, there is a church with bneautiful azulejos inside. A fabulous contrast with the rest of the church's austerity.

https://pt.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Igreja_Matriz_de_Barcelos

In Pontevedra there are a number of outstanding restaurants, though pricey. You may want to look into some of those. Also in Pontevedra there's the Peregrina's Chapel at the entrance of town, a chapel in the shape of a shell. Just past it there's there is a monastery with a church well worth a visit.

And I strongly recommend the Variante Espiritual that will take you to the Poio monastery, the mist precious fishing village of Combarro (and outrageously expensive summer rental summer vacation homes) with its seaside horreos, the Armenteira mosnastery and the movie set worthy scenary of the Ruta de Piedra & Agua. You will find flyers about the variante is just about all albergues, as well as on line if you google.

 

[amorfati1]

you might like to view the fotos i've posted from the May 2014 camino from Lisboa to SdC -
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/camino-photos/users/amorfati1.22497/
most of the images are labeled - if you like something in particular - pl let me know and i might be able to explain/provide more info.

i loved the walks through the woodlands and fields -
- and as places to visit - i enjoyed Santarem, most certainly Tomar (stayed two nights) - the monastery Santa Isabel (before Coimbra) -
also stayed two nights in Porto - great city to explore.
i really treasured to walk through nature - often felt as if stepping / walking through, what i called: "Tolkien territory".


happy planning - bom caminho!

 

[Camembert]

Town highlights are well covered.
Pasteis de Maya is a food highlight.
And two accommodations we loved - Quinta Estrada Romana (about 11km shy of Tui - beautiful farmhouse, delicious meal, interesting host) and the monastery at Herbon (monastery tour, evening service, humble meal).

Pasteís de nata which Rachel meant or when you are in Lisbon , pasteís de Belèm!

 

[Camembert]

Anyway whatever you do and if you choose the central route (Porto-São Pedro de Rates, Barcelos etc. don't forget to stay at CASA DA FERNANDA in Vitorino dos Piães. 18 kms from Barcelos directly at the waymarked path to Ponte de Lima.
If you haven't been at Fernanda's, you haven't been on the Caminho Português!
Para tudos do fórum Camino de Santiago.me feliz ano novo 2017

 

[Camembert]

And if you arrive in Barcelos, take a day off, take the bus or train and half an hour later you are in Braga.
Go to the tourist office in the center and ask how to get (by bus !) to the sanctuary Bom Jesus do Monte .world heritage place. Beautiful view over Braga .

 

[LesBrass]

Thanks for all the replies folks. Last night I started to get cold feet about this route and it's road walking but re-reading your comments and the places you mention has re-ignited my interest. I do love Portugal and Lisbon and I think I will just have to bite the bullet and embrace the roads.

The suggestions sound wonderful... we love the idea of walking by some of the coast so I think perhaps the Porto variant might scratch this itch maybe? I think I need a spreadsheet and a map.

 

[Ray J]

Porto recommendations:
1. Take a motorcycle sidecar tour with Side Ride Tours http://side-ride.pt/en/ . We didn’t know about/go on it until the night before we left, which was unfortunate because our driver showed us many places we wish we’d known about. It’s a great way to get a feel for the city.

2. A tour of a Port winery is worth the time. We went on the Ferreira tour and really enjoyed it.

3. Good place to stay in Porto: Nice Way Hostel http://nicewayhostels.com/porto/ . Only open for two weeks when we were there, so they were still working out some kinks, but I’m sure they’re good to go now. Nice place (as all the Nice Way Hostels we stayed at were), very centrally located.

In Tui, the San Clemente Alburgue is worth checking out. We got a private room upstairs for cheap, they have laundry facilities, there's a large garden area, and best of all (for us, anyway) it's right on the trail on the northern edge of town which makes for an easy and quick getaway.

We pushed on past Padron and stayed in Esclavitud, Spain at the Casa Grande da Capellania http://www.casagrandedacapellania.es/ for our last night on the trail. It’s the former rectory for the church next door, family owned and run for generations. BTW, by staying there instead of Padron, it makes for a nice easy day into Santiago. This place is comfortable and homey, and the proprietor will cook you a dinner that’s fantastic. Great place to stay…unless you’re sensitive to noise ‘cause it is very close to a busy highway. It didn’t bother us, but that’s just us, so your mileage may vary. It is literally right on top of the trail – five steps out the door and you’re on it.

In Santiago, our favorite hotel (we stayed there last year after doing the Frances, too), is the Hotel Costa Vella http://www.costavella.com/ Roberto, the proprietor, will do everything he can to make your stay enjoyable. Even if you don’t stay there, it has a beautiful garden area that can’t be beat which will help calm your mind after days of hiking.

 

[amorfati1]

Thanks for all the replies folks. Last night I started to get cold feet about this route and it's road walking but re-reading your comments and the places you mention has re-ignited my interest. I do love Portugal and Lisbon and I think I will just have to bite the bullet and embrace the roads.

The suggestions sound wonderful... we love the idea of walking by some of the coast so I think perhaps the Porto variant might scratch this itch maybe? I think I need a spreadsheet and a map.

Bom
not be discouraged.
and do keep in mind that much of this 'on the portuguese you mostly walk on asphalt' comes from reports of pilgrims having taken the 'wrong' route.... (don't get me wrong - there are stretches of asphalt ... but wouldn't that be the case everywhere ? - unless of course, perhaps, the camino takes you through the sahara desert or the artic - there'll be asphalt to walk on somewhere, no?)
http://mapacaminosantiago.es/caminosantiagoportugues/03-azambuja-santarem/
example above - that's the route i took (w/ a 2 nights stay in Ponte de Muge as a needed rest day!)
but I've heard and read reports of pilgrims who, after leaving Azambuja, did not find the arrows or whatnot or were generally mis-informed, and ended up walking on the N3 all the way to Santarem.
then of course there would be laments on "all asphalt' - rightly so. but it simply wasn't the caminho as signaled by those yellow arrows.

there are no bullets to bite
get good shoes, perhaps insoles that work for you, hiking poles, and refrain from zooming around the landscape 35 km a day or without rest days ... etc etc and all ought to be well, insh'allah, god willing or perhaps just plain knee and feet willing

 

[Liana]

I've been feeling a little low for a few weeks. I had a simple operation on my leg when I returned from the Via and it has taken weeks to feel right again... and I think the transition from walking the majestic VdlP to laying on the sofa doing nothing took it's toll.

But... sorting through my photos and the approaching New Year... and returning to full fitness has encouraged me to make some plans... and I've decided that my next camino will be the Portuguese from Lisbon (starting at the end of September). Next year is difficult as we have a lot of other commitments to fit around. I thought I could only take 2 weeks but I believe I can squeeze in the time and my husband can join me from Porto.

I'm now reading all that I can but I'm realising that there are so many options?!

So... as I start my plans which places should I not miss between Lisbon and Santiago? Any must-visit places? Best Albergues? Breath-taking views?

Thanks in advance

Sorry to hear about your injury, I feel your pain! I walked the CP in July with my 20 yo son and day 8, thought I had pulled a muscle, had to bus the last 3 days into Santiago. Once I got home 3 wks later, had an MRI and found out it wasn't a pulled muscle at all, but I had fractured the neck of my femur! I was just released from a walker 2 weeks ago and am so ready for another camino. This was my second Portuguese, but had done the central last year and coast this year. I absolutely loved Porto and Viana do Castelo! If we linger long enough to explore, there is something to discover in each village and along the camino. Fatima was beautiful, but being the 100th year, be prepared for LOTS of people and crowds, we stopped on a Tuesday afternoon, which was nice and quiet. My all time favorite I have to say was walking the "Espiritual Variante" once you get to Pontevedra! Buen camino and Happy 2017!

 

[John Ferguson]

I may have already pointed you in the direction of the forum guides, but if not, check them out in Resources. One from Lisbon to Porto, one from Porto to Santiago.

There is a new albergue about 20 km from the Cathedral in Lisbon, just opened this year by the Via Lusitana (the Lisbon amigos group) in Alpriate. Very highly recommended. And the other most highly rated albergue, this one north of Porto, is surely Casa Fernanda. You'll see lots and lots of praise heaped on her in this forum.

As far as towns, I will start the list of some not to be missed places

-- Tomar -- monastery perched above town on a hill. Really great.
-- Rabacal's Roman villa, if it is not closed due to budget cuts. There is a little museum in town right next to the albergue, and then there used to be a visit out to the site, where there are some beautiful mosaics.
-- Conimbriga's Roman ruins
-- Coimbra -- ancient university town.
-- Porto -- absolutely beautiful city, do not miss the chance to walk across the river on the pedestrian part along the high rail crossing. The view back over the city is beaugtiful (my avatar shows it in miniature, it is really stunning)
-- Ponte de LIma -- beautiful little town.
-- Valenca/Tui (on either side of the river leaving Portugal and entering Spain
-- Pontevedra -- very nice old town

I'm sure I've forgotten some places, so others can chime in.

I will be enjoying the Lisbon to Santiago Route in May 2017. I have walked the French way and found that there were many water fountains with potable water for most of the trek. Are there plenty of water fountains available on this route?

 

[amsimoes]

In fact, there are some sources of water, which I drink, but to avoid it is preferable to drink bottled water which is cheap (for example, a 1.5 liter water bottle from the Pingo Doce supermarket costs only € 0.16 one of the best portuguese water, Serra da Estrela region, only the white label), but in a cafe or bar the same 1,5 liters can cost € 1,00.

 

[jsalt]

I have walked the French way and found that there were many water fountains with potable water for most of the trek. Are there plenty of water fountains available on this route?

Hi, I start every camino with 2 x 500 ml plastic water bottles, and refill them along the way with tap water. It is potable, free, and environmentally more friendly than buying and disposing of plastic bottles every day Jill

 

[Botaivica]

I will be enjoying the Lisbon to Santiago Route in May 2017. I have walked the French way and found that there were many water fountains with potable water for most of the trek. Are there plenty of water fountains available on this route?

Hi John

I'm coming in Lisbon on May 6 and begin the pilgrimage on May 7. Shall we see one another?

Bota