SYates
Camino Fossil AD 1999, now living in Santiago de C
- Time of past OR future Camino
- First: Camino Francés 1999
...
Last: Santiago - Muxia 2019
Now: http://egeria.house/
Pilgrim Greeting from Germany ;-)
After an uneventful 2,5h drive my kind and long-suffering husband deposited me in the center of Görlitz and drove back home to Prague. After checking into the Pilgerherberge (Pilger=pilgrim, Herberge=hostel, you are getting a bit of a “Pilgrim German” course with my posts) I decided to make the most of the sunshine and explore the town.
Unlike me, you will be most likely arrive by bus or train at the Bahnhof (railway station). Here the way into town from there and some extra tips.
In the Bahnhof itself you can already pick up a town map, either in the DB Reisezentrum (travel center) or in the bookshop opposite of it. The ones in the travel center are free and the ones in the bookshop come in all sizes and prices.
If you have time and interest I suggest that you visit St. Jakobus Cathedral now as it is close to the railway station, but a bit away from the other monuments and attractions of the town. For this go out of the railway station and turn right, after a few hundred meter you come to a street that passes under the railway lines and you can see the cathedral from here. The cathedral is normally open and has a 15th century statue of St.James that came from Erfurt (which you will pass later on the way).
To continue into Old Town walk back direction railway station, pass again under the railway lines and continue straight ahead down Jakobstrasse. You pass a little park on your right where you can find the “Schlemmerpilz”, an outdoor snack bar with lovely home cooked food for very reasonable prices. Continue down the same street, passed the big post office and just before you reach the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady, well worth a visit) there is a small shopping mall on your right. The electronic shop in the first floor sells SIM cards and is generally very helpful in setting you up with it. You will need a passport and an address “somewhere” in Germany to do this, but any address is fine, really. I used the one of the Pilgerherberge I stayed in.
Continue now on the same street (now called Steinstrasse) towards a big tower and, keeping left of it, walk to a square called Obermarkt (Upper Market). The tourist info, where English is spoken and that can help you with finding pilgrim accommodation, is by the fountain in the right half of the square opposite the church (don't miss to go inside!).
Tourist Info: There are, occasionally, guided tours in English (and Dutch) during main season plus a good range of info material in English. They are very friendly and helpful and can show you the way to the nearest Pilgerherberge that has free beds, but I really recommend to reserve your bed beforehand as most of the Pilgerherbergen are in not always staffed. I stayed at the
Pilgerherberge Peregrinus, Langenstrasse 37, 02826 Görlitz, directly in the Old Town, a YMCA guesthouse that can accommodate up to 41 pilgrims and other guests.
Bunk beds in small dormitories, shared but gender separated showers and toilets, small kitchen with basic equipment. Beds have linen but no pillows, if you need one – just ask and give a couple of Euro extra. There is a common room/areas and a small backyard with a washing line. Price: 10 Euro including a big breakfast. I paid 28 Euro for two nights and a pillow, so I guess it is a bit more expensive if you stay more than one night.
What I like about this Pilgerherberge: If you are a single pilgrim you get normally a whole dormitory for yourself (space permitting, but they will not put two strangers of opposite genders in one dorm), on request you can stay a second night, all is very clean and friendly and they encourage you to make sandwiches from the generous breakfast spread and even give you bags to wrap them in. It is a lovely old building with a long history and a lot of atmosphere.
Important!: You need to reserve beforehand as the house is only staffed when they expect somebody.
As two major monuments of the Via Regia are directly on your way out of town, I suggest to walk the first bit, as described here, after you have found a bed and put your backpack down to be able to visit them. They might be still closed when you start your pilgrimage.
Way out of town:
The way out of town starts at the Freundschaftsbrücke (Friendship Bridge) that connects the German and Polish halves of Görlitz/Zgorzelec which have been until 1945 one town. On the Polish side, just by the bridge and overlooking the river and Old Town is the pub “Piwnica Staromiejska” which serves drinks and food for reasonable prices and cheaper than its equivalent on the German side.
If you walk further towards the street and look right you will see a big billboard showing and explaining the different ways in Poland and how they continue into Germany.
Cross the bridge back into Germany, cross the street and head right and uphill towards St. Peter and Paul Church. You can get a stamp for your Pilgerpass (pilgrims passport) here and admire the Sonnenorgel (sun organ) where the organ pipes are arranged in circular shapes.
Way Marking
There is NOT an overabundance of yellow arrows on the Via Regia like there is in Spain instead the way is marked with the sign of a yellow scallop shell with crossed pilgrims staffs on blue ground. In towns it can be difficult to spot them, but you will soon develop a “scallop radar” as a friend of mine calls it.
From St. Peter and Paul church continue straight ahead and turn after Jesus Bäckerei (Jesus' Bakery) left into the Heilig-Grab-Strasse (Holy Sepulchre Church). Before I get to that one, just before and opposite of it is a big Aldi Super Market, if you are self-catering this is the cheapest place to buy your food.
Holy Sepulchre Church
Perhaps the main attraction in this town, a replica of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem from the 15th century in a park that shows also the surroundings of that site in jerusalem, like the Kidron Valley. The whole complex is a master piece of medieval architecture and landscaping. The way from St.Peter and Paul is also the old, and now revived, Way of the Cross which processions use during Easter Week.
OK, tomorrow I will start walking, so I leave the rest of the way out of town for then. Buen Camino, SY
After an uneventful 2,5h drive my kind and long-suffering husband deposited me in the center of Görlitz and drove back home to Prague. After checking into the Pilgerherberge (Pilger=pilgrim, Herberge=hostel, you are getting a bit of a “Pilgrim German” course with my posts) I decided to make the most of the sunshine and explore the town.
Unlike me, you will be most likely arrive by bus or train at the Bahnhof (railway station). Here the way into town from there and some extra tips.
In the Bahnhof itself you can already pick up a town map, either in the DB Reisezentrum (travel center) or in the bookshop opposite of it. The ones in the travel center are free and the ones in the bookshop come in all sizes and prices.
If you have time and interest I suggest that you visit St. Jakobus Cathedral now as it is close to the railway station, but a bit away from the other monuments and attractions of the town. For this go out of the railway station and turn right, after a few hundred meter you come to a street that passes under the railway lines and you can see the cathedral from here. The cathedral is normally open and has a 15th century statue of St.James that came from Erfurt (which you will pass later on the way).
To continue into Old Town walk back direction railway station, pass again under the railway lines and continue straight ahead down Jakobstrasse. You pass a little park on your right where you can find the “Schlemmerpilz”, an outdoor snack bar with lovely home cooked food for very reasonable prices. Continue down the same street, passed the big post office and just before you reach the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady, well worth a visit) there is a small shopping mall on your right. The electronic shop in the first floor sells SIM cards and is generally very helpful in setting you up with it. You will need a passport and an address “somewhere” in Germany to do this, but any address is fine, really. I used the one of the Pilgerherberge I stayed in.
Continue now on the same street (now called Steinstrasse) towards a big tower and, keeping left of it, walk to a square called Obermarkt (Upper Market). The tourist info, where English is spoken and that can help you with finding pilgrim accommodation, is by the fountain in the right half of the square opposite the church (don't miss to go inside!).
Tourist Info: There are, occasionally, guided tours in English (and Dutch) during main season plus a good range of info material in English. They are very friendly and helpful and can show you the way to the nearest Pilgerherberge that has free beds, but I really recommend to reserve your bed beforehand as most of the Pilgerherbergen are in not always staffed. I stayed at the
Pilgerherberge Peregrinus, Langenstrasse 37, 02826 Görlitz, directly in the Old Town, a YMCA guesthouse that can accommodate up to 41 pilgrims and other guests.
Bunk beds in small dormitories, shared but gender separated showers and toilets, small kitchen with basic equipment. Beds have linen but no pillows, if you need one – just ask and give a couple of Euro extra. There is a common room/areas and a small backyard with a washing line. Price: 10 Euro including a big breakfast. I paid 28 Euro for two nights and a pillow, so I guess it is a bit more expensive if you stay more than one night.
What I like about this Pilgerherberge: If you are a single pilgrim you get normally a whole dormitory for yourself (space permitting, but they will not put two strangers of opposite genders in one dorm), on request you can stay a second night, all is very clean and friendly and they encourage you to make sandwiches from the generous breakfast spread and even give you bags to wrap them in. It is a lovely old building with a long history and a lot of atmosphere.
Important!: You need to reserve beforehand as the house is only staffed when they expect somebody.
As two major monuments of the Via Regia are directly on your way out of town, I suggest to walk the first bit, as described here, after you have found a bed and put your backpack down to be able to visit them. They might be still closed when you start your pilgrimage.
Way out of town:
The way out of town starts at the Freundschaftsbrücke (Friendship Bridge) that connects the German and Polish halves of Görlitz/Zgorzelec which have been until 1945 one town. On the Polish side, just by the bridge and overlooking the river and Old Town is the pub “Piwnica Staromiejska” which serves drinks and food for reasonable prices and cheaper than its equivalent on the German side.
If you walk further towards the street and look right you will see a big billboard showing and explaining the different ways in Poland and how they continue into Germany.
Cross the bridge back into Germany, cross the street and head right and uphill towards St. Peter and Paul Church. You can get a stamp for your Pilgerpass (pilgrims passport) here and admire the Sonnenorgel (sun organ) where the organ pipes are arranged in circular shapes.
Way Marking
There is NOT an overabundance of yellow arrows on the Via Regia like there is in Spain instead the way is marked with the sign of a yellow scallop shell with crossed pilgrims staffs on blue ground. In towns it can be difficult to spot them, but you will soon develop a “scallop radar” as a friend of mine calls it.
From St. Peter and Paul church continue straight ahead and turn after Jesus Bäckerei (Jesus' Bakery) left into the Heilig-Grab-Strasse (Holy Sepulchre Church). Before I get to that one, just before and opposite of it is a big Aldi Super Market, if you are self-catering this is the cheapest place to buy your food.
Holy Sepulchre Church
Perhaps the main attraction in this town, a replica of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem from the 15th century in a park that shows also the surroundings of that site in jerusalem, like the Kidron Valley. The whole complex is a master piece of medieval architecture and landscaping. The way from St.Peter and Paul is also the old, and now revived, Way of the Cross which processions use during Easter Week.
OK, tomorrow I will start walking, so I leave the rest of the way out of town for then. Buen Camino, SY
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