LIVE from the Camino Long Trails Reports (with some camping info)

[long trails]

Bonjour from St Jean!

Arrived today on a rail replacement bus from Bayonne. Now sitting in a cafe, it's 13.00 and surprisingly chilly, much more than England!

Bus was full and mainly pilgrims, and we all charged into town from the Gare towards the Camino Office.

Had to wait about 30 mins to get my pilgrim passport. The charming lady behind the desk told me 300 to 500 pilgrims daily have signed into the office during the last few weeks.

Weighed my pack in the office. Came to just under 9.5kg (incl 1 liter of water). Some guy who volunteers there patted me on the back, and said it's a good weight for me. I am 76kg.

I am carrying full camping gear too, so I am pleased to be under 10kg.

No albergues or gites are open yet, most open from 15.00, and there are a lot of pilgrims walking around. I already feel the bed pressure, and I haven't even started.

 

[ivar]

Buen camino!

 

[mspath]

For dinner tonight Chez DeDe at 3 rue de France is quite ok. It is near the Pilgrim Office and often suggested by them. It also appeared in the movie The Way. I have eaten here many times over the past 11 years; the food is good and the prices very reasonable. .

How I envy you starting off!
Carpe diem and Buen camino!

 

[Davey Boyd]

Buen Camino!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Buen Camino!

 

[PEI_Heather]

Buen Camino and buen camping!

 

[BrienC]

Impressive pack weight! Buen Camino!

 

[Susanwills]

Wanting to hear how camping goes for you in the next few days. I decided to bring a bivy sac just in case. I still am not sure about my down sleeping bag or just a liner. I backpack a lot, but just have no idea on weather conditions on Camino Frances. I have to be prepared to sleep outside if Albergues are full. My budget does not allow for taxi to a hotel as others have suggested. I'll be starting off in SJPdP on june 2.

 

[long trails]

Ok, so it was easy to get a bed. Staying at Beun Camino Gite, which is very nice. Even now at 7pm there are beds available at every albergue and gite that I have walked past.

I noted that the camping municipal is very close to the centre of town, but glad of a proper single bed (no bunks!).

I am paying €16 plus €5 for brekkie, will probably be one of the more expensive places I stay. Due to an excessively large lunch, I declined the €13 pilgrim meal in the gite.

The sun is out, the red wine is flowing, and all is well with the World.

 

[long trails]

Here is a blog post from today. Hope it's ok to post external links.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/st-jean-pied-de-port-day-zero/

 

[KerrieG]

Here is a blog post from today. Hope it's ok to post external links.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/st-jean-pied-de-port-day-zero/

Would love to keep up with your blog @long trails, can't see where to subscribe/follow. Hope you'll post here to the forums when you write a new post! Buen Camino!

 

[DanielH]

Here is a blog post from today. Hope it's ok to post external links.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/st-jean-pied-de-port-day-zero/

Reading your first day blog brought back great memories. Wishing you a buen camino ahead and look forward to additional postings.
daniel

 

[long trails]

Will post later with my Day 1 to Spain. Just to add, spoke with a few pilgrims today who arrived on the late train into St Jean yesterday.

They had to walk around a long time to find anywhere. Two guys who never met before nearly ended up sharing a double bed!

 

[long trails]

Day One!

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/france-to-spain-day-one/

 

[DanielH]

Day One!

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/france-to-spain-day-one/

That little white van with the drinks and snacks made me laugh and brought back memories. It's the last place for a French stamp for your credencial. Several of us managed to arrive just in time. Even though there were tired and thirsty pilgrims behind us, the gentleman closed up shop and we watched him drive away down the hill to his house which was only a couple of thousand yards away or so. We all just started laughing. Thanks for posting.

 

[long trails]

Yes that little van was doing a great trade when I stopped. Talk about a captive audience.

I thought bed shortages were going to be an issue today with the sheer numbers of pilgrims heading here, but the municipal was still accepting pilgrims past 5pm.

I have booked a bed in Pamplona tomorrow, so going to take it real slow tomorrow!

So here from Zubiri is my newest post..

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/foothills-to-the-flats-day-two/

 

[DanielH]

Yes that little van was doing a great trade when I stopped. Talk about a captive audience.

I thought bed shortages were going to be an issue today with the sheer numbers of pilgrims heading here, but the municipal was still accepting pilgrims past 5pm.

I have booked a bed in Pamplona tomorrow, so going to take it real slow tomorrow!

So here from Zubiri is my newest post..

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/foothills-to-the-flats-day-two/

Enjoyed your blog post on Zubiri. Those bells at the church were nice, but I heard them all night long every 15 minutes as they tracked time. If you get a chance and you have time, I would encourage you to explore Pamplona.

 

[cher99840]

I'm loving your blog. I'm a little concerned though that you feel "a little nipping....but not enough for plasters". Some of us use tape as prevention. It saves a bit of hide that we might want later. . Thanks for posting your journey.

 

[long trails]

Yes my toes are on their last legs. On with the micropore tape tomorrow!

Here is day three...I am getting quick at this smartphone blogging, that's 15 mins work.

Really enjoyed today. All the other pilgrims seem to be taking it easy after a couple of days of rushing. Guess we are all spreading out a little.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/stroll-to-pamplona-day-three/

 

[Susanwills]

Yes my toes are on their last legs. On with the micropore tape tomorrow!

Here is day three...I am getting quick at this smartphone blogging, that's 15 mins work.

Really enjoyed today. All the other pilgrims seem to be taking it easy after a couple of days of rushing. Guess we are all spreading out a little.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/stroll-to-pamplona-day-three/

What's the name of the swanky albergue and how much was it? What temp. rate/type of bag did you trade out for? What has been the coldest temp. so far? thanks...asking because I am starting out Tuesday.

 

[long trails]

Hostel Casa Ibarrola
Carmen, 31, Pamplona

My new bag cost €39 and it weighs 600gms with a comfort of 12C and minimum 5C

Previous one weighed 900gms and was 10C comfort. The zip started way too far up the bag, therefore not allowing me to cool my feet, so to speak.

I haven't camped yet, but temps have not been much below 10C at night.

Sorry I only know metric these days!

 

[long trails]

So apologies to all those eager to hear about camping. To be honest I have not spotted many camping opportunities thus far, and as I lie here on the creaky top bunk with snoring as a constant, I am still looking forward to climbing into my tent one night, with only my tinnitis for sound.

Bed situation is totally fine. The pressure is easing with every step from St Jean.

Day four...

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/back-to-nature-day-four/

 

[Susanwills]

Sounds good! Maybe I don't need my bivy sac??? What time did you arrive at the albergue today...Without a reservation, right?

 

[cher99840]

You are clipping right along. Glad to hear that your feet are your friends. I am really enjoying your writing.

 

[long trails]

Sounds good! Maybe I don't need my bivy sac??? What time did you arrive at the albergue today...Without a reservation, right?

I arrived at 2.30, people were still arriving at 6.00.

I spotted campers for the first time, just outside Puente! Will write more later, very hot now and still 8km to Estella.

 

[long trails]

Arrived in Estella today, no bed pressure whatsoever. Any urgency from pilgrims to get their next beds is a distant memory.

I saw two girls camping today, they were just outside Puente la Reina, for me a little too close to a built up area. Anyway they were camped discreetly on a patch of ground with a fountain nearby. I'd say they'd been camping every night.

So here is day five, been a hot one, but loved every minute. In a big albergue that's also a youth hostel. In a huge room with only 7 others, so can't complain!

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/through-olive-groves-and-vineyards-day-five/

 

[cher99840]

I have heard that Compeed should not be put on blisters, only hot spots. I can't back this up tho because the directions on my Compeed are in Spanish and French.

 

[long trails]

I think it's a hot spot but it can't be far from being a blister. Whatever it is, the soreness developed very quickly. Have put a compeed on, and guess I'll have to see how it goes.

 

[cher99840]

I think it's a hot spot but it can't be far from being a blister. Whatever it is, the soreness developed very quickly. Have put a compeed on, and guess I'll have to see how it goes.

Hopefully it will be fine. You are doing so well. It took me seven days to get to Estella. That stretch up to Lorca in the heat about did me in.

 

[Rambler1959]

Early this morning (it's still morning here in SoCal) my wife suggested that I find a camino blogger to follow since I wouldn't be able to walk a camino this year (again). Five minutes later I found this thread and your blog. That's what I call manifesting!

After reading your intro posts, I knew I found the right guy. Three years ago when I was "between jobs," my wife encouraged me to walk another section of the CF. We had walked from SJPdP to Pamplona on our "Pilgrimage Sampler" trip the year before. We were already going to be in Bali for our annual charity work, so I cancelled my return flight to LA and booked a one-way to Madrid on Qatar Airways. You can check out my adventures at www.rambler1959.com.

I'd love to hear more about your experiences in Bali and Viet Nam. In the meantime, Buon Camino!

 

[long trails]

Thank you. I hope to have some video of my first week up on youtube soon.

What work were you doing in Bali? I will check out your site for sure.

Just an update on where I am staying, the Albergue Oncienda in Estella. Despite being in the book, I don't think it's really geared to pilgrims.

Lots of sports teams staying here and kids running around. In my dormitory there are just 7 others, all pilgrims, but sadly none of them speak English (or I speak French/Italian!).

I think for one night it's fine, and makes a change from a busy pilgrim alburge.

First heavy rain of my 5 days too, that came after a beautiful sunny day.

 

[long trails]

Hopefully it will be fine. You are doing so well. It took me seven days to get to Estella. That stretch up to Lorca in the heat about did me in.

Yea I know what you mean, the stretch to Lorca.

I am likely to slow down soon, the 29/30 km days look too much to be any fun, and I am luckily not on a strict time limit, so won't push myself.

 

[DanielH]

Day 5 is about when I started getting blisters too. Not a big problem, I just popped them and kept going. I'm enjoying your posts.
daniel

 

[Rambler1959]

What work were you doing in Bali? I will check out your site for sure.

Our work in Bali provides tuition support and school supplies to students in the Munduk region away from the major tourist areas. We raise money to sponsor over 50 K-12 students and support 6 village kindergartens with classroom supplies and teacher training. After six years in operation, our first sponsored student graduated from high school this year. You can learn more at www.hmsproject.org.

 

[long trails]

Sounds a very good cause in Bali, I never stayed in Munduk, but plan to on my next trip.

Ok day six, so walked past the first official campsite just outside Estella although it was more of a family holiday park, so I'd not stay there.

However, beyond this campsite and into the forested area between Estalla and Villamajor, there are a lot of potential places to camp. I could see the markings where tents had been.

Los Arcos was virtually full by 2pm, I got one of the last beds in a private one, municipal was full before 1pm.

Here is my blog today..

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/community-on-the-move-day-six/

 

[long trails]

Day seven. Can't believe it's been one week already.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/hola-la-rioja-day-seven/

 

[Rambler1959]

By the way. I carrying a Talon 33 on my Camino. Your 44 should be just fine with your additional gear.

 

[long trails]

So I was keen to camp tonight, but alas there was no where suitable between Azofra and Belorado.

Took me a while to find a bed in Belorado, but all good now. Feet in pain after another long day.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/pushing-my-limits-day-nine/

 

[domigee]

Love your blog! Ultreia!

 

[long trails]

Half way through the days. Seems to be a lot of pilgrims on their way to St Juan today! It's like being back on France. I didnt leave until 8.30 also!

 

[long trails]

Here is day 10

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/one-day-from-burgos-day-ten/

 

[DanielH]

Here is day 10

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/one-day-from-burgos-day-ten/

Am enjoying reading your posts. I can't say that I really enjoyed the walk going into Burgos and especially the walking through the commcial and industrial areas. Somehow I missed the opportunity to walk the route along the river. Once I got to the historic area of the city, the architecture and art were incredible, especially the catherdral. Buen Camino!

 

[long trails]

I agree re Burgos, horrible walk and didnt feel safe, even in the day, should have done river walk, but leg was hurting so wanted most direct route.

No further signs of bed shortages.

CAMPING INFO

Seen more and more people camping. Chatting to a couple of them, we are certainly like-minded souls. There is almost a sub-culture on the fringes of the camino community, who are camping.

I hope to camp soon. I am finding the albergues a little tiresome, night after night, particularly if you are not part of a group. I was part of one, but they were walking far too slow for me and under 20km per day. Others in the group, who were not dictating the pace, said they were frustrated with the short days, but seemed afraid to walk on and leave the group behind.

It sometimes feels a little like a popularity contest too. As they say, walk your own camino!

Here is day 11..

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/aches-pains-and-holidays-day-eleven/

 

[ascensions]

That's interesting about the bunks and age. I've never really thought of it. Last time I walked was the end of October so I got any bed I wanted. Curious what will happen this time? Hmmmm....

 

[long trails]

That was just what one other pilgrim said to me re bunks. I guess makes sense to give older people lower ones, but if you can walk 500 miles then I guess we are all in the same boat, so to speak.

Didnt update yday as had no signal, but just wrote two blog posts.

Finally camped! Back in an albergue tonight, but was really nice to be outdoors and to be able to lie in beyond 7.30! No snoring too, only me probably.

Day 12 and 13 here..

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/

 

[long trails]

Camped last night just outside fromista at a new albergue called La Finca. Only €3.

After I put up tent I walked inside and was blown away. Almost seperate rooms like bunks! Brand new everything. Only €10. Had I seen before putting up tent, I'd have stayed inside. 6 of us camping, more pilgrims than you think camping...

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/always-been-on-the-right-path-day-fourteen/

 

[DanielH]

Camped last night just outside fromista at a new albergue called La Finca. Only €3.

After I put up tent I walked inside and was blown away. Almost seperate rooms like bunks! Brand new everything. Only €10. Had I seen before putting up tent, I'd have stayed inside. 6 of us camping, more pilgrims than you think camping...

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/always-been-on-the-right-path-day-fourteen/

I'm glad that you are getting some opportunities to camp. Enjoyed your post regarding Fromista and conquering the past Camino experience with it. It does indeed sound like you are in a great place and spirit. Buen Camino! and journey on.

 

[long trails]

Some people have camper every night, incl. St Jean. Not sure how they find the places.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/along-the-pilgrim-highway-day-fifteen/

 

[Rambler1959]

LT: just checking in to say hello. I caught up on your last few days of posts and I'm glad to hear your shin splints went away after Burgos. That's where my walking Camino ended in 2013 due to shin splints. Luckily my wife and I were able to rent bicycles and continued on to Leon where we were planning to end anyway. I can heartily recommend using bicycles on the Meseta! Especially with a tail wind.

 

[long trails]

Hello from Leon. Yes I went to Burger King. Sick of Spanish food! I am not even ashamed that I ate American fast food crap.
http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/saved-by-the-lion-day-nineteen/
http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/saved-by-the-lion-day-nineteen/

 

[long trails]

Day 22!

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/every-breath-you-take-day-twenty-two/

 

[DanielH]

I'll be sure to avoid Foncabaden and the Tio Salamance character from Breaking Bad. LOL. I think I would have repacked and kept going. Really enjoying your blog and reading about your adventures. Buen Camino!

 

[long trails]

Regarding camping. I think I'd advise anyone wanting to camp to avoid June. Main reason being is that it doesn't get dark until so late, around 10.30!

This means you cannot really wild camp unless you want to hang around a bar all night. The commercial campsites are a rip off for Pilgrims. Why pay €10 plus when an alburgue is often half.

Its a shame with the camping. I still prefer my own space and have grown very tired of the alburgue, with their unhygienic occupants, noisy bunk beds and lack of space in some cases.

The hygiene comment may seem harsh, most people of course shower, but some don't, and you only need one bad egg to stink out a small dorm.

Day 26 (I am enjoying it, but reading vlogs and books about satisfied travel is as boring as the pilgrims you meet who tell you their life story three times)

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/things-that-go-squeak-in-the-night-day-twenty-six/

 

[long trails]

So I had a day off in Sarria but have finally uploaded my first video...

Excuse the poor quality and editing. This was all done on a mobile phone.

 

[ACL]

Great weight with the camping gear! Atleast you won't be running around like a headless flying worrying about getting a place to stay. I camped throughout the Camino Frances, and everyday on the Camino portugese. Nothing better than sleeping in that wonderfully fresh air without snoring and noisy pilgrims.

 

[long trails]

Yep don't regret carrying the camping gear, just wish it got dark before 10.30! Would have camped out tonight but ended up in an albergue in Portomarin with a million noisy Spanish teenagers!

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/losing-my-religion-day-thirty/

 

[long trails]

Latest. Two days to go. Tongue in cheek as always.

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/dont-cry-for-me-santiago-day-thirty-three/

 

[long trails]

I am sitting in sunny Porto now, half tempted to walk back to Santiago! Next year perhaps.

My last post from the Camino Frances...

http://longtrails.org/caminofrances/all-good-things-day-thirty-four/

 

[ascensions]

Loved your blog, followed it everyday though I wish you had enabled comments. Congratulations!

 

[long trails]

Yea I understand re.comments. I did enable them about a week ago via diquis, but if you have an adclocker you might not see.them.