LIVE from the Camino Live on the Mozarabe contd from Mozarabe Forum

[nalod]

Hello all. Trev we will prob meet in that Hotel in Santiago for a free meal. The hostel Alcazar was very good value at 21 with breakfast. Route out of Cordoba well marked with level new plaques high up on wall put up by the people I meet yesterday. Surface much better er for walking on today the mud yesterday was awful, it looked harmless but stick to boots.
The albergue in Cerro is closed at the moment sign saying closed for family reasons. Today I am staying in Bar x in Cerro Muriano 20 euro without breakfast. It is wet today and I needed a short her day. I still have not meet any pilgrims, but you are all good company on forum. Good luck Trev we may yet meet. Will post as often as I can. I carry my 35 mom Nikon strapped around me all the time to shot the landscape not getting as many shots as other walks but will still have to exhibition this year. Will she what happens. Will stay in touch on this forum.
Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

Good, friendly people at Bar X I enjoyed my stay. If you continue tomorrow, I think your only choice to stay is at El Cruce which is at the bottom of the hill that leads to Villharta. They do not have wifi there. As said before Villharta to Alcaracejos is long and strenuous and because of recent rain I don't think you will be able to cross the rivers. If only you could get what the current situation is, maybe you could take the road? Very Interested to know what you do.
T

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

I hope the journey is progressing. I wonder if you will meet any other Peregrinos----when I walked in Sept/Oct I did not meet anyone until day 13. I met 2 Dutch ladies who were walking for 2 days but then they got the train to Merida. They were not Peregrinos. After that I did not meet anyone else, until Merida, day 20.

Your journey sounds so challenging with all the rain. I found it very challenging with the terrible heat. I wonder which is the lesser of two evils !!! I also had rain from Castro del Rio to Cerro Muriano.

Take care, and my thoughts are with you.

Sandra

 

[nalod]

Hello what a day. Yesterday was fine got to the soul less el Cruce hostel in Villaharta around lunchtime it rained all afternoon. Well today I started at 7.30 in the dark 2 km to the actual village of Villaharta. Then 7km on to the crossing of the River Guardalbarbo this was too dangerous to cross but what is not mentioned in Raju book there is a bridge. If you go about 300 m to the left just before that path ends go down on a tiny steep track towards river and you should see the broken bridge, it is a bit high and you have to climb down the broken part.
That prob over one or two swollen streams bit all OK . This stage is very well way marked. Got to the crossing of the river Cuza at two pm. 24 km covered. Tried to cross river twice got about three quarters each time and had to come back. Then I decided to go around it and for one and half hours I got lost. Then finally back to square one at the uncrossable point.
I then came back to where there is a house and turned right along a track for about Two km and saw national road in front of me still did not know where I was going. Turned right on busy road. Walked for about three km . Then started to hitch. Got a lift with a very nice taxi man he brought me around 4 km to Alcaracejos did not take any money and left me at the very friendly hostel Cesar only 19 euro without breakfast. What a day what a Camino. Will post more when I catch my breath. Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

Well done Nalod for toughing it out! I couldn't work out how you were going to do it, I only just made it then came more rain. Great solution you conjured up and also getting a free taxi ride, brilliant.
It's not going to be quite so strenuous from now on but I reckon you're going to have to find a few more ways around water. I too hated El Cruce and having the hill to Villaharta to begin that day is not the best introduction to a days walk. Did you take any photos? I think the weather is changing for the better, so hopefully you'll be snapping away again. A well deserved bit of relaxing no doubt, so cheers! T

 

[nalod]

Cheers Trev hope things are going well for you. There was one point today when I had no idea where I was going. The lack of maps is a huge drawback, they need to sort out the copyright issue. I was just listening to hear traffic and head towards it. But it is five in the evening you don't know where you are how far you have to go and can't speak a word of the language. Crazy. When you get to your destination you just take thing for granted' but you could have been stranded.
Don't know what to do when if I get to Merida. Will see.

 

[Trevhock]

That feeling of being very alone, and finding strength to overcome. A low point seems to be often followed by something good, the camino is very special with that.I am in Lisbon now just about to start this Camino. I miss Spain though and am trying to work out the best strategy to get to Porto, it seems the infrastructure is better from there on. Here I am missing the Mozarbe already!

 

[nalod]

Good luck in Portugal, I still might consider it,u can let me know how you get on. Today weather much better but afternoon very cold. Now in Hinojosa Del Duque one river not crossable but road nearby. It would be nice to meet other pilgrims. Got some photos today. Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

The challenge of crossing streams that are now rivers isn't over yet Nalod, I think the first one I crossed on the left side and hit by some branches, the second one was by going along the right hand bank finding big boulders and jumping them and crossing through the undergrowth on the other side back to the path. The third one the Rio Zujar is not passable I followed the signs down but it was too wide and deep I cut across some fields to find the road. The best thing is when you get to the road, which has recently been asphalted turn left and follow the sign that says bicics in yellow and follow it all the way to Monterrubio.
I've used the Hostal I'm in as a base to walk and leapfrog the first stage out of Lisbon, because of the uncertainty of accommodation. I should have started from Porto where the infrastructure is in place and geared for pilgrims. I am unsure about wifi etc for next few days so may be out of touch.
I remain curious how you progress. I am sure you'll just use the Railway bridge to cross the river after Castuera and at Campanario you might consider what I did to get on track to Magacela. Good luck, T

 

[nalod]

Thank you again Trev for all great advice. My latest plan is after Merida walk to Zamora which I love then get bus to Porto and on to Santiago. It is very much a case of make it up as you go along. Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

I too have good memories of Zamora and a fine Albergue.sounds like a good plan, you never know might still end up meeting again in the pilgrims dining room at Hostal dos Reis in Santiago. T

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

By now you have probably reached Monterrubrio, or further. Hopefully you have managed to get past all the water. You did so well to find your way the other day when you had no idea where you were. Getting lost is a horrible experience-----I got hopelessly lost after Moclin-----I would still be wandering around if the young Spanish guy( maybe about 20) had not come along on that lonely country track. He was definitely a Camino Angel-----he took me to the Fuente where I was supposed to be 3 hours ago !! I was so far off course.

How did you get across the Rio Guadalefra ? I was able to use the stepping stones. I noticed the railway bridge , but was happy I did not need to use it.

Anyway, you are doing so well ----and building on your inner reserves ! Soon it will all be behind you.

Take care,
Sandra

 

[nalod]

Hello now in Monterrubio. Lovely sunny day but bitterly cold in morn and eve. The landscape is now reminding me more of the Via due LA Plata. The first river today Arroyo Del Cohete is just crossable down stream hopping carefully. The Rio Zujar is not crossable followed Trev advice and took road.
Left foot very sore today wearing heavier boots than normal but needed them especially in Switzerland.. Had a meal last night in a very friendly bar called bar central on Plaza Dr Cathedral. Staying tonight in Hostel Vatican 25 euro without breakfast' not impressed.
Will prop go just as far as Castuera tomorrow, next stop would be 39 km too much. Thanks Sandra and Trev for all the encouragement. Budget a bit over. Need an albergue.
Will see what tomorrow brings, hopefully another Pilgrim.
Regards Nalod

 

[nalod]

Hello done a double day today and now in Campario. 39 km.Lovely weather,one hard river crossing but managed it. That was Rio Guadalefra 5km from Castuera got my boots full of water but sat on opposite bank drying my feet and eating strawberries and oranges in the sun. Staying in albergue outside Campanario it is nice bit more like a hostel or getes de etape. It was the one day I really enjoyed the walking, I like long distance in the sun. The police here were friendly and helpful in relation to directions and actually rang albergue. So all well, how are you Trev?.Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

The bar in Vaticano just filled up with more and more old men who sat in rows in front of the telly!
At Castuera the tourist information gave me a neck warmer and a camino Mozarbe pin !
Los Naranjos cost 20 euros menu del dia 8.50 and was good, Campanario RailwAy station is your Albergue at 15 euros they have a microwave but nothing else you get a breakfast of thermos flask coffee and cakes thrown in Don't be tempted to eat in Railway bar it's expensive. They have wifi that's unlocked and can be picked up from outside the door even when they're shut. Hope all goes well. T

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, nalod,
It's about time you had a good day of walking -- I take it you are now within a couple of days to Merida.

I'm paying close attention to your posts, and frankly, they are making me think that maybe my idea about walking from Granada is not such a good idea! Hope things continue on an upward trajectory, buen camino, Laurie

 

[Trevhock]

I'm afraid I walked along the railway to cross the river, Interesting combination strawberries and oranges. Well deserved. Saved yourself a few euros doing 39k. Are you at the railway stationa Albergue? If you are, in the morning cross the rail line outside the station and the barbed wire fence and head along that track towards Magacela you'll save yourself being stranded by another swollen stream along the early stage of the camino that Sandra mentioned.
As for me I started out from a place called Azambuja and as the camino turned of on to a track a farmer in a 4WD came towards me stopped and indicated that I couldn't continue because of flood and mud he gave me a lift to the entrance if his fields via the road to the other side of the problem. A lot of busy roads so far though today was a pleasant walk to Santorem. But I think more rain maybe due!
T

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

Not far to go now-----Merida is almost upon you. I hope you managed to get past Campanario , and now you are probably in Don Benito. Are you going to Santa Amalia after Don Benito. Following the advice of another Forum member, I did to avoid a potentially difficult river crossing after Yelbes. With all the rain you have had, that could be an issue. Anyway, take care, and I hope you continue to have some sunny days. I am with you in spirit.

Buen camino.

Sandra

 

[nalod]

Hello in Medellin 31 km plus 2 rivers that were not crossed. Now very tired my body is telling me to slow down and I will. Trev did not see your post re railway track and fence until this eve. When you leave Albergue cross railway and fence, I walked an extra 2_3 km and still had to do it.
When I got to Down Benito I decided it was too much trouble to find hostel and just went straight to Medellin. Rio hostel 21 e menus Del dia 8 good value and niceeople. When you think about it these Hostels are good value we are too used of Albergues.
Will have to go long route tomorrow via Santa Amalla and will stay in San Pedro del Merida around 25km. In Raju book she says of short her option that the river Bordalo is much deeper than others you crossed, if that is the case it must reassemble the Amazon. Only joking.
Laurie wjen I finish and get back home you can pm me. Maybe I just hit a bad time of year, yes summer would prob be too hot, it is also a Camino you might need company on because of the lack of Albergues and the chat you can have in them.I also tend to push myself too much at times. Sandra thanks for great encouragement.
Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

Now that was a long day, it's just hard slog into Merida now!
I'm finding the camino Portuguese so far quite unpleasant, doesn't have the same spirit as the others. Today I left Santorem through Santiago gate and felt I was on an old track I ended the day feeling cheated and lucky to be alive. The arrows led me to a place called Pombalinho where for the first time on a main road I've seen a Santiago road sign what's more in French and English it says follow the yellow arrows and they have nice little ceramic tiled markers which lead to a cross roads and then stop. This village isn't even on the camino! At least I have seen where Jose Saranago was born but so I was told never returned too. From that place Azinhaga to Gollega I nearly got hit by two cars.I've got four lovely grand children who I want to see again. I question why am I doing this walk, my guide book is openly spiritual with personal reflections on each stage that doesnt fo it for me. Other caminos have inspired this one not. Might just go to Porto and continue from there.
Once you get to Merida you'll be able to chill out and you will also have more Control over your costs, are you going to keep in touch via this forum? T

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

Nearly there !! I remember my last day, from San Pedro to Merida----it could have been a beautiful day but I was so focussed on my left foot, I could hardly walk. The walk into Merida, from the outskirts, is quite long but quite beautiful. You will probably pass the Touristico Officima, in a building with a clock tower. The ladies in there were very helpful---it is open 10am - 2pm and 5pm -9pm, on Calle Eulalia. I even found a laundry, just off Plaza Espana, to give my clothes a good wash. If you need a locuturia, there is one on Calle John Lennon. Merida is a beautiful town----a real delight after such a hard slog.

I am sure you will meet lots of Peregrinos at the albergue. I stayed 3 nights, so had a room at Hostal Senero. However, on the morning I left Merida I met my first pilgrims at the Aqueducts.

You have done so well to keep going, through all the challenges. Trev, congratulations to you also. You led the way !! Trev, I hope your Portuguese journey is improving.

Nalod, enjoy the last day----by the time you receive this you might have already left San Pedro. Eventually you will look back and marvel at how you kept going. Just remember, there are very few people on planet Earth who have walked The Mozarabe, Granada to Merida.

Take care,
Sandra

 

[peregrino_tom]

Trev
yes, that stretch into Golega is nasty. We managed to walk on the side of the fields on either side. Try and hang on in there - you've got the best bit of the caminho Portugues just ahead, IMHO. Try to resist that bus - at least until you get past Coimbra!

 

[nalod]

Trev good luck yesterday was bad day for you see what happens. Now in San Pedro deMerida. Wet cold day.Yet another flood diversion. I took the long route to avoid swollen rivers and all fine to outside of Torrefresenda 1.5 km outside town turn right under motorway' well that part was badly flooded and not passable.
I was thinking of climbing up over high fence then crossing 4 lane motorway then other high fence I decided against st it. I done that before last year when lost on Via due LA Plata but swore never again. I re traced my steps to town entrance got far side of motorway and eventually 3 km later got on track.
Staying in hostel Juan Porro 26 e without breakfast. The albergue is closed meet 2doctors there seems to be a clinic, sorry I didn't ask them to have a look at me.
Merida tomorrow and and albergue look ink forward to cooking a meal and meeting people. I also need to save money.
It has been an experience probably not the most enjoyable I ever had, but I wanted to do it and tomorrow hopefully I will have done that.
I intend to continue on the Via due LA Playta and will post here.
Regards all
Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

Bet you'll be pleased to get to Merida, imagine you're getting the same weather as me, relentless stong, cold north wind. The front edge of the rain just got me before Golega, then the rain last night had gone by morning, thankfully just sticky mud and puddles unlike you. Bet you could hardly believe what you were seeing being confronted yet again by flood. Wouldn't have thought anyone will be hard on your heels. I decided to start a posting myself on this live on the camino forum, just giving basic details. There are no Albergue as such from Lisbon to Porto the local firemen(Bombeiros Voluntarios) have always helped by giving pilgrims abed and shower they are now reluctant to do it so it may be of interest to those following me to know what I did. Good luck on your final Mozarbe day. Pleased you will continue your postings while on the VDLP. Remember last year at this time we had excellent weather all the way from Seville to Santiago. T

 

[Trevhock]

Thanks Tom, if I took a bus I'd regret it forever. Yesterday was bad never been so close to such fast moving cars. This camino has treacherous bits, not one to choose as your first! T

 

[nalod]

Arrived early lunchtime yesterday in Merida- All well stayed in Albergue meet a few pilgrims. Now finished day 1 on Via due LA Plata and staying in Monastery in Alcuescar. No flooded rivers to cross. 34 km today and with 2 Pilgrims.
Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

Hi Nalod,
Have a good memory of the monastery Albergue and an interesting walk through to the refectory.i think they will give you a Pilgrim blessing.
T

 

[Alexandra]

Hi Nalod,

Congrats on reaching Merida. I have good memories of my night at Alcuescar-----the Pilgrim blessing and the shared meal. You will now have many companions on the journey.

Buen camino,

Sandra

 

[nalod]

Now in Caesar deCaceres albergue free. Last night Valdesalor yes the albergue is open very new clean 6 euros. There are about 5 of us now traveling along 2 Italians and 2 Spanish nice company. weather cold wet so so different to this time last year.

 

[nalod]

Now in Embalse de Alcanta, lovely modern Albergue built into the hill overlooking the large Resevior. Only one here at moment,very friendly place. Price 15e including brakfast so far on this trip I would say it is my favourite place anyone out there who will walk this way do yourself a favour and stop here.

Today is cold and wet was considering winding down my Camino but staying here might recharge my batteries and wont book homward flight yet.

Rgards Nalod

 

[Deleted member 3000]

It looks like a week of rain ahead:

http://www.aemet.es/es/eltiempo/predicc ... ra-id10008

The albergue does look nice:

http://www.embalsedealcantara.com/

 

[peregrina2000]

This is one of those "Albergues Turisticos" on the Via de la Plata, so the fact that it's open may mean that the others are as well. Here's hoping! Laurie

 

[Trevhock]

Hi Nalod, one of my best experiences of the VDLP was arriving there tired, thirsty and hungry and I couldn't believe what I saw. All the tables had been put together and it was full of bread, cheese, wine, beer, water, fruit, cakes in fact everything. Around this big table were two groups of Spanish pilgrims,an Austrian and a Dutchman all having a party. Friends of the spaniards had driven up with a car full of food. The albergue has a washing machine and a great view and a memorable sunset. We had really good weather last year didn't we. I was looking forward to your progress, whether you'd make that furtive dash through the gates nearGalisteo etc. I can understand you calling it a day, still half expecting you in the Pilgrims dining room in Santiago though! Enjoy , T

 

[LTfit]

Hats off to you! I give you credit for doing it in the rain and cold.

In a few days you will be in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra. Be sure to stop there and stay at the Albergue Perroquial with Don Blas. You will enjoy a communal dinner and breakfast and wonderful company.

Hope that the rain lets up so that you can continue on the VdlP. Salamanca and Zamora are only steps away :wink: !

 

[nalod]

Re: Live on Mozarabe contd and Via de la Plata

Hello now in Galisteo very long day around 40km and some very heavy rain, stayed on road for last part some river flooded I was told. Still a great walk. Staying in Albergue don't know how much yet.
Now this is my plan continue to Salamanca should be there by next Tuesday and bus to Oporto then walk to Santiago. Where can I get English language guidebook for Oporto route and where when I get off bus is Albergue in Oporto. Trev we might yet meet. Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

No hanging around then Nalod!
You can get a downloadable guide for the camino Portuguese from CSJ Porto to Lisbon it is donativo.
I've got the Lisbon to Porto it's a bit higgildy piggildy and though it was written on 2009 it is more in tune and as up to date and has a lot better tone than the 2013 edition of the book I'm using in my opinion.
Don't expect it any drier here though! Look forward to seeing you then!

 

[Trevhock]

While at Fuenterroble last year I understood Don Blas was going to do St Olafs Way with his donkeys, absurd though it is, I believed it, was he having me on?

 

[nalod]

The most amazing heavy rain, streams are rivers. Last night Albergue was 7 e. Now in Olivia de Plasencia lovely albergue 15 e with breakfast. One other Spanish pilgrim.
There was thunderstorms and lightning today. It is all part of the Camino but a bit of nice weather would be great, hard to dry out clothes.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, trevhock,
Don Blas was speaking quite "en serio." Here a brief television clip of his journey: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xskqpd ... TjEToy9KSM

I have seen a lot of photos somewhere but can't put my finger on them, if I do, I'll post them.

Nalod, you have lots of armchair travelers watching you from afar and hoping the weather turns for you. Spending a rainy afternoon in Oliva de Plasencia must be challenging to say the least. Nothing going on is an understatment! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Trevhock]

Thanks Laurie, visual proof, but did he transport his donkeys all the way to Norway? Hope all went well Nalod, are you staying in Olivia Plascencia or there was an option to stay at a Hotel Triumpho closer to the camino, this is off the top of my head. I've had atrocious weather, imagine you much the same? T

 

[nalod]

In Banos de Montemayor, the rain seems to be getting worse all day long heavy. Staying in Municipal Hostel 10e. The route between Caparra and Aldeanueva is virtually impassable, two rivers flooded eventually crossed one but boots full of water tried to dry them out and about 2 km down the path another river with no chance of crossing. Walked down stream no help, back upstream saw a bridge in distance but when I got to it the fence all along was just too hight to cross and rusty barbed wire on top. Walked along fence in very wet field for about half km got gate and on to a strange looking road. About 3km later joined up with Camino but I stayed on road as there were a number of rivers yet to come. It seems that this is a service road for the irrigation canals.
At one stage I was thinking it was time to find 2 of all the species, but it is all part of a Camino. Tomorrow I will hopefully stay in Fuenterroble de Salvaterra. There was one Spanish Pilgrim staying in same place last night, but alone tonight.

 

[Trevhock]

Not surprised you're alone not many people will have your endurance and stamina. T

 

[peregrino_tom]

Spending a rainy afternoon in Oliva de Plasencia must be challenging to say the least. Nothing going on is an understatment!

I recall there was a very friendly bar about 300m from Monica's place where you could get a bottle of Mahou and little tapas bowls for a euro. Bit of eurosport on the widescreen and your afternoon is sorted... :lol:

 

[Priscillian]

I am considering the Mozarabe as one of three possibilities for my Camino this year, maybe in September, so this has been very helpful to me, thank you. If any of you get as far as Muxia, look me up and tell me more.....
Tracy

 

[nalod]

Same story. Crossed a few heavy rivers but one was not passable. It was between Calzada due Bejar and Peromingo was about to give up when I met a farmer and his son on a tractor and they showed me another dirt track. Still I reckon about 6 km extra overall. Now in the lovely Albergue at Fuenteroble de Salvaterra. There is a Englishman and German lady here.
Almost eleven hours on the road today bit strangely satisfying.
Looking forward to dinner.

 

[nalod]

Now in Salamanca .There is snow forecast for tomorrow morn here. Lovely town. Off to Porto by bus tomorrow then start the route to Santiago.

 

[Trevhock]

Good to hear it Nalod! You're going to find camino Portuguese a relief. It's just torrential rain here falling on asphalt ,and loads of German and English pilgrims its actually quite pleasant in an odd sort of way, enjoy a bit of a rest. T

 

[nalod]

In Porto, did not know of hour difference between Spain and Portugal. Staying in Poets Hostel lovely place lovely city think I will take test day here tomorrow.

 

[nalod]

Lovely day so decided to walk. Now in Rates very friendly. I like this section.

 

[nalod]

Three lovely days sunny no rain, lovely places to stay, friendly people. Now in Pointe Dr Lima. Rote well sesviced by albergues. Great.

 

[Trevhock]

Hi Nalod,
Pleased you're enjoying this camino, I found it just got better and better, easy, pleasant and enjoyable walks, good scenery and interesting places.
I'm poised to enter Santiago, just 15k. I will stay until the 20th and then I'm off to Miraz for a stint as a hospitelero. Will have to find a way to meet, keep your postings up when you can(I stopped mine). They keep threatening rain and thunder but it ends sunny, long may it continue, we've had more than our share and you've suffered more the consequence. Enjoy! T

 

[nalod]

In Ponteverde. Will begin Santiago Thursday. Might miss you. Where is the town you are doing Hpstpellaro. Still would like to meet back to home on Tue next.

 

[Trevhock]

Even though its raining again enjoy the last bit. Miraz is in Galicia, tomorrow I will check bus times etc, so should be able to meet up before you return. Just had supper in the pilgrims dining room, Germans, Dutch, Italian and a Maltese all on the Frances camino, plenty of snow on that one. So good that they maintain the tradition for pilgrims. Half expected you to pop up there!

 

[Trevhock]

Looks like I'm going to miss you Nalod. Pity. I'm about to catch the bus to Sobrado then walk reverse camino to Miraz, through out the day tried telephoning, emailing and texting the hostel but no response, I've past through the village when I did the Del Norte so not that surprised. This is by way of an apology for not meeting you, and for the next two weeks don't expect any response from me I'm afraid. Managed supper once in the pilgrims dining room and it was good yo meet pilgrims but the food wasn't as good ad previous years and you'll need to be there early. I stayed at Semenario Major San Martin Pinario 23 euros inc Breakfast pilgrim rate and money well spent and their lunch was good value at 12 euros. Enjoy Santiago! Ultreia. T

 

[nalod]

Cheers Trev in Santiago staying in same place, good rate. Sorry to have missed you. Will prob go to Porto Sat and spend few days there. You can pm if your circumstances change.Good luck in Hostel. Regards Nalod