Looking for opinions

[tamsenita]

I walked from SJP in May/June in 2009, and it was one of the most special, sacred experiences of my life. I've wanted to do the pilgrimage again with my husband, and we finally started planning to make it happen, but it seems from the forums that the experience may have changed a lot in the past few years. I'm wondering, from pilgrims who had walked previous to 2010, but have/are walking again now or recently: how do the experiences compare? Are the trails too crowded to find spaces of solitude? Are you finding that the need to "book ahead" detracts from the spontaneous nature of the way? I'm not interested so much in the bed space question as the actual feeling of the walk out on the trail itself.... Any insights are extremely welcome. Thank you, travelers!

 

[Bradypus]

I walked the Camino Frances in summer 1990. On many days I saw no other pilgrims at all. I walked again in 2002 and saw a huge change - many more people walking and a far larger and more sophisticated infrastructure to support them. Last year I walked the short stretch from Melide to Santiago in late spring when finishing the Camino Primitivo. The landscape was obviously much the same but the walking experience was very different. There was little opportunity for solitude: I rarely walked for more than 10 minutes without encountering other people. Bars and cafes were busy. The streets of Melide and Arzua were dotted with rucksacks. I think that it is a mistake to compare now with back then. I am as prone to nostalgia as the next man. My initial reaction on arriving in Melide was that I had found one of the circles of hell that was cut out in Dante's last edit. But there is no going back. Those who walk the Camino today have a different experience. Not necessarily a poorer one.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

I have nothing to compare it with in terms of different years, but when I walked from SJPDP to SdC in April-early May last year, I was able to be alone, with no-one in sight in front or behind, for very many kilometres. I started the Camino just before Holy Week, so at Puenta La Reina and Los Arcos, there were very many people. The Meseta offered lots of opportunity for solitude, especially if rising with the sun. I agree with Bradypus that the nearer one gets to SdC, the busier it becomes, but you can hold back and let the crowds pass or simply enjoy their company. Of course it will be a different experience compared to your pilgrimage in 2009, because you will be walking with your husband this time, rather than by yourself, but I am sure that what was special to you about the Camino then will still be waiting to greet you this time. Buen Camino tamsenita!

 

[gerardcarey]

It would appear the Camino Frances is the only one causing you concern. That being the case there are plenty of wonderful alternatives.
Wishing you special travelling again.
Regards
Gerard

 

[dougfitz]

I walked in 2010, starting with a friend and finishing by myself. This year I am walking with my wife and we will finish together although we have had a few days apart. The external changes are significant. Much more infrastructure for pilgrims, many more pilgrims using pack transport and bookings services, etc. There are also a few more people with their hand out that made me wonder why people would donate to something as superficial as what they were offering.

But I also found that generosity of spirit and camaraderie which was so much part of my first Camino was still there. I never expected this Camino to be the same as my previous pilgrimages, and it isn't. Nonetheless, it has been a wonderful and as powerful experience, and I hope it continues for the few days that remain before we reach Santiago.

As a postscript, my wife is not a regular walker, is interested in different things and will stop and look as we walk. I have seen so much more than I did in 2010.

 

[grayland]

I first walked the Camino Frances in 2009 and again in 2010, 2011 and in January of 2016.
The differences in the experiences were not great in the first three years.
This year in January (mid Winter) the commercial aspects and attitudes of both Pilgrims and locals was depressing.
There are albergues (mostly closed in Jan) everywhere with signs and advertising on everything. Towns that we walked through before with nothing but maybe a small store or bar now had huge albergue signs on all previously empty buildings.
Pack transport advertising posted on trees, buildings and walls. The new industry that has popped up around the pack transport is very aggressive and the new attitude seems to be that it is normal to just carry a daypack with a sandwich and bottle of water.
There were easily as many pilgrims walking in mid January as we had seen in 2009.


Just my observations...but I am sorry I went back for a last walk. It was a real let down...even with the blizzard and hurricane winds to liven it up.
I would suggest that the Norte or LePuy route still have the mystic of the old ways.

I will continue to walk the other routes and leave the Camino Frances to the crowds.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Walked the Frances in 2007 and then 2012 through '15 to then walk the first part of the Norte and then the Primitivo. And at the time I did not opt for the Norte or Primitivo due to density but beauty and the fact that I had always wanted to wlak the Norte, but back in the days distances were too great between albergues.

Last May I walked the Primitivo and HATED how I felt after reaching Melide and the hordes of tourists. I had to gather myself and dig into meditation practice not to get the new reality interfere with the wonderful days I had just experienced on the Primitivo.

There is no denying the Frances offers an unusual mix of beautiful landscpae, history, architecture, but the people!!!

I just walked the Portuguese from Porto, and thanfully with the Espiritual variante. Had it not been for the variante I would be a very pilgrim, but the again it's not about beauty but outting a foot in front of the other, although what brings you to tears is the beauty, and grace that comes with it. And the social as'ect, for non Germans, who make up a good 75% of those on that route these days, is dismal. But then again, you will be walking with hubby.

SO... you would not catch me on the CF between May and November due to the tourigrinos. I would recommend the Norte and Primitivo, although I want to see them untouched ... But if you like cafe con leche here and there Portuguese from Porto may be a good option.

Have not ealked the Norte, but the Santiago to Fiaterra and Muxia are gorgeous, if you are up for a shorter walk, or combining shorter walks.

 

[Felipe]

I first walked the Camino Frances in 2008, and did it again last year, in October. Yes, there are definitely much more people -the "high season" seems to be spreading quickly across the year. Between SJPP and Roncesvalles we were in a long line of walkers -more or less one every 50 meters. After that, a bit suprisingly, I could walk some days quite alone. I don't understand the logic, but it was like that.
The real crowding started after Sarriá, and especially the last days before Compostela; some times it was as walking in a city street. I just can't imagine how could be it in the "peak" months.
I would say that the problem is not the crowd by itself, but the "just a funny weekend" attitude after Sarriá, the rampant commercialism, the taxis and transporting vans crisscrossing the camino all the time, etc. I decided not to let the situation spoil my experience, and in the end it was a (mostly) good end of my pilgrimage. Would I do again these final stages? Probably not...or well, maybe only between November and Mars.
On the other side, if a person is of the outgoing, sociable type, s/he could find these stages great. It is an easy, "domesticated" walk, with lot of services and options. And the landscapes and villages are very picturesque. And maybe it is a "once in the lifetime" experience, it could be worth while anyway...just adopting a "zen" attitude.