LIVE from the Camino LIVE from Via Francigena, June 2022

[Anna&Michael]

Via Francigena: Canterbury, the beginning

A blessing for our pilgrimage, a cathedral filled with the sound of a choir, and then, the first step onto the Pilgrims Way and out of Canterbury into the English countryside.

Via Francigena: The Beginning : Our Wanderlust

The beginning: in the hush of early evening at Canterbury Cathedral we are blessed by Canon Emma Pennington . The start of our Via Francigena and 2,000 kms by foot to Rome.

our-wanderlust.com

 

[Rex]

I am just ahead of you. Took train from Dover back to London and Eurostar to Lille and local SCNF to Calais yesterday. Now in Tournahem s/ Le Hem after a long day today. Bypassed Wissant Guines and Licques by dead reckoning and a bit of help from Waze. This is a beautiful area. Enjoy your trek.
Buen Camino.
Writing this from the Cafe de la Mairie where Madame Nicole has been most welcoming.

 

[Harington]

A blessing for our pilgrimage, a cathedral filled with the sound of a choir, and then, the first step onto the Pilgrims Way and out of Canterbury into the English countryside.

Via Francigena: The Beginning : Our Wanderlust

The beginning: in the hush of early evening at Canterbury Cathedral we are blessed by Canon Emma Pennington . The start of our Via Francigena and 2,000 kms by foot to Rome.

our-wanderlust.com

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Buon cammino!

 

[Anna&Michael]

I am just ahead of you. Took train from Dover back to London and Eurostar to Lille and local SCNF to Calais yesterday. Now in Tournahem s/ Le Hem after a long day today. Bypassed Wissant Guines and Licques by dead reckoning and a bit of help from Waze. This is a beautiful area. Enjoy your trek.
Buen Camino.
Writing this from the Cafe de la Mairie where Madame Nicole has been most welcoming.

Rex, we're actually a bit further ahead, just a bit slow posting. We're staying in Leffond (not Leffonds, which was a few days ago) and heading through Champlitte tomorrow. Enjoy the walking, it's been all good for us so far!
Bon Chemin

I am just ahead of you. Took train from Dover back to London and Eurostar to Lille and local SCNF to Calais yesterday. Now in Tournahem s/ Le Hem after a long day today. Bypassed Wissant Guines and Licques by dead reckoning and a bit of help from Waze. This is a beautiful area. Enjoy your trek.
Buen Camino.
Writing this from the Cafe de la Mairie where Madame Nicole has been most welcoming.

 

[Anna&Michael]

Crossing from Dover to Calais

We're defeated by the French police.Then saved by a Ukrainian aid convey as we attempted to cross the English Chanel.

Via Francigena: Crossing from Dover to Calais : Our Wanderlust

Crossing from Dover to Calais, we are turned back by an officious French police chief who threatens to arrest us.

our-wanderlust.com

 

[Anna&Michael]

Rex, we're actually a bit further ahead, just a bit slow posting. We're staying in Leffond (not Leffonds, which was a few days ago) and heading through Champlitte tomorrow. Enjoy the walking, it's been all good for us so far!
Bon Chemin

Yes, isn't Madame Nicole wonderful, we well remember her big welcoming smile

 

[timr]

Well done both of you. It can only get easier from here on in!!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

We're defeated by the French police.Then saved by a Ukrainian aid convey as we attempted to cross the English Chanel.

Via Francigena: Crossing from Dover to Calais : Our Wanderlust

Crossing from Dover to Calais, we are turned back by an officious French police chief who threatens to arrest us.

our-wanderlust.com

So was all that because foot passengers are still not allowed on the ferry?
Up there for thinking...where there's a will, there's a way.
Well done!

 

[Corned Beef]

Great thinking and an excellent outcome. Bon voyage.

But to be fair to the French officer, you picked one of the busiest times to cross and his supply of bonhomie would have run out well before he saw you.

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

So was all that because foot passengers are still not allowed on the ferry? Up there for thinking...where there's a will, there's a way. Well done!

I just read last week online that the P&O was up to about 75% since the labor issues.
Any word on if/when foot passengers will again be allowed???

 

[Karlgrino]

Tried to cross this Monday afternoon..all 3 ferry lines (non of which were busy) DID NOT accept foot passengers! You either have to be in a car or have a bike, one bike per person! There are cab drivers selling you a used bike for about 120BP, a cab sharing with 4 people runs about 200BP. Tried to hitch hike , no luck so I took the train back to London where I stayed with a friend. Tuesday morning I tried all options train bus etc..all booked due to flight cancellations. Found 3 different blahblah car rides by checking every city on the continent just to cross over, but all 3 canceled. Back to Dover and standing at the check in lane for cars with a sign "Pilgrim to Calais" it was about 3pm. In a bit over an hour I got lucky. So happy to finally on my way!
Had I known this before I would have lined up a ride well in advance!!
If you know anybody going please share!

 

[Bob from L.A. !]

Thank you for your reply

 

[Tincatinker]

DFDS are cheerfully booking foot passengers Newhaven to Dieppe. Fast trains to Paris, or just turn right out of the port for the route to Santiago or keep straight ahead for Rome

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Tried to cross this Monday afternoon..all 3 ferry lines (non of which were busy) DID NOT accept foot passengers! You either have to be in a car or have a bike, one bike per person! There are cab drivers selling you a used bike for about 120BP, a cab sharing with 4 people runs about 200BP. Tried to hitch hike , no luck so I took the train back to London where I stayed with a friend. Tuesday morning I tried all options train bus etc..all booked due to flight cancellations. Found 3 different blahblah car rides by checking every city on the continent just to cross over, but all 3 canceled. Back to Dover and standing at the check in lane for cars with a sign "Pilgrim to Calais" it was about 3pm. In a bit over an hour I got lucky. So happy to finally on my way!
Had I known this before I would have lined up a ride well in advance!!
If you know anybody going please share!

Well @Karlgrino, you don't mention where you're actually walking to but...with that determination, you definitely have what it takes to resolve the many challenges all the way to Rome!
Sempre avanti & best wishes for your journey.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

I just read last week online that the P&O was up to about 75% since the labor issues.
Any word on if/when foot passengers will again be allowed???

I still don't understand why foot passengers aren't being accepted!
What difference does it make? When I crossed Dover to Calais in 2019, it was well set up for (& well utilised by) foot passengers. Is it just the additional staff required; to process & transport?

 

[Anna&Michael]

So was all that because foot passengers are still not allowed on the ferry?
Up there for thinking...where there's a will, there's a way.
Well done!

Yes, that's the reason. The situation promises to change every week sit doesn't appear to move. Still we got across, and we haven't been threatened with arrest since!

 

[Anna&Michael]

Great thinking and an excellent outcome. Bon voyage.

But to be fair to the French officer, you picked one of the busiest times to cross and his supply of bonhomie would have run out well before he saw you.

That's true and it is very busy. All's well that ends well!

 

[Anna&Michael]

I just read last week online that the P&O was up to about 75% since the labor issues.
Any word on if/when foot passengers will again be allowed???

It appears to change every week or so but doesn't change on the ground. DFDS promised a bus but that appears to have gone by the wayside.

 

[Anna&Michael]

Tried to cross this Monday afternoon..all 3 ferry lines (non of which were busy) DID NOT accept foot passengers! You either have to be in a car or have a bike, one bike per person! There are cab drivers selling you a used bike for about 120BP, a cab sharing with 4 people runs about 200BP. Tried to hitch hike , no luck so I took the train back to London where I stayed with a friend. Tuesday morning I tried all options train bus etc..all booked due to flight cancellations. Found 3 different blahblah car rides by checking every city on the continent just to cross over, but all 3 canceled. Back to Dover and standing at the check in lane for cars with a sign "Pilgrim to Calais" it was about 3pm. In a bit over an hour I got lucky. So happy to finally on my way!
Had I known this before I would have lined up a ride well in advance!!
If you know anybody going please share!

You've worked very heard to get across, hopefully it'll be smooth from her on...

 

[Anna&Michael]

I still don't understand why foot passengers aren't being accepted!
What difference does it make? When I crossed Dover to Calais in 2019, it was well set up for (& well utilised by) foot passengers. Is it just the additional staff required; to process & transport?

To be fair, DFDS and Irish Ferries don't have the passenger boarding equipment set up (not sure if they could) and there are a lot of trucks and cars in the vehicle lanes (you wouldn't want families wandering around them). DFDS promised a bus but that idea has apparently been dropped.

 

[Anna&Michael]

Long-distance walking: Time/Space Warp

Long distance walking can have a strange effect on your perception of time and space.

Via Francigena. On Day 5 in Leulinghem we, apparently, had 1,648 km to walk to Rome. Then on (Day 24) in Corbeil we had 1,600 km. Somehow it feels like we traveled futher than 48 km in 19 days. But we're not complaining, the walking is fabulous, the people are friendly and the wine is excellent.
Bon Chemin

 

[chris&chris]

I am so happy to hear that.The last stage I did from Santhia to Piacenza made me want to give up .Chris&Chris

 

[Anna&Michael]

Liberté Egalité Fraternité on the Via Francigena

Walking a marathon , the kindness of strangers, voting for liberty, equality and fraternity in France and, of course, eating delicious chocolate eclairs.

Via Francigena: Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité : Our Wanderlust

Via Francigena: Liberty, Elgalité, Fraternity. Walking 200 kilometres to exercise our democratic right to vote.

our-wanderlust.com

 

[Anna&Michael]

The Western Front on the Via Francigena

From Calais to Reims we followed the lines of history along the Western Front. Passing immaculately kept cemeteries and shrapnel pocked buildings. The stories of 100 years ago are still palpable but there's also beauty in the landscape.
http://our-wanderlust.com/2022/05/viafrancigena-the-western-front/

 

[Anna&Michael]

Some impressions: 2022 Canterbury to St Bernards Pass.

There are pilgrims on the trail but not masses, we've walked for days without seeing any, have only met a few while actually walking and have sometimes shared accommodation/meals with 3/4 others at a time. The small numbers mean that you get to know those you so meet a lot better.

Accommodation generally hasn't been a hassle, except on weekends in some popular areas (especially long weekends). We've made an effort to book ahead on weekends.

The guidebooks are pretty accurate on where food and accommodation are and while we often had to wait a long time before finding a coffee in France, planning ahead has meant that we haven't gone hungry.

We've used the Official App, the Lightfoot guide and now the Cicerone guide, plus GPS tracks on Gaia GPS. We only used the Cicerrone guide for a couple of days so far, but the Lightfoot guide has been very helpful in providing alternative routes (having the GPX tracks makes a very big difference) and accommodation options.

We've used the digital versions of the guides and the trade-off is that it's harder work thinking though the route options but of course they weigh a lot less.

The French association FFVF have a hardcopy accommodation guide which is very useful as it has more accommodation options and updated contact details (mobile numbers and email make it much so much easier to book accommodation for us non-French speakers). It's in French but that's not an issue given the info is obvious).

We've enjoyed every minute of it so far. Now, Italy awaits tomorrow!

 

[Anna&Michael]

Walking through champagne county on the Via Francigena, on narrow winding tracks through tunnels of green light. Then finding ourselves drinking fine champagne in the home of a local. http://our-wanderlust.com/2022/06/via-francigena-celebrating-in-champagne/

 

[hal_cpt]

Anna&Michael,
What a lovely blog! I will be following your adventure eagerly on a route I would like to walk soon.
I'm curious about where you stayed your first night out of Canterbury? The VF website puts an overnight stop at Shepherdswell but I don't see any sign of actual accommodation there.
Just curious about the choices people make there. (Of course all the way to Calais looks doable, but I am not built to zoom across the countryside at speed )

 

[Anna&Michael]

Anna&Michael,
What a lovely blog! I will be following your adventure eagerly on a route I would like to walk soon.
I'm curious about where you stayed your first night out of Canterbury? The VF website puts an overnight stop at Shepherdswell but I don't see any sign of actual accommodation there.
Just curious about the choices people make there. (Of course all the way to Calais looks doable, but I am not built to zoom across the countryside at speed )

Apologies for the delay responding but we're still on the trail and not able to attend to everything in a timely manner.

Look on Airbnb for Susanne's place. She is lovely and has a couple of rooms in her house that she rents out. We couldn't find anything else in the district.

Check with her re dinner options, the local pub didn't even have a toasted sandwich on offer when we were there There's a little supermarket (we used her kitchen) and there may be takeaways available on some nights.

Book as early as you can! We could have walked the distance to Dover but we felt a gentle start would be a good idea.

Buen Camino

 

[Anna&Michael]

Crossing the Alps: we follow in the footsteps of Bronze-age traders, Julius Caesar, Napoleon and more than a few cows as we climb the Swiss Alps to St Bernards Pass and then quickly descend into Italy.

Via Francigena: Crossing the Grand St Bernard Pass : Our Wanderlust

Crossing the Grand Saint Bernard Pass, the halfway point of our 2,000 km journey by foot to Rome on the Via Francigena.

our-wanderlust.com

 

[Bala]

Great write-up and beautiful photos. Congratulations on passing the half-way mark!

 

[Anna&Michael]

Great write-up and beautiful photos. Congratulations on passing the half-way mark!

Thanks for the feedback and encouragement!

 

[Anna&Michael]

Via Francigena: Walking into Tuscany

Tuscany! We leave the Alps behind us and descend through the foothills before weaving our way through the rice fields of Italy's Po Valley.
Then gradually the hills of Tuscany rise in front of us. Cyprus pines, olive groves, terracotta houses and Cisa Pass, the hardest day of our entire Via Francigena.

Via Francigena: Walking into Tuscany : Our Wanderlust

We walk into Tuscany on the Via Francigena, leaving the Alps behind. Gradually we descend through the Piedmont and enter the flatlands of the Po Valley.

our-wanderlust.com

 

[Anna&Michael]

Via Francigena: All Roads Lead to Rome

All roads lead to Roma. The final episode of our 2,000 km walk from Canterbury: a growing band of pilgrims walk through history and a heatwave to Rome:
https://our-wanderlust.com/2022/07/via-francigena-all-roads-lead-to-rome/

 

[Rex]

Well done... next year for this pilgrim. Stopped at Martigny a week ago and am back in Seattle for family business. Already plotting the next legs in 2023.
Godspeed on your next adventure and thanks for sharing your experiences on this one.

 

[K_Lynn]

Thank you so much for all the information! I'm planning VF for 2025 and am collecting as many details as I can.

Bon Chemin!

 

[Anna&Michael]

Thank you so much for all the information! I'm planning VF for 2025 and am collecting as many details as I can.

Bon Chemin!

Let us know if we can assist, we're happy to answer questions if we can be of assistance.
Buon Cammino!

 

[Anna&Michael]

Well done... next year for this pilgrim. Stopped at Martigny a week ago and am back in Seattle for family business. Already plotting the next legs in 2023.
Godspeed on your next adventure and thanks for sharing your experiences on this one.

A great place to start again. Enjoy the anticipation and the walking next year!